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Post by FeralJasmine
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Since the recent death of someone I loved deeply, I find myself preoccupied with white florals. At first this might seem like an obvious extension of the traditional funeral flowers, but I think it goes far deeper than that. Of all the fragrances, white florals are simultaneously the most indolic-animalic and the most transcendent. They remind us that death coexists with astounding beauty. When we approach the country of death, they waft us to the threshold and then anchor us from stepping through. They are hypnotic, narcotic, both mesmerizing and comforting. The purest and the dirtiest of scents, they call out our inner angel and our inner demon.
Orange blossom is perhaps the most dualistic of the white florals, sweet-angelic or earthy-animal or both. Orange blossom is my obsession right now. For days after the memorial service I floated around in Houbigant Orangers et Fleurs, feeling unanchored. The morning that I realized that I was returning to Earth, I sprayed myself with…….
Gucci by Gucci EDP 2007
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
The Gucci that I refer to here is the original Gucci by Gucci EDP in the heavy square brown bottle with gold cap. This is worth stressing, since there is a lot of other Gucci stuff that I can’t stand and wouldn’t want anyone to think that I was wearing. The most frugal perfumista can afford it, since you can find big 2.5 oz bottles for under $50, and minis or decants for a lot less. There is some astounding twaddle about it online, much of which I think may really be about some other Gucci scent. On Fragrantica the notes are given as guava, Haitian tiare flower, patchouli, honey, and musk, which leads me to wonder if some people know orange blossom when they smell it. Patty of the Perfume Posse featured it in her guide to the best of orange blossom fragrances, and of course she got the notes right:
Orange blossom, heliotrope, orris, vanilla, citrus, musk, cumin, and thyme.
In fact, her opinion is so apt that it’s worth quoting:
“ I think Gucci EDP is one of the sexiest perfumes made. It’s skanky, but not vulgarly trashy. It handles orange blossom in such naughty, naughty ways, it takes my breath away. Gucci tore a piece page from the Caron Narcisse Noir Playbook when they abandoned any pretense of orange blossom being innocent.”
Photo Stolen KousKousRestaurant
On my scent-eating skin and in our parched desert climate, the effect is subtler. Gucci EDP goes on in a happy haze of lovely and naughtily indolic orange blossom. The cumin is there from the beginning, but it is low-key and serves to emphasize the orange blossom and not overpower it. As the open fades, a very subtle hint of thyme combines with the soft musk and cumin to suggest a lovely soft earthy leather. Orange blossoms and soft leathery musk; what a combination! If the Houbigant is celestial orange blossom, this is mortal orange blossom, never far from its very earthbound roots. If I apply it lightly before leaving the house, I can wear it to work and my perfume-averse work buddy will sniff appreciatively rather than wrinkling her nose. If I spray more lavishly, the effect is more “Why, hello there!” and is no longer suitable for work, although lots of fun.
Further reading: Now Smell This and Perfume Posse
Fragrance Shop has $41/50ml tester
My Perfume Samples starts at $2.50/ml up to $7.50/5ml
Photo Stolen FloristExpress
Life is full of events that carry us to places we never wanted to be, and thank goodness for all the things that help us stay grounded, like love, friendship, beauty, truth, memory, as well as good food, wine and perfume.
FeralJasmine XX
Beautifully reviewed and welcome to the APJ blog crew. You’re gonna fit in just fine 🙂
– Margeaux
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Margaux, thanks! Look forward to working further with all of you.
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YAY! FeralJasmine is now part of the APJ crew. Excellent job and we hope to be reading MUCH MORE of your work in the future.
Welcome to the family.
Portia xx
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Portia, thank you so much for reaching out to me and giving me the chance to try this. I had no idea how interesting it would be, and how it would make me look at perfumes in a whole new way. I remember some drama critic or other writing “The critic is not a member of the audience. The critic says ‘This is a very bad play. Why is that?’ The audience member says’This is a very bad play. Why was I born?’ There is a difference.”
Not that any perfume ever made me question why I was born, but some came close.
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Dearest Feral
A serene and elegiac entrance.
How right you are about orange blossom… agony and ecstasy, sex and death, it’s all in there.
I have a similar thing with narcissus and there funeral earth quality.
Yours ever
The Perfumed Dandy
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Ah, Dandy, it’s good to hear from you. It’s all about agony, ecstasy, sex, and death, isn’t it?
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Oh yes, Feral, what else is there?!?
Yours ever
The Perfumed Dandy
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By the way, dear Dandy, are there any orange blossoms that you cherish? If not, tell us about your narcissus favorites. All the sex-and-death florals are interesting, as is your personal perspective on them.
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Dearest Feral
There are so many… L’Artisan’s and Le Labo’s Fleurs… but at the moment Arquiste’s Infanta y Flor is occupying my mind!
Yours ever
The Perfumed Dandy
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Beautiful! You writing is wonderful, full of emotion, sentiment and good information.
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Thanks so much! I hope that good discussions start in the comments, because that’s the most interesting part of a post. What orange blossoms do you love, or do you love any?
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Hello FeralJasmine,
I DO love orange blossoms. I’ve been trying a lot of Indies lately and Lisa Fong’s “Drifting Sparks” wears on my skin like an orange grove on fire!!! I also love Ellen Covey’s “Golden Cattleya” and Gabriel Abraham’s “V. Van Gogh – 1889”, even though both of these have more elements of the orange/citrus fruit than the orange flower.
Azar (aka Latiaxis)
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Azar, thanks for joining us. I don’t know the Drifting Sparks at all. Will have to try it. I’m familiar with the Golden Cattleya and do enjoy a spray of it here and there, although you’re right, it leans toward the fruit. I’m always on the lookout for new orange blossoms, so thanks for your input!
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Wonderful review, FeralJasmine, I love your writing style. Personal and informative at the same time.
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Thank you so much. That’s the balance I’m trying to walk, and it’s a tough one in some ways. Thanks for reading my efforts!
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Hey FeralJasmine this is from Anita (Musette on Perfume Posse) because she is having trouble posting it:
FJ, My sincere condolences on your loss which you convey simply and beautifully in this post. And…what a LOVELY post. I never gave any Gucci much shrift, save Envy (which was such a mean green! LUBBED it!)…but between your and Patty’s evocative descriptions, I think I’m going to have to revisit this one.
Welcome to APJ! They are a Ba-LAST over here!!! xoxoxoA
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Hi Musette, thanks so much for stopping by! Thanks for your condolences, and I’m so grateful to have this alternate perfume universe to play in. Best to all the Posse crew.
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Oh, and Musette, do you have any beloved orange blossom stashed away?
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FJ!!
Moving review. I might actually get of my pedestal and hunt for it! Very beautifully written. You like cookies? Welcome.
Hugs
CQ xxxxxxx
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Hey, thanks so much! I’m interested in bargains, and I’m not claiming that they will match up to your rarest niche or vintage, but they are a solid part of the field that we have to choose from. But do tell: what orange blossoms smell best to you?
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Rubj Extrait. SL Fleur de Orange.
Not too experienced otherwise.
Totally not interested in vintage.
Anyway, it’s not a competition!!!
Although sometimes one wonders.
Bussis. xxx
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Oh, and can’t eat cookies, but that doesn’t mean that I don’t love them. I can still love them with my eyes
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I love the SL too, and one day soon will remember to order a sample of Rubj. I hear it’s a beauty.
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I love Vero’s perfumes. Nothing else comes close at the moment. Will happily send you a couple of mls of Rubj to try ………. xxx
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What a very kind offer. I would love to take you up on it, and will (gladly!) if you’re in the US, but if you’re in Oz I won’t, because I hear it’s illegal as all-get-out. My email is wooddogs3 awt gmail dawtcawm.
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Yay! Great review, FeralJasmine! I’ve been floating in a cloud of orange blossom for two days now. I’ve been wearing Seville a l’Aube, the L’Artisan. I want a bottle of Rubj but ugh, the price… I do have a birthday coming up so maybe if I’ve been a really good girl…
Anyway, I’m so happy to see you writing here. I’m also sorry for your loss that inspired the post.
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Poodle, thanks for your condolences, and thanks for joining the party! Have a happy birthday, and I feel sure that you’ve been very, very good and should get the Rubj. In fact, maybe you should go ahead and order it now, because after all, how can others in your life know how sterling-squeaky-good you’ve been inside? It is doing them a favor to take care of this matter for them.
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