Madawi by Arabian Oud

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Erica Golding

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Joyfully scented greetings to you all!

I must say, tonight I had planned to write up a different fragrance, but a special delivery landed that smashed my plans into smithereens. Are you into Arabian perfumery yet? If so, you would squee with delight over this hidden gem! If not, seek out this bottle, it will blow your mind from the inside out:

Madawi by Arabian Oud

My gorgeous goddess friend Cyndi has brought tears to my eyes with her incredible friendship, and I am so thrilled that we have bonded thanks to our shared love of scent. Because of her kickassery of sample enabling, I unboxed a presentation today that I already knew housed a scent worthy of the glitz. The packaging is totally over the top, but it dazzled me tenfold because I fell in love with this perfume in a nondescript little 5 mL hex bottle.

What does it smell like? Well, miraculous is one way to put it. Rose petals cascade into an upswell of luscious fruit nectar, precious woods, a tasteful kiss of smoothly aged patchouli, and a silky white musk haze. It is insanely balanced, a very carefully composed blend that really is effortlessly sexy. It screams evening wear, this is a date night perfume for sure – but I know I will be rocking Madawi whenever I want to feel the power of feminine intensity.

From Arabian Oud: A Special fragrance inspired by the character of the contemporary women, the pride of time Al Aseel including the aromatic bouquet of apple, peach, pineapple melted memories of last longing, an anchor on the base of roses and flowers, patchouli and musk, deeply feeling of real satisfaction .

Have you heard of Madawi? Have you scored any other gems from Arabian Oud, whether hidden or a cult favorite or a fragrance legend? An Arabian Oud storefront opened in New York City not too long ago, I am physically aching to go. 🙂 Have you been? Tantalize me with your tales!

Arabian Oud has $150/90ml

Talk to you all soon, hope you spritzed wisely today!

Hugs, Erica

Superstitious by Dominique Ropion for Frederic Malle 2016

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Val the Cookie Queen

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Good Day from the UK APJ Peeps!

As you read this I will probably be trundling my way towards the Frederic Malle store in Burlington Arcade with Tara from A Bottled Rose and the B.londeswunder. Originally it was planned that we would sniff Superstitious together, but that was four weeks ago. I mostly have no problem waiting to try something but every once in a while the junkie in me grabs hold and I have no control. I commented on a FB thread as to how excited I was to try Superstitious and six days later the postman turned up with a package from France with a sample in it. Nothing like a generous addict helping another one out. I believe we call it an enabler in our circle? As opposed to a pusher?

Superstitious Alber Elbaz par Frederic Malle 2017

Superstitious by Dominic Ropion

Superstitious Frederic Malle FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Jasmine, rose, peach, amber, incense, vetiver, patchouli, aldehydes

For some reason I keep calling this perfume suspicious, I think I need to tattoo Superstitious onto my forehead. Dunno why I canÂŽt get a handle on it.

Malle®s first collaboration was with Dries von Noten, the Belgian fashion designer. This was back in 2013. He returns now with number two. Superstitious is an alliance with Alber Elbaz, the Moroccan-Israeli fashion designer, formerly of Lanvin. You might wanna Google him if you have a few moments. He is a really interesting character not to mention his exquisite designs. If I were rich and wore dresses 

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GOBSTOPPER SWEETS

Gobstoppers (jawbreakers) consist of a number of layers and colours, and as each layer dissolves another appears; these layers are often flavoured too. It takes hours and hours, and sometimes days to finish them.

Here we have jasmine, rose, a hint of peach, amber, incense, vetiver, and patchouli wrapped in a thick layer of waxy aldehydes. There is an underlying whisp of grapeness too, the dark purple artificially flavoured Kool-Aid kind. A 1950Žs vintage fragrance presented to us in 2017. As the divine waxy aldehydes melt away, the jasmine just bursts forth indolic, with elegance and sophistication. It languishes and slowly melts down into the rich velvety foundation, yet remains intertwined with the full-bodied base notes. Lavish but with a rough edge, and particularly seductive.

It is perfect, Ropion knows it, and I doubt he cares less what anyone else has to say about it.

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy and Perfume Posse
Frederic Malle has €50/10ml

After using the sample I promptly ordered the 10ml travel spray. My first jasmine. I hope Tara and I will find something else to sniff and whilst in the shop! A travel Dries van Noten might not hurt eh?

Suspicious Bussis
CQ

PS. It might be fair to say if waxy aldehydes and indolic jasmine sounds like death warmed up, you might wanna try something else – as did LJG.

(Ed: Pics supplied by Val the CQ unless otherwise noted)

Le Sillage Blanc by Pissara Umavijani for Parfums Dusita 2017

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Portia

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Hello Independent Fragrance Lovers,

OK, so I’m not sure exactly where my set of Dusita samples came from. I do know they were carded originally and that someone not from their company gave them to me. I bet heaps of you are dying to try the newest one and here’s your chance.

Le Sillage Blanc by Parfums Dusita 2017

Le Sillage Blanc by Pissara Umavijani

Le Sillage Blanc Parfums Dusita FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Orange blossom, Neroli, Tobacco, Artemisia, Galbanum, Leather, Ambrette, Patchouli, Oakmoss

There has been a LOT of talk over the scentbloggosphere about Le Sillage Blanc, I’ll summarise by noting that the house has said they were inspired by Piguet Bandit. People are adding that it is also a kissing cousin of the Aromatics Elixir, Aramis and Cabochard triumvirate. Good, these are all fragrances I love so it will be interesting to see what a 21st century incarnation may smell like.

Le Sillage Blanc by Parfums Dusita uluru PixabayPDI

The opening is sharp and noxious, like weed poison. It’s so queer I’m immediately captivated and can’t stop smelling my freaky armed self. The greenness is of broken green leaves and slightly off vase water. Le Sillage Blanc’s got a not quite rightness about it that feels like it’s about to drop over the edge into unwearable but it skates nimbly around the edge. It’s on a knife edge whether it’s going to work or fail.

It takes minutes to skate safely into the realms of the beautiful, artisanal style of independent fragrance. Not for the faint hearted or those that have never ventured beyond the safety of the department store. Even against its kissing cousins Le Sillage Blanc is a tough mother. After the super spiky green opening it becomes dry, parched, as if quite suddenly I find myself in the Australian outback riding a camel under the burning sun and surrounded by red dirt with occasional shade created by a scraggly gum or rock ledge.

Le Sillage Blanc by Parfums Dusita olgas PixabayPDI

And dry it stays, dry and bitter like long lost regret and heartache. Only smoothing out slowly and becoming more comfortable as it melds with my skin scent and becomes ever so slightly human.

Further reading: Megan In St Maxime and Scenthurdle
LuckyScent has $205/50ml and Samples

Le Sillage Blanc GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 1 winner who will receive:
1 x Carded Manufacturers Sample of Le Sillage Blanc (Hopefully I can find the card)
1 x Porcelain Esxence Bracelet (Perfect fragrant handbag jewellery)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us in the comments if you love the chypre style and which of them particularly moves you or if you hate it and why?

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Wednesday 10th May 2017 10pm Australian EdsT and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Wednesday 17th May 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Scent Diary 1.5 – 7.5.2017

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Portia

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Hi there fellow fumies,

I’ve learned a new put down. Don’t Get Thin Lipped With Me You Scrofulous Harpy. HA HA HA HA! Isn’t it heavenly, so deliciously awful and will have your opponent diving for their dictionary. Just so you know, Scrofulous is in reference to the tuberculosis illness and general degeneration, Harpies were mythical beasts with womens bodies & heads, birds wings & claws. I know, fabulous isn’t it.

Scent Diary 1.5 – 7.5.2017

Monday 1:

Not exactly sure what’s wrong with my baby Paris but he did another wee, this time in the house. Jin is off later in the week and we are going to take both dogs to the vets to get them checked out.

Paris Stretching May 2017

We caught the train to town. Jin wore Neela Vermeire Bombay Bling and I slathered myself in Mona di Orio Eau Absolue. We smelled wickedly good.

Mona di Orio Eau Absolue May 2017

On the train Jin Portia May 2017

Our beautiful girlfriend Alice is going home to the UK for a month.  Jin & I were able to catch up with her in town today for lunch. We went to one of my all time favourite venues the David Jones Food Hall in Sydney city. It’s a really wonderful lunch venue with loads of choice. I grabbed us an antipasto plate for entree and then we all had steak at The Grill. It was a totally fun way to farewell our mate and not very expensive either. The butcher has some of the best meat ever and they will soon be doing home delivery.

Farewell lunch Jin Alice Portia May 2017

After much we went for a bit of a sniff through the city shops. I added Amouage Bracken Woman on my left arm and Estee Lauder Modern Muse on my right. So I was completely fragrant for the ride home too. We felt the need to take a SMELFIE.

SMELFIE Sniffing Diptyque Jin Alice portia May 2017

OK, so I’ve become obsessed with the Gilmore Girls. Can’t seem to prise myself away from them. Tonight I kept watching one more episode until VERY late and then fell asleep without finishing my Trivia Q&A. OMG! So naughty of me. It won’t be long now because I’m already in season 6.

Tuesday 2:

Had to get up and finish the Trivia Q&A which took till noon. I am a wretched boss feeling very guilty.

I gave myself another healthy spritz of Mona di Orio Eau Absolue to write my questions. I have been trying to finish a 15ml decant for ages and now that its gone I am finally using my bottle. I find it balmy and smooth, TBH I thought it had lashings of lavender in it but it seems to have zero.

Tuesday is beard dying day. The white beard looks very lame with drag so I have to keep it dark and lustrous. I do admit though that I also like it dark as a bloke. It’s youthful, though I am not. I did get excited about my bubble bath today though because I used the last of my gorgeous gift from Jocelyn Fullerton of Cult of Scent. Golden Dreams is TO DIE FOR! Sadly it’s not regular range, special for me. You can get her fragrances and candles from the Cult of Scent site though.

Golden Dreams Cult of Scent May 2017

Over my bubble bath scent I spritzed liberally with Guerlain L’Heure Bleue EdP, I think it’s this century. Very nice, perfect for how I’m feeling tonight.

Guerlain L'Heure Bleue EdP May 2017

Home now, walked & fed the dogs and back to the Gilmore Girls. Chat tomorrow.

Wednesday 3:

It’s Wednesday late morning. Dogs are fed & walked. I took them by my favourite local coffee joint and grabbed one to go as we wandered the streets. It’s cool and there are some clouds flitting by. Though the dogs are excited to be out and wandering I find it peaceful to wander aimlessly, chat to locals, see the seasons changing. EVERYONE that loves dogs wants to pat the boys so we get quite a bit of chat time, I like it a lot.

Wearing Sonoma Scent Studio Rose Musc. It’s very pretty, red roses and leaves in a bottle. It was a perfect wandering companion. Later, through it’s life a fabulously animal musk came through, not dirty or loud but a friendly musk that wears subtly underneath red roses that last for hours & hours.

May 2017 Sonoma Scent Studio Rose Musc

Tonight for work I’m wearing 5 big spritzes of modern Guerlain Shalimar EdP and 2 of vintage parfum, this scent is my happy place.

Thursday 4:

Woke up with a jolt, wide awake and jumped out of bed. Fed and walked the dogs on a beautiful autumn morning.

Then I got caught up on a small slice of the Office Work that I’ve neglected. Hopefully Tuesday next week will get it cleared. I love having an empty inbox and all the bills paid and taken care of. There’s some mail still going to the house I sold over 2 years ago. I thought we had redirected EVERYTHING but clearly some stuff slipped between the cracks because the couple that bought it called and left out a BIG bag of it. I just collected it last week and I’m feeling overwhelmed.

BFF Kath’s Mum has been moved to rehab after a nasty tumble, breaking 3 ribs and fracturing her arm. Grabbed Kath and we went up to see her today. Yesterday was her birthday and it was a sad & sorry one for the poor girl. I think we brightened up her day just a smidge.

Mum, Dad & Kath Waples Portia Rehab may 2017

It’s cooler today so I wore a few spritzes of Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles. Sweet, spicy chutney & herbal woods. Excellent choice.

Tonight at Turbo Trivia we had a completely full house. It was an excellent night and so many of my favourite teams were in the house. It was loud and people were having fun.

I wore original Trussardi Donna, every time I wear it I love the light leather of this fragrance.

Spent an hour or so chatting to Neela Vermeire tonight. She is so funny, we laughed and nattered and fixed all the problems of the world.

Friday 5:

Friday dawned bright, crystal clear and sunny, not too warm and definitely hoodie over T-Shirt weather.

I had a fullish morning planned. The door guy had to come back and add a door closer to our screen door but he didn’t give me a time, hoping to be here by 2pm. When he did arrive the job took less that 20 minutes and he is a sweet man so it was nice to have him come back and fix the lack. Now we have a Self Closing Screen Door, which is what we paid for. YIPPEE!

If the door guy had come early I wanted to go see Kath’s Mum with her over lunch but things didn’t work out so when Jin gets home we can go visit.

Around midday I realised I was hungry so I made myself a little late morning tea. MMMMMMM Toast with Peanut Butter and Vegemite and a cuppa. I sat out on the balcony with the dogs and they were very well behaved. After the initial excitement that it might be for them they skedaddled right back to their beds and watched me eat with hungry, loving eyes.

In my free time I’ve been blogging. YAY! Yes, getting stuff done for next week and organising the Perfume Posse pieces for May. It’s a really relaxing when I put my mind to getting something done and then let my creative juices flow. Industrious, cleansing and cathartic all at once. It also has the added benefit of getting stuff done so I’m not worried about it. WINNING! Currently I smell like MFK Baccarat Rouge 540, Rochas Byzance and Aether Citrus Ester. There is a note in the Baccarat Rouge 540 that reminds me of Aether Methaldone.

Jin arrived home, we went and saw Kath’s Mum in hospital. On the way home we grabbed LOADS of Chinese food, watched the 2017 Winter episode of the Gilmore Girls. It was weird seeing them after 10 years but the good news is Logan Huntzburger, played by Matt Czuchry, my favourite character looks better than ever and they even have a storyline between Rory & him that feels super 21st century.

Fed & walked the dogs. Now Jin has gone to bed and I’m tap-tap-tapping away at the computer keys. Bliss.

I wanted to buy some Grand Soir and Baccarat Rouge 540 from MFK tonight but my mind was on other things and I bloody forgot to get the grand Soir. I’m a bloody idiot.

For bed I wanted something vanilla floral sweet but not too heavy so I went with Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia. Perfect.

Saturday 6:

Saturday and Jin went off to work around 4am. Usually I sleep right through but today I woke up. Wide awake. He usually trots the dogs quickly downstairs for a wee when he wakes. He noticed I was awake and brought the dogs in to cuddle with me. It was so lovely. I had to change the bedsheets anyway so no harm and the dogs & I lay around in bed till 9am feeding and walking. CHANEL Boy was my morning accompaniment, lovely soft balmy lavender for an autumnal wander. There’s even more air in the bottle since this show was taken.

When Jin got home this evening it was Chinese reheats (MY FAVOURITE) and the 2017 Gilmore Girls final three episodes. So good. we laughed, we cried. Matt Czuchry is even more enthralling, I melted every moment he was on screen. PLEASE let them do a new series…….

In honour of the Favourite Vintage Scent Question I wore vintage Miss Dior extrait around the house tonight. It was cozy and perfect.

Sunday 7:

While walking the dogs they became very excited and it turned out to be a little Australian Noisy Minah that had wandered from its family, fallen from its nest or something. He would definitely have become cat food during the night so we brought him home and are feeding him a mixture of minced beef, egg, egg shell grounds and lorikeet dry food. He’s so bloody cute we called him Finbar and he’s nearly ready to fly free. We’ll take him to the vet tomorrow and see what they say.

First thing this morning we went to the Sydney Harley-Davidson centre in Strathfield. Jin needed to do some paperwork, buy a new helmet and jacket and show me his Mid-Life Crisis Impulse Buy. While I’m shaking my head at his ridiculousness it’s not so bad. So far he has pierced his nipples and bought a Harley. Any day I’m expecting him to start at the gym and bring home a Toy-Boy. One thing I am proud of him for though is that he is living his life as he chooses, has a solid debt reduction plan to lower the mortgage and pay off the bike and has not overcommitted himself. He even has Life Insurance just in case and is almost the highest level of Health Cover. That’s all pretty good for a man not quite 40 who came to Australia with a suitcase and almost no money in 2006.

I finished off this lovely Angel style bubble bath today. It’s a cheapy from Bath & Body Works that smells great and bubbles like crazy. Mountains of them. YUM! Because my base is so obviously sweet I have overlaid Michael BublĂ© By Invitation. You have no idea how good I smell. SWEEEEET

So, what’s been going on in your world?
Have you seen, done or smelled anything interesting?
Please share your life in the comments below. I love to read about your weeks too.
Portia xxx

Saturday Question: What Is Your Favourite Vintage Fragrance?

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Portia

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Hello Fellow Fumies,

I have had an idea. Well, actually I’m copying an idea from Olfactoria’s Travels. Once a week there used to be a Question. Everyone would chime in with an answer, chat with other responders and it would be a generally fun events each week. Taking sides never meant taking offence and everyone kept it respectful and light.

I’d like to carry on that tradition, maybe you’ll see it on the weekend or chime in through the week. Hopefully you will come back and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them.

If we get over 150 responses I will draw a $20 Surrender To Chance Gift Card. Every comment will get a place in the draw, so if you comment purposefully on your own or another comment you’ll have a chance, random.org will draw the winner on Friday and the winner will be announced in next Saturdays question.

Saturday Question:

Saturday Question: What Is Your Favourite Vintage Fragrance?

OK, so firstly I’m going to define Vintage for this question. Yes, THIS QUESTION ONLY. There is a wealth of argument for and against this but that is todays parameter. Vintage for todays question means anything from before 1990. So any fragrance released up to 1990, especially if it has been changed due to IFRA, budget cuts or fragrance house stupidity.

My answer:
This is hard because I really love my vintage fragrance. One of the problems is that I feel guilty if I don’t choose the ones my Mum wore, giving them Scent Memory Status. Also, my taste is so mercurial that pinning down a favourite this week could easily not be my choice next week. Also, I love some things that I rarely wear because they’re so precious, and wear some things that I merely like because I have an abundance of them and know they smell great on me.

So, I’m going to give the gong today to vintage Miss Dior extrait, created in 1947 by Paul Vacher, Jean Carles, Serge Heftler Louiche. Though it’s not a memory scent and isn’t an iconic fragrance as such it does give me instant and lavish eyes rolled in head joy. I love the way it’s so softly lived in and it’s warm furry galbanum/oakmoss meets floral heart. Strikingly green and earthy yet light as a feather and chock full of precious floral bouquet till the sweet woods, lightly salted dry down.

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Galbanum, Bergamot
Heart: Jasmine, Rose, Gardenia
Base: Oakmoss, Ambergris, Sandalwood, Patchouli

So my question to you is

What Is Your Favourite Vintage Fragrance?

 

Grand Soir by Francis Kurkdjian for Maison Francis Kurkdjian 2016

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Portia

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Hey Hey Lovers Of NEW!

So many people with noses that I revere are raving about Grand Soir. I tried it a couple of times while out shopping and it left me bored to tears and cold. By the note list I should be madly in love with Grand Soir. All those fabulous resins, tonka and amber? I’m not quite sure why it didn’t grab me by the scruff of the neck, shake me around and throw me to the ground with my eyes rolling into my head, panting and palpitating.  Pretty sure that it’s not the fragrances fault so I’m going to give it a home along wearing. I ordered 3ml from Surrender To Chance and I’m ready to go.

Grand Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian 2016

Grand Soir by Francis Kurkdjian

Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Spanish labdanum
Heart:Siamese benzoin
Base: Brazilian tonka bean, Amber, Vanilla

So, in the comfort of my home with no other fragrant distractions grand Soir is a beautiful resinous amber. Softly comforting, tree sap sweet and cuddly. Actually the light touch here reminds me of Pierre Guillaume’s work. Toffee, maple syrup, salted caramel icing and peanut brittle are the images and tastes created in my mind & mouth.

Imagine if you took Absolue Pour Le Soir and dialled the animal back from 20 to one. Grand Soir has the same furry yet porcelain smooth feeling. Through the heart the sweetness lessens and Grand Soir becomes drier, more sweet warm summer evening winds.

PDI

My thoughts are that Francis Kurkdjian is a bit like Serge Lutens, he makes a rare few challenging and outrageous fragrances and a bunch of more accessible ones. These accessible ones are the bread and butter of his business, have a wide department store appeal but with the niche cachet. It’s a clever business model and it has worked for him, bringing MFK the brand to a place where it’s become one of LVMHs new acquisitions.

So Grand Soir is a beautifully blended amber/resinous scent. Easy to wear, lasts well and smells good. If I didn’t already have a dozen ambers in my collection or if I was newer to the perfumista life I would definitely put down my dollars for a bottle.

Wikipedia

Further reading: BLeauG
LuckyScent has $215/70ml
Surrender To Chance have samples from $4.50/0.5ml

Does Grand Soir appeal to you?
Portia x

Fumee d’Or by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz for DSH Perfumes 2014

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Portia

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Hello Independent Fragrance Lovers,

A bunch of DSH samples arrived at once a while ago and I liked so many of them but having been trying to space them out so you all don’t get overwhelmed our bored. You know I love Dawn’s work, something about her style fits me really well and I LOVE the way she picks a note or style and creates the perfect setting to highlight it. The more fragrances I spend time with in her collection the more impressed she makes me.

A note of advice though. This is Independent Small Batch Perfumery. If you ONLY know or like the department store, super smooth, focus group tested out of all ingenuity or flair, ultra sweet fragrances that you are offered on a daily basis then you are in for a surprise. Give yourself a moment to adjust, don’t put your nose to the wet patch you just spritzed, give it at least a full 20 seconds before you go in for the up close sniff. These fragrances have top notes but they are also deeper, more interesting and have a real journey that you will have much more fun with if your nose hasn’t been blown out.

Fumee d’Or by DSH Perfumes 2014

Fumee d’Or by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

DSH Perfumes

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Aldehydes, Australian sandalwood, bergamot, oakmoss, Bulgarian rose, civet, jasmine, immortelle, incense, leather, myrrh, neroli, agarwood (oud), jasmine sambas, tobacco

Created as part of the Brilliant Collection for Denver Art Museum’s “Brilliant: Cartier in the 20th Century”. Fumee d’Or is designed as a stand alone AND to be used as a base for the other three fragrances in the DSH Brilliant Collection, to add the lustre of the goldsmiths creative process. I bloody wish I’d read that before I used up all the others. Oh well.

The first thing I smell is immortelle, civet and oudh. I swear there is also honey in here. Imagine the most gorgeous, brilliant cut cognac diamond set in a ring of clear pave diamonds in a matte yellow gold setting and you have some idea of how Fumee d’Or smells.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Gottlieb-Salome%27s_Dance_1879.jpgWikiMedia

I’m sure all the notes listed are inside but I am solely captivated by the metal and animal facets. This is exactly my level of animals. They are friendly and furry, plush even. As thick as bear fur and as light as caribou. A very interesting juxtaposition of the dense and sheer that is absolutely captivating.

Here Dawn shows her absolute power over notes that in many others hands would become clunky, cumbersome and sickening. This is vintage done 21st century and without the stringent IFRA laws. A fun feral frolic with depth, elegance and a sense of having been made especially for me. Luminous, yet deep, hot and exotic.

Wikimedia

Further reading: IndiePerfumes and Colognoissseur
DSH Perfumes has a variety of strengths and sizes from $6

Does Fumee d’Or sound like something you might wear?
Portia xx