Khanbaliq by Enrico Buccella for Sigilli 2013

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Portia

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Hello lovers of Underrated Fragrances,

Somehow Sigilli has slipped through the cracks. The fragrances mainly come from the early 2000s but Khanbaliq was released in 2013, it’s the most modern offering from the house and not all of the fragrances are available on the Sigilli website anymore.

Jin and I discovered the brand in Venice on our first big holiday together. There is a maze of shops behind the Piazza San Marco and somewhere in there is an extremely well stocked little perfumery, run by two sisters. I purchased Pyrgos at that time but since have wished that I grabbed a couple of others.

Khanbaliq by Sigilli 2013

Khanbaliq by Enrico Buccella

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bitter orange, ginger, cinnamon, coriander
Heart: Cloves, plum, fir, pine tree, peony
Base: Peony, violet, ambergris

Spicy oranges and a slightly bitter chocolate smell. Pine and my nose is telling me patchouli, a breathy and earthy smelting that could be the ambergris. A weird dissonant herbaceous green and mentholated woodiness wars with the citrus and fruits. It’s an interesting fragrant contrapuntal effect. Unusual without being challenging, straight through the heart.

PDI

 

My surprise in Khanbaliq is that while projection is not enormous it is still very good at changing the smell around me. It also fills the room when I leave and return. Insidious, it seems to march off my skin and try to fragrantly populate whatever area i’m in.

A really good nod to some older fragrances. Breathy indole, some animals and a beautiful bouquet tempered by greenery. I am surprised there are no white flowers mentioned because Khanbaliq gives the feeling they are in there somewhere.  Though the nod is to vintage I feel that it may be the clarion call of a style we are about to see i the fragrant world. A return to having some ass in our fragrances.

WikiMedia

According to Wikipedia: Khanbaliq (or Dadu) was the capital of the Yuan dynasty, the main center of the Mongol Empire founded by Kublai Khan in what is now Beijing.

First In Fragrance has €95/100ml
Surrender To Chance have samples from $3.50/ml

Tuberosa by Enrico Buccella for Les Voiles Depliees 2013(?)

Hiya Fragrance Feinds,

You may remember my post about Michael & my time at First In Fragrance and how much fun we had, how welcoming they were and how much stuff we bought. It was a wonderful couple of days and we couldn’t have smelled more if we tried. Believe me, we tried!

First In Fragrance 2014 #8Beate, the most wonderful, warm and clever lady.  SO knowledgeable.

By the end my nose was broken, completely burned out. Today’s fragrance was one I tried after complete and utter burnout, it sang to me through my anosmia and filled me with joy.

Tuberosa by Enrico Buccella for Les Voiles Depliees 2013(?)

Tuberosa Les Voiles Depliees FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange, neroli
Heart: Tuberose
Base: Amber, patchouli

From the man who brought us the Cerchi Nell’Acqua and Sigilli lines and created Alambar for Laboratorio Olfattivo comes his newest line Les Voiles Depliees. A sensibly priced range that comes in blocky, sleek, modern, funky 50ml bottles. The bottles are not beautiful nor particularly comfortable to hold, and the labels are less than glamorous too with no company name just the fragrance. It all seems like the prototype has been put out on the sale racks, I feel something decidedly unfinished about the whole experience.

I tell you what though, take the fat, square plastic lid off and give yourself a squirt. Just one will be enough. And SWEET! This is the loveliest soapy orange that I’ve ever smelled, there is a lolly-ish tinge to it too that reminds me of pink musk sticks and a synthetic squeal that makes me think of hairspray. I am smiling while sitting here typing. Having worn Tuberosa for about an hour tonight already I am well into the tuberose heartland, it’s super sweet and still green, there is a run your finger down a daffodil leaf, sappy green-ness that is both waxyTuberosa Les Voiles Depliees Tuberose Wikipedia and verdantly lush. This tuberose is fun and flirty with a sensual warmth floating through the heart. Cleaner than I usually like, not a lot of breath or bed head, and wearable without ruining dinner.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Longevity is great, even on my usually scent hungry skin I’m getting over 5 hours fully fragrant. Nice journey, though the patchouli is so clean I hardly even notice it, no I don’t notice it at all unless there’s a smidge hiding beneath the amber which isn’t a large player either. Tuberosa is a white flower highlight fragrance, not a soliflor because there is a byplay between the tuberose and orange, I also get some lovely banana reminders (like those banana lollies) and whispers of other tropical fruits.

I’m pretty sure that Tuberosa is built around aromachemicals with only a very few naturals or isolates mixed through but still it is pretty, fun and totally wearable. I layered it after a good couple of hours with Chillum by La Via Del Profumo and together they were a fabulous match. All the dirt and raunch that has been removed was back with a vengeance. AWESOME!

First In Fragrance has €60/50ml and samples

Have you tried the line? Do you know any of Enrico Buccella’s work? Does any of it stand out for you?
Please chat with me, I love to read your views.
Portia xx

 

Athunis by Enrico Buccella for Sigilli 2010

Hey Hey Happy Huffers,

Earlier this year Jin and I travelled through Europe meeting some fabulous perfumistas along the way. One of those was Birgit from Olfactoria’s Travels who loaded me down with a multitude of samples. This is one from that extremely daunting because it’s so enormously FULL box. I decanted the 2ml manufacturers dab vial into a spritzer for more realistic testing. I have a FB of another of the Sigilli line, Pyrgos, which is made around the scented remnants in vessels recently unearthed at an archaeological site, very interesting and we’ll be reviewing it here soon.

Athunis by Sigilli 2010

Athunis is said to be named after the Etruscan god of beauty.

Athunis Sigilli FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cedar
Heart: Java vetiver, cedar
Base: Java vetiver, musk.

If you like your fragrance woody and smoky, herbal, slightly bitter and earthy then this could be the one for you. The woody opening is like being at a lumber yard after everyone has gone home, you can smell the fresh sawdust, the timbers both green and fully dried, the machinery cooling and the very last whiff of humanity as the sun goes down cooling everything. When the initial blast of wood dies down I find myself in earthy country, humus rich compost and garden soil, still woody but more interesting. The smokiness comes and goes, sometimes it’s an incense style smoke other times it’s a wood fire crackling warmly, not intrusive but pleasantly washing a patina over the woods themselves. Lastly, many hours later, as a change from the earthy, resinous, woodsiness there is a soft musk that is quite human, clean but not freshly washed, that works beautifully alongside whats left of the woods and then gone.

Athunis lumber yard TapHardWoodsPhoto Stolen TapHardWoods

This is called a masculine and it skews that way decidedly but I think that any woman who likes a woody fragrance would smell incredible if she gave Athunis a shot. I find it much like Tam Dao but more powerful, less intricate and with excellent lifespan, I would not have picked this for myself based on the notes but have really enjoyed wearing Athunis and will definitely use up this decant. Will I spring for FB? There is an opening for something so outrageously woody in my collection and I would probably wear it, TSO Jin would be ALL OVER THIS though and I may just grab him a bottle.

Athunis stick-incense DivineAncestryPhoto Stolen DivineAncestry

Further reading: Scent For Thought
I could find other Sigilli samples but not this one
First In Fragrance has 100ml €90

Do you have a woody favourite perfume? Have you tried the Sigilli line?
Portia xx