Post by Trésor
There is a word in Portuguese; saudade. It means to have great longing for something, someone or some place which no longer exists, which only lives on in precious memory and the longing which may only be pacified by delving deep within the tides of days past and allowing yourself to be swept within the gentle current of reminiscence. That is saudade. Upon occasion one is graced to discover an entity which brings these memories flooding back. Like when I first sniffed Laurent Mazzone’s exquisite Epine Mortelle, within moments I was overcome with nostalgia and found myself reminded of tender moments from my childhood. That which was once faded had been given new life, reborn in brilliant technicolor.
Epine Mortelle by Laurent Mazzone for LM Parfums 2015
Photo Stolen Fragrantica
Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pink pepper, black pepper, sichuan pepper, cumin, nutmeg, anise, angelica
Heart: Violet, damask rose, rose, mimosa, black currant
Base: Musk, vanilla
Upon my initial inhale I am met with an incredible flourish of cascading peppercorns, floating about in the air gracefully as sun dances off of their surface. The heat increases as an aura of spicy capsaicin emanates forth, calling to mind the gentle glow of embers burning beneath coals of black pepper. The emerald shimmer of angelica adorns this sequence like ornate filigree reflecting amaranthine light into the atmosphere.
Photo Stolen WikiCommons
The roseate aurora of pink peppercorn illuminates the background and grows brighter and brighter until it becomes gloriously dense in its illumination and begins to resemble luscious, magnificently ripe raspberries. Not just any raspberries, however, but an olfactory mirror of the raspberries within my late grandmother’s raspberry jam; sticky and decadently rich. An aroma I thought I would never again experience. This is the saudade, pacified. From beneath the surface of the raspberry nectar is born a rose, her petals of crimson velvet. The rose expands as her petals unfurl and release their beauty in the most vivid shade of fuchsia one could possibly imagine; effulgent and florid with light and life. I have fallen so deeply in love with these blossoms that I find it difficult to explain their luxury.
Still, there was something glistening upon her petals that beguiled me to the point where I had spent hours at a time with my nose to my wrist trying to decrypt this code. Then, as we were discussing the fragrance a dear friend of mine pointed it out to me: the ionones! Those same beautiful ionones which infuse one of my greatest olfactory romances, Lancôme’s Trésor. I could smell her immaculate DNA running so beautifully through the soul of Epine Mortelle. I was taken back to my childhood once more and my affection for this fragrance deepened further. What are the odds? How incredibly splendid! A cool breeze of iris joins in and gives me yet another flashback, to the aroma of the makeup my mother had on her dressing table when I was a child. How is this possible? Three times and I am left breathless and completely in love. The dry down grows increasingly confectionary as time passes and plush vanilla begins to dominate the composition. It is within this lush sweetness that the composition ends its life on my skin. What an incredible journey.
Photo Stolen WikiMedia
Epine Mortelle lasts well over 24 hours on my skin and has impressive sillage for the the first 10 hours. I urge any rose lover to give this fragrance ago because I am nearly certain it will not disappoint. It’s made it within my top 10 rose fragrances of all time. For me, Epine Mortelle was a rift in space, affording me the priceless opportunity to venture deep into the past and resurrect incredible beauty. Thank you, Laurent. Thank you so very much.
Do you have a fragrant saudade?
Until next time, my darlings.