Sensual Orchid by Jerome Epinette for LM Parfums 2012

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Tara: A Bottled Rose

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Hi APJ,

Creamy petals in the breeze…

Whenever I’ve encountered LM Parfums online, the brand has come across as rather sleek and sexy. It also has some intriguing English fragrance names such as Army of Lovers, along with de rigueur French ones.

LM Parfums is a New York based niche line launched in 2010 by fashion designer Laurent Mazzone, after first releasing a collection of scented candles. Sensual Orchid is a floral oriental launched in 2012 composed by Jerome Epinette who has done a number of fragrances for Atelier Cologne and Byredo.

Sensual Orchid by LM Parfums 2012

Sensual Orchid by Jerome Epinette

Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin, Almond, Neroli
Heart: Heliotrope, Jasmine sambac, Orchid, Peony, Ylang-ylang
Base: Benzoin, Blond woods, Labdanum, Musk, Vanilla, White cedar

From the name and my impression of the brand, I expected Sensual Orchid to be a nocturnal, narcotic scent. Therefore the fresh opening was a surprise; comprising sweet, juicy mandarin and a dash of booze which together create a cocktail effect.

Almond is a nemesis note of mine but here, combined with orange, it doesn’t trigger an adverse reaction and I may not have even identified it if I hadn’t read it in the notes. The almond and heliotrope merely round out the fruit (and later the florals) giving the composition a gourmand twist.

The luscious fruit continues into the body of the fragrance which is made up of creamy, velvety white florals, mostly ylang-ylang. The finish is plush and the whole composition feels top quality. Sensual Orchid is labeled Extrait de Parfum and the lasting power is extremely good, coupled with noticeable presence.

The style of Sensual Orchid is the vein of the gorgeous Pichola by Neela Vermeire Creations. Both have an exotic feel but are billowy and citrusy.

Flickr

The mood is tropical-lite, starting off with a gentle ocean breeze and blue skies, getting a little duskier over time but never quite hits sultry on me. While I get that vacation vibe it’s not a trashy beach scent in the slightest. It keeps it classy throughout. You will feel like you’re lounging in hotter climes but you won’t have people in the city wondering who’s wearing Hawaiian Tropic sun cream.

As attractive as it is,Sensual Orchid feels too laid back for me to imagine its scent coming from the striking orchid flower. Those blooms are seductive attention grabbers while remaining rarefied and delicate. I wanted the fragrance to be darker, sexier and more mysterious but it is well done, if a tad too sweet for my taste. It’s overtly feminine and entirely wearable.

WikiCommons

Further reading: APJ and Scented Hound
LuckyScent has $220/100ml + Samples

It’s not setting my world aflame but then white florals are rarely my thing. I can imagine it working well for those who like a sweet, rich, hothouse floral with substance.

Have you tried this or anything else from LM Parfums? I’d be particularly interested if you know Hard Leather or Army of Lovers.

Tara xx

 

(Ed: We are so lucky to have Tara drop in today from A Bottled Rose. Do go have a look at her blog. You’ll love it. Thanks buddy!)

Vanille d’Iris by Geza Schoen for Ormonde Jayne 2015

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Post by Tara

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Hey APJ!

I’ve come across from A Bottled Rose today to hang out at my mate Portia’s place and talk about a perfume I came to with great expectations…

Vanille d’Iris by Ormonde Jayne 2015

Vanille d’Iris by Geza Schoen

Vanille d'Iris Ormonde Jayne FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Coriander seed, Sicilian bergamot, carrot seed, schinus molle (pink pepper)
Heart: Orris absolute, jasmine absolute, magnolia bud oil, osmanthus
Base: Vanilla extract, Tahitian vanilla bud, cedar wood, vetiver, amber, musk

From the moment I heard about its release last year, I couldn’t wait to try Vanille d’Iris. Ormonde Jayne’s fragrances are well done and wearable, while still having something interesting to say. I love iris and was interested to find out how it would be combined with vanilla.

Luckily I didn’t have to pay to get hold of some. My great pal Val the Cookie Queen sent me an unwanted sample, being far from enamoured with it herself. I had only read positive reviews therefore I was now beyond intrigued.

There’s nothing to dislike about the immediate opening combo of pink pepper and bergamot. Once it settles down, I become more puzzled than anything else. I get a watery thin vanilla and some papery iris before the overall impression quickly turns into one of a Stargazer lily. How strange.

Vanille d'Iris Ormonde Jayne Audrey Stargazer Lily FlickrFlickr

I don’t find it a scrubber but I don’t find it enjoyable either. Mind you, I’m not normally a lily fan and I don’t like the indoles thrown out by Stargazers. I thought maybe I was imagining things: How could an OJ be anything other than squeaky clean?

A little while later, I felt validated when I saw Portia’s typically perceptive review on Perfume Posse mentioned a “poopy undercurrent”. Ha! Not just me then.

I must say Vanille d’Iris is most definitely NOT a skanky scent but if you do register that facet and it’s not to your taste, it’s hard to disregard.

The vanilla is not the cupcake, sugary variety but it’s also missing the comfort factor. The iris isn’t powdery or doughy but rather carrot-y. Looking at the note list, I wonder if it’s actually the carrot seed that’s throwing it for me because I’m normally a fan of iris accords.

l was disappointed because I really like the Ormonde Jayne line as a whole and had high hopes for this one. I own and love both Ormonde Woman and Champaca but for some reason Vanille d’Iris sadly just hits an off-note (literally) with me.

Vanille d'Iris Ormonde Jayne Poo4SALE GeographGeograph

It should be pointed out that other reviewers love it so don’t be put off if you’re yet to try it. Portia found the subtle indolic backnote to be earthy in a good, if unexpected way and sums up the perfume as “classic and classy”.

Further reading: Perfume Posse and I Scent You A Day
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml

If you’ve tried Vanille d’Iris I’d love to hear about your own experience in the comments.

Tara xxx

(Ed: Go read A Bottled Rose)

An Evening with Portia Turbo: Perfume Lovers London

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Post by Tara

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Hey APJ!
I’m guesting here today from A Bottled Rose to report on a very special occasion – Portia Turbo hosting Perfume Lovers London! The theme for the event was “Great Women” and the following should give you an idea of how it went. Just imagine Portia’s words with a good smattering of hilarious expletives.
So take your seats because here we go…

Portia Tara Perfume Lovers London Jan 2016 #2Perfume Lovers London

An Evening with Portia Turbo

28th January 2016

Portia: This the pinnacle of my fragrance experience, presenting in a chapel. I feel like “Santa Portia of the Fragrances”. The idea is to take 12 woman who were of import to the world and talk about the fragrances I’d put with them.

Portia then gave everyone a slip of coloured paper with one of the women’s names on it.

Queen-cleopatra WikiMediaWikiMedia

Cleopatra VII (69-31 BC)
Ubar by Amouage (1995)
Notes: Litsea cubeba, Mandarin, Orange, Violet leaf, Freesia, Jasmine, Lily-of-the-valley, Orange blossom, Rosewood, Tuberose, Ylang-ylang, Copaiva balsam, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Vetiver, Amber

Portia: Apparently Cleopatra had a face like a foot but a beautiful body and awesome personality.
Ubar has such power but is lilting underneath. Ubar is what I imagine they’d have embalmed her in. It’s a heavenly scent, a beautiful bouquet of flowers.
Who else had Cleopatra and what perfume did you think of?

Audience member: I immediately thought of Poison.
Val the Cookie Queen: Onda Extrait (Vero Profumo)

Stilke_Hermann_Anton_-_Joan_of_Arc's_Death_at_the_Stake WikipediaWikipedia

Saint Joan of Arc (1412-30)
Celtic Fire by Union (2012)
Notes: Oak, Fir balsam, Pine needle, Marmite™ , Birch tar, Sweet gale

Portia: Just for fun I thought we’d pair Joan with Celtic Fire (much laughter). I don’t think it really smells of Marmite.
Lila (Event organiser): Can I just say…
Portia: When it’s your evening you can say what you like (Laughter)
Lila: I was just going to say the perfumer gave Grant from Basenotes a little of the Marmite accord because he belongs to this Marmite secret society.
Portia: {With comic sarcasm} That is a lovely story. Thank-you.

Empress_Catherine_The_Great_circa_1770_(D.G._Levitsky) WikiMediaWikimedia

Catherine the Great (1729-96)
Ambre Russe by Parfums d’Empire (2005)
Notes: Champagne, Vodka, Ambergris, Coriander, Cumin, Tea, Cinnamon, Leather, Vanilla, Frankincense

Portia: Catherine the Great was truly forward-thinking and progressive. Ambre Russe smells to me what I imagine a Russian sitting room would smell like. I think when you wear it you feel like aristocracy – well obviously I do.

Florence_Nightingale_CDV_by_H_Lenthall WikipediaWikipedia

Florence Nightingale (1820-1921)
Sharp by Andrea Maack (2010)
Notes: White musk, Orange blossom, Vanilla

Portia: Being in England I thought I’d pick someone particularly English. I’ve chosen Sharp. It starts medicinal but ends up an incredibly warm fragrance. What did anyone else pick?

Audience member: White Linen, Estee Lauder.

Empress_Dowager_Cixi_(c._1890) WikipediaWikipedia

Tz’u Hsi (1835-1908)
Opium by YSL (1977)
Notes: Bergamot, Clove, Jasmine, Coriander, Laurel, Mandarin, Pepper, Plum, Citruses, Orris root, Lily-of-the-valley, Carnation, Patchouli, Peach, Rose, Sandalwood, Cinnamon, Amber, Benzoin, Coconut, Musk, Myrrh, Opoponax, Sandalwood, Tolu balsam, Vanilla, Vetiver, Frankincense, Cedar, Cistus

Portia: I call her Suzy. I’ve chosen Opium by YSL and we have some of the Parfum from the last century. Back then it was a kitchen sink fragrance – they threw everything into it. It lasts eternally on a scarf.

Eleanor_Roosevelt_cph.3b16000 WikipediaWikipedia

Eleanor Roosevelt (1884-1962)
Rose sur Reuse by SOIVOHLE (2012)
Notes: Tuberose, Red rose, Red berries, Parma violet, Jasmine, Lily, Lilac, Orchid, Oakmoss, Vanilla, Woods, Musk

Portia: Eleanor really helped to create America so I thought I’d pick an American perfumer, Liz Zom of SOIVOHLE. Rose sur Reuse is a rose and tuberose fragrance.

Vanessa of Bonkers About Perfume: I thought of Private Collection, Estee Lauder.

Katharine Hepburn kate gabrielle FlickrFlickr

Katharine Hepburn (1907-2003)
Gentlewoman by Juliette Has a Gun (2015)
Notes: Bergamot, Neroli, Almond, Woody musk, Orange blossom

Portia: When I was a kid the women ran everything so I dreamt that when I grew up I’d be like Katharine Hepburn. Clearly I have her poise. I’ve chosen Gentlewoman by Juliette Has A Gun. It smells like a men’s cologne on a beautiful woman. I know some perfumistas need to be challenged every time they breathe in, but this is just really good. Any other suggestions?

Audience members: “Jicky” “Eau Sauvage as it’s so fresh” “Chanel No.5”

Rosa Parks YouTubeYouTube

Rosa Parks (1913-2005)
Ashoka by Neela Vermeire Creations (2013)
Notes: Fig leaf, Leather, Lotus, Mimosa, Fig milk, Osmanthus, Rose, Water hyacinth, Vetiver, Storax, Frankincense, Sandalwood, Myrrh, Tonka bean, Fir balsam

Portia: I’ve chosen Ashoka because although Rosa Parks was prominent in the civil rights movement, she looks like she had a softness about her. Ashoka starts strong and strident but ends up being a creamy figgy vanilla.

Elizabeth_Taylor_1 WikipediaWikipedia

Elizabeth Taylor (1932-2011)
Byzance by Rochas (1987)
Notes: Aldehydes, Basil, Carnation, Spices, Green notes, Cardamom, Mandarin, Lemon, Citruses, Aniseed, Orris root, Jasmine, Lily-of-the-valley, Rose, Tuberose, Ylang-ylang, Amber, Heliotrope, Musk, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Cedar

Portia: What a heartbreaker she was. I’ve chosen a discontinued gem – Byzance by Rochas. It smells so fabulous on skin that I’m putting some on and walking my fat arse up and down the aisle.
Portia proceeds to windmill her arms through the audience exclaiming “I AM sillage!”

Sylvia Earle WikipediaWikipedia

Sylvia Earle (1935- )
Beyond Paradise by Estee Lauder (2003)
Notes: Bergamot, Blue hyacinth, Jabuticaba, Orange blossom, Philodendron, Jasmine, Italian honeysuckle, Orchid, Mahonia , Ambrette seed, Broad-leaved paperbark, Natal plum blossom, Zebrano wood

Portia: I’ve chosen Beyond Paradise for oceanographer Sylvia Earle because it’s American, a beautiful fragrance and it used to come in a bottle the shades of the sea. They’ve taken some of the breathy jasmine out of the current version.

Audience member: I thought of Lauren or Aliage by Estee Lauder because they’re outdoorsy.

Portia: I also considered Womanity.

Oprah_Winfrey_2010 WikipediaWikipedia

Oprah Winfrey (1954-)
M7 by Yves Saint Laurent
Notes: Bergamot, Mandarin, Rosemary Heart: Oud, Vetiver, Mandragora, Amber, Musk

Portia: Oprah is a woman who has changed the face of the world. M7 was the first oud in mainstream perfumery and it has a real smoothness. The oud and vetiver gives it a kind of petrol-y greenness. It’s fabulous but weird. No wonder it never made any money. Can you still get it?

Nick Gilbert: It’s been relaunched as M7 Oud Absolu.

Portia: Any other suggestions for Oprah?

Audience member: Ambre Sultan (Serge Lutens).

German Chancellor Angela Merkel government.ruGovernment.ru

Angela Merkel (1954-)
Black Saffron by Byredo (2012)
Notes: Honey pomelo, Saffron, Juniper berry, Leather, Rose, Black violet, Blond woods, Raspberry, Vetiver

Portia: Black Saffron is sheer and radiant but tough. It smells of petrichor – rain hitting hot tar. I think Angela is tough but has a sweetness.

Well, it’s been amazing to see you all and so many happy faces! (Huge applause)

Portia Lila Grant Val Perfume Lovers London Jan 2016 #1Val (Cookie Queen), Grant (Basenotes), Lila (Perfume Lovers London),
Antonio Gardoni (Bogue Profumo), Portia Turbo (APJ)

Hope you enjoyed this taster of the Portia Turbo experience. We were all still buzzing long after the event was over. It was such a thrill.
Let me know in the comments if you have any fragrant suggestions for these great women.
Tara xxx

 

(Ed: Go visit A Bottled Rose)