Five O`Clock Au Gingembre by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2008

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Portia

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Hi there Fumie Family,

Five O`Clock Au Gingembre has long been my favourite Serge Lutens. When originally testing the range it was the one that stood head and shoulders above the rest for regular wearability. Having recently finished a bottle, opening my new one was full of excitement. Recently it’s been bandied about that Five O`Clock Au Gingembre is on the chopping block so true to form I’ve been wearing it so much more often.

Five O`Clock Au Gingembre by Serge Lutens 2008

Five O`Clock Au Gingembre by Christopher Sheldrake

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Tea, bergamot
Heart: Ginger, cinnamon, woodsy notes
Base: Cacao, honey, amber, patchouli, pepper

My new bottle is different. Not hugely, “OMG, how could they gut my beautiful baby?” different but it feels less intense through the heart. The opening of spiced, champagne fizzy tea cut through with citrus is still eye rollingly beautiful, yet even this seems just a little flatter and less vivacious.

The heart of Five O`Clock Au Gingembre is still an intricate weaving of ginger, wood, tea and honey. Actually it smells more like sweet honeyed tobacco with that slight dry ache in my throat that tea gives me. It does not seem to have former iterations oomph here in the heart though, as if the scent needs to take a little break to ready it for its now much longer dry down life.

PDI

I spritzed myself yesterday lunch time and still I can smell the soft last vestiges of honey. amber and patchouli. They have harmonised with my person and smell beautiful. I think it may be my top that has held the scent but it is very, very nice.

Five O`Clock Au Gingembre is a very easy wear Serge Lutens. I know for many perfumistas that is not a selling point but I really love to walk through my day smelling beautiful and not excessively weird or grim. Sure, there are times when I choose to be a frag freak but mostly I just want to smell good. A lovely light filled, spicy, interesting, unisex scent that lasts all day? Yes please.

Further reading: Perfume Posse and Bois de Jasmin
Available at LuckyScent, Mecca Cosmetica and at discounters.
Surrender To Chance has samples from $6/ml

What are your favourite easy wear Serge Lutens?
Portia xx

 

Œillet Sauvage by Anne Flipo for L’Artisan Perfumer 2000

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Hard To Find Addicts,

There is a special place in many perfume collectors hearts for the very rare, the discontinued and the earlier iterations. Though I do have some rare birds in the collection it’s about trying the scent for me rather than owning a bottle so a couple of ml will usually satisfy my curiosity. Sometimes though the desire will bite hard and I will move heaven and earth to own the bottle, often laughing at myself for my utter lack of self control.

Today we are looking at a case in point. It was rare as hens teeth, often talked about in hushed, reverential tones and the people who loved it went to any extreme to get some. Then they rereleased it and because it had become less interesting than it originally was people stayed away, now it’s been discontinued again. I bought mine from a mate who often splits, RuthK, and she has told me it’s an older bottle from the original lot! WOO HOO! Today is my first wearing. You get to come along on the olfactory journey with me today. YAY!!

Œillet Sauvage by L’Artisan Perfumer 2000

Œillet Sauvage by Anne Flipo

Œillet Sauvage L'Artisan Parfumeur FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Pepper, Pink pepper
Heart: Carnation, Rose, White lily, Ylang-ylang, Aegean wallflower
Base: Cedar, Musk

Pepper & peony are how Fillet Sauvage opens for me, but pretty quickly the slang fronts up giving a creamy floral warmth. Then quite clearly through that floats carnation, that cool, fresh, powdery feel of carnations against your cheek and in your nose. It contains the light flowers and the sharp undertone. When I press my nose against the fragrance it’s much more realistic carnations, as I move away it becomes a tropical floral. It smells to me like there is some coconut and banana hidden in the depths, and palm leaves.

lartisan oeillet-sauvage carnation PDPPDP

Œillet Sauvage is quite heady through the heart, not loud or bombastic but the scent is warm and spicy. Like a bouquet that has some soft jasmine and tuberose, carnations, yang, some coniferous greenery and palm leaves. Actually, Œillet Sauvage could have been one of the early Annick Goutal scents. It has a very similar proud elegance, sultry and still prim, like there’s a vamp hiding underneath the prettiness. A tigress waiting the perfect time to pounce.

No wonder this was talked of with such reverence. It is absolutely gorgeous. What a shame its gone.

Further reading: One Thousand Scents
eBay sometimes has bottles
Surrender To Chance has modern samples starting at $4.50/ml

What is your discontinued gem? Do you love carnation?
Portia xx

Replacing Discontinued Beauty #1

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Post by AF Beauty

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Hello loves.

If you’ve been keeping up with me, you’ll recall one of my last posts was about discontinued products – the love of having known them, and the pain of them being gone.

To this end, I have been searching for a replacement of my daily cleanser, the Body Shop cleansing gel. The key for me, was that this gel wasn’t a gel in the traditional sense – it was an oily gel that melted away make up and turned to a milky texture on contact with water leaving the skin feeling perfectly soft and clean – but not stripped and not greasy.

Replacing Discontinued Beauty #1

Body Shop + Soap and Glory

Body Shop CAMOMILE SUMPTUOUS CLEANSING BUTTER

Body Shop

When the SA at the Body Shop staggered me with the announcement of discontinuance she offered me a replacement product, the Camomile Sumptuous Cleansing Butter. This is a good product. I’m not overly disappointed. It comes in a flat container the size of a large coaster and the product inside is a solid that looks like a pale candle – and the texture isn’t overly different either. I don’t know what the intention is, in terms of how they expect you to dispense the product, so I’ve innovated and basically use my thumb backwards to scoop out an amount. The problem with this is that it’s best guess – I’ve no idea what amount they actually intend for use.
Once applied it melts down relatively well – probably the only downside is that creating the soft oiliness of an easy cleanser is a little bit difficult, not insurmountable – it does dissolve, it removes make up and cleans off easily, imitating the milky texture of its predecessor. As I like things that smell nice, this is also a positive, the smell is pleasant and light. Once washed off, the feeling on the skin is clean and soft – all in all a decent substitute. The only other thing to note is it says the product is suitable for contact lens wearers. As I don’t wear lenses, I don’t know exactly what that means – but I do know that it stings my eyes a bit and is quite uncomfortable – but really I just need to take more care!

Soap And Glory The Ultimelt Deep Purifying Facial Hot Cloth CleanserAmazon

The second product I’ve tested is from Soap and Glory and is called The Ultimelt. This comes as part of a cleansing “package” as it comes with it’s own muslin cleaning cloth. Although I’ve used it with both muslin and just a regular flannel, the difference isn’t that much to me. The product is not overly dissimilar to the original Body Shop Gel, perhaps thicker and more like a cream than a gel – but it melts down very quickly and has a lovely texture and removes my makeup.

This also turns milky on contact with water and washes off well. Probably my only criticism is the strength of the lavender that is contained in the product – it is a lovely smell but it is very strong, probably a little stronger than I’d choose. But the product is a good replacement for my Body Shop original, albeit a little more difficult to source in Australia.

These two were the nearest to the Body Shop Gel that I could find, but in searching for a replacement I’ve also tested two oil cleansers – I’ll review these in the next post – so keep an eye out – and if you’re interested in an oil based cleanser, hold off before heading out to purchase!

Until next time, AF x

 

Bal A Versailles by Jean Desprez 1962

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Post by Portia

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Heya Crew,

Last year Bal A Versailles was discontinued. It was quite a shock because I thought it was one of those fabulous fragrances that would go on forever. Sadly no. So obviously I went crazy buying new and old and now have quite a hoard. PHEW!

Bal A Versailles by Jean Desprez 1962

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Rosemary, orange blossom, mandarin orange, cassia, jasmine, rose, neroli, bergamot, Bulgarian rose, lemon
Heart: Sandalwood, patchouli, lilac, orris root, vetiver, ylang-ylang, lily-of-the-valley, leather
Base: Tolu balsam, amber, musk, benzoin, civet, vanilla, cedar, resins

Why did I feel the need to grab loads? Is Bal A Versailles an incredible fragrance, even still after multiple reformulations, IFRA challenges and a clearly dwindling need to stay incredible?

Well, I didn’t merely buy up new, I also scanned the eBay pages and peoples documents. It became a little bit of an obsession.

So I have told of my using Mum’s miniature Bal A Versailles parfum on the Barbies as a kid. The smell seems to have been with me on and off throughout my life. Comfortable and warm, its richness and plush glamour offset by the very mundane daily sniffings of it through the years. I have hazy recollections of smelling it on my Mum while we’d be sharing the couch and watching TV companionably after dinner or the golf/tennis on a weekend (me bored to death but happy to be hanging with my Mum) when I would make us sandwiches and either milkshakes or coffee depending on season.

Bal A Versailles Jean Desprez Chateau_de_Versailles WikiMediaWikiMedia

Then later in life to rediscover its beauty in a 4ml vintage parfum. Moving forward to recently when my mate Scott arrives some days lierally bathed in the radiance of Bal A Versailles and then we do office work and go to the various errands that need doing with me awash in his massive sillage.

How does Bal A Versailles smell? Big, fun, over the top. It’s a grand high kitchen sink fragrance that is to scent what Phil Spectre’s Wall Of Sound was to music. Think Tina Turner’s River Deep, Mountain High or The Ronettes’ Be My Baby. A cacophony of fruit and flowers underpinned by resins, woods and animalics. Nothing smells quite like it but I sometimes get Tabu, Aromatics Elixir and Dia mixed up with it when I smell them on other people. Nope, they’re not the same but they all have a similar sillage in dry down.

Is it a Must Try vintage? Probably not. Am I sad to see it discontinued? Yes, there was a place for Bal A Versailles but clearly it wasn’t selling enough to continue.

Bal A Versailles Jean Desprez Réception_du_Grand_Condé_à_Versailles WikipediaWikipedia

Further reading: MuseInWoodenShoes, Australian Perfume Junkies and ThePerfumePosse
Beauty Encounter has a range od EdT and Parfume
SurrenderToChance has all sorts starting at $3/ml

What vintage do you hoard? Do you have a bal A Versailles story?
Portia xxx

FAREWELL Badgley Mischka FAREWELL

Hey there Peeps!

In honour of the recent discontinuation of the Badgley Mischka fragrance line I thought I would take a reminiscent look at the original in parfum form. While finding the EdP too sweet, tooth achingly sweet, I was surprised at my reaction to the parfum.

Badgley Mischka by Richard Herpin for Badgley Mischka 2006

Badgley Mischka Badgley Mischka FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Chinese cassia, Peach, Red berries
Heart: Jasmine, Osmanthus, Peony
Base: Amber, Caramel, Musk, Patchouli, Sandalwood

The bottle has been mocked but I quite liked it. Looking, as Tania Sanchez says, like “a set designer’s idea of a classy bottle, with a metal nameplate making it look like an executive paperweight” if you want to be mean and snarky, or looking very streamlined and 80s elegant if you like it. The Badgley Mischka Parfum comes in a cool square silver-tone column, it’s heavy and cold to the touch. Picking it up I get a thrill of luxutry, even though I bought my bottle pretty cheaply and it came with a refill.

How does Badgley Mischka smell? It’s a tart, sweet juicy explosion that is a bit like a tropical fruit punch leaning heavily on the mango and apricot nectars with a lovely fizzy champagne undercurrent. The flowers, when they arrive, are second fiddle to fruit but add a lovely dewy green, sappy freshness. They are a side note on my skin because already the sweet creamy base is coming through creating a fruity caramel melange. Imagine nougat with fruit instead of almonds, that’s the vibe for me.

Badgley Mischka Badgley Mischka Champagne punch cocktail HeraldHeuser PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

It has been said that Badgley Mischka is the grown up fruitchouli and I can see where that has come from. It is an elegant version of a lot of other fragrances on the market and if I wanted something to push the limits of my fruit craving if I didn’t already have Badgley Mischka my choice would be Byredo’s Pulp. What I do tend to reach for more often and vaguely in the same ballpark is Liberte by Cacharel, using sizzling citrus instead of the peach (which reads mango/apricot nectar on me). If you like the original Miss Dior Cherie, Angel or any of the popular fruitchouli genre then this could hit your hot spot. To be honest I think that Angel did it so effectively and with so much panache that most of the wannabes are a pale imitation, Badgley Mischka parfum is very nice though and I’m on my second 15ml so that gives you some idea.

Badgley Mischka Badgley Mischka Spring2011 Maegan Tintari FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy and Bois de Jasmin
SweetBabyPerfumePlus has EdP and Parfum still available
Surrender To Chance has EdP samples starting at $3/ml

Did you ever wear Badgley Mischka? Are you able to do sticky sweet fruits and booze?
Portia xx

Nature by Yves Rocher 1993

Hiya Vintage Vixens!

My mate and fellow APJ contributor Ainslie Walker gave me this decant a while ago and I have only now grabbed it out and spritzed it on my skin. Sadly it’s been discontinued and I can see a few pieces on eBay but everywhere else seems sold out. How lucky I feel to have been given a chance to wear this green beauty, you may get the chance too……

Nature by Yves Rocher 1993

Nature Yves Rocher FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords in one line:
Freesia, Jasmine, Lily-of-the-valley, Mandarin, Peppermint leaf, Rose, Daphne, Cedar

Stark green, galbanum and a very regal peppermint bouquet. Though I can smell flowers they are a crystalline spiky arrangement, beautiful and angular. Sadly this opening is brief and suddenly the whole fragrance changes to a warm, spicy green wood. WOW! That was totally unexpected. Suddenly Nature is an elegant and cozy fragrance with whispers of jasmine wending their way through the galbanum and a lovely sweet spicy rose makes her appearance.

 Nature Yves rocher flower_woman annemaria48 DeviantArtPhoto Stolen DeviantArt

To my nose there are some slightly feral undertones here like a just past clean armpit, not yet stinky but warmed through a bit of heat and exertion. Wrapped up with the rest of the notes it gives interesting dimension and depth.

I have to give this sample away, if I wear it even one more time my life will end up in a chronic search for this fabulous fragrance. Nature is beautiful, unusual and really interesting. Yves Rocher often surprises me.

Portia xx

Nature GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x Nature by Yves Rocher (left from my own gift from Ainslie)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us a favorite green fragrance, in nature or perfumery

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 28th May 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Thuesday 2nd June 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Australian Jasmine Awards to be DISCONTINUED

NEWS to hand this week. A very sad day for Australian Fragrance Journalism. We are so glad that our very own Ainslie Walker is a Jasmine Award Winner and hoped that some others in the crew could claim like status. Maybe we should start our own Awards APJ, what do you think?
Portia xx

Australian Jasmine Awards to be DISCONTINUED

PRESS RELEASE

January 2015

JASMINE AWARDS TO BE DISCONTINUED

After 10 years of recognising Excellence in Journalism about Fragrance, a decision has been made to discontinue the Australian Jasmine Awards.

Over the past decade, the Jasmine Awards have recognised very creative and distinctive fragrance features and articles from some of the Industry’s most respected journalists. While highly supported in years gone by, changes in the media landscape obligate a new direction
and a refreshed approach to fragrance communication strategies.

Ainslie Walker Jasmine Award 2014#4 cover

Ainslie Walker Jasmine Award 2014#1

The Australian Fragrance industry would like to thank all the former entrants and generous sponsors for their support and contribution to the success of the Jasmine Awards over many years. The industry will continue to work very actively and directly with the Beauty Media and Supporters from print, online and social media, as it always has, to promote the wonderful world of fragrance
and its unique properties for consumers.

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