Granville by Francois Demachy for Dior Collection Privée 2010

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Post by Portia

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Howdy Fragrant Family,

Years ago now I bought 10ml of Granville in a split from AndreaW. It was forgotten for a while and then rediscovered and drained to the dregs. As soon as I was finishing my decant the damn thing got DCd so I was lamenting its loss and resigned to never having a bottle to spritz.

On a whim in South Korea last week I asked the DIOR SA if she remembered Granville and she produced a tester saying that she had one bottle left in stock, 250ml at about AUD$100 more expensive than Sydney prices (because S Korea!). We thanked her for her time, spritzed Granville lavishly and went on our merry way. Then, because I was floating in swathes of its green beauty and a bit sad that I would never own it Jin said we should go back and get it next day, he even offered to buy me the bottle (I know right, but I wouldn’t let him). So we went back and grabbed it and I’m so thrilled, it’s a perfect mid-season beauty.

Granville by Dior Collection Privée 2010

Granville by Francois Demachy

La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Granville Dior FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Basenotes gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, mandarin, thyme
Heart: Gorse, pine, rosemary
Base: Pepper, sandalwood, woodsy notes

A smooth and rich cologne in EdT built by Francois Demachy to be both an interesting twist on an old trope and a new, fun, pretty masculine for perfumistas of both sex. It’s perfect mid season wear while the sun is shining and in the chill of the evening. Grenville is cool green, bright and slightly fizzy like a Limoncello with a hint of salt. The sweet and tart at the same time opening wafts gently into more green and herbaceousness that warms and dries towards dry down with the pepper crackling and creamy woods.

granville-dior-morgan-davis-limoncello flickrFlickr

Never a poisonous green, always a gentle, plush, refined greenness; austere yet approachable. Said to be done in homage to the wind at Christian Dior’s childhood home, the greenness of the area, the herb garden and the exuberance of his youth, I get it. Granville is all of this and more. A mellow green with fizz and cream.

Lasting well into 3 hours as fragrant I was surprised to find Granville still smellable on the morning as I wake up, a whispered wash of citrus and wood.

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and BOTO
Still available at some DIOR stand alone stores
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

Do you have a favourite DIOR Privee? Which one? Why? Did you try DIOR Granville?
Portia xx

Egoiste by Jacques Pole + François Demachy for Chanel 1990

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Post by Claire Vukcevic

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Hello APJ peeps!

My husband came to me the other day and told me that he’d seen Burberry Touch for Men for €20 at a local pharmacy and was thinking of getting it. I held my hand up in the universal sign language of “Lemme Stop You There”, remembering the last time he bought perfume on his own (Dior Sauvage, oh the horror, the HORROR), and glumly handed him over a big bottle of Egoiste. “You wear men’s perfumes?” he asked me, confused.

Egoiste by Chanel 1990

Egoiste by Jacques Pole + François Demachy

egoiste-chanel-fragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Coriander, Mahogany, Mandarin, Rosewood
Heart: Carnation, Rose, Cinnamon
Base: Amber, Leather, Sandalwood, Tobacco, Vanilla

Yes, husband. Yes, I do. When perfumes are as good as Egoiste, women will purloin them and claim them as their own. He doesn’t even know about my Dior Homme Intense habit yet.

Anyway, the great thing about my act of supreme generosity is that Egoiste now lives in our downstairs loo, where it gets splashed on with gay abandon onto the husband, me (whenever I go in there), and my two children upon whom I use it as a body spray. The very act of bringing it out into the light has meant that we are all currently luxuriating in the fabulousity of Egoiste.

egoiste-chanel-jeff_golden-family-feet-flickrFlickr

Egoiste opens with a tight little nubbin of spice, its mandarin orange oil, cinnamon, rose, and lemon notes swirling together to form an effervescent coca-cola accord that never fails to lift the spirits. Sometimes the rose becomes very big, sometimes I barely notice it, as I think it knits itself into the smooth rosewood and tobacco very cleverly.

The new version is definitely weaker and thinner than how I remember it smelling in the late 1990’s, when I recall it being a big hit with several boyfriends. To my nose, the tobacco has been amped up, and it is the crumbling, dusty sort that can smell a little like earth and dried leaves – similar to the tobacco note in Journey Man.

Thank God, though, that the sandalwood in the drydown is still the rich, sweet, spicy gingerbread sandalwood that I love so much in Bois des Iles and Mona di Orio Vanille. Before I moved from Montenegro to Ireland last summer, I sent all my perfumes on ahead of me (strapped to donkeys, over the Alps), and I found I missed my sandalwoods the most. My Egoiste is therefore a bottle I bought in Montenegro a week before I left, procured solely to give me comfort during that tumultuous time of my life, and I clung to it despite the sweltering 40 degree heat. Of course, reunited with my perfumes back in Ireland, I kind of forgot about Egoiste. Until now.

Longevity is ok – about 4 hours and definitely not as strong or as rich as the older versions. It’s perfect for men AND WOMEN who love big, spicy woods perfumes with a coca cola twang and a creamy drydown. For me, it’s pure cold weather comfort in a bottle.

egoiste-chanel-bureau-of-land-management-blm-winter-bucket-list-11-white-mountains-national-recreation-area-alaska-flickrFlickr

Further reading: What Men Should Smell Like and Bois de Jasmin
CHANEL counters everywhere have Egoiste, go grab a free spritz

What about you guys? Do you wear and love any perfumes from the other side of the gender aisle?

Slán!

Claire

 

Claire also writes for Take One Thing Off

La Colle Noire GIVEAWAY WINNERS

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Post by Portia

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WOO HOO APJ!
Great response for todays giveaway. It’s exciting when a new DIOR gets released.

Let’s see who won,
Portia xx

La Colle Noire GIVEAWAY WINNERS

La Colle Noire DIOR ParfumoParfumo

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
May rose absolute, Ceylonese sandalwood, White musk, Spices, Amber

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 winners who will receive:
1 x sample La Colle Noire (decanted from my sample)
1 x 8ml DIOR Privee manufacturers sample
(Cologne Royal or New Look 1947 – NO you don’t get to choose)
P&H Worldwide

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 22nd May 2016 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

WINNERS markmontanoblogsmarkmontanoblogs

Edward

Ellen M.

CONGRATULATIONS! The winners will have till Thursday 26th May 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

La Colle Noire by François Demachy for DIOR 2016

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Post by Portia

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Hello Fragrant Fumies,

François Demachy has created a new fragrance for the DIOR La Collection Privée line. Cue interest, excitement and some small rejoicing in the perfumista community. Named for Christian Dior’s favourite holiday home in later life: Château de La Colle Noire. So I google translate looked it up and colle can mean mean glue, adhesive or problem. I think something does not add up and if there are any French speakers in the house could they please tell me what it means.

Roses have been back and wearable again in frag circles and the general public since Stella McCartney’s 2003 eponymous radiant rose Stella. Since then we have been bombarded with all the roses that ever and never were. From the darkest, dankest to the shrillingly squeaky clean blow torch editions and yes, I have fallen for a few. Completely and utterly fallen for such luminaries as Mohur by Neela Vermeire, Ballets Rouges by Olympic Orchids, Contradiction by Calvin Klein, Rosa sur Reuse by SOIVOHLE, Midnight Oud by JHaG and in DIOR’s own privet lineup Mitzah and Oud Ispahan (there are more but these without looking).

La Colle Noire by DIOR 2016

La Colle Noire by François Demachy

La Colle Noire DIOR ParfumoParfumo

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
May rose absolute, Ceylonese sandalwood, White musk, Spices, Amber

La Colle Noire opens with a sheer, wet, sharp rose, lightly metallic and already clean musky. My nose gets that soft fluffy feeling of pith and I am surprised theres no citrus, pepper, ivy or blackcurrant mentioned because I get a sharp fruity note in my nose and a dry tickle in my throat that I associate with those four notes. The opening fireworks are over in a couple of minutes and I loose 80% of the heft.

A sweet rose is left behind, sheer, wispy and pretty, bordering on functional or ambient but rising above and floating around me like a rosy zephyr, a dream of roses or of being in the middle of a rose garden in the coolest pale light of morning with only the merest breeze moving the scent to you. Here is a rose like the 2nd run of rose water, lightly warmed and set amongst a harmonious backdrop to murmer quietly around you for hours and hours. Considering how low key La Colle Noire is its longevity is astounding and sillage is very nice too.

La Colle Noire Christian Dior FragranticaFragrantica

La Colle Noire is so perfectly measured and careful that it could easily belong to the CHANEL Exclusives line. It’s beautiful, fragile and a watercolour wash of fragrance. Elegant, under the radar fragrance for someone who wants to smell like money without having to be so gauche as to make a fragrant statement. Also a perfect background scent for someone who knows they have to smell nice but who don’t really like perfume. An amorphous whisper.

Christian Dior Privee line is available in stand alone DIOR stores and large airports + department stores
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3.25/ml

 

giveaway TheTruthAboutMummyTheTruthAboutMummy

La Colle Noire GIVEAWAY

La Colle Noire Christian Dior giveaway 2

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 winners who will receive:
1 x sample La Colle Noire (decanted from my sample)
1 x 8ml DIOR Privee manufacturers sample
(Cologne Royal or New Look 1947 – NO you don’t get to choose)
P&H Worldwide

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged. Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me (portia underscore turbo @ yahoo dot com dot au) so I know.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please tell us a rose fragrance you love, or even hate and need to bitch about.

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 22nd May 2016 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org
The winner will have till Thursday 26th May 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

La Colle Noire Christian Dior giveaway 1

Cuir Cannage by Francois Demachy for Christian Dior 2014

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Post by Portia

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Hiya APJ,

Leather! One of my favourite perfume notes. It took me a while to warm to todays fragrance but now I can’t imagine my collection without it. To be honest, when I first smelled Cuit Cannage I think I missed the point.

Cuir Cannage by Christian Dior 2014

Cuir Cannage by Francois Demachy

Cuir Cannage Christian Dior FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange blossom, ylang-ylang
Heart: Rose, jasmine, iris
Base: Birch, juniper, leather

A sweet, supple leather that has been fragranced in the manufacturers to hide the tannery smells. Comfortable, chic and utterly wearable in warm or cool weather I reach for Cuir Cannage when I want leather but a more floral version. DIOR has provided a perfect bridge between the sweetness of Bottega Veneta original and the dryness of Hermès Cuir d’Ange.

cuir-cannage-dior ingrid-bergman PixabayPixabay

I love the way that initially the leather and orange blossom combine to create a modern take on vintage. A cleaner, less animalic version of some of the old time scents. Only very slightly breathy yet very movie star glam. Finally a lovely creamy, worn leather with hints of the warm body of the wearer. A nod to make up, fur, fine living and unattainable beauty perfection. A hint of the sweet musty breaking down of leather bound books in old libraries.

If you are looking for an outrageous, over the top leather experience like Tauer’s Lonestar Memories then you will be bitterly disappointed. DIOR gives us a smooth and seamless leather interpretation that is so obviously geared towards the upper end of the fragrance market, a spritz and go fragrance that still manages to be interesting and beautiful.

cuir-cannage-dior books PixabayPixabay

Further reading: Persolaise and Colognoisseur
DIOR stores and some larger department stores carry the DIOR La Collection Privée range
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3/ml
What is your favourite leather? Does it ever take you a while to come around to a fragrance?
Portia xx

Patchouli Imperial by Francois Demachy for Christian Dior 2011

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Fragrant Family,

Since we’ve been back from holidays I have spent a little time hunting through the decant/split section of my collection. There is so much choice here, enough for three lifetimes of fragrant addiction that unless I really set out to search the outlying areas things get forgotten. I remember trying today’s fragrance once when I bought this decant and being sadly unimpressed but last night I gave it a spritz before bed and this morning I still smell beautiful. softly tinted with the scent of …..

Patchouli Imperial by Christian Dior 2011

Patchouli Imperial by Francois Demachy

La Collection Couturier Parfumeur Patchouli Imperial Dior for menFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Sicilian mandarin, Calabrian bergamot, Coriander, Indonesian patchouli, cedarwood, sandalwood essence

So I wore Patchouli Imperial again today, all day, and I’ll be wearing it to bed again tonight. In 1.5 days I’ve gone through about 4ml of my 10ml decant. That’s some serious fragrance use. Why? Because suddenly I have fallen madly in love and it’s so absolutely wearable. It was perfect last night as a sleep scent, today while blogging and organising stuff. It was also a winner to go to the physio and shopping afterwards. Then tonight my BFF Kath and I went and ate a WHOLE PEKING DUCK with pancakes, greenery and Hoisin sauce. OMG! I’m so freaking full right now, you have no idea.

Patchouli Imperial DIOR autumn-winter-2016-17-ready-to-wear-show DIORDIOR

How does it smell? Well, the citrus burns off fairly quickly and a waxy, woody, green-but-not patchouli that reminds me of the SJP Lovely patchouli/musk but a little more barber shop styled. The woods are there too but in a just polished retro furniture way. The whole fragrance smells smooth, stylish and uncomplicated; more of a fragrant wash that a loud signature statement.

Patchouli Imperial smells to me like a perfect office scent. It is fragrant but not overbearing, could be quite ambient until you get in really close and realise that freaking amazing almost smell is this person. I could also imagine it haunting someone who smelled it on you afterwards. Doomed to be forever seeking that perfect and unattainable fragrance that was once smelled on this person at work, in a restaurant or at a party. Great fragrance to leave on a lovers sheets too.

Patchouli Imperial DIOR Coincidental Dandy No Rules Britannia Stella Tennant DIOR FlickrFlickr

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Olfactoria’s Travels
Available at DIOR stand alone stores, large department stores and now big airports (ask)
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3.25/ml

Are you a patchouli fan? Which of the DIOR Privé line do you love most?
Portia xx

 

Miss Dior Web Documentary – Episode 1: The fragrance creation behind the scenes

G’Day,

Actually I almost never say G’Day unless I’m using the Aussie card in a gay bar and trying to pick up. I do love it when out in the rural parts of Australia and everyone says it.

So, Jin has a couple of actresses that he really loves and Natalie Portman is one of them. Here she meets perfumer Francois Demachy and he takes her through some of the notes and the behind the scenes fun of creating a fragrance, Miss Dior 2012. I love that they are talking as if it’s a fragrance made for Natalie Portman alone, it adds a very cool side interest.

Miss Dior 2012 FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Even if you hate the bullshit that goes with selling a fragrance this Miss Dior video captures so nicely the lovely face of Natalie Portman.

Enjoy,
Portia xx

Miss Dior Web Documentary

Episode 1: The fragrance creation behind the scenes