Un Matin d’Orage by Isabelle Doyen for Annick Goutal 2009

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Post by SarahK

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Hello all!

Have you ever had one of those moments when a scent hits your nose and you’re stunned by its exquisite beauty? That was my reaction to my first sniff of Annick Goutal’s Un Matin d’Orage (EDT).

Un Matin d’Orage by Isabelle Doyen for Annick Goutal 2009

Un Matin d`Orage Annick Goutal  FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Sicilian lemon, ginger, green notes
Heart: Gardenia, shiso leaves, magnolia, champaca flowers, Indonesian jasmine
Base: Sandalwood

Un Matin d’Orage opens with the prettiness of a forest nymph in a Botticelli painting. She arrives carrying bridal white gardenias, but they aren’t heady and overwhelming. These flowers are fresh and slightly earthy, with a true-to-life mushroom note, and underneath her prettiness the nymph has a backbone of green wood, like the forest she came from. The heart of Un Matin d’Orage expands to become an entire gardenia-filled garden right after a rainstorm. Under the wafting scent of the flowers is a layer of greener and watery notes, like the stems of plants, broken under the weight of the rain. In summer, the effect is of a tropical rainstorm, or like walking into a hothouse, misty with water-spray, the scent of the flowers suspended in water droplets. In winter, the effect is a touch more bracing on me, like a rain-soaked garden in spring. The verdant floral notes soften over time, but are still there in the dry-down, which also reveals some green sandalwood.

Un Matin d`Orage Botticelli-primavera WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

My husband never makes comments on my perfume, good or bad, but whenever I wear this he snuggles up extra-close to me, so clearly something smells good, though I don’t think of this as a sexy scent at all. In summer I can get away with spraying liberally, but cold weather sometimes brings out a little bitterness in the green notes. It’s not an unpleasant effect to me – in fact I find it adds to the interest of the fragrance – but it does mean that I like to bring my spray count down in winter.

I love to put a single spray of this on my pillow at night for happy dreams. Once, I accidentally aimed a spritz at my mobile phone and for weeks afterwards the heavenly scent would waft up every time I used the phone, putting a big smile on my face.

Un Matin d`Orage Annick Goutal Storms Jason Hunter FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

In cold weather this fragrance can last an impressively long time on my skin. It’s often still detectable on my skin 10 hours in. I should note, though, that the same goes for Chanel’s 28 La Pausa, which is famously short-lived on others so it could just be my skin. In hotter weather, Un Matin d’Orage doesn’t seem to last half as long, but she’s lovely while she’s there.

Further reading:
Beauty Encounter has a $49/50ml EdT and 100ml Body Cream Gift Set
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/ml

What fragrances have brought you up short with their beauty?

SarahK

Annick Goutal (1948-99) on APJ previously.

Annick Goutal Biography,
Eau de Sud/Songes/Mandragore,
Eau d”Hadrien/Eau de Camille/Ce Soir Ou Jamais,
Passion/Un Matin d’Orage/Ambre Fetiche,
Mandragore Pourpe,
Songes,
Grand Amour,
Rose Splendide,

Nuit Etoilée and
Duel
Mon Parfum Cherie Par Camille

28 comments on “Un Matin d’Orage by Isabelle Doyen for Annick Goutal 2009

  1. Azar says:

    Thank you for this lovely Review, Sarah K! Over the years there are so many fragrances that have surprised me with their beauty. It is hard to single one out, but in the AG line I think that I love Grand Amour and Songes the best.
    Azar xx

  2. einsof says:

    wow. i have no idea what i will actually think of the perfume, but you write beautifully!

    • Sarah K says:

      You are very kind einsof, thank you. I have read that Un Matin d’Orage doesn’t work for everybody, but it sure works for me and is definitely worth seeing if it works for you too!

  3. puhfume says:

    I love this one. It’s so easy to wear. I love the way Goutal render the gardenia watery as opposed to heady and creamy.

    The one perfume that takes my breath away with its beauty is Chanel’s Bois des Iles. It still gives me a jolt every time I wear it. Perfection, IMHO.

    • Sarah K says:

      Hi puhfume – I agree, taking out some of the headiness makes this much easier to wear than some other big white flower ‘fumes. And Bois des Iles is a stunner, isn’t it? I’ve been wearing it a LOT this past northern hemisphere winter.

  4. shylotus says:

    Sarah thank you for expressing what I’ve always tried to about Un Matin d’Orage. I love that the gardenias aren’t too heady and heavy. The mixture of rain and soil, stem and leaf are so real. It will always be my “go back to England in May” scent.

    Lovely review!

    • Sarah K says:

      Thank you shylotus! I love that you associate this with England in May. England is where I’m from originally, and I usually try to time my visits back for May – my favourite time of year there.

  5. australianperfumejunkies says:

    Hey there SarahK,
    You are our first contributor from the continent proper of Asia, though I count Australia as part of Asia.
    Welcome on board and thank you for writing about one of my all time favourite Annick Goutals.
    Portia xx

  6. Maya says:

    I enjoyed your review. I have problems with watery notes and there are very few that work for me, but you make this perfume sound like it’s worth a try at the very least. Thanks.

    • Sarah K says:

      Thanks Maya! I’d say it’s definitely worth a shot if you like white flowers at all. Not everybody is a fan, but I think the green notes are more likely to offend that the watery ones in this scent. I’m not fond of ’90s style calone-heavy ozonic watery fragrances, but the water note here is not at all like that to me, and is definitely not the main player.

  7. Sister Mary says:

    Oh! Just a lovely review of such a pretty scent. I love an Orage, and Goutals has droplets shivering on stems, it’s so fresh and real.

    Chamade brings me up short with her beauty, a different. garden, sap rising and in full bloom.

    (And others too numerous to mention…!)

    • Sarah K says:

      I’ve only tried Chamade once, and I remember liking it, so I’m currently in the process of getting my hands on a decant. I’ve read that it’s similar to Le Temps d’une Fete and Grand Amour, both of which I love. Would you say they are fair comparisons?

      • Sister Mary says:

        I can certainly see why those comparisons would be made, there’s a richness in all of them (and the de Nicolai is even in the Guerlain “family” as she is related!)

        I am most drawn to Chamade, she’s so huge and orchestral yet pure and spare with such soaring florals. Grand Amour I find sweeter.

        But I look forward to hearing your thoughts when you receive your decant.

  8. Kandice says:

    This is such a pretty fragrance and one I wish worked better on me. While it smells lovely, it disappears almost immediately. Unless I want to spray it every hour, I can enjoy it briefly and then it’s gone. I don’t know why that happens with this particular scent. I don’t have the same issues with Gardenia Passion (which I love) and Songes. Thanks for the review. It helped me understand why I do like this scent so much 🙂

    • Sarah K says:

      I don’t know Gardenia Passion, but have been meaning to seek some out. How does the gardenia in it compare to the one in Un Matin d’Orage? Songes is a much heftier fragrance on my skin, with a heavier base which I guess might help it stick around longer. I think I must have perfume-hugging skin for Un Matin to be able to last so long on me 🙂

  9. poodle says:

    This is a lovely review. I only know a few scents from this line. The ones I’ve tried don’t last that long on me at all so I tend to overlook it when at the perfume counter. I may have to seek this out because I do love gardenia. I’m sure it won’t last but I would like to see how it smells.

    • Sarah K says:

      Thanks Poodle 🙂 It’s definitely worth a sniff, though it sounds like its longevity on my skin might not be a reliable guide for others! Most of the Goutals that I have tried last a good few hours on me.

  10. Mary K says:

    I really like this one and usually wear it in the summer. I am in the US Midwest, and decided to bring it out recently to make me think of spring and am definitely enjoying it.

    • Sarah K says:

      It’s been working similar ‘Spring invoking’ magic for me too Mary K, though our winter this year has been a lot kinder than yours. I hope you stay safe and warm through all the blizzards!

  11. Undina says:

    Welcome to APJ, SarahK! Nice to see you in a good company 🙂

    Annick Goutal is one of the houses that I love – despite the fact that many of their perfumes do not work for me. I have a bottle of Un Matin d’Orage (I won it at a draw) and I wanted to like it but it just doens’t do much for me. I do not mind wearing it – I just never find a good reason to do it.
    Undina recently posted…Love at First Sniff or Portrait of a Serial Spontaneous Perfume BuyerMy Profile

  12. Flora says:

    very nice review! I too like the “bruised garden” effect of this perfume, that disturbed freshness of the air that is evident after a storm. Un Matin d’Orage captures this so perfectly.

  13. hotlanta linda says:

    Please go to fragrancestop.com for the body crème jar in Matin ( and Hadrien & Mandragore) before they vanish! Bad rumor from Bergdorf Goodman, NYC – AG may be leaving the store. Most USA dept store`s AG pages are shrunken. Any word on Amore Pacific`s plans for individual stores??

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