Gucci Guilty Absolute by Alberto Morillas for Gucci 2017

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Portia

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Hey there Designer Frag Fiends,

Normally a 21st century message about a Gucci flanker would draw single eyebrow raised type archness from the grand perfumista community. Stick of shocks the word on the scentbloggosphere is that this newly released creature is Da Bomb! Even noses I’ve revered forever are calling this a return to Tom Ford time form for Gucci. High praise.

I did try it in the Duty Free area on our latest jaunt and found it nice enough. What I didn’t realise was that when I was buying some stuff in Luxembourg the SA had given me a sample to take home. YIPPEE!

One thing I have noticed is that this is an incredibly well priced fragrance. Kudos to the creative director at Gucci, Alessandro Michele, for keeping it so affordable. The scent is Coty group, does anyone know if they have the whole Gucci line under lock & key or is this new?

Gucci Guilty Absolute by Gucci 2017

Gucci Guilty Absolute by Alberto Morillas

Gucci Guilty Absolute Gucci FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Woodleather®, Goldenwood®, Nootka cypress, Patchouli, Vetiver

Woodsiness, a little bit sharp like pine. Behind the crisp new planks of wood it’s smoky and dry. Very niche smelling and the leather is expensive clothing leather, finished and new. Though Gucci Guilty Absolute is fragrant there is a modern sheerness that reminds me of the way a Jean Claude Ellena Hermessence would smell if he chose to do this style. There’s something spare and unearthly about the treatment of woods and leather here.

During the heart I also get metallic and oily hints, like old, well used machinery running but not working. Also sawdust, you know how mixed wood sawdust has a dry and dusty wood smell? Like that.

Gucci

When the patchouli arrives it is waxy and clean, a very nice background noise that adds a smoothness to Gucci Guilty Absolute.

I bet this is a major hit for Gucci. Everyone could wear it, easy to wear, smells expensive and refined. I can imagine school kids, office workers, ladies who lunch and gym bodies all spritzing and wearing Gucci Guilty Absolute beautifully.

Further reading: Persolaise and Brooklyn Fragrance Lover
Gucci Australia has $108/50ml

What was the last Gucci scent you liked or bought?
Portia xx

Apollo Hyacinth by Alberto Morillas for Eric Buterbaugh Florals 2015

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Portia

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Hey fumes,

I wrote about Apollo Hyacinth back in 2015. It has remained in my head and on my To Buy List since, so recently I bought another 3ml decant to see if I’ll go through it. My major concern, and why I haven’t gone FB on this green beauty is the bottle. I really love how it looks and think it’s perfectly gorgeous but if I had to decant it out to wear I think it would just not ever get used. Yes, I know how petty that sounds but let’s be honest here. If I have 17 green fragrances to choose from and 3 of them need to be decanted out to be worn then you can be bloody certain that those three will end up being totally ignored while I spritz some CHANEL No 19, Giverny In Bloom, Silences or Niki de Saint Phalle.

Apollo Hyacinth by Eric Buterbaugh Florals 2015

Apollo Hyacinth by Alberto Morillas

Apollo Hyacinth Eric Buterbaugh Florals FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Neroli, pear, galbanum
Heart: Hyacinth, lily of the valley, angelica
Base: Haitian vetiver, oakmoss, cedar

Candied pear, or pear with sugar on top, galbanum and greenery. Imagine a stinking hot day and you’re walking through the shaded bushland eating a pear and drinking pear fizzy soda. That’s how Apollo Hyacinth opens for me. Elegant, spacious and yet friendly. This is no austere No 19 or arctic Giverny in Bloom, no, this is welcoming green. Even the angelica has a sweetness to it and I’m not sure how it has happened but it’s so different that I am surprised every wear. About an hour or so in I smell the soft, drippy, green stalk of cutting flowers from bulbs as plain as day. Also the LotV makes an appearance around this time but not as a lead player.

Because I’m wearing Apollo Hyacinth today in 35C heat my own sweat has added an extraordinary saltiness that I have never noticed before that skews the whole fragrance a little towards the salty white floral. Very interesting.

Apollo Hyacinth Eric Buterbaugh Florals

Lasting power is excellent, though after 4 hours you have to be very close to notice.

I’m thinking I will buy the Discovery Kit at $315 with 8 x 10ml of the whole range except the new one. They are all spritzers and come with a Travel Case.

Further reading: Perfume Posse and Australian Perfume Junkies
Eric Buterbaugh Florals has EdP $295/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples from $5/.5ml

Would you be bothered decanting?
Portia xx

Apollo Hyacinth by Alberto Morillas for Eric Buterbaugh Florals 2015

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Fragrant Family,

There are some perfumers whose name will make me prick up my nose in anticipation. A name that I know, though usually cannot pinpoint what it is they did that I love. Alberto Morillas is one such, he has done some of my all time favourite fragrances and a slew of my mates signatures through the years. Let’s talk Byzance by Rochas, M7 by YSL, Mugler Cologne, Kenzo Flower, BVLGARI BLV Pour Homme, BVLGARI Man, Lanvin Oxygene and the original Salvador Dali. These are just my favourites from the plethora of major blockbusters and some very good, well created flops and some absolute shite that I wouldn’t clean my driveway with.

Apollo Hyacinth by Eric Buterbaugh Florals 2015

Apollo Hyacinth by Alberto Morillas

Apollo Hyacinth Eric Buterbaugh Florals FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Neroli, pear, galbanum
Heart: Hyacinth, lily of the valley, angelica
Base: Haitian vetiver, oakmoss, cedar

Apollo Hyacinth opens with unruffled calm. Natural fresh cut fruit sweet and the pear smells cool, ripe and juicy: there’s even a hint of the dry and tarter skin. Galbanum smooths the opening giving green resinous porcelain, breath steals in and suddenly the sweetness becomes a litle candied.

Our heart has arrived and it’s a bouquet, fresh, green and stark. An angular, other worldly bouquet that says broken twig, lichen, moss and the gel like sap of aloe vera. There is peace and calm in Apollo Hyacinth, a breath of fresh air and a humid hothouse in the cool of evening. The energy of healthy soil and growing plants. The angelica adds a wild waywardness that the other flowers never possess, it’s enchanting, riveting. Like hyacinth is all grown and ready to rock.

Apollo Hyacinth Eric Buterbaugh Florals

Lasting power is unbelievable, though after 4 hours you have to be close to notice. Next day, 20+ hours later I can still smell the tiniest trace of sweet oily green that is only smellable with my nose against my arm. If it was a sexual tryst though whoever my lucky partner was would be getting a waft from me that is freaking gorgeous, I’m me and I want to root me.

Apollo Hyacinth is 100% unisex, a beautiful, billowing cloud of fresh green and white flowers. I cannot think of a place where you would feel mismatched were you lucky enough to own this glamour frag. SERIOUSLY WANT!!

Further reading: Perfume Posse and Scented Hound
Eric Buterbaugh Florals has EdP $300/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples from $5/.5ml

Aren’t the bottles stellar? How lavish. Do you want one yet?
Portia xx

Journey Man by Alberto Morillas + Pierre Negrin for Amouage 2014

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Frag Family,

There is no secret how much I admire Christopher Chong his curatorship of Amouage and think him excellent company. So when I first tried Journey Man, with its spectacular box and signature Amouage man bottle in ruby and gold I was saddened by my lack of instant and all moving lust. Expectation is a funny thing, sometimes I hype stuff in my head so much that they can never live up to the dream. It’s a bit of a killer actually so I thought it a good idea to grab a sample from my mate Nick at Libertine Parfumerie recently so I could revisit the fragrance with less expectation….

Journey Man by Amouage 2014

Journey Man by Alberto Morillas + Pierre Negrin

Journey Man Amouage FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Sichuan pepper, Bergamot, Cardamom, Neroli
Heart: Juniper berry, Frankincense, Geraniol, Tobacco leaf
Base: Tonka bean, Cypriol oil, Leather, Ambrox

Journey Man smells quite like a lot of other niche offerings for men, a hark back to the woodsy tobacco and smoke fragrances so popular for men in the designer genre. If GUCCI hadn’t forgotten how to make perfumes this could easily have been in their line-up and it sometimes through its life smells like it should have come from Tom Ford. I know we try to shy away from sexual mandate here at APJ but Journey Man really feels rugged, rough and ready yet smooth and cozy. Through the sharp and bitey pepper which tickles my throat just like it does in food, the tobacco that has a faintly green resinous quality and the brand new leather and woodsy burn the whole fragrance feels calm and unruffled. I can imagine a thousand would be lumberjack hipsters showering, trimming and combing their beards, moisturising, gelling, clear mascara-ing and spritzing from this uber glam bottle before dressing in their office attire in their walk through robes.

journey-man-amouage hipster pipe Unsplash PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

By the time these imaginary hip gents made their way to work they would be a softly focused spicy tobacco that fades to lightly salted leather/woods throughout the day. By the time they hit the gym after work there will be a barely there, mixed with their own manly odours, whisper of the woodchoppers life left to entice the gentlemen gym junkies. Tired, pumped and freshly showered they would emerge like lumberjack butterflies from the gym to hang loudly and obnoxiously with a jar of beer at their local cruise and booze joint, eyeing each other off and making coded conversation till someone takes their physical fancy.

First line from intended? “You smell amazing!”

Below is my buddy Darren, he is EXACTLY what I’m talking about when I think of Journey Man. Darren is recently 100 days clean and his Instagram @bobbydazzler_ has photos and videos of him showing his joy at being clean and his abhorrence of wearing clothes. I swear 99% of the shots are him either standing or dancing in his jocks. Pretty freaking hot actually, go see.

Darren Anthony @bobbydazzler_

What I’m left withof Journey Man next morning is a faded something, still woodsy and a little resinous. Very nice to wake up to. MMMMMMM

Further reading: What Men Should Smell Like and Non Blonde
Libertine Parfumerie has $445/100ml with FREE Australian Postage
LuckyScent has $345/100ml
Surrender To Chance have samples starting t $4/.5ml
Currently US$345 = AUD$495. That’s a saving of around AUD$50!

What is your favourite Amouage?
Portia xx

 

Iris Prima by Alberto Morillas for Penhaligon`s 2013

Hiya Fellow Fumies,

My mate Nick from Libertine Parfumerie sometimes sends APJ product for giveaways. A package from Nick is ALWAYS a sweet surprise and he is a lovely guy who wants to have a great range of fragrance for Aussies to choose from. Please, even if you don’t enter today’s competition, go and have a look at the amazing fragrant beauties that Libertine Parfumerie has for sale, you will be astounded. Lately Nick’s buying power has become so good that some (not all) of his products are the same numerical value as you would buy them for in the USA, that means with the current Aussie dollar that they are in fact 10-15% cheaper!!! AMAZING!

Iris Prima by Alberto Morillas for Penhaligon`s 2013

Iris Prima Penhaligon`s FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, pink pepper
Heart: Iris, jasmine
Base: Leather, sandalwood, vetiver, amber, vanilla, benzoin

Iris Prima has certainly cut the blogging world in half. There are some who know Penhaligon’s aesthetic quite well and got a lovely fresh and pretty iris-ish fragrance with light sillage and wearing close to the skin unless you spritz yourself wet. Many people because of the name Iris Prima and the story of the ballet had extraordinarily high expectations that Penhaligon’s would completely change its soft focus, easy wear self for something cutting edge and boundary pushing. Naah. This is the softest, least intrusive scent I have smelled from the line. I wonder if it’s aimed at children of wealthy families who want to be ballerinas?

The bergamot and pink pepper are exactly as you would expect them to be and very much how they are in 1.000 other fragrances released over the last 5-10 years, the very first spritz has a whiff of leather but that burns off quickly to reappear later. It’s a fun, fresh, zingy opening that is completely unoffensive and will not scare anyone away. Very general public wearing and nice. The iris is cool and ever so slightly carroty on my skin and I hardly notice the jasmine at all, either my skin eats it, I am anosmic or it plays a far away back up role. After that Iris Prima becomes a very soft wash of fragrance that doesn’t really have notes so much as it is a quiet and reserved, I want to say leather but it’s so muted that I can’t even call it a name warmed by a splash of vanilla.

I get about 3 hours of fragrance until I cannot smell anything at all other than me. I can see Iris Prima being a big hit for non perfumistas who want to smell something as they get ready in the morning but who work in fragrance free or very close working conditions. Iris Prima is soft enough to be a very pretty fabric softener remnant that you are wafting, no one will be skunked by you EVER.

I like my fragrance bigger but many of you might really love Iris Prima.

Funny follow up: I was wearing quite a bit of Iris Prima to write about it today. Tonight THREE separate people complimented me on my fragrance at work, one of them was the barmaid who I never would have thought to be a fragrance noticer. Genuinely and totally entranced by Iris Prima. Interesting that others notice Iris Prima and think it’s drop dead gorgeous.

Portia xx

Further reading: Another Perfume Blog and Olfactoria’s Travels
Libertine Parfumerie has $254/100ml delivered in Australia
First In Fragrance has €170/100ml and €5/4ml samples

Iris Prima GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 Major Winner who will get:
1 x Penhaligon`s Iris Prima 100ml bottle
(minus the Secondary Winners Prizes, the lid is wonky but spritzer perfect.)
P&H Anywhere in the world

3 x Secondary Winners who will each receive:
1 x 10ml decant of Penhaligon`s Iris Prima
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Go to Libertine Perfumes<<<JUMP and find me one of their BATH PRODUCTS and the COMPANY…………….. NO DOUBLE UPS!!

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie @PenhaligonsLtd Iris Prima GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-2Ck #Perfume #Giveaway @LibertineParfum

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 30th March 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Thursday 3rd April 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Special THANKS to LibertineParfumerie for these amazing giveaways. Please visit their site because they are so generous and helpful. If you wonder why they are sometimes more expensive than the discounters or OS retailers it’s because they are the only licensed company selling their fragrances in Australia; where you know you are buying new, fresh and genuine product. The cost of importing, and buying the right to import, alcohol based fragrances (and having the right to send alcohol based fragrances throughout Australia, which are illegal to send in the Australia Post air system) is expensive and they must cover their costs to bring you these luxury goods.

 

BLV Pour Homme by Alberto Morillas for BVLGARI 2001

Hi Flitter Sniffers,

How lucky am I? One of my buddies Scott and I talk fragrance all the time. Recently he asked if I’d tried BVLGARI BLV Pour Homme ansd I had to admit that I hadn’t because while I love the BVLGARI aesthetic and loads of their jewellery, am thrilled that they basically invented tea fragrances and think their bottles are gorgeous I have suffered from too available snobbishness and not really sniffed the line at all. What did he do to rectify the problem? Gave me his own bottle which has clearly been loved to 20% left. Honoured? Yes I am…

BLV Pour Homme by BVLGARI 2001

 BLV FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Ginger, cardamom
Heart: Tobacco blossom, tobacco,, juniper, gingko
Base: Grey teak, sandalwood, cedarwood, musk

Many, no to be honest a couple, of the reviews I read about BLV Pour Homme were dismissive of it saying it is predictable, boring and unimaginative. Compared to WHAT?? Opens warm and ripe, a sexy and spicy welcome that gets its sparkle on quickly and you can smell the cardamom clear as day. When the initial rush calms down you are left with a green, wet, slightly boozy and powdery fresh scent that stays that way for a while before the woods demand your attention, they’ve been there all along but the other accords were too big to let them shine. It’s a warm and dry finale that will linger till tomorrow morning, I never seem to get to the end. There is always a small whiff of fresh woodiness left that is way more lovely than my skin.

Too hefty for a fragrance phobic work but anywhere else BLV Pour Homme by BVLGARI is a winner. Not nearly as ubiquitous as it was in the early 21st century, and it’s a deeper and more expressive fragrance than most of what is offered now. BLV is a lady killer, caveat emptor! I love to wear BLV and snuggle on the couch too, it’s that6 kind of fragrance, loving myself sick.

BLVpourHomme perfumeblvdPhoto Stolen perfumeblvd

Further reading NowSmellThis compares BLV with  Lutens: 5 o’clock Gingembre
FragranceNet has 50ml $32 before discount
SurrenderToChance starts at $3/ml

Have you tried BLV Pour Homme? Do you know someone who wears it? Does the BVLGARI line entice or repel you?

Here is proof not to judge until you have spritzed.
Till tomorrow, take care of yourself and those around you.
Portia xx

Aqua di Gio Essenza EdP by Alberto Morillas for Giorgio Armani 2012

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Guest Post by EmmaKate

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Hello fumies,

EmmaKate here to share another great scent of my silly season. I gave this to a true love in my life. It was purchased for my baby brother who is 25 and gorgeous.

Aqua di Gio Essenza EdP by Giorgio Armani 2012

AquaDiGioEssenze FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cold fresh water, bergamot, grapefruit, calone (melon)
Heart: Jasmine, basil, sage, floral paradisone
Base: Patchouli, cedar, vetiver, ambrox, ambergris, pepper, clary sage

HotTrunks peperonityPhoto Stolen Peperonity

Fragrantica describes Aqua di Gio Essenza EdP- “The composition begins with luminous tones of cascalone molecule, which captures the olfactory experience of cold and fresh water, sparkling citrusy bergamot and grapefruit. The heart bares floral and aromatic accords of jasmine, basil and sage, as well as explosive floral paradisone molecule, while the base combines notes of patchouli, cedar, vetiver, ambrox, ambergris, pepper and clary sage.”

Part of the Aqua di Gio story, Essenza is like a splash of fresh sexy water, which intensifies and evolves into a woody, citrusy full bodied scent. This has been designed to be a more intense version of the original and is an Eau de Parfum, I say- they have succeeded. This fragrance is a classic scent to give a guy who is new to fragrance or wants something easy to wear. Super easy to wear, super easy to smell, it is one of those fragrances that would make you follow that delicious man around the bar.

HOT-GUY carisroanePhoto Stolen carisroane

Me being me, I sprayed the scent and wore it for the day, a few things happened, I wanted to make out with myself, the scent evolved into a very sensual citrus and it wore for about 8 hours. This definitely wears far longer then the original, luckily as this is an Eau de Parfum. Overall this gets a big tick from me for something any of the men in your life would be happy to receive!

Further reading 1000Flowers
FragranceNet has 75ml/$65
MyPerfumeSamples starts at $2/ml or $7/5m

Thanks for reading,
EmmaKate x
(Dear EmmaKate I added some gratuitous man flesh, I hope you approve: Portia xx)

The original Aqua di Gio movie