Iris Palladium by Amélie Bourgeois + Arnaud Poulain for Les Eaux Primordiales 2015

.

Post by TinaG

.

Hi APJ!

Earlier this year I had the opportunity to catch up with Tara from A Bottled Rose on a whirlwind perfume extravaganza in London. We had an amazing day! One store we visited was Les Senteurs which has a fabulous range of fragrances, quite a few which were unknown to me. (Sorry they don’t ship to Aus).

One of my unknowns was Les Eaux Primordiales, a French fragrance company launched in 2015. We had a quick sniff of each of the perfumes on paper, and Murray (who is one of Les Senteurs’ superbly knowledgeable sales assistants) provided me with a sample of Iris Palladium to try later.

So later is now!

Iris Palladium by Les Eaux Primordiales 2015

Iris Palladium by Amélie Bourgeois + Arnaud Poulain

Iris Palladium Les EAUX Primordiales FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Italian Bergamot, Carrot Seeds, Sage, Solar Jasmine, Cedar, Patchouli, Labdanum, Sandalwood, Iris, Tonka Bean, White Musk

The iris in the opening of Iris Palladium starts off doughy and thick, before morphing and bring in some metallic / chlorine / carrot notes along with a prominent dusty sweetness that softens the composition, taking off some of the metallic edge. The mix of dust/powder is not so much in the “makeup” category, but is a musk. I tend to shy away from fragrances which list ‘white musk’ as a note, for some I can’t bear at all – sorry to say that the Body Shop fragrance of the same name is one of these. However this doesn’t hit my no-go nasal zone, the musk is pleasant, soft and warm.

Iris Palladium Les EAUX Primordiales Iris_palladia WikiCommonsWikiCommons

At 4 hours I’m taken by surprise as a beautiful clean jasmine shines through. It’s really lovely and I realise that it had been humming around in the background all this time with some nutty notes adding to the blend but not overpowering.

The fragrance recedes back to skin at 6-10 hours in a yellow woody powdery waft with the lightest impression of citrus and I smell a hint of bitter ash in the dry down. It’s a pleasant combo and I enjoy the longevity that it keeps well into the evening.

Overall the two predominant notes (varying iris / dusty musk) are complimentary, and round each other out. For people (like myself) who revel in a bold metallic iris it may feel like a pillow has been put over it and muffled the composition. It’s very yin/yang, notes curling around each other & balancing out. But there’s a few surprises in there which keeps it interesting. Worth a trial if you have the chance.

Iris Palladium Les EAUX Primordiales Yin Yanf FlickrFlickr

Further reading: Black Narcissus
Les Eaux Primordials has an outlet page

Have you had any new fragrance lines cross your radar lately?

xx Tina G

10 comments on “Iris Palladium by Amélie Bourgeois + Arnaud Poulain for Les Eaux Primordiales 2015

  1. cookie queen says:

    Hi Tina. No new fragrance lines at this end. But I just booked a ticket to London for four days at the end of September. I’ll drop by LS and try this. If I remember. ?
    Great description. Hugs.

    • TinaG says:

      Hey Val, London in September! Fabulous. ? I’m of course jealous! Hehe. I’ve been testing so much new stuff that my favourites are being neglected, which is the other side of the coin.

      Have loads of fun in the UK – I’m sure I’ll chat to you before then. Hugs xx

      Tina G

  2. Tara says:

    Tina, we really did have an amazing day! Interesting to get your take on Iris Palladium now you’ve had time for it. Sounds like a good’un.

    You know, I can’t bear the Kiehl’s Musk. Just horrible.

    I’m testing the new Amouroud line at the moment which is a new brand by Perfumer’s Workshop. They’re very good quality, wearable orientals.
    Tara recently posted…Rhinoceros, Beaver and Panda by ZoologistMy Profile

    • TinaG says:

      Hey Tara, I have very fond memories of our shopping trip (and cocktails!)

      The Amouroud line sounds interesting – I just looked it up and the Miel Sauvage caught my eye. I’ve heard of Perfumers Workshop, but just in passing. Let me know if there are any stand outs for you 🙂

      xx Tina G

  3. Azar says:

    Hi Tina,

    Your review of “Iris Palladium”, especially the yin/yang reference, has me very curious about this fragrance! Thank you for yet another tempting review! 🙂

    A new line for me? Recently I tried “The Red” from The Sum, a new perfume and accessory house from Portland, Oregon offering minimalist jewelry and fragrances for men and women. The house perfumer is Josh Meyer of Imaginary Authors. “The Red” is a lovely, unisex, smokey saffron with a touch of amber. It reminds me of Josh Meyer’s other work, especially his Memoirs of a Trespasser, but without the prominent vanilla.

    Azar xx

    • TinaG says:

      Hi Azar, The Sum sounds interesting. I just looked at their website and I really like their jewellery aswell, minimalist silver is definitely my kind of thing. Very nice. The Red sounds kinda fab aswell – thanks for the heads up. 🙂

      xx Tina G

  4. Neva says:

    Thanks for the review and a new perfume house to look towards. I have recently discovered Charenton Macerations from New York and I’ve instantly become a fan. After testing a sample of their Christopher Street (a boozy chypre) I ordered a FB and got a sample of Asphalt Rainbow. I think the next FB will be ordered soon… It’s a fantastic take on the rose. They have a a third scent – Eye, Hatshepsut. I haven’t tried it yet but I have high hopes 🙂

    • TinaG says:

      Hi Neva, I’ve heard of Charenton Macerations – love that you’ve grabbed a full bottle! Yay! Ashphalt Rainbow was the one I’d heard of.

      Oh oh. I seem to be developing a new ‘to try’ list!! Haha!

      Thanks,
      Tina G xx

  5. australianperfumejunkies says:

    Hey Tina,
    Sounds so good.
    Portia xx

    • TinaG says:

      Hey Portia! I love that Ooooooo moment when you come across something new. And Les Senteurs had that in spades. A great shop.

      xxxxx Tina G

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *