Memento Mori by Mandy Aftel for Aftelier Perfumes 2016

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Post by Portia

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Dear APJ Reader,

Do you ever put fragrance on your skin with no knowledge or expectation of what it will be? With some of my independent perfumer friends that’s exactly what I do. For the sheer joy of experiencing the scent without prejudice. That can make for some pretty far fetched guesses as to what has gone into a fragrance, and the ideas behind it. It’s also one of the reasons I love doing Live Video Sniffs, you get to come on the ride……. Scott and I spend a few minutes smelling the opening and… well, you’ll see….

Memento Mori by Aftelier Perfumes 2016

Memento Mori by Mandy Aftel

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Butter, orris, floral notes (Phyenylacetic acid)
Heart: Turkish rose, beta ionone (woody violet)
Base: Ambreine (amber), ambergris, antique civet, patchoulyl acetate (patchouli isolate)

From Aftelier: memento mori is designed to “remind the viewer [or wearer] of their mortality and the shortness and fragility of human life” (Tate Museum). Memento mori jewelry was known for its intimate workmanship, beautiful delicacy and close associations with eternal love and remembrance. Mourning jewelry was a way for the bereaved to hold on to the memory of a loved one who had passed away: a way of saying “gone but not lost” or “sacred to memory.” It brought comfort and consolation and was not morbid or ghoulish, but touching and loving.

Further reading: Now Smell This and A Bottled Rose
Aftelier has samples from $6/0.25ml

Just so you know, while Momento Mori opens outrageously it does soften off considerable within the first hour. It’s indolic/fecal/barley butter gives way to the softest and plushest comfort scent. Like cuddling your partner first thing in the morning before tooth brushing and shower, still lived in and slightly rank but the smell of shared sleep and awakenings.

You’ve done it again Mandy, bravo.
Portia xxx

 

CHANEL No 5 parfum: LIVE Video Sniff

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Post by Portia

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Hi Wonderful Wafters,

CHANEL No 5 has a mystery and mystique all its own. No other fragrance on the planet has sold in such numbers for so long. It is revered and reviled in equal measure by the fragrance community but to me its about as lavish and comfoting as a hot chocolate on a cold night while snuggled in a feather doona eating Jin’s home made macaroons and watching films. The ULTIMATE!

CHANEL No 5 parfum

LIVE Video Sniff

Chanel No 5 Parfum Chanel FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Neroli, ylang-ylang, bergamot, amalfi lemon, aldehydes
Heart: Iris, jasmine, orris root, rose, lily-of-the-valley
Base: Vetiver, musk, sandalwood, patchouli, oak moss, amber, vanille, civet

From Coco and Marilyn to me, CHANEL No 5 fits almost every mood.

L`Interdit Givenchy: LIVE Video Sniff

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Post by Portia

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Hey Happy Huffers,

This is one of Scott’s favourite fragrances. To be honest I’d never knowingly sniffed it. He loves it, and has loved it for years. It was really lovely of him to bring his amazing parfum find for us to do an opening video of, it’s nice to share the moment.

L`Interdit by Francis Fabron for Givenchy 1957

LIVE Video Sniff

L`Interdit Givenchy FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, spices, mandarin orange, peach, bergamot, strawberry
Heart: Iris, violet, narcissus, orris root, jasmine, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, rose
Base: Sandalwood, amber, musk, benzoin, vetiver, tonka bean

If you have never smelled vintage L’Interdit parfum do yourself a favour and stay far away from its loveliness. Who needs an expensive, discontinued, nightmare to find obsession?

Calandre by Paco Rabanne: LIVE Video Sniff

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Post by Portia

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Well Hello Vintage Vamps,

Today Scott and I finally open a fragrance that has been in my collection for years. It has winked at me from the recesses of the perfume cupboard and sometimes i grabbed it out only to put it back away. I know, I’m a crazy frag hoarder.

Calandre by Paco Rabanne 1969

Calandre by Michel Hy

 

Calandre Paco Rabanne FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Leaf green, Aldehydes, Bergamot
Heart: Rose, Lily-of-the-valley, Geranium, Jasmine, Iris
Base: Sandalwood, Vetiver, Oakmoss, Musk, Ambergris

Vintage joy Parfum by Jean Patou: Live Video Sniff

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Post by Portia

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Hey Happy Huffers,

Vintage joy Parfum by Jean Patou

Live Video Sniff

Joy vintage parfum Jean Patou home 2015

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Tuberose, rose, ylang-ylang, aldehydes, peach, green notes
Heart: Jasmine, iris root, Bulgarian rose, lily of the valley, orchid
Base: Musk, sandalwood, civet

Joy is one of my favourites and I scour the web for bottles of it. We always do opening ceremony videos because some of them are fakes and we need to get refunds. We have had a couple of fakes this summer already. These counterfeiters do an excellent job too, it’s not till you spray the juice that you know.

Scotty and I on the lanai enjoying summer and smelling FABULOUS!

 

Datura Noir by Serge Lutens: LIVE Video Sniff

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Post by Portia

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Hello My Lovelies,

This was a Blind Buy! Yes, I know, that’s the way to penury but I was pretty sure I would adore it. So you guys get to come along for my initial Opening Ceremony and sniff!

Datura Noir by Serge Lutens 2001

Datura Noir by Christopher Sheldrake

 

Datura Noir Serge Lutens FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica Gives these featured accords:
Coconut, tuberose, tonka bean, almond, lemon blossom, mandarin orange, musk, chinese osmanthus, heliotrope, myrrh, vanilla, apricot

It’s always fun with Scotty on the lanai and as usual we blunder through a fragrant masterpiece missing all nuance and generally behaving like a bull in a china shop.

Vanille Tonka by Parfums de Nicolai: LIVE Video Sniff

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Post by Portia

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Hey Hey Crew,

I’m about to jump on a plane with Jin for our 2016 European Adventure. 10 cities in 5 weeks! It’s come around so freaking quickly and now it’s really happening!
WOO HOO!

Vanille Tonka by Parfums de Nicolai

Vanille Tonka: LIVE Video Sniff

Vanille Tonka Nicolai Parfumeur Createur FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Basil, lemon, mandarin oils
Heart: Carnation, orange blossom absolute, pepper oil, cinnamon oil
Base: Incense, vanilla absolutes, Tonka bean

Scotty and I on the back verandah being fools with a super great fragrance. So good, one of the yummy ones.