Scent Diary: 5.6 – 11.6.2017

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Portia

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Hi APJ,

WOW! What a week of friends, food and fragrance. I can’t believe how much we all got through.

Scent Diary: 5.6 – 11.6.2017

Monday 5:

Good morning sunshine! It was absolutely glorious for our walk today and when we got home I de-flead the pooches.

Very little on the agenda today but I did book my flights for India in September. Going to hang with my last Partner Varun for about 10 days. The plan is to get up to Assam and Darjeeling for alittle adventure, a couple of days in Delhi and some time with his family in Alwar, Rajasthan. Jam packed but it will be fun. I realised we haven’t seen each other in 3 years! Time to go hang. Here’s a pick of us 15 years ago at one of our birthdays.

I’m totally loving my original Lolita Lempicka EdP again today. LOADS of it. Then this afternoon I decided I wanted to keep the purple theme but a new direction so Hermès Brin de Reglisse got a full workout. I freaking love lavender, so cool and calming.

At night Jin & I went to dinner with our besties Kath & Alice. The Balkan Restaurant on Crown St, I have been eating with this family in three or four different locations since 1988. The menu has barely changed in all that time and I usually get the Fillet Mignon, which in Australia and all civilised countries means perfect steak wrapped in bacon and cooked over an open fire BarBQ. Tonight I was not so hungry so I had a little bit of meat off everyone’s plate and a salad. DELICIOUS!

Tuesday 6:

Scott came to help with Office Work today. There wasn’t much to do except the brain numbing receipt naming, invoicing all venues and queens for Turbo, the mail and a few other incidentals. Jin is working tonight so he got us all lunch, dukka on soft pizza and cheese, YUM!

At the Post Office there was my prize from Pia & Nick at We Love To Smell. SO generous, full of fun things.

Had the most fabulous Annick Goutal Musc Nomade bubble bath, followed by Kiehl’s Musk Body Lotion and topped off with enormous amounts of Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur. I am a little musky! YAY!

Tonight for bed I wanted to continue the musks but add some sweetness so I multispritzed Olympic Orchids White Cattleya. its ultra-sweet citrus is backed by vanilla and musk. Just the right side of freaky, and a perfect narcotic fragrance to lead me to the land of nod. Night Night.

Wednesday 7:

Today is wet. Had to use a big umbrella to walk the dogs. I love how clean the world feels while it’s raining and the breeze is so refreshing. Dogs were fine in their winter coats, they look like a couple of yearling colts trotting along. I wore Elie Saab Le Parfum for our ramble, it was perfect, all musky white flowers.

Had a good meeting about a new venue that would like me to produce some stuff for it. The best bit was that the meeting was expedited by my longest friend who I was in kindergarten with and we have remained buddies ever since. We don’t see each other every week but when we do it’s nice and his Mum & mine were great buddies too. I didn’t take a bloody pic. BUM!

Tonight I was feeling a bit like I needed some super sweet crunchy caramel hugging so instead of turning to Jin who is at work I lavishly spritzed the original Guess woman by Marciano.

Fragrantica

Trivia was fun and dinner delicious. I had the grilled chicken with bacon, avocado and hollandaise with chips & salad. Bloody good food and a lovely night at Greystanes Hotel.

These are two of my fave boys from my Wednesday night gig. Razz & Andrew are contractors that drive from the Gold Coast to work in Sydney every few weeks, their boss sometimes comes and his family has joined us too.

These two dogs are so lovely. We walked in the pouring rain three times today and they loved it. Both got soaking wet heads and legs. Each time I had to dry their coats. Night time wander was in torrential rain, bucketing down, it was Biblical. They loved it so much, couldn’t care less. They’re curled up on their inside beds in the lounge room right now with Korean Air blankets on them. SO CUTE!

I’m done for today. More Guess by Marciano and bed.

Thursday 8:

Jin has crashed on the couch after his nightshift. I found him there this morning when I awoke. His happy snores fill the apartment. Morning couch cuddles made the world look even more lovely as I took the dogs for a damp but crystal clear ramble.

There were still ashy, vanilla remnants of my Guess by Marciano this morning. They were such a perfect fit I decided to stay on the sweet side so it became a Guerlain Samsara vintage EdT & parfum morning.

Jin created a brand new meat marinade today. Shallots, Onions, Garlic, Kiwi Fruit, Soy Sauce, Cooking Wine, little Sugar, Sesame Oil and fresh cracked Black Pepper. Pour it over pork neck cut into thin slices, like the Chinese cut meat for take-away. The meat has gone into the marinade, in Tupperware and into the fridge. The whole house smells amazing.

He cooked some and it tastes even better than it sounds. We have dubbed it Shallot Pesto and I wanted to eat it as is but Jin is making it into a stew! Crazy boy.

It’s still raining in Sydney but I was craving icy cool scent so I thought a few spritzes of Cartier: L’Heure Convoiteé II a good choice. It is indeed. Every time I spritz it reminds me of buying it in Prague’s Cartier store, off the main square. It was an expensive purchase and thrilling to be doing it on my first visit to the city. It was Jin and my first holiday together, very happy times to remember. Even now the heady joy of finding him comes flooding back.

Then for work some vintage Fendi EdT, their original fragrance. BIG perfume.

Friday 9:

It’s Friday and Jin is off work. We walked the dogs together this morning, one of my fave things to do together.

I was supposed to be meeting with the Parramatta Council  because I want to start Drag Queen Story Time at the local library. They are into it but we had to postpone for a couple of weeks. I love the idea of bringing diversity to kids.

So I cleaned the house top to bottom. You could eat your dinner out of my toilet right now, though if you’re that hard up I could probably find you a plate. Everything is glistening and the only thing I haven’t done is oil the table. Tomorrow I’ll do it.

Lunch with the sweetest Korean boy, Jacob, from our local Korean store. He is going back to Korea soon and I wanted to take him out for a farewell. He loved it so much that I spoke a few sentences of Korean and he likes to talk English with me. Sweet. I’ll miss his happy face at the shop.

Tonight we had a perfumista dinner at mine. A few mates and a bunch of frags. Jin was out boozing with a work colleague so I filled the house with friends. Instead of cooking I went and got some Arabian chicken with pickles, garlic mayo & chips. Add a few bread rolls, a garden salad & voila, dinner. Everyone was asked to bring a bottle of bubbles and we went through most of them.

TinaG decided to create a Pavlova for dessert and it was freaking sensational. Here she is looking justifiably proud. We ate it up and then were all on a sugar high for fragrances.

Scott stuck around after everyone had gone and we kept on sniffing well past midnight and on to one.

Saturday 10:

Today dawned cool and wet. The thought of getting out of my comfortable bed, with a super warm Jin beside me was not exactly my dream scenario but the dogs will not feed and walk themselves. They did have to wait an hour after their normal routine though. I am a selfish man.

Went to lunch for my mate Nikki’s birthday. It was excellent fun. We laughed and reminisced. By the end it was three cackling hens. Perfect Saturday afternoon.

Following lunch I felt the need for a little warmth so a Robert Piguet Bandit bubble bath ensued and a liberal spritzing of the original Trussardi Donna, with it’s faux white croc bottle and greyhound insignia in leather. All about the leather chypres this afternoon.

Aunty Tracey arrived this evening and Jin did Korean BarBQ at home. She’s staying with us for the week and hopefully we will go visit the rest of the Aunties while she’s here.

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Sunday 11:

Walking the dogs this morning I was confronted by this tree that seems to have coloured up overnight. Every other deciduous tree on the block is almost bare but this lone liquidambar is only just turning. Beautiful.

Aunty Tracey is rugged up in the beautiful patchwork quilt created for me by Lyndall Woods. She’s feeling the cold further from the equator and the quilt is exactly enough to keep her toasty as she watches Netflix. Her show of choice is 13 Reasons Why.

For work I decided to go Old School so it’s vintage Guerlain Mitsouko EdT & parfum all the way.

 

Now it’s your turn. How was your week? Tell me anything fun or fragrant you did or wore, maybe you have a new purchase or refund an old love. Please tell us your story in the comments, we love to read what’s going on in your world.
Portia xx

Cookie Queen & Blondeswunder in London 2017

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Blondeswunder
Val the Cookie queen
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Hey APJ Family, Happy Tuesday!

As soon as Mummy and I landed in Brexit we met up with the lovely and good friend Tara. She whisked us straight to Brick Lane
for some Indian food. I had aubergine drenched in some kind of spices sauce. It was sooooo good that I asked how they prepared
the aubergine. Turns out they freaking deep fried it twice. THAT´S WHY! Hahahaha.

Of course we were sniffing and sharing our thoughts over dinner because Indian cuisine isn´t fragrant enough alone. 🙂

Cookie Queen & Blondeswunder in London 2017

The next day, after two cups of English tea and countless visits to various loos along the way, we finally made it to the Frederic Malle store. I was very pleased to see a handsome, well put together young male SA, Pawel. Sadly for me he has an Italian boyfriend. Should have known! We got to smell and spritz perfume all over our bodies. I couldn´t chose so just went with Carnal Flower, Dries Van Noten, Eau de Magnolia, and Malle`s newest, Superstitious.

 

Of course when I had no more skin space I discovered Lipstick Rose. OH MY GOOOSH. So good. So soft. So me. Pawel was nice enough to give me a 3.5ml sample bottle to try it properly. Tara, Mummy and I were ready to kill with our sillage as we left for our pre-booked tour of Highgate Cemetery. We ended the day in Camden Market eating street food and chips.

The Thursday saw us meeting a close family friend of ours, Kirk, The Softboy Scentmaster. (My mum pulled him down the rabbit hole a couple of years ago.) Somehow our plans got changed and Mother dragged us back into the Malle store. I grabbed four spritzes of Dries Van Noten and covered my hair in the Carnal Flower hair mist. (Which I need in my life!) We then proceeded to the Gielgud Theatre just off Piccadilly, to see The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Nightime. It was absolutely brilliant. (We kept smelling each others necks and arms, and getting looks from the people around us. I mean, haven´t they ever seen people smelling each other every two seconds in public?)

 

Early evening we got to meet up with The Candy Perfume Boy and his lovely husband, on the bank of the Thames outside the Tate Modern.

Even though I am 22 and my Mother occasionally drives me nuts (mostly because I seem to be turning into her) we had the best time in London. And I was so happy to see Tara again, she is one of the strongest women I know, and I so look up to her and what she has achieved. How great it is to find such friends and peace and joy in perfume.

What are your FM favourites? DO you like perfume to be private or do you like letting people know?

Hugs
Blondeswunder

PS. Mother here – What can I add? I bought 10mls each of Dries Van Noten and Une Rose. I came home with big decants
of La Pausa 28, OJ Champaca, and Goutal´s Songes EdT and a Papillon´s Dryad sample. A non-perfumista friend went crazy for Outrageous! I missed Vanessa from Bonkers being able to join us, but shit happens. I feel blessed to have a daughter that actually wants to go away with me for a few days, she lights up my life with her humour and sunny character. CQ xxx

 

(Ed: Thanks for the photos Val and Hannah. Love them all)

Scent Diary 15.5 – 21.5.2017

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Portia

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Hey there Fragrant Family,

This week has gone by in a blur. Where did it bloody well go? Wasn’t I just posting the scent Diary last week a minute ago?

Having said that the week has been really good mainly, loads of great fragrances, friends and food. Can’t complain about that.

Scent Diary 15.5 – 21.5.2017

Monday 15:

Lazy morning answering Australian Perfume Junkies comments. We hit the 150 comments mark for the Saturday question this week so one lucky commenter will be getting a $20 Surrender To Chance GIFT CERTIFICATE! I’m really happy about that but my typing finger is a bloodied stump. Yes, I do all this with one finger every week. Pathetic, I know.

We had a few things on the agenda for today but only a few got done. First Jin & I went and had pizza & pasta at Gioia in Leichhardt on our way to the Redfern apartment where my BFF Kath lives to fix the lights under the kitchen cupboards onto the benchtops. I love that kitchen.

While we were there we left her belated happy Mother’s Day present. I think she loved it. Who doesn’t need new flaps?

Had a few deliveries. Of course they all come at once when I ordered them over a month. Decanting supplies from ProudStyle, LuckyScent order, bought a used Frederic Malle Musc Ravager from FaceBook and lastly a nearly full vintage DIOR Diorella EdT that has gone a bit stale from the CFCs/propellant. Still, it’s not ruined but it is not pristine either. It also leaked a bit in transit and its silver at the sprayer is going nasty.

Tuesday 16:

It’s only 1.40am, and I’m finished my Trivia Q&A. Woo Hoo! I did get some prep work done the other day so all my games and jackpot were already written. The daily Q&A was also ready to be done so having done a couple of hours work before i am much more ready.

OK spritzing Carner Barcelona RIMA XI, cleaning my teeth and going to bed. Night.

This morning was sunny and warm so I went for Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur. It arrived in the mail and I REALLY wanted to give it an outing. So warm and cuddly, a real furry fragrance. It was delicious while walking the dogs in the sunlit morning.

Went and saw Kath’s Mum at the rehab centre. we finally got her to sit outside in the warm air today to have lunch. She looks 100% improved.

Tonight I was having a hard time deciding what fragrance to wear for work and the candy stripes of my Cacharel Scarlett travel size caught my eye. It was a perfect choice and got some compliments. Happy frag day.

For SOTBed I wore Serge Lutens Arabie. Sweet spicy chutney and dusty desert in a bottle. Perfect for floating away upon.

Wednesday 17:

Jin cooked Korean pancakes this morning. they are pancake batter filled with nuts and melted brown sugar. You have no idea. Sorry I have no photo but they were delicious.

Jin and I went to our local IDAHoT 2017 event. International Day Against Homophobia and Transphobia. There were a group of our mates up at Parramatta to support the cause, the Police Band played with a sensational singer, there were speeches and the raising of the Rainbow flag outside our historic Parramatta Town Hall. The sun was shining and it was a fun way to spend lunchtime.

Jin wore Serge Lutens Muscs Kublai Khan and I was wearing Annick Goutal Grand Amour. As you can see my bottle is nearly empty, has changed colour and looks like it’s on its last legs. Nope, smells as good as the day I bought it. MMMMMMM

When I got home we watched the last two episodes of Sense8. Absolutely heart stopping drama, loved every second.

Tonight in honour of Greg Young’s extra special Guest Post I’m spritzing the cool, fresh elegance of CHANEL Pour Monsieur, bought from Robert Herrmann in his sale. MMMMMMMM

Thursday 18:

Wore Guerlain Samsara extrait today. Not sure exactly how old it is but it smells so much like my Mum that I’m feeling disoriented. Total mind fuck for a while.

Jin and I did some garage reorganising. He put a cupboard on the wall that I have wanted up for nearly two years, we moved some furniture from the house down there too. This place needs to be a little more streamlined to be fully zen.

Tonight I went crazy with the Agent Provocateur EdP. I enjoyed every inhale and it has lasted for hours and hours.

Fragrantica

After work my car got a flat tyre. Had to call the Roadside Assist and I was still in full drag. He was so unconcerned and absolutely sweet. He fixed it all, chattered a bit and we went on our merry ways. Thank you NRMA. It was a super nice experience, and he took less than 20 minutes to get to me and get it fixed.

Tonight I’ve spritzed Parfums DelRae Coup de Foudre. It goes beautifully over the Agent Provocateur EdP. Ready for bed. Night.

Friday 19:

WHAT A DAY! Got up and walked the dogs quickly where the Cockatoos are playing headstone angels.

Then caught a bus & train headed into Sydney city to meet with some perfume geeks.

Ingrid, Gino and Tim were my adventure accomplices and we had a wonderful time. Ingrid is down in Sydney from the Gold coast for her birthday so we celebrated in high style. Starting with coffees in the David Jones Food Hall and a quick sniff of the niche fragrances on display in store.

Then we moved on to Harold’s in City Westfield. We met Gino & Tim there and had a wonderful time looking at the high fashion, niche fragrance and accessories. I caved and bought Series 3 Incense: Ouarzazate Comme des Garcons, which I have had small decants of but was out. Roman and Andy were our SAs today but gorgeous Andy got the purchase. Gagging for the fun Balenziaga bags, REALLY want one.

It was definitely time for lunch and a lazy Prosecco at David Jones Food Hall. We ate at the cheese and antipasto desk. It was wonderful fun eating, sniffing and chatting.

Then we hit Mecca in Myer and were served by Ken, the sexy bearded French hottie. Sadly I already owned everything in the store I want. It was super fun chatting fragrance with them though.

Also we got to see my next boyfriend Louis at the Libertine stand in Myer. I bloody wish he had something i wanted to buy. As we were leaving I did tell him I am coming back soon to get his number and go eat. He is sweet and charming.

At Men’s Biz Ingrid bought Tauer Lonestar Memories. A purchase she had long been pondering, great choice for her. The guys there are so friendly and knowledgable. It’s always a pleasure but sadly they don’t stock my shave soap anymore. BUM.

Coming home on the train & bus I was overwhelmed by how much fragrance I had on. Like I was fumigating the bus. Because we’d tried so much on I think I was bathed in 10+ niche fragrances. Poor people on the bus. It was too much even for me.

Saturday 20:

This morning dawned cool and wet. Jin got home from work at 5.30am. Unusually I woke up and was 100% ready for the day when he got into bed so I jumped out of bed and came to my computer to get some blogging done. Fed & walked the dogs through the wonderful Autumn wispy drizzle. It was heavenly, the dogs loved it too. Had a little cuddle with my baby boy Paris and spritzed some M.O.U.S.S.E. by Oliver & Co. from their Discovery Set that’s left me softly sizzling with a bright, metallic clove. Beautiful.

Off to Pedi with my BFF Kath, hopefully we’ll have lunch too.
Yes we did. Popcorn Chicken and Dumplings for lunch. Sorry I didn’t take a pic but we were chattering so much that I completely forgot.

Spent the evening at home with the dogs watching TV and getting stuff organised for next week. Very quiet and peaceful. Perfect.

Sunday 21:

3am. So, I’m in bed. I’ve just got the sheets warmed to perfect with my body heat. It’s comfy and cuddly under the doona.

Then I realise I forgot to spritz for bed.

QUANDRY! Do I stay here and wish I hadn’t or get out, spritz something and lose my heated cocoon?

THE STRUGGLE IS REAL

Bed Green Bird Doona May 2017

My long time buddy, since we were teens is coming for a champagne brunch this morning. Doing a little cleaning and pottering around the house before she comes. I love how the house feels with Jin sound asleep in the bedroom and me just going about the cleaning rituals. I’m burning an Ainslie Walker for MudAustralia Candle to make the house smell like flowers instead of old men and dogs.

I did Bacon, French Toast and Golden Syrup, Percolated coffee and Verve Mimosas. It was wonderful fun chatting and laughing. I’m so lucky to have these two beauties in my life.

On my person I have spritzed Perfumerie Generale 25 Indochine. Beautiful, sweet woods. Balmy, Smooth.

Bathe and off to work. DIOR Mitzah and lashings of it. While driving to work I was absolutely overwhelmed by it. So lavish and glamorous. Here’s a pic at the end of the night with Kim R and Anna-Maria. These girls are the bomb, I love them to infinity.

 

So how about you? How was your week? What frags did you wear?” Did you do or go anywhere interesting?
Share please in the comments.
I love to read about your lives too.
Portia xxx

Superstitious by Dominique Ropion for Frederic Malle 2016

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Val the Cookie Queen

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Good Day from the UK APJ Peeps!

As you read this I will probably be trundling my way towards the Frederic Malle store in Burlington Arcade with Tara from A Bottled Rose and the B.londeswunder. Originally it was planned that we would sniff Superstitious together, but that was four weeks ago. I mostly have no problem waiting to try something but every once in a while the junkie in me grabs hold and I have no control. I commented on a FB thread as to how excited I was to try Superstitious and six days later the postman turned up with a package from France with a sample in it. Nothing like a generous addict helping another one out. I believe we call it an enabler in our circle? As opposed to a pusher?

Superstitious Alber Elbaz par Frederic Malle 2017

Superstitious by Dominic Ropion

Superstitious Frederic Malle FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Jasmine, rose, peach, amber, incense, vetiver, patchouli, aldehydes

For some reason I keep calling this perfume suspicious, I think I need to tattoo Superstitious onto my forehead. Dunno why I can´t get a handle on it.

Malle´s first collaboration was with Dries von Noten, the Belgian fashion designer. This was back in 2013. He returns now with number two. Superstitious is an alliance with Alber Elbaz, the Moroccan-Israeli fashion designer, formerly of Lanvin. You might wanna Google him if you have a few moments. He is a really interesting character not to mention his exquisite designs. If I were rich and wore dresses …….

GOBSTOPPER SWEETS

Gobstoppers (jawbreakers) consist of a number of layers and colours, and as each layer dissolves another appears; these layers are often flavoured too. It takes hours and hours, and sometimes days to finish them.

Here we have jasmine, rose, a hint of peach, amber, incense, vetiver, and patchouli wrapped in a thick layer of waxy aldehydes. There is an underlying whisp of grapeness too, the dark purple artificially flavoured Kool-Aid kind. A 1950´s vintage fragrance presented to us in 2017. As the divine waxy aldehydes melt away, the jasmine just bursts forth indolic, with elegance and sophistication. It languishes and slowly melts down into the rich velvety foundation, yet remains intertwined with the full-bodied base notes. Lavish but with a rough edge, and particularly seductive.

It is perfect, Ropion knows it, and I doubt he cares less what anyone else has to say about it.

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy and Perfume Posse
Frederic Malle has €50/10ml

After using the sample I promptly ordered the 10ml travel spray. My first jasmine. I hope Tara and I will find something else to sniff and whilst in the shop! A travel Dries van Noten might not hurt eh?

Suspicious Bussis
CQ

PS. It might be fair to say if waxy aldehydes and indolic jasmine sounds like death warmed up, you might wanna try something else – as did LJG.

(Ed: Pics supplied by Val the CQ unless otherwise noted)

FRAGs and FRAGments From The Last Fortnight

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Val the Cookie Queen

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Felicitations APJ

It´s been bloody freezing here. Between like 1°c and 4°c. Snow flurries, and peach and cherry blossoms hanging on for dear life. It has at least given me the chance to get back to a proper gym routine. This week I will start spinning classes again and I am terrified. Been working out to The Doors, The Lumineers and the Easy Rider soundtrack.

FRAGs Worn

Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Therese. Sunny, tangy, sweet, dry and earthy. It´s a fascinating scent and makes me feel very grownup. Graceful and sophisticated.
Hermès Galop d’Hermès. Sunrise to sunset. A sparkly golden astringent opening, quince and saffron, a bright rose, and a long slow dry down to a dusky copper gold leather base.

Vero Profumo Naja. A green and floral tobacco. A blonde tobacco perfume, highlighted with neroli and bergamot, honeyed linden, and flecked with osmanthus.
Ormonde Jayne Tolu. Sumptuous but not overpowering. Subtly opulent. A vibrant herbal opening, contrasting beautifully with the rich amber heart. Resinous, warm and comforting.

FRAGments

B.blondeswunder stole my Portrait of a Lady for the Easter weekend away with the family of her boyfriend. (Note that they live in the boonies of Austria.) She applied four spritzes. Her boyfriend asked if she was wearing something new. To which she replied “Yep. Do you like it?” He replied “It might take me some time to get used to it.” Hahahahahahahahaha. Death by PoaL. I also came across a picture of MY Galop and MY cat on HER Instagram Story. I may have to lock my perfume wardrobe.

B.londesuwnder also practiced her drag make up technique on NoFear Chris, her long suffering Hero Dad.

BJTG (my seldom featured son) had a tattoo, not yet healed.

Great Grandmother turned 101.

A dear friend had a mild stroke. Total shit. Life is not always like it seems in the blogs.

Keep on truckin’
Bussis
CQ

Noir Epices by Michel Roudnitska for Frederic Malle 2000

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Post by Claire Vukcevic

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Hi APJ folk!

We’ve been enjoying an amazing autumn here in Ireland. Lucky enough to live in the most sheltered spot on this rain-sodden island, we spent most of October and November trawling the long, golden beaches and kicking over the leaves in castle parks. The sun never stopped shining, temperatures barely dipped below 15 degrees, and we were all in such a damn good mood. Then one day, driving back from a jaunt to Kilkenny, I made the fatal mistake of saying, “And imagine – the kids haven’t been sick even once!”

Jesus.

Naturally, there hasn’t been a dry tissue in the house since. There’s been the flu, chest infections, and a torn cornea that necessitated an emergency hospital visit and a hefty bill (no health insurance). More familiar with hospital waiting rooms than I’d care to be, I have developed a perfume strategy that helps a bit. I wear powerfully radiant, antiseptic fumes that march ahead of me, wiping whole rooms down with Dettol before I enter, and whisper “Do not fuck with me” to receptionists.

Noir Epices by Frederic Malle 2000

Noir Epices by Michel Roudnitska

noir-epices-frederic-malle-fragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange, rose, geranium
Heart: Nutmeg, cinnamon, pepper, cloves
Base: Sandalwood, patchouli, cedar, vanilla

Yeah, so, I’m wearing a lot of Noir Epices. It is a difficult, somewhat prickly perfume – a sort of stripped-down, Vorsprung Durch Technik version of Coco. Re-engineered to remove all the sweetness and ballasting amber; it’s the perfume equivalent of whittling a comfy sofa into a Philippe Starck chair.

noir-epices-frederic-malle-ngv_design_philippe_starck_w-w-_stool-wikicommonsWikiCommons

In the opening notes, a hot pink rose stumbles onto the scene, flushed and boozy, washed down with the metallic sheen of geranium leaf. It is intensely beautiful to me at first because I get the impression of fullness – the bitter greenness of the geranium balanced by the rose, and the dry, peppery spices are backed up by rich woods. Singed orange peel and clove burn through spices, florals, and woods, purifying the unclean air around me and excoriating the flesh around open wounds. Noir Epices is the answer to the plague.

I feel fierce when I wear this, but eventually the very things that make me feel protected wear me down. Wearing Noir Epices is like putting a pure vitamin C serum on your face – the burning feels good because you know that it is active, but at the same time, the discomfort is real. Noir Epices has all the trappings of a rich spice oriental – the acidity of spilled orange juice, dry pomander woods, black pepper, an excitable rose – but completely lacks the underpinnings. There is no amber, vanilla, or creamy, hefty woods to round this out in the base, and while I understand that its appeal comes from this woody weightlessness, I would wish for a kinder, more forgiving ending. Noir Epices is a stern judge of character.

noir-epices-frederic-malle-ku_kai-chih-wikicommonsWikipedia

Longevity and sillage are outstanding, 7 hours at the least. I recommend Noir Epices to anyone in need of a magic potion to ward off illnesses, and to fans of spicy, dry orange-rose pomander fragrances such as Coco and Maharanih.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Non Blonde
Mecca has $217/50ml with FREE Australian Shipping
Surrender To Chance have samples starting at $8.69/ml

What do you guys use to banish the sickies?

Slán,
Claire

The Modern Fougere: Kurkdjian, Malle, Penhaligon’s

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Post by Liam

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Howdy Hum Salubrious Scentophiles.

Of the entire gamut of fragrances, I am most cautious of the Fougere.

Why? Do this for me- play a game of covert ops (if you are a man, this is easy. If you are a woman, pretend you are buying a gift for a boyfriend). Head on down to your local department store and ask the question: “I am looking for a safe fragrance at around the one-hundred dollar mark”. Tell them he doesn’t often wear scent, perhaps only for special occasions.

I am willing and happy to wager that if they do not offer you an aquatic to try, they will then offer you either a fragrance in the wood category or the Aromatic Fougere.

The Modern Fougere: Kurkdjian, Malle, Penhaligon’s

What’s wrong with the mass market Fougere? The structure of a Fougere is largely complex, richly layered with a harmonious topdown structure from a vibrant citrus top note, an aromatic hum in the middle, and a weighty wooded base at the bottom. When perfumes mess with these transitions, with cloying drydowns and/or linalool and ambroxan driven facets, piercing top notes, and imperceptible accords – the Fougere has been tarnished.

Jean-Paul Guerlain made a statement that I am inclined to adhere to. He believed that apart from Guerlain’s two Fougere scents – Jicky and Mouchoir de Monsieur, any other Fougere is for truck drivers. Given my current and (of course) personal perspective of the market, I am inclined to say the same.

However! The Fougere begins to shine a pulsating, welcoming, and soft glow when we begin to look at a few more ‘uppermarket’ scents. Here are my favourite Fougeres for a contemporary market.

Sartorial Penhaligon`s FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Sartorial by Penhaligon’s

A superstar in the fragrance community (and when you have the confidence, fragcom is the appropriate blend word to use), I personally really admire Sartorial for its classicism.

I get what I want from Sartorial: a lavender, amber, and sandalwood structure that alloys down a citrus impression at the opening. But Duchaufour takes it a step further. He places the scent in context. In a Saville Row tailor’s workroom. Beeswax, metallic notes, steam-iron notes, and a linen fabric accord intermingle with the classic structure giving depth, definition, and clarity. A wonderful scent.

Masculin Pluriel Maison Francis Kurkdjian FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Masculin Pluriel by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

This is the antidote to my woes. I am saddened by a lack of clarity in Fougere scents – with these instead presenting a musty static that I cannot bare. Much like Sartorial, the name suggests a throwback to what makes a masculine fragrance – a Fougere! Lavender is a must, along with red cedar, leather, and patchouli. A fragrance representing a quest for the ‘eternal masculine’, a ‘timeless scent’, this comes pretty close. It it predicable and forward, like a good gentleman.

GeraniumPourMonsieur FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Geranium Pour Monsieur – Frederic Malle

A minty wildcard, I am currently really liking this one. It is tenacious. It opens with a smooth abrasiveness from Chinese geranium – giving a floral potency lifted with nose tingling mint, anise, and ouzo notes. Combined with the spice of clove, cinnamon and then swept with crystalline musk – Geranium Pour Monsieur omits the toothpaste impression but retains its menthol-like freshness. It is precise; a well-tuned creation that plays on cool and hot. Creating a sophisticated, refreshing and tonic-like fragrance, Geranium Pour Monsieur is probably the best mint-driven scent on the market, and a superb quasi-fougere.

Be kind, and rethink your labelling of the (otherwise almighty) Fougere.
What’s a modern Fougere to you?

-Liam

P.S I’m away for a while, Yr12 exams! See you soon!