Durga by David Moltlz for D.S. & Durga 2017

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Portia

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Hi there APJ,

I was wearing this beautiful scent with no idea how much it costs. It came in a bunch of new scents split by a mate of mine. Blissfully unaware I spritzed with abandon and really enjoyed the way it smells.

This morning it is cool and crisp and the weather feels like it’s perfectly attuned to todays fragrance.

Durga by D.S. & Durga 2017

Durga by David Moltlz

Durga D.S. & Durga fragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica Gives these featured accords:
Top: Tuberose, melon, chrysanthemum
Heart: Ylang-ylang, orris, orange blossom
Base: Tuberose, jasmine sambas, musk

Creamy tuberose, made awkwardly and sweetly juicy by the juxtaposition of melon and mums. It is a catchy opening that sideswipes my expectations. Smelling smoothly resinous, clean tuberose and this freaky undertone that is skating around the drop to disgusting but manages to pull itself or keep itself nice. The opening is not traditionally beautiful and is chock full of florist floor realness. Stemmy offcuts, discarded flower petals, bucket water and road dirt. Durga smells like some of the best, most interesting and slightly challenging independent perfumery. It’s raw and not all the rough edges are smoothed to a glasslike finish.

The heart comes through and reads as a bouquet to me. All notes working in harmony to create something other, something different, yet still encompassing the notes list. If you know perfumes DelRae Amoureuse then you will recognise this tightrope walk between hideous and heavenly. Though not smelling the same the feeling is similar.

PDI

Then somehow at about the 15-20 minute mark Durga becomes all heavenly symphony. A sheer tuberose out front and everything backs and supports.

From LuckyScentWhat does floral nirvana feel like? We’re not talking about an overdose of girly, cookie cutter fruity-florals, or a powder-drenched grandma scent, but rather, in D.S. & Durga’s own words, “palatial doses of the finest floral absolutes, ” a no-costs-spared approach to creating the ultimate limited-edition fragrance. So what does it feel like? Rapturous.

WikiCommons

LuckyScent has $350/50ml and Samples

$350 is a lot of money for 50ml. Is that a deterrent to you?
Portia xx

Heatwave Fragrances for Summer 2015

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Post by Greg Young

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Hey APJ,

South-east Australia has been sweltering in a heat wave for days on end. Going outside has been like walking into a brickmaker’s kiln, and staying inside hasn’t been much fun either. Conservative businessmen such as myself are dispensing with their ties and looking fondly at the pub over the road from work, dreaming of a cold craft beer.

Choosing the right fragrance for temperatures like this can be tough. I feel the need for something that picks me up in the morning and sends me out feeling at least a little bit chipper. For me, that usually means something with a citrus hit. It also needs to defy the evaporative force of baking Melbourne heat, so classic EdCs are off the list. Here is how I dealt with the heat this week.

Heatwave Fragrances for Summer 2015

Orange Star Tauer Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Thursday: the wave begins
The CBD baked in 36 degree heat. Tauer’s Orange Star has a sharp citrus juice opening that is very refreshing on a hot morning. It’s not really my idea of a summer fragrance; the vanilla and tonka bean give it a sweetness that I think is more appropriate for cooler days. The fact that Orange Star lasted the distance in this heat is impressive; I could still smell its amber drydown 12 hours later at home, in the cooling blast of A/C.

Blenheim Bouquet Penhaligon`s FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Friday: the swelling wave
When the thermometer climbs to 39 and it’s accompanied by a northerly wind Melbourne becomes positively beastly. I chose Penhaligon’s Blenheim Bouquet for my Friday fragrance. This very traditional fragrance was designed for Winston Churchill’s father – Blenheim Palace is the Churchill family seat. It’s lemon and lime scent was just what I needed, bolstered by a refreshing pine. This was a perfect pick. While not exactly fighting on the beaches, it never surrendered.

Italian Citrus D.S. & Durga FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Saturday: the wave crests – and a special occasion.
It was 41C (106F) on Saturday. We planned to travel for a weekend away to celebrate our wedding anniversary. This meant we had to go out in blinding heat, sit in a car where the seats set fire to you when you climbed in, and moan to one another about how hot it was.

We went to dinner at a rural Italian restaurant of considerable note and I chose D.S. & Durga’s Italian Citrus, with its powerful, complex, almost bitter citrus note that really stays with you. It developed a sweeter musk as the night wore on, but the citrus remained until the end rather than giving way to the base notes. It lasted a good four hours.

Masque Terralba FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Sunday: the wave breaks
Only by comparison to the furnace of Saturday could the 39 degrees we reached on Sunday be considered cooler. We were in the car again travelling home. At the outset we could feel every one of those 39 degrees, cutting short our trip to get into the car and just leave.

I wore Masque Terralba. There is a cedary opening to this, but it’s cut by a little bit of lemon. It has an oceanic note that I can’t quite place, which reduces the woodsiness. Some herbal green notes emerge later as well.

Shortly after arriving home, the heat wave broke. Intermittent showers of rain brought relief from the fearsome dry, and the temperature tumbled ten degrees in just a few hours. The heat wave was over – until the next one.

Surrender To Chance is a great place to sample most of these.

How do you cope with heat?
Greg Young

Debaser by David Moltz for D.S. & Durga 2015

Hey Hey APJ,

I regularly look through the Recent Releases at Surrender To Chance because Australia doesn’t get most of it. Already we have had quite a few releases this year. Recently I grabbed a few so I want to take a look at a couple of them this week. Let’s start with a company that I am often interested in but rarely try and also rarely read about on the blogs I frequent.

Debaser by David Moltz for D.S. & Durga 2015

Debaser D.S. & Durga FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Fig, iris, coconut milk, tonka bean, white woods

Surrender To Chance & D.S. & Durga give these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, green leaf, pear stem
Heart: Fig, coconut milk, iris
Base: Blond woods, tonka bean, moss

It was the STC note list that spurred me towards Debaser. Pear stem? Fig, coconut, iris & moss? Though I’ve no idea how the stem of a pear smells I love the other four notes mentioned and even the surrounding stuff reads really good. Then, as I started reading further about the fragrance I learned that “The wild shrill of Black Francis coming through the radio in the August heat” was an inspiration. So Charles Michael Kittridge Thompson IV who performs as Black Francis is frontman for influential alt rock band The Pixies, and the have a song called The Debaser. The idea for this song came from a short silent surrealist film, Un Chien Andalou (An Andalusian Dog), which was a collaboration between Spanish director Luis Buñuel and artist Salvador Dalí in 1929.

Debaser D.S. & Durga Un Chien Andalou WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

A woody fig scent, or the idea of fig in a perfumers dream, dry and juicy at the same time, sweet and savoury too. The idea is interesting and appealing with the yummy image in my mouth of sweet soft cheese and fig. The dryness seems to win as we move into the fragrance and there is a hint of walking past a newly painted room while eating fig. I wore this to the movies last night and all through the film I caught whiffs of fig jam and suntan lotion. The coconut becomes more apparent through the heart and I get a fun beachy feel that softens out to clean, very lightly sweet, woods.

Having now read a bunch of other reviews I find that everyone is having completely different experiences and memory triggers from Debaser, truly surreal.

Debaser D.S. & Durga Illumined_Pleasure Salvador_Dali WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Debaser is a wonderfully thick fragrance for the first hour and then it slides slowly into a background hum that lasts and lasts, next morning I can still smell a soft woodsiness with a whisper of sweet figgy jam overtones. After the first hour I think Debaser would even be wearable as an office scent, not that its terribly quiet but there is something quite engaging about it, I can think of no better word than amiable.

Further reading: Colognoisseur and Scented Hound
LuckyScent has $145/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4.50/.5ml

I think you need to try Debaser for yourself. Hopefully you will have a different experience that you can share with us.
Have you tried any of the DS & Durga frags?
Portia xx