Rose Oud by Calice Becker for By Kilian 2010

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Portia

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Hiya APJers,

Rose Oud happened in the heart of the Rose/Saffron/Oud explosion. For some reason, though I love this combo madly, it completely passed me by. Maybe I smelled it but was overwhelmed by others in the line. Also being a Calice Becker should have had me paying attention.The Arabian Nights series was exemplified for me by Continue reading

Tea and Sympathy: Scent Memories of Mum

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Post by Anonymous

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Hello APJ,

She died in the early hours of a Monday morning. There was no pain, just hours of quiet ragged breathing interspersed by pauses until, finally, one pause became permanent.

My mother had always loved tea. In the last years of her life she hardly ever ate a full meal, but she was always up for a cuppa and a biscuit. She loved visitors and was always quick to offer a cuppa and a chat to anybody who dropped by.

Tea and Sympathy chezbeate pixabayPixabay

Once she had left, I decided a good way to remember her would be to wear tea fragrances for a while. No great thinking lay behind this, just one of those things you reach for to help you deal with the news. It was a way of reminding myself of what she liked.

Tea and Sympathy: Scent Memories of Mum

Masque Russian Tea FragranticaFragrantica

On the day of her passing, I chose Masque Russian Tea. This is the most overt tea fragrance that I own, a real hit of lapsang souchong, almost exactly like breathing in the heady fumes of a stiff brew in one of mum’s fine china cups.

Silver Mountain Water Creed FragranticaFragrantica

Tuesday was dreadfully hot, and I was in no mood to deal with that. Creed’s Silver Mountain Water was the right tea fragrance in the heat. This one is a crisp cup of white tea, not huge in flavour but elegant and refined. Like a lot of Creeds on me, this one didn’t stay long in the extreme heat, but I enjoyed it while it lasted.

Oolang Infini Atelier Cologne FragranticaFragrantica

My favourite style of tea is oolong, and I thought Atelier Oolang Infini would be a good one for me. Sad to report, it isn’t. I could barely tell that I had perfume on, even after applying it for a second time. Atelier have a few stars in the line-up, but this was a disappointment.

Eau Parfumee au The Vert Bvlgari  FragranticaFragrantica

Green tea is another favourite, and Bvlgari Au The Vert was my pick as the classic green tea style in my collection. This never disappoints; a really nice scent that doesn’t impose itself on people and it can deal with the heat. A fairly linear bergamot and tea concoction; is this what Earl Grey would smell like with green tea instead of black?

Tea for Two L`Artisan Parfumeur FragranticaFragrantica

L’Artisan’s Tea For Two takes a different direction, blending tea and tobacco notes for a rich, warming fragrance rounded out by spices and wood. This one is a winter fragrance for me, and didn’t work too well on this hot Friday, but it is one of my favourite tea scents, and I wasn’t going to leave it out.

I had my doubts about Saturday, the day of the funeral, and seriously considered not wearing any perfume at all, out of respect for the occasion. But this is not our way; funerals are sad occasions, sure, but they are also celebrations of a life lived, and a rare occasion where our far-flung extended family can get together. People came from interstate and all around the world to join us, and I decided that celebrating was the best way to think of the day.

By Kilian Bamboo Harmony FragranticaFragrantica

I chose By Kilian Bamboo Harmony for the funeral. It might sound macabre, but there is something about the plush-lined black box that it comes in that seemed appropriate. This is another white tea and bergamot blend, like Silver Mountain Water, but it nods towards Asia rather than Europe. It’s discreet and long-lasting, and proved to be a good choice.

Yerbamate Lorenzo Villoresi FragranticaFragrantica

Sunday was worse than Saturday. An empty, numb feeling all day, now that something truly was missing. Brunch with the family, but I really didn’t feel like it. What I wanted was to be by myself at last, go for a long walk in the sunshine and listen to some music. I did all that later and my feeling was buoyed by the perfect tea scent for a bright sunny day – Lorenzo Villoresi’s Yerbamate.

From now on the scent of tea will unlock something in me that it never has before,
Thanks for reading.

Amber Oud by Calice Becker for By Kilian 2011

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Fragrant Fiends,

Oudh. The 21st centuries answer to IFRA compliant base notes. It is the ubiquitous fully fragrant, dark, deep and dirty base note giving a solid grounding to an industry that has lost its regular, centuries old palette to drug companies greed: the modern multinational fragrance component creators. I’m sure it’s a more complex problem and that I’ve missed most of the memos but from the other side of the world this is how it looks to me. Sorry, end rant.

So, I tried Amber Oud around the time it came out and could not justify the spend to myself at that time, 5 years on I wondered if my thoughts had changed with the ever increasing price of fragrance. Was $395 a reasonable price for something I remember being so lovely, and reading the other reviews written at that time it was as special as I remember and many others were happy to drop that kind of cash on it.

Amber Oud by By Kilian 2011

Amber Oud by Calice Becker

Amber Oud By Kilian FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Amber, Benzoin, Spices, Oud, Vanilla, Cedar

Softest, plushest, tamest oudh ever. So gorgeously rolled and folded into the spicy vanilla/amber bakery and only held slightly dry by the crispness of cedar. Warm and enveloping I can see why even the oudh haters love Amber Oud so. Lightly medicinal, a tiny hint of band aid and only the merest waft of poop Amber Oud is almost a gourmand oudh, oudh light or kiddies oudh. So velvet soft and cozy, as close to a warm beige cashmere lounge throw as oudh can be. Delightful, sweet, sensational and gorgeous: the words that jump into my head while sniffing are not the usual ones associated with oudh in my experience. The By Kilian crew have created the most fabulous general public oudh and it makes me smile.

The amber is sweet and caramelised, lit from within and effulgent Ambre Oud grows more and more lovely. Very reminiscent through its heart of the L’Artisan L’Eau d’Ambre, a similar warmth and purity. It stays pretty and buoyant and luxurious, the most expensive caramel toffee.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Here’s my quandry: yes this is lovely. It’s incredibly wearable, luxurious and gorgeous, no doubt about it. When I press my nose to my fragrant spots it is utterly swoon worthy. When it’s not so close, when I’m catching whiffs of it as I go about my day, Amber Oud is not a lot better than 50 other ambers on the market. From Queen Latifah through L’Artisan, Nicolai to Giorgio Armani: yes they are all different but at arms length the differences are not so pronounced, yummy amber. Is Amber Oud at $395 from $370-$150 better? Is it really? I hang my head in shame because for me the answer is no…. I’ll put my decant away and try it again one day, maybe then?

Amber Oud By Kilian red No Entry Pixabay

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Bois de Jasmin
LuckyScent has $395/50ml
Surrender To Chance has $5/0.5ml

What is your cut off point? Do you have one? How important is having something in your collection?
Portia xx

 

 

 

By Kilian Launch in Harrold’s Sydney

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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By Kilian has finally graced Australian shores, exclusive to Harrold’s Sydney and Melbourne. By Kilian was originally launched in 2007 by Kilian Hennessey.

Kilian hails from a long heritage of cognac makers and gained his interest in perfumery through a curiosity of “the angels share;” the mysterious percentage of alcohol, which disappears during cognac’s aging process. He studied with perfumers Jacques Cavallier, Thierry Wasser, Alberto Morillas, Calice Becker and worked with perfume houses including Dior, McQueen and Armani.

Luxury and beauty is the core of the brand but there is an edgier side too exploring daring themes such as forbidden pleasures and addictive states of mind. With Kilian citing “perfume should be a messenger who opens a thousand doors in the memory” we can sense his passion. He believes a great perfume is firstly a great story, which evolves into a fragrance, comparable to film making, in that a director cannot make a film before first writing the script. Packaging states “Perfume is an Art” but Kilian says it should also have a conscience, therefore all bottle a are refillable and can be kept and reused for a lifetime ecoluxe philosophy:

By Kilian Launch in Harrold’s Sydney

I shimmied into Harrold’s, Sydney to have a long awaited sniff. The shelves looked gorgeous in black and white while packaging glistened opulently, obviously inspired by art deco.

by Killian Ainslie Harrolds Launch #2

First smelling Straight to Heaven and Liaisons Dangereuses, both florals from the L’œuvre Noire collection. These contain the highest quality and most expensive raw materials in perfumery today. The goal was to create a collection with no limits to imagination or price. The scents are inspired by art and literature working around themes of love, its prohibitions and temptations.

by Killian Ainslie Harrolds Launch #1

Asian Tales collection is a spiritual olfactive journey inspired by traditional Asian folklore. The red adorning the bottles and boxes salutes Chinese culture and considered a lucky color. The silver coin amulet with eight letter k’s engraved on it, dangling from a red tassel is intended to bring success to the fragrance wearer. I smelt Bamboo Harmony, the only citrus fragrance from the brand.

In the Garden of Good and Evil explores carnal sin and is supposed to manifest sexually charged desires. A jeweled clutch featuring a snake protects the bottles and doubles as an evening bag, even fitting an iPhone! I smelt woody In the City of Sin, floral Good Girl Gone Bad and floral oriental Forbidden Games.

by Killian Ainslie Harrolds Launch #5

The most recent released collection, Addictive State of Mind nods to the highs of olfactive dependence and give a sense of escapism. Containing ingredients such as coffee, tobacco and sugar Intoxicated, Light My Fire and Smoke for the Soul are all classed as wood fragrances and are all so tempting!! The packaging is a heavy and solid keepsake and reminiscent of a vintage cigar box.

by Killian Ainslie Harrolds Launch #3

Have you been down to experience the collections? Have you tried them before? Tell me some stories of your encounters with By Kilian brand!!

Good Girl Gone Bad GIVEAWAY WINNERS

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Post by Portia

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Thanks again to my mate Nick from Libertine Parfumerie who has managed to import the by Kilian range to Australia and now it is exclusive to In Store Shoppers at Harrold’s Sydney & Melbourne. Amazing GIVEAWAY buddy, THANK YOU!
Australian’s do go have a look at the Libertine Parfumerie site, it’s amazing.

Let’s see who won,
Portia xx

Good Girl Gone Bad GIVEAWAY WINNERS

 

Good Girl Gone Bad By Kilian FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Jasmine, osmanthus, may rose
Heart: Indian tuberose, narcissus
Base: Amber, cedar

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 winners who will receive:
1 x 10ml Good Girl Gone Bad by Kilian
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 20th September 2015 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

Winners thegarfieldshow-diaryPhoto Stolen thegarfieldshow-diary

sun (via TWITTER)

Greg

Ellen

The winners will have till Thursday 24th September 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Good Girl Gone Bad by Kilian 2012

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Post by Portia

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WOO HOO! Another pack arrived from my mate Nick from Libertine Parfumerie. A package from Nick is ALWAYS a sweet surprise and he is a lovely guy who wants to have the best range of niche fragrances for Aussies to choose from. Today we are celebrating that Nick has managed to import the by Kilian range to Australia and now it is exclusive to In Store Shoppers at Harrold’s Sydney & Melbourne. Near pissed myself with excitement when I heard and had to keep it under my hat for a while. Now you know….

Good Girl Gone Bad by Kilian 2012

Good Girl Gone Bad By Kilian FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Jasmine, osmanthus, may rose
Heart: Indian tuberose, narcissus
Base: Amber, cedar

So I have an apology to make to by Kilian. I completely dismissed this fragrance when it came out. My reasoning was sound: a soft focus tuberose that opens lightly green and finishes sweet vanilla white flower was hardly groundbreaking, nor was it even slightly outrageous, it wasn’t even a little confronting. Now all of that is true, I do have high expectations of Kilian Hennessey’s brand because quite a lot of it is absolutely glorious, back arching, eye rolling, throat achingly beautiful and when his company makes something so safe and delicate I need to readjust my perceptions and levels.

Fracas Light would smell something like Good Girl Gone Bad. The heart is a very similar bubble gum tuberose only slightly greened through yet her we find no indole but an almost ylang-ish banana butter, a creamy and fatty smooth textured tuberose that is clean. Interestingly it’s not the sheer, radiant white flower that is so popular but a heavy, thick fragrance made spare, given some space between the notes as if you are smelling it from a couple of steps away. Good Girl Gone Bad is not the glutinous mass of Truth or Dare either (that I love) but a warm, illuminated, golden white floral that floats softly and insistently around me in a languid, pale, golden feeling aura. Not synæsthesia but a feeling, like warm sunshine that unfrosts you as you stand with your back to it, it feels golden though in fact it’s colourless.

 by Kilian LuckyScent 2014Kilian, Tom, Portia, Christina, Barbara, Andrew @ LuckyScent 2014

So then, here’s the question I often ask myself, would I cough up for a bottle? The answer is twofold. Yes, if I didn’t already have so much tuberose in my collection, much of which wears bigger and more outrageous (one of the reasons I love it so much) but some like Nuit de Tubereuse and  La Chasse aux Papillons that wear silkily sensual like this, though they are quite different. I would definitely buy this as a gift though for friends who like white flowers but cannot wear the big guns, it would also make a magical bridal scent, even the bottle is perfect for that special day.

The more I wear Good Girl Gone Bad the more of a hold it’s getting on me……. Maybe I would wear a bottle worth…….

Further reading: Perfume Shrine and EauMG
Available in Australia exclusively in store at Harrold’s Sydney & Melbourne
LuckyScent has $160/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml

 giveaway TheTruthAboutMummyPhoto Stolen TheTruthAboutMummy

Good Girl Gone Bad GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 3 winners who will receive:
1 x 10ml Good Girl Gone Bad by Kilian
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us a by Kilian fragrance you love and why

Extra Chance?
Tweet: Good Girl Gone Bad by Kilian GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-4gZ #Perfume #Giveaway

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 20th September 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Thursday 24th September 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Sample Pack

Hey there Crew,

I have a bunch a samples & decants that sit here tested but now in the discard pile. There are many reasons for being there. Maybe I bought a FB, it had an issue that renders it unwearable, I hated it, I liked it but have something similar, I LOVED it and completely forgot about it, I’ve moved on. So many reasons, so MANY samples. They are all used a bit but they have heaps for testing and trying, all are at least 2ml and most are spritz. I know you’re going to love at least something in this pack.

Most of these samples have been purchased from Surrender To Chance in 2015

Sample Pack Giveaway June 2015

SAMPLE PACK

  1. 222 by Le Galion Manufacturers Sample
  2. Aoud Heritage by Montale
  3. A La Rose by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
  4. EO3 by biehl parfumkunstwerke
  5. Surrender by Surrender To Chance
  6. Tudor Rose & Amber by Jo Malone
  7. Forbidden Games by Kilian
  8. Kiss of Agnayi by Primiordal Scents
  9. Rose de Grasse by Aerin Lauder
  10. Eclair de Tubéreuse by Il Profvmo
  11. SnoBirds by SmellBent

Please help me with a little clear out.
Portia xx

giveaway TheTruthAboutMummyPhoto Stolen TheTruthAboutMummy

SAMPLE PACK Giveaway

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x SAMPLE PACK
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us what single 2014/5 fragrance you would like to sample if there were no money constraints and you were given the chance

Extra Chance?
Tweet: SAMPLE PACK GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-330  

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 14th June 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Thursday 18th June 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.