Sirocco by Jean Carles for Lucien Lelong 1934


Post by Azar


Sirocco was created for the fashion house of Lucien Lelong in 1934 by the master perfumer and teacher Jean Carles (1892-1966). Carles was responsible for the creation of a number of other Lelong fragrances as well as for Tabu, Miss Dior, Ma Griffe and many other classic scents. He was also the driving force behind the development of the Givaudan Perfumery School.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica
The House of Lelong was extremely influential in Paris in the 1920s and 30s.  Several famous designers began their careers with Lelong including Christian Dior, Pierre Balmain and Huber de Givenchy.  Lelong’s sense of style and fragrance have had a lasting influence on fashion to this day.

Sirocco by Jean Carles for Lucien Lelong 1934

Sirocco Lucien Lelong FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Coriander, sandalwood, musk, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, rose

The sirocco is a fierce, hot wind from the desert reaching speeds of up to 55 knots (about100k/h).  The vintage version of Lucien Lelong’s Sirocco is aptly named.  This fragrance, even in its EDC concentration, is a pungent oriental with top notes that include a triple dose of coriander tempered by lavender and magnolia.  The startling opening develops quickly into a robust heart of rose, jasmine, amber and patchouli, drying down to opopponax, sandalwood, benzoin and musk.  If you haven’t tried this fragrance or can’t imagine it, just think of Shalimar with an overdose of coriander or Emeraude on incense.

Sirocco Lucien Lelong  FlickrPhoto Stolen Frank Kovalchek Flickr (Ed: The Wave in Arizone looks like the word Sirocco sounds to me)

My love for Lucien Lelong’s Sirocco began when I spilled it on my mother’s dressing table. It took several months for the air to clear. Since then I have always managed to keep a vintage stash on hand (the reformulated versions don’t interest me). In 50 years or so I’ve gone through at least three 7ml curly bottles of the perfume extrait as well as numerous hobnailed colognes. Right now I have about 16 ounces (480ml more or less) of vintage EDC on hand so I can easily spare two 2ml decants for a draw.

Further reading: Perfume Smellin’ Things and The Non-Blond
Ebay and Etsy have Lucien Lelong vintage bottles for reasonable prices still

Giveaway Kesha&CoPhoto Stolen Kesha&Co

Sirocco by Lucien Lelong GIVEAWAY


This week there will be two winners, who will receive

1 x 2ml decant of vintage Sirocco by Jean Carles for Lucien Lelong 1934
P&H Anywhere in the world


Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

To be eligible leave a comment on Jean Carles or a vintage perfume/fashion creation that you love and also mention how you follow the APJs (by e-mail, WordPress, whatever).

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie Sirocco Lucien Lelong GIVEAWAY #Perfume #Giveaway


Entries Close Thursday 12th Decemberber 2013 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by
The winners will have till Sunday 15th Deceber 2013 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Azar xxx

74 comments on “Sirocco by Jean Carles for Lucien Lelong 1934

  1. Jordan River says:

    Great name. I love a perfumed wind Azar but my favorite in the wind genre is the dry dry wind of Chergui, the desert wind.
    Jordan River recently posted…Mahatma MandelaMy Profile

    • Azar says:

      Hi Jordan,
      I am so involved with vintage that I haven’t tried the newer wind inspired fragrances like Chergui or Phaedon Dzhari. Can you describe what makes Chergui so dry?
      Azar xx

  2. Jaybee says:

    I love vintage evening gowns from the 40s and 50s, especially the type you see in movies from/of that era. Like those worn by Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, and Ava Gardner. They are so devastatingly chic and gorgeous, and you can imagine the perfumes that women wore with them were just as lovely. Oh, and I follow by email! 🙂

    • Azar says:

      Great comment, Jaybee!
      Those vintages gowns gave an impression of sculptural elegance that does not seem to be happening today. Lelong did his most interesting work in fashion from the 1920’s through the 1940’s and was probably responsible for some of those great gowns you mention. His most important contribution is often considered to be his “kinetic” style of the 20’s and 30’s. It is interesting to me that the Lelong perfume business lasted long after the couture house was closed. Yes! You are in!
      Azar xx

  3. Maya says:

    I didn’t know Jean Carles created perfumes for Lucien Lelong. I love his Tabu!I have a small bottle of Lelong’s Tailspin which I am fond of and have wanted to try others. Love the name Sirocco – a devil’s wind. Follow by email.

    • Azar says:

      Hi Maya,
      You are IN! The more I learn about Jean Carles the the more I admire him. I am now a Tabu convert! I didn’t like this fragrance much when I was younger and was motivated to try it again by comments here on APJ. I found a vintage pure perfume in great shape and love it. Thanks for commenting and entering the draw!
      Azar xx

      • australianperfumejunkies says:

        Hi there Azar, found a large old screw top bottle of Tabu at the markets on Sunday. The lady seller had it in full Australian summer sun and when I opened the lid it had obviously fermented and turned. I will continue my hunt.
        Portia xx

      • Azar says:

        The hunt is at least half the fun!

  4. Carolyn says:

    My mom was not much of a fragrance person but I remember sneaking sniffs from her little bottle of Arpege many years ago. She still has that same little bottle on her dresser. I follow via wordpress reader or via emails.

    • Azar says:

      Hello Carolyn,

      Wow! She still has the same bottle? I went through the contents of several bottles of my favorite perfumes before I had he sense to save the bottles themselves. You are IN!

      Zzar xx

      • Carolyn says:

        Yes, same bottle all these years. At least the last time I remember poking through her room a few years back. I’m bettin’ when I go visit them next year it will still be there! She does not use fragrance very much at all. I think what she’s probably used most are the Lily of the Valley soaps and related I’ve picked up from Crabtree and Evelyn and even then not as much as *I* think is necesary 😀

      • Carolyn says:

        Totally forgot about tweets. Added one of those too 😉

      • Azar says:

        You are now in TWICE, Carolyn! I’m glad you remembered.
        Azar xx

  5. Devon Hernandez says:

    Some of my favorite vintage scents include Tabu and Lelong’s Indiscrete. 🙂 thank you for the giveaway! I follow by email. Also tweeting the giveaway. (@DevonTheFoodie)

    • Azar says:

      Mine too, Devon! These fragrances are not for the “shrinking violet”. You are IN and thank you for joining the draw!
      Azar xx

  6. Patty Pong says:

    I follow by e-mail. I love vintage Jicky….a lot 🙂

  7. Annamaria says:

    I have been curious for a while about smelling Ma Griffe – love that oakmoss is apparently quite strong in this scent. I follow by bloglovin.

    • Azar says:

      Hi Annamaria,

      Ma Griffe is also on my smell “to smell” list. Are there any other Carven fragrances that interested you? You are so IN!

      Azar xx

  8. australianperfumejunkies says:

    Hey there lovely Azar,
    Great piece and super lovely giveaway. DNEM! I have a little tester of Sirocco, the miniature version of the original bottle. I love it.
    Portia xx

    • Azar says:

      Hello Portia and thank you so much!

      Is your mini the curly perfume or the long necked, hobnailed cologne? I think Lelong designed some of these bottles too.

      Azar xx

  9. Leathermountain says:

    I love vintage Joy! I follow by email and will tweet now.

    • Azar says:

      You are in TWICE, Leathermountain! I think that Joy is another perfume I need to revisit.
      How different is the modern version from the vintage?
      Azar xx

  10. Donelle Talintyre says:

    I have yet to explore much in the way of vintage perfumes, managed to purchase a bottle of Samsara extract pre recent formulation so I hope that counts. I do love Shalimar though, saving it up for a rainy day next winter. The fact that so many perfumes released only a few years ago are having to be re-formulated to conform to IFRA regulations, means that the definition of vintage will face considerable expansion methinks. Thanks for the generous draw! 🙂

    • Azar says:

      Hi Donelle,

      How do you follow (E-mail, WordPress, bloglovin, whatever…)?

      And yes, the definition of vintage in regard to perfume is becoming increasingly problematic! Trying to preserve the ephemeral and the evanescent also brings to mind the topics of perfume museums, the preservation of formulas and how to determine authenticity. Lots of material here for someone to write about!

      Azar xx

  11. Esperanza says:

    Lovely review. Would love to try it. Thanks for your generous draw.

  12. puhfume says:

    Unfortunately I don’t think I’ve tried Jean Carles’ perfumes in their original formulations. I’ve tried the modern Ma Griffe and was not very impressed. Given his reputation, I’m really looking forward to try one of his works in its original glory.

    I follow by email. Thanks for the giveaway!

    • Azar says:

      Hi puhfume!

      As I mentioned in the post, the reformulated versions don’t interest me and I have yet to find a vintage version of Ma Griffe that I think is really vintage. Unlike the newer models, the original versions of Carles creations are often very powerful, statement pieces with longevity, depth and balance that are hard to forget. You are IN!

      Azar xx

  13. Sally M says:

    “Emeraude on incense”!!! Love it 🙂 I have several (empty) large hobnail Lelong bottles in my collection, simply because I love the way they look. I’m a bit of a vintage ho’ and so would be hard pressed to choose a favorite – Shalimar, Tabu, Youth Dew, Vol de Nuit, Nuit de Noel (and on and on…). Thank you for this wonderful draw – I’d love to try this hot little number. I follow by email.

    • Azar says:

      Thank you for joining the draw, Sally M!

      Warning! Sirocco really packs an upfront punch! Also, try not to catch the vintage perfume bottle bug (but it sounds like it might be too late for you). Lelong’s bottles are great, especially the pure perfumes. I only have the curly Sirocco perfume bottles. The others are really hard to find and very expensive even when empty!

      Azar xx

  14. Tatiana says:

    I have come to liking Lucien Lelong “N”. Do you know if it was also created by Jean Carles? I also love vintage Shalimar. I follow by email.

    • Azar says:

      Hi Tatiana,

      I don’t know who created “N” but I do know it was named after Lelong’s couture model and second wife Nathalie Paley, a granddaughter of Alexander II. That is another long story!

      You are so IN! Thank you for joining the draw!

      Azar xx

  15. Elise says:

    Ma Griffe Carven who Jean Carles also collaborated with is on my absolute number one wishlist! I follow by email (wordpress) also facebook and twitter xx

    • Elise says:

      even ‘Miss Dior’ by Christian Dior is one perfume I am in absolute love with!

    • Azar says:

      Thanks for joining this draw, Elise!

      I think I love or at least like very much all of the Carles creations I have tried so far. I am still searching for a good vintage Ma Griffe.

      Azar xx

      • Elise says:

        its such a beautiful fresh, green chypre!!!It is full of aldehydes, green notes and the oakmoss and vetiver gives it this dry, earthy, old skool quality.

        I can imagine Grace Kelly wearing it and being a spokesperson or ambassador for it. Absolutely LOVE anything that depicts that time period for its class.

  16. Undina says:

    Azar, your review sounds so convincing that I almost want to try this perfume. “Almost” because I do not like vintage perfumes but I’m glad that you had been able to find the one you like in a good quality (DNEM).
    Undina recently posted…Entertaining Statistics: November, 2013My Profile

    • Azar says:

      Hi Undina,

      I understand where you are coming from. It takes a lot of persuasion, free samples and/or some absolutely stunning product or relentless marketing for me to purchase a full bottle of anything new. I don’t know how anyone can keep up with all the new fragrances that are introduced into the market every year, let alone try out the discontinued and the vintage. More statistics?

      Azar xx

  17. Katherine says:

    I follow via newsletter and face book.. My vintage all time favourites .. is Michelle by Balenciaga .. and Isadora by Isadora .. both produced in the 70s . It was my first ever scent ( Michelle ) and i would alway pop into the department store to smell it – I was only 9 years old ! I still have a full bottle on my mantle .

    • Azar says:

      Hello Katherine,

      You are so IN! I think I love all the Ballenciagas! I have not tried Isadora but now will have to find some. One of the reasons I like vintage scents is because good ones are often very hard to find. It is almost like a treasure hunt just to locate an old bottle, let alone a fragrance that is still is good shape.

      Azar xx

  18. maysamassimo says:

    Hi! I follow via e-mail. I love Jean Carle’s vintage Shocking by Schiaparelli. Thanks for the draw!

    • Azar says:

      Yes, maysamassimo! Shocking is another John Carles beauty (and hard to find too). Thank YOU for joining the draw! You are IN!

      Azar xx

  19. Nemo says:

    I have not tried any vintage formulations of any perfumes, but my favorite part about them is the bottles 🙂 I think maybe a small part of me is worried about trying the vintage, loving it, and then not being able to get more? Or not being able to love the reformulation as much anymore… I am sure I will get past that hurdle at some point, though 🙂 Thank you for the giveaway.

    • Azar says:

      Hi Nemo,

      Loving vintage perfumes has brought out the “hoarder” in me. I just don’t want to run out so sometimes I really overdo it. Not such a good thing, I suppose, but I do often have extras to give away!

      Azar xx

  20. hotlanta linda says:

    I too miss Michelle from Balenciaga ( make that the entire line,add Givenchy-) I`ve 3 pieces I open to whiff and re-cap/stopper so I always have some around! following on FB, blog, and e-mail

    • Azar says:

      Hi Hotlanta!

      I love all the old Balenciaga, especially Le Dix and Quadrille. And you are right, sometimes all that is needed is a whiff. You are so IN!

      Azar xx

  21. Damir says:

    Hi, I follow as usual: WordPress, RSS,mail, twitter, FB(+shares+RT)
    There are many great vintages . My special love goes to Diorissimo. Original version of Antaeus is also my (powerful)dream.

    • Azar says:

      Hello Damir,

      I am also a lover of Diorissimo. It defines spring flowers for me, especially lily of the valley. I have never tried Antaeus but will see if I can find some of the original. Thank you for the info and for entering the draw!

      Azar xx

  22. susan says:

    I follow on Bloglovin’! A vintage perfume I enjoy is My Sin. 🙂
    susan recently posted…M. Micallef Le Parfum Denis Durand CoutureMy Profile

  23. Jackie Rosen says:

    Hi Azar!
    Thank you for this fabulous giveaway. Very generous! The late teens-early 20’s is a favorite era. I love vintage Mitsouko and in recent years have been enjoying Tabac Blond. Tweeted, as requested. I follow via email.
    Cheers from the States,

    • Azar says:

      Hey Jackie!

      Your are in TWICE! This fragrance era is also a favorite of mine. I can’t help but think that the late teens and early 20’s saw the creation of some of the greatest fragrances, often copied but rarely equalled!

      Azar xx

  24. Mary K says:

    I have one of those tiny bottles of Patou Normandie. Not sure if it’s vintage, but it does smell great!

  25. Mary K says:

    Forgot to mention that I follow via
    RSS (Feedly).

  26. ElizabethC says:

    I love the vintage Patous! Recently bought some department store Tabu perfume and lotion (only a couple of bucks – who could resist). Potent!!! I follow via e-mail

    • Azar says:

      Hi Elizabeth C!

      Regarding vintage Patous: I have some old Colony around here somewhere that I should pull out. I can’t remember what it smells like right now. Also, it is good to know that the drugstore Tabu is powerful stuff! I have wondered if the new is anything like the original. If it is that potent it probably hasn’t changed too much.
      Oh,and of course you are IN!

      Azar xx

  27. Kandice says:

    I haven’t had the chance to try many vintage fragrances. Most are beyond my price range. However, I just ordered a small sample of Caron’s Nuit de Noel and can’t wait to try it. Thanks for the lovely review and the opportunity to try another vintage gem. I follow via email.

    • Azar says:

      Hi Kandice!

      You picked the perfect time of year to try Nuit de Noel! Small samples are a great way to try vintage or anything else for that matter. Thank YOU for joining the draw.

      Azar xx

  28. poodle says:

    Falling for vintage stuff is such a heartbreak sometimes. Don’t enter me in the draw since I just won recently. I like vintage Femme, Nuit de Noel, and a few others. I don’t have many vintage bottles but I do keep hoping I’ll stumble on some at every antique shop I go to.

  29. Azar says:

    Hello Poodle,

    Yes, falling for vintage can be heartbreaking. I try to stock up on these things, but there is a limit, not only to my budget and storage space but also to the life of these old beauties. I just have to enjoy them while I can. By the way, you should get your little package from the last draw soon. Let me know if you recognize the mystery fragrance!

    Azar xx

  30. Lindaloo says:

    I follow the APJ clan by email. Favourite design era is Art Deco. As for vintage perfumes, I have little experience of scents prior to the 60’s, but I do remember with great pleasure Ma Griffe from the 70’s. Would love to sniff Sirocco (great name!)
    Thanks for the draw opportunity.

    • Azar says:

      Hello Lindaloo,

      Sirocco is really powerful stuff, even in the cologne version. If you are familiar with other Jean Carles fragrances you will certainly notice similarities.

      I love Art Deco too, especially the designs of the period perfume bottles.

      You are IN of course!

      Azar xx

  31. Lubka K. says:

    I follow via bloglovin
    I tweeted about here:

    My fav vintage is Mitsouko and I also own YSL s Champagne small bottle of pure perfume. Very pleasant. Soft. I ve discovered chypre floral fragrances only year ago.:-)

    • Azar says:

      You are in TWICE, Lubka K.!

      I love the original YSL Rive Gauche for women but for some reason never tried YSL Champagne. I will put it on my list. Sometimes I really need the soft and pleasant.

      Azar xx

  32. Ferris says:

    Jean Charles created the infamous Tabu? I didn’t know that. I need to get my hands on some vintage Tabu. I am a dire fan of Chanel No 5 vintage extrait. There is something so animal and ravaging about it. If there was a spring that spouted that scent I would bathe in it. Lol I follow APJ via email

    • Azar says:

      Hi Ferris!

      You are so IN!
      Jean Carles was born in 1892 and died in 1966. Perhaps you were thinking of Jean-Charles Brosseau of Ombre Rose (1981) fame?

      Azar xx

  33. Lauren says:

    Hi Mom –

    It’s pretty cold in NH – I could use a hot fierce wind right about now… maybe a little Sirocco would warm me up! I think my favorite vintage perfume is still Lauren. I read that the reformulated version is also not as good as the older version. Seems like that is the case with many perfumes!


    • Azar says:

      Hey there Lauren!

      Stay warm! Is it snowing? Who knows, a little Sirocco might waft your way for the holidays and a little Lauren too if I can find her.

      You are right about reformulations. Vintage scents, even though they have aged, are usually much more interesting. The newer versions of the Lelong fragrances just leave me cold (sorry).

      Mommy Azar xxx and x

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