Dama Koupa by Spyros Drosopoulos for Baruti 2016

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Portia

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Hey Independent Perfume Peeps,

I got a bunch of stuff a while back from a split group I’m in. For some reason todays fragrance didn’t get sniffed. I’m not quite sure why. Anyway, in the words of Pretty Woman, Big Mistake.

Baruti

Spyros the Baruti perfumer and (I think) owner writes:

THIS IS WHAT MY DREAMS SMELL LIKE
I MAKE PERSONAL AND IMMEDIATE PERFUMES
DECEPTIVELY PLAYFUL
ROOTED IN THE UNCONSCIOUS
PERPLEXING THE SENSES
LIKE KALEIDOSCOPIC EXPLOSIONS OF BEAUTY
THEY CAN BLOW YOU AWAY

SPYROS (AMSTERDAM 2014)

Dama Koupa by Baruti 2016

Dama Koupa by Spyros Drosopoulos

Fragrantica

Baruti gives these featured accords:
Bitter almonds, Grappa, Tonka bean, Vanilla, Cocoa, Iris, Osmanthus, Musk, Amber, White woods, Beeswax, Fir Balsam Absolute.

Before we even start this review I want to tell you that I have already been in touch with Spyros at Baruti and bought at full retail a bottle of Dama Koupa. The website was playing silly buggers so I wrote to him direct and got a response within hours, he offered to send me a PayPal invoice and get my fragrance out to me ASAP. YAY! On its way.

Dry, nutty, boozy, sprinkled with sugar that seems to accentuate the lack of sweetness rather than lightening Dama Koupa up. Woodsy, like sawdust with this completely unexpected feeling of desiccated florals. You know those almond biscuits? Like the first unsweet bite into one of those….. but not. Actually, through the heart I get something grain-ish, like barley broth.

Dama Koupa by Baruti Cabin-Summer MaxPixelPDI

I know other people are getting the scent of Macaroons, the original coconut meringue confection, but my nose is getting something much more masculine, outdoorsy and mountainous.

Longevity is excellent and I smell Dama Koupa almost exactly as it went on hours later. Who could wear it? I think anyone with a sense of olfactory adventure because where I am getting manliness others get this bakery style gourmand.

WikiCommons

Further reading: Persefume and Fragrance Daily
Baruti has 92,56/30ml and ships worldwide

Are gourmands in general enticing or repulsive to you? Do you know another gourmand that skews dry and masculine?
Portia xx

Yes I Do v I Don’t Swallow GIVEAWAY WINNERS

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Portia

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Woo Hoo!
Thanks to Bronwyn from Gascoigne & King, the Australian ELdO importers and distributors.

Thanks also to all who entered.
Portia xx

Yes I Do v I Don’t Swallow GIVEAWAY WINNERS

 

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Orange blossom, lily-of-the-valley, patchouli, jasmine, aldehydes, amber, cacao pod, marshmallow, musk

Etat Libre d’Orange has €85/50ml (Shipping to the world only €15)

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 3 winners who will receive:
1 x 10ml decant Yes I Do
1 x 10ml decant I Don’t Swallow

P&H Anywhere in the world

 

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Wednesday 21st June 2017 10pm Australian EdsT
Winners were chosen by random.org

Anna-Maria

Hage

Kandice

The winners will have till Wednesday 28th June 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Suffolk Lavender by Julie Masse for Shay & Blue 2013

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Kate Apted

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Hi APJ,

I hear a lot about scents being ‘office friendly’; meaning the scent is likely to receive a warmer reception to a wider range of people than others. I am sure you have a list of scents you consider safe to wear at any given event or location. I have given a substantial deal of thought to what I deem safe to wear to work, and it has taken a great deal of trial and error.

I am a truck mechanic and what I wear has to fit a number of criteria. I will not wear a strongly feminine scent, as a lot of our customers and my co-workers are male and I am not too keen to leave a lingering, smouldering scent in the cabin of a truck. My scent also has to rise above the strong environmental scents competing for my attention, yet it has to be markedly different so to not prevent me from smelling dangerous odours, such as LPG leaks and welding fires.

I found the very scent that has become my work daily: Shay & Blue’s Suffolk Lavender. I am particularly partial to lavender that plays the starring role, but isn’t a soliflor. I find the lavender in Suffolk Lavender isn’t sleep inducing, but helps to ground and calm me, while being inherently interesting.

Suffolk Lavender by Julie Masse for Shay & Blue 2013

Finding my ideal work scent

Suffolk Lavender Shay & Blue London FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lavender
Heart: Incense, melon
Base: Praline, musk, pine tree

This opens with a salty lavender. This very linear, moderate projection stays for a good hour. The lavender is quite dry, but full bodied and slightly creamy. I spray it on my torso, because with body heat, I get an oomph of scent that wafts up in a way I don’t get from wrist sprays alone. I have not tried this during summer, but I am guessing from its response to heat, it will be adaptable to the temperature without losing its character.

After about two hours, Suffolk Lavender slowly becomes a skin scent, but the deeper incense notes make their appearance. Like a song with moderate volume that has deep, booming base notes that make the song seem louder than the volume indicates, this scent does the same with the incense. So, it isn’t until lunch time, about 5-6 hours later, that I need to think of reapplying.

WikiCommons

What makes Suffolk Lavender noteworthy, for me at least, is while it uses quite dark and deep notes, the overall composition has the trademark Shay & Blue light handedness. The scent transitions so gently from salty lavender to a mild incense creamy lavender and then tails off to a faintly woody wheat bag type lavender.

I do not get any of the fruit or sweetness this is purported to have. It tends to sit with more pronounced lavender on my eldest son, and heads straight to the incense notes after ten minutes. I love the fact Suffolk Lavender is completely unisex. I can pack this away on trips and know a single bottle will suffice.

David Jones Australia has a limited Shay & Blue range.
Shay & Blue ships to almost the entire world, not ANZ though

What is your work environment like? And what factors guide your scent choices?

Kate XXXoX

Don’t Get Me Wrong Baby, Yes I Do by Antoine Maisondieu for Etat Libre d’Orange 2016

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Portia

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Heya Frag Hags,

Recently I was over at my mate Bronwyn’s house. She has so much going on with new Gascoigne & King candles, a brand new concept I can’t tell you about and the exciting release in Australia of ELdO’s Don’t Get Me Wrong Baby, Yes I Do. There are plenty of rumours flying about but I haven’t heard anything definitive about what’s happened to the original but perusing the Etat Libre d’Orange site it has been taken off the shopping list.

Don’t Get Me Wrong Baby, Yes I Do by Etat Libre d’Orange 2016

Don’t Get Me Wrong Baby, Yes I Do by Antoine Maisondieu

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Orange blossom, lily-of-the-valley, patchouli, jasmine, aldehydes, amber, cacao pod, marshmallow, musk

The note list has not changed between the old and new but I’m wondering if they have tweaked the formula at all. The good news is I have a bottle of both here so I can do a fragrant throwdown. Let’s do it together.

Yes I Do v I Don’t Swallow

Firstly, the new bottle is so bloody pretty. Shimmery, like an old fashioned nail polish. Match that with the gold sticker and it’s all very budget line from a high fashion company, aimed at the young. It feels very Love Moschino, Juicy Couture or Lauren Ralph Lauren. The fun, affordable brands aiming directly at the market I imagine this will also hit.

Both open with a sheer soft focus Lily of the Valley (LotV), sweetness added by the marshmallow and a very youthful, clean jasmine/orange blossom. If you like your LotV Diorissimo style then you’ll be disappointed. Here we have a much less strident rendition, no screech, just pillowed clouds. The two fragrances smell pretty similar to me, not much change. They may have added, tweaked and subtracted some stuff but it hasn’t changed the ultimate ride. I do like spritzing from the new bottle better though because it’s so fun.

Personally, I don’t get a lot of the oft hyped funk that this scent was purporting to display. All I get is a bit of plasticky patchouli, some extra depth and warmth coming through towards the end but I’m still smelling soft wafts of LotV which keeps the whole scent fresh, youthful and prim.

Sephora will have Yes I Do in Australia
Etat Libre d’Orange has €85/50ml (Shipping to the world only €15)

Want to check the difference for yourself? I’d love to hear if you think it has changed.

Yes I Do v I Don’t Swallow GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 3 winners who will receive:
1 x 10ml decant Yes I Do
1 x 10ml decant I Don’t Swallow

P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us which name sounds best to you?

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Wednesday 21st June 2017 10pm Australian EdsT and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Wednesday 28th June 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

APSU by Ulrich Lang GIVEAWAY WINNERS

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Portia.

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YAY APJ!

Thanks for getting involved. Let’s see who our winners are.
Portia xx

APSU by Ulrich Lang GIVEAWAY WINNERS

APSU Ulrich Lang FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Green leaves, coriander, violet leaf, bergamot
Heart: White tea, jasmine, water lily, pink pepper, iris
Base: White musk, cedar, amber, olibanum

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 3 winners who will receive:
1 x APSU by Ulrich Lang sample
P&H Anywhere in the world

 

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 18th June 2017 10pm Australian EdsT
Winners were chosen by random.org

Stephen Khoo

Lena

Ellen M

The winners will have till Sunday 25th June 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

APSU by Ulrich Lang 2016

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Portia

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Hey All,

I was really excited when today’s fragrance came out but it’s taken me this long to get my bloody sniff on it. I love Ulrich and when I saw APSU in a split recently I went ahead and grabbed a decant.

APSU by Ulrich Lang 2016

APSU Ulrich Lang FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Green leaves, coriander, violet leaf, bergamot
Heart: White tea, jasmine, water lily, pink pepper, iris
Base: White musk, cedar, amber, olibanum

You want to wear green fragrance but are bored by the galbanum rich CHANEL No 19, Silences, Niki de Saint Phalle and Vert Boheme? You have had the green grass/peony/cucumber scents beyond your ability to bear?

I think I’ve found the remedy. Here we have green leaves like soft pulpy hydrangea and the bitter snap of camellia leaves, they are glassy smoothed by the cool powdery green of coriander seeds. The heart is a floral bouquet, dewy and satin soft against your cheek given a zing with pepper. The layers unfold slowly and give you time to savour each new facet. To notice the changes though you need to be paying real attention because they happen completely under the radar. If you’re living your day there will be moments where you are reminded you’ve got fragrance on because it has shape shifted.

Ulrich Lang

APSU is never a big scent, once the initial extravagance has blown off you get a beautiful low level crisp green scent that works beautifully here as autumn moves to winter but I think it would be wonderfully cooling in the hot summer months too. Refreshing to the very end and unusual enough to keep even the most dedicated perfumistas nose sniffing.

Further reading: Persolaise and Colognoisseur
First In Fragrance has €95/100ml + Samples
Beauty Habit has $125/100ml

So here’s your chance to try it……

APSU by Ulrich Lang GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 3 winners who will receive:
1 x APSU by Ulrich Lang sample
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please go to Ulrich Lang<<jump and find ONE INGREDIENT and name both ingredient & fragrance. (No DOUBLE UPS)

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 18th June 2017 10pm Australian EdsT and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Sunday 25th June 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Vanille Orient by Jean-Claude Astier + Geoffrey Nejman for M. Micallef 2012

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Portia

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Hey there Frag Heads,

You may remember a few weeks ago I bought a bottle of M Micallef Vanille Marine? Well looking through my decants this week I discovered 5ml of another in the line. Because I loved the other so much I’d basically ignored todays and so I thought we could look at it together today.

Vanille Orient by M. Micallef 2012

Vanille Orient by Jean-Claude Astier + Geoffrey Nejman

Vanille Orient M. Micallef FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Spices, vanilla, sandalwood, amber, musk

Opening is vanilla, quickly tempered by sweet citrus and warm resins. There is some cardamom or something equally green/smooth floating around and a smokiness on a low level. A simple creamy amber, very easy wear, is the heart. Nothing ground breaking or distinctive but it does smell very luxurious.

I keep smelling myself and thinking that Vanille Orient transports me to an expensive European hotel lobby in winter. Resinous, woody, balsams and a clean musk with a faint reminder of long dead cigarettes and coffee. It’s a clean, warm, comfortable scent that would make a terrific candle.

Vanille Orient M. Micallef istanbul tpsdave pixabayPDI

I don’t know if you ever go to art galleries but there is a certain slim line 40+ woman who wears a black wool polo neck jumper, boot cut jeans or a tailored skirt and comfortable boyishly styled shoes. Often her greying and kept natural hair is cut in a modern super short bob and she accessorises with white gold. I have come a ross these wonderful women and they will chat about the art sometimes. They LOVE this kind of amber. A happy middle ground between the sweet, bakery style and the bitch tar leather ambers.

This wears resinous rather than sweet, is dry and warm with no animalics or darkness. A 100% comfortable amber that smells very good. Excellent for wafting in the cool halls of galleries.

Vanille Orient M. Micallef the-louvre unsplash pixabayPDI

Further reading: Notable Scents and Muse In Wooden Shoes
Feeling Sexy Australia has $245/100ml with FREE Australian Shipping

What do you wear to go to the gallery?
Portia xx