Tauer Perfumes at Men’s Biz + Discount Code!

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Post by Liam

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My dear fragrant fellows!

Hello! Glad to be back! Where have I been in the past 6 months or so?

Well. In between now and my last post for APJ, I completed my secondary year of schooling – which included an arduous series of examinations! A rather stressful time, but, thankfully I came out with a rather snazzy outcome. People were so interested in my story of balancing school life and blogging at Olfactics that the state newspaper ran a story of me! How cool is that pic? What am I doing now? Philosophy Major!

I have also started working for an Australian company called Men’s Biz – who place the highest, most superlative emphasis on male grooming. With a desire to expand and enrich their fragrant offerings in 2016 – I was the man for the job, and began to work a week after my last exam! No rest for the wicked, as they say…

After careful revamping and curating of Men’s Biz’s selection of scents, we have introduced must-haves such as L’Artisan Perfumeur, Etat Libre d’Orange, and as for the highlight of my 2016 so far….

Tauer Perfumes at Men’s Biz

It brings me considerable glee to inform you that we’ve secured Andy Tauer’s excellent perfumes! After much demand from the Australian community, Tauer has finally hit our shores. To celebrate this monumental occasion, Portia and I cross over and share our 3 favourite Tauer fragrances.

Incense Rose Tauer Perfumes FragranticaFragrantica

Incense Rose by Tauer Perfumes 2008

There is no doubt that at times I get a touch philosophical with the perfumes I review. Incense Rose is no exception. On an artistic level, no perfume is as resplendent, and self-luminescent as Incense Rose. The rose here is wild, neon-coloured and feral – bolstered with cardamom and citrus, but then put into chains with sublime darkness. A vibrating depth of incense, castoreum, and typical woody oriental notes (patchouli, a hint of fresh cedar, myrrh and orris) provide immense contrast … As if the weight of the world just disappeared.

Sotto La Luna Gardenia Tauer Perfumes FragranticaFragrantica

Sotta La Luna Gardenia by Tauer Perfumes 2014

The recipe for this fragrance is, to me, as follows:
Construct an illusionary, hyper-real gardenia flower with an unctuous creaminess by the way of vanilla, and hints of jasmine, rose, and warm tonka bean. At once mossy, strikingly green, and paradoxically spicy and fresh – the whole spectrum – and then, most ingeniously, cover this beautifully constructed gardenia in metallic space dust. It’s a gardenia with a strange twinkle. Out of this world.

L`Air du Desert Marocain Tauer Perfumes FragranticaFragrantica

L’Air du Desert Marocain by Tauer Perfumes 2005

The real question is, who doesn’t know this fragrance?
This is a fragrance that is everywhere and nowhere on the skin – it melts into something that seems to always be just out of reach. A soft sandstorm of dry spice lead with coriander seed and amber, a cloudless sky (the purity of incense), a warm gust felt in the cool shade (cedar, vanilla). L’Air isn’t just a fragrance. It’s a story that needs to be worn.

Please, come check out Men’s Biz
Check out Portia’s Post on Olfactics

Men’s Biz Discount Code!

A little gift for Australian readers – a coupon code from Men’s Biz. Just enter ‘APJ’ at the checkout.

… and of course, my question for you. What is Tauer’s most magical fragrance?

Liam

The Modern Fougere: Kurkdjian, Malle, Penhaligon’s

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Post by Liam

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Howdy Hum Salubrious Scentophiles.

Of the entire gamut of fragrances, I am most cautious of the Fougere.

Why? Do this for me- play a game of covert ops (if you are a man, this is easy. If you are a woman, pretend you are buying a gift for a boyfriend). Head on down to your local department store and ask the question: “I am looking for a safe fragrance at around the one-hundred dollar mark”. Tell them he doesn’t often wear scent, perhaps only for special occasions.

I am willing and happy to wager that if they do not offer you an aquatic to try, they will then offer you either a fragrance in the wood category or the Aromatic Fougere.

The Modern Fougere: Kurkdjian, Malle, Penhaligon’s

What’s wrong with the mass market Fougere? The structure of a Fougere is largely complex, richly layered with a harmonious topdown structure from a vibrant citrus top note, an aromatic hum in the middle, and a weighty wooded base at the bottom. When perfumes mess with these transitions, with cloying drydowns and/or linalool and ambroxan driven facets, piercing top notes, and imperceptible accords – the Fougere has been tarnished.

Jean-Paul Guerlain made a statement that I am inclined to adhere to. He believed that apart from Guerlain’s two Fougere scents – Jicky and Mouchoir de Monsieur, any other Fougere is for truck drivers. Given my current and (of course) personal perspective of the market, I am inclined to say the same.

However! The Fougere begins to shine a pulsating, welcoming, and soft glow when we begin to look at a few more ‘uppermarket’ scents. Here are my favourite Fougeres for a contemporary market.

Sartorial Penhaligon`s FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Sartorial by Penhaligon’s

A superstar in the fragrance community (and when you have the confidence, fragcom is the appropriate blend word to use), I personally really admire Sartorial for its classicism.

I get what I want from Sartorial: a lavender, amber, and sandalwood structure that alloys down a citrus impression at the opening. But Duchaufour takes it a step further. He places the scent in context. In a Saville Row tailor’s workroom. Beeswax, metallic notes, steam-iron notes, and a linen fabric accord intermingle with the classic structure giving depth, definition, and clarity. A wonderful scent.

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Masculin Pluriel by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

This is the antidote to my woes. I am saddened by a lack of clarity in Fougere scents – with these instead presenting a musty static that I cannot bare. Much like Sartorial, the name suggests a throwback to what makes a masculine fragrance – a Fougere! Lavender is a must, along with red cedar, leather, and patchouli. A fragrance representing a quest for the ‘eternal masculine’, a ‘timeless scent’, this comes pretty close. It it predicable and forward, like a good gentleman.

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Geranium Pour Monsieur – Frederic Malle

A minty wildcard, I am currently really liking this one. It is tenacious. It opens with a smooth abrasiveness from Chinese geranium – giving a floral potency lifted with nose tingling mint, anise, and ouzo notes. Combined with the spice of clove, cinnamon and then swept with crystalline musk – Geranium Pour Monsieur omits the toothpaste impression but retains its menthol-like freshness. It is precise; a well-tuned creation that plays on cool and hot. Creating a sophisticated, refreshing and tonic-like fragrance, Geranium Pour Monsieur is probably the best mint-driven scent on the market, and a superb quasi-fougere.

Be kind, and rethink your labelling of the (otherwise almighty) Fougere.
What’s a modern Fougere to you?

-Liam

P.S I’m away for a while, Yr12 exams! See you soon!

Where Did My Scented Journey Begin….

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Post by Liam

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Good Evening Scentspeople!

Detracting from the norm, I wish to tell you about my experience with scent, and how my writing escapades began.

Where Did My Scented Journey Begin

When I was a wee chap I would pinch my father’s fragrances. Polo Black, Fahrenheit by Dior, Bvlgari Black – I would rock up to school with strong officious scents. Whilst my peers and teachers thought this was odd, this didn’t bother me in the slightest.

At 13 or 14, as an early and initial fan of Marc Jacobs’ style, I was thrilled when Bang (the silver bottle) hit the markets. Spice! I have always loved spice! The trio of peppercorns and the resinous notes present in Bang were distinctly different from other scents, and it had this wonderful duality going on: hot spice and cool woods. I finished that bottle and moved on to Burberry’s London (pour homme). Again, this is another spice theme. These two scents acted as a precursor to my obsession and a clear barometer of my taste. Spiced creations with rich interplay.

And then I was treated to a bottle of Tom Ford’s Tobacco Vanille. Warm boozy vanilla and sensual tobacco notes. Dried fruits for weight and tonka bean. An almost edible honey note…

Brin de Reglisse Hermes Liam

Then, visiting the scent section of David Jones late 2013, I spritzed on Terre D’Hermes (parfum), and that was the beginning of the end. I snatched up Terre D’Hermes and wore that as an everyday scent, and journeyed into the Hermes boutique and purchased Eau De Orange Verte. This is where I began to learn the specifics of scent. I was devastated when I couldn’t figure out why this Eau de Cologne would last only a brief moment in time on my skin. This prompted intense research … I was beginning to learn about sillage, evaporation, citrus, orientals … You name it.

Fast forward to June 16 2014. The most important day of my fragrant life. From memory, the day plays out like a perfect vignette. Picture a wet and raining Melbourne day, made romantic with long coats and brollies. I had a collection of about 5 perfumes now, and was even wearing the female marketed Black Orchid by Tom Ford. But, I had yet to find something that grabbed me, and I was determined to find a scent that was truly ‘me’.

Brin de Reglisse by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermes 2004

Brin de Reglisse Hermes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Hay, lavender, licorice

I walked into Hermes, went over to the Hermessence scents and picked up a bottle – Brin de Reglisse – and on first sniff my knees began to buckle. It was heaven in scented format. Everything I loved. The sun kissed smell of lavender from Provence, the caramelised spiciness of long black liquorice, a facet of coffee, and a feature of hay and caramel. Everything I loved was captured in scent. It was a study of liquorice. A snapshot of Provence, reminding me of my times in tearooms scented with lavender and refinement.

I was so thrilled by this reaction that I had to tell someone. And so, I started my blog: Olfactics. With only a year of proper experience under my belt, but indeed a lifetime’s experience of wearing scent, I felt I was prepared to tell the world what scent is to me, and how it moves me (or sometimes, fails to!).

Brin still lies close to my heart, right next to Habit Rouge and Portrait of a Lady (and… and… So many more).

So APJ’ers, what scent started your obsession?

-Liam.

Blogger at Olfactics

Sarrasins by Christopher Sheldrake + Serge Lutens 2007

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Post by Liam

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Sarrasins: A severe perfume.

There are a lot of noir scents on the market. Or better put, there are a lot of noir flankers on the market. Tom Ford’s Noir, Chanel’s Coco Noir, and Van Cleef and Arpels’ Cologne Noire to name a few fumes.

The word noir, whether it’s used to mod a title or used as a title on its own really fascinates me.

On one hand, noir and nuit go hand-in-hand and evoke feelings of a cool and steely midnight in winter. On another, noir seems to be a term impetuously placed on labels as it suggests a darkened fragrance that is largely more severe.

Unfortunately, this is not the usual case. Coco Noir is described as a ‘nocturnal baroque scent’ … with grapefruit?! No no no. That’s not noir. That’s a flirtatious teen girl late at night.

Sarrasins by Serge Lutens 2007

Sarrasins by Christopher Sheldrake + Serge Lutens

Sarrasins Serge Lutens FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Blossoms
Heart: Carnation, jasmine
Base: Musk

Sarrasins is noir. True noir. Sarrasins wraps me in its beauty and then strangles me gently. A metallic note opens floating ephemerally at the top of the overdosing of rich moreish jasmine. I suspect a drop of aldehydes lifts the fragrance and adds some initial space in the beginning, as the narcotic flower begins to bloom on the skin. This effect, a floral dipped in a touch of something artificial, reminds me of Serge Luten’s masterful Tuberuse Criminelle where a scene plays out on the skin as a murder occurs in a room full of tuberose flowers. This almost bloody accord is further tweaked with something undeniably clean – a Luten’s style musk note; camphoraceous and cool.

From here, the jasmine reveals itself emerging like a spike from the skin. It poses danger but never cuts as it is placated with its innate white floral creaminess. Thus its sweet and indolic moments are to be expected and these are spiced with a carnation note that recalls many early vintage scents I have smelled before. Despite the linear nature of the scent, the jasmine note pulls itself down into darker regions. It sways between dead and alive like flowers limply wilting and wrinkling like old leather.

Serge Lutens Palais Royal

‘Warm’ is best used to describe this stage, underscored with a majestic leatheriness and animalics as the jasmine showcases its green facet – here we find resolution between two clashes that learn to exist together in harmony. The sweetness now comes off as fruity and herbal, yet it appears to forever colour itself nostalgically purple and melancholically grey with its impossibly dusty undertones.

So, a noir scent like Sarrasins recalls something tender, tragic and emotionally palpable. Longing but not obtainable. It’s everything you expect from the Serge Lutens’ aesthetic and the noir labelling, a style of fragrance possessed only by truly the most exhaled scents. Anyway, evil is not a bad descriptor at all…

Sarrasins Serge Lutens Moon UnSplash PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

In terms of longevity and sillage, Sarrasins trails me like a spectre. Close, intimate, and radiating energy and a cold stately mood. Moderate.

Further reading: Perfume Shrine and Smelly Thoughts
Serge Lutens can be purchased at Serge Lutens online or in most larger department stores
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml

So! What do you think a true noir perfume is?

-Liam (turning 18 soon – how should I spoil myself?)

Santal Massoïa by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermès 2011

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Post by Liam

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There is no secret that I dislike gourmand perfumes: I can’t stand them! But, there’s another side of myself that secretly adores the sort of gourmand that doesn’t make itself out to be one. Shalimar and L’Heure Bleue are considered gourmands to an extent, but perhaps because whilst they themselves are totally and utterly edible perfumes (Shalimar oscillates beautifully between incense oriental and vanilla dessert amazingly), they do not actively come across as perfumes designed to be eaten. This is where my distinction is drawn. I am a gourmand loving anti-gourmand fan, who happens to love vanillas, chocolatey patchouli and milky woods when they don’t market themselves as edible.

Santal Massoïa by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermès 2011

Hermessence Santal Massoïa Hermes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords: in one line:
Massoïa wood resin from New Guinea, coconut, peach, butterscotch, sandalwood, milk sweets, dried fruits

Jean-Claude Ellena (my favourite perfumer) has treated Santal Massoïa as a meditation on the characteristics of wood notes in perfume. ““There are linear, vertical woods like cedar, and others that are horizontal, round, supple and velvet-smooth, such as sandalwood and massoïa”. Ellena grapples the curvaceous facets of sandalwood and massoïa, and bolsters it to intensify comfort, like an embrace or a soft blanket. Gone are the vertical conventions of wood found often in masculine scents, as Santal Massoïa has been scrubbed down to reveal a genderless woods fragrance, with its apparent lightness an overall illusion.

The result then is a creamy creation, round and indirectly delicious, pushing Ellena’s trademark minimalism to the very edge, described by Chandler Burr as: “maximal minimalism”. Massoïa wood and sandalwood maintain inherent lactic qualities, cradled gently in a bath of warm milk and carmel. To add complexity, Ellena adds an additional dimension of florals and fruits, taking indolic creamy white florals (jasmine, and perhaps tuberose stripped of its carnal severity) with moreish fruits, such as apricots and the sweet skin of green figs. Together, this creates an encompassing impression of coconut and dulce de leche (custard), again, this is warm, decadent and skin-like. A sort of luminism with a clear depiction of calm, and a natural stillness creating beauty.

Hermessence Santal Massoïa Hermes calm UnSplash PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

The sandalwood here is assertive and importantly doesn’t smell synthetic, opening with a tropical humid quality that at certain angles appears wet and nutty, with a tame oiliness. Thus, there are pleasantly pungent aromatic hits from time to time, which is nasally very pleasing and thankfully breaks the wooded monotony. Inviting yet distant, Santal Massoïa trails away with frothy lactic notes and a green fruitiness, but always pulls back into familiarity with gourmand impressions of creamy desserts and scintillating florals.

This fragrance becomes a very elegant second skin that moulds with the wearer and additionally with the seasons. It smells clean and inviting, with it smelling dense in nature but not heavy. I wear this for quiet periods and nervous moments, as I closely project a welcoming and warm presence.

Hermessence Santal Massoïa Hermes Tree Clours PhotoPhilDe FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Non Blonde
Hermès stores stock the Hermèssence range exclusively
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml

What’s your second skin fragrance?

-Liam

Scenting Characters: What would ‘X’ wear?

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Post by Liam

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Good evening fragrance aficionados!

Scent associations fascinate me. Most pertinently, when watching film and TV I often find myself scenting fictional characters. The way certain actors and actresses portray a character astounds me, and sometimes I wonder how they would smell considering their personalities.

Scenting Characters: What would ‘X’ wear?

Anthony Hopkins as Hannibal Lecter in The Silence of the Lambs (1991):

Intellectually staggering; an enigma wrapped in multitudes of haunting mystery. Hannibal Lecter, despite his cannibal tendencies, is an upperclass gentleman with a great disdain towards bad manners!

Bal a Versailles Jean Desprez FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

For Lecter, I choose Jean Desprez floriental “Bal a Versailles”. Totally classical in its composition, I am reminded of scenes when Lecter draws pictures of Clarice whilst listening to classical music. Bal a Versailles is textured wonderfully, expensive (rare), and most importantly for those with great taste! It is exotic, yet grounded by an impression of properness and prissiness. Perfect for Lecter.

Tony Shalhoub as Adrian Monk in Monk (2002 – 2009):

OCD-ridden, Adrien Monk is a delicate creature and a brilliant detective. Often when watching I find Shalhoub delivers a very tangible human quality to the character, verging innocuous yet persistent as his OCD often gets in the way.

Escentric 01 Escentric Molecules FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

I particularly love the ‘square tomato’ scene and another when he meticulously gets his haircut. But, considering this, I don’t think the character would wear perfume because he would find it both interfering and may never find something he loves! Therefore, I choose Escentric Molecules “Molecule 01”. The ISO-E Super is something I cannot smell on myself, which I feel would be a feature Monk would appreciate. Molecule 01’s subtle woody and cedar-like aroma is clean and clinical, much like the character.

Meryl Streep as Miranda Priestly in The Devil Wears Prada (2006):

Powerful, important, and amazingly dressed (the way she tosses Prada bags and expensive coats carelessly – wow!). Clad in the most amazing garments (I consider this film as the impetus for my fashionable awakening), Priestly is the epitome of a contemporary ‘Boss Lady’. She demands respect and universally sets the tone.

Infusion d'Iris Prada FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

I was tempted to give this character Mitsouko, but given her haute position as the editor-in-chief of a fashion magazine she needs to be ‘with it’ as well as timeless. Thus, I choose Prada’s “Infusion d’Iris” for her in work mode. Sleek, slightly cold, and very professional. It is discrete elegance, remembering that iris is very expensive! Opening with citruses, then layered with soft incense and resins on a bed of cedar.

Rod Taylor as Mitch Brenner in The Birds (1963):

Rod Taylor portrays the male hero in Hitchcock’s suspense horror “The Birds”. Whilst the character is firmly placed in a heroic role protecting Tippi Hedren from vicious birds, we also view a romantic tale. The film features really dark and challenging undertones, including the idea of uncertainty and a supernatural-esque danger. Rod Taylor’s character requires something strongly grounded, yet delicate and romantic up on top. Often he is well dressed, donning typical duotone suit outfits for work, with tweed blazers and white sweaters for relaxation.

Chanel Sycomore Chanel  FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

I think Chanel’s “Sycomore” is most appropriate. The mild flounce and tendency to be cheeky is expressed with an amazing violet note, grounded in a vetiver and tobacco accord (a bit like wood varnish) also calling to mind the classicism of Guerlain’s Vetiver.

All these fragrances can be sampled at Surrender To Chance if you’d like to try them

Your turn! How would you scent the following?

Norman Bates – Psycho

Mildred Pierce – Mildred Pierce

James Bond (Sean Connery)

-Liam.

Liam’s Top 3 Frederic Malle Roses 2015

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Post by Liam

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The ultimate flower, a total chameleon of the fragrant spectrum. A rose’s nuances are broad and all-encompassing from woody notes, citrusy overtones, herbal impressions, and delectable fruity tinges whilst lending itself so easily to dank agarwood oriental creations, rich gourmands, and powdery scents with a focus on makeup or femininity. No wonder the Editions de Parfums lineup from Frederic Malle has several rose fragrances!

Frederic Malle Roses Daniele Barucco FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Liam’s Top 3 Frederic Malle Roses 2015

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Lipstick Rose by Ralf Schwieger for Frederic Malle 2000

The risk of smelling like a grandmother always scared me, however Ralf Schwieger turns the smell of lipstick into a sexy medley of intricate notes that firmly plays with the lipstick impression.

Here, the waxy aspects of lipstick are fully heightened. Sweet musks with an almost edible trail form the lingering base, which twirl around a duotone heart of rose and violet. The lipstick impression here is crisp, vanilla-hued and candy-like … And despite my gender this makes me want to source some lipstick and wear it, to experience the sensation of glamour and magnetic attraction without the prominent flounce found in larger floral bouquets. This is a respectable rose fragrance, with a subtle amount of glam found through the raspberry and its rich trail. The projection is subtle on the skin, but the lingering sillage is prominent – truly like a goodbye kiss.

For me, the vintage inspiration is most captivating and I am instantly reminded of times I snuck into my grandmother’s room and scuffled around her makeup drawers with an innocuous curiosity.

Une Rose Frederic Malle FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Une Rose by Edouard Flechier for Frederic Malle 2003

In this fragrance, the olfactory portrait of a rose flower is extended to feature everything. Imagine the anatomy of a rose – The bright red petals and the stamen, the green leaves, stem and thorns. Each fundamental feature of the rose utilised. Une Rose opens like a green and vegetal rose; particularly a dark shard of green with heavy and dense overtones. Une Rose, meaning ‘one rose’ or ‘a rose’, is a soliflore fragrance in the least soliflore way possible. One is hit smack bang with a wet rose pulled out of the ground, roots and all. Dank with the impression of earth, truffle, and petrichor in the background, Une Rose gives rose an exciting treatment combining it with a taut backbone of strong black Perigord truffle.

Une Rose melts and projects off the skin, with the truffle base at the origin of this sensuous rose. To link the carnal smell of skin and the vegetal nature of the flower, I detect an undercurrent of vetiver and patchouli adding a woody and lush edge, with the erotic severity of animalic castoreum. Dig deeper, and a warm and spicy red wine note can be found – adding to the deepness of Une Rose.

Wear it and own it. Une Rose is an intellectually composed fragrance that causes tremors when worn and projects sternly.

Portrait of a Lady Frederic Malle FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Portrait of a Lady by Dominique Ropion for Frederic Malle 2010

Portrait of a Lady has excited a perfume audience in a way that seldom occurs. Here the magic happens – in which natural compliments are explored and any richness is cut to give delicacy. What happens here also is overloading done to the extreme – with Malle claiming that the Turkish rose absolute and patchouli absolute here is the most used ever in perfume history, about 50%. To add to this lavish composition, orientalism is favoured with a symphony of ingredients added – oud, incense, pepper, and clove, appealing to those who love the drama of perfume, with evident transitions of rose that intensifies and perpetually changes on the skin.

This is a spicy turkish delight, with emphasis placed on the word ‘delight’. It is viscous, and screams opulence at the highest level possible with a penetrating angular projection – it is loud but never deafening.

Surrender To Chance has samples of all three fragrances

What’s your favourite rose? How would you describe it in 3 words?
Liam x