Scent Diary: 12.2 – 18.2.2018

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Portia

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Hey there APJ Crew,

This week has been full on. Every day has been filled with friends and fragrance. We’ve had guests to stay, guests to eat, guests to work. It’s Mardi Gras season, Winter Olympics and Lunar New Year. In between I’ve managed to get some serious TV time watching GRIMM.

 

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Slowdive by Hiram Green 2017

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Val the Cookie Queen

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Hey APJ

Smells Like Honey.

It is always such a joy to bring to your attention a new launch from the quiet genius that is Hiram Green. I am guessing that
If your are reading this, you are quite probably some kind of perfume addict and therefore familiar with the the other four exquisite
eau de parfums in his collection Continue reading

Arbolé Arbolé by Hiram Green 2016

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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Foggy November Greetings APJ!

Perfume Excitement

As I mentioned in my last blog post, I prefer not l to write about anything that I don´t own. There are however exceptions to every rule. I had an email from Hiram Green of Hiram Green perfumes informing me that there was a sample of his new perfume on its way to me. His work is consistently excellent and I have enjoyed each fragrance. Yesterday I had a call from a perfumista friend I trust one hundred percent, raving on about Arbolé Arbolé. And then I read Claire Vukcevic´s post, of Take One Thing Off and APJ. Shifting into perfume excitement mode, I waited anxiously for the postman.

arbole-arbole-hiram-green-val-cq

Arbolé Arbolé by Hiram Green 2016

arbole-arbole-hiram-green-fragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Patchouli, cedar, sandalwood, vanilla, tonka bean

…… with the grey arm of the wind wrapped around her waist

Arbolé, Arbolé takes its name from Frederico Garcia Lorca´s exquisite poem of the same name. It is new to me though written in 1955, and acutely expressive.
I wish I could read Spanish.

arbole-arbole-hiram-green-r-nial-bradshaw-girls-umbrella-wind-flight-flickrFlickr

Arbolé Arbolé is so impressive I am speechless, sat here with my head in my hands wondering what to write. My husband just yelled from the living room “nicht zerreden”. Which means don´t talk it to death. He also said to order a bottle. I have never smelled anything that is remotely similar. I have been wearing it for six hours now, longevity is great.

Hiram Green writes: “Arbolé Arbolé opens with a burst of earthy patchouli that slowly merges with dry cedar wood and velvety sandalwood. Vanilla and tonka bean anchor the fragrance and provide a sweet powdery base.” I guess he should know. Jump over to Hiram´s website and have a look.
Hiram Green are offering Arbolé Arbolé in a 10ml travel spray along with a full bottle AND what is particularly brilliant is that you can buy all of the HG perfumes in 10 ml travel sprays. Superb.

Our world has changed greatly since my last post. Political disaster encourages great music, so bring it on.
“Music is the emotional life of most people.” Leonard Cohen

Green Perfumed Bussis
CQ

PS. Hmmmmmm. A full bottle or 10mls, that is the question. I never order at night when the flesh is weak, tomorrow will tell. Watch this space!!

Arbolé Arbolé by Federico García Lorca, 1898 – 1936

Tree, tree
dry and green.

The girl with the pretty face
is out picking olives.
The wind, playboy of towers,
grabs her around the waist.
Four riders passed by
on Andalusian ponies,
with blue and green jackets
and big, dark capes.
“Come to Cordoba, muchacha.”
The girl won’t listen to them.
Three young bullfighters passed,
slender in the waist,
with jackets the color of oranges
and swords of ancient silver.
“Come to Sevilla, muchacha.”
The girl won’t listen to them.
When the afternoon had turned
dark brown, with scattered light,
a young man passed by, wearing
roses and myrtle of the moon.
“Come to Granada, muchacha.”
And the girl won’t listen to him.
The girl with the pretty face
keeps on picking olives
with the grey arm of the wind
wrapped around her waist.
Tree, tree
dry and green.

Dilettante by Hiram Green 2016 + EASY Orange Cake Recipe

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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Sunny Salutations APJ

It is the sun shining on the rain and the rain falling on the sunshine.” Francis Hodgson Burnett.

Dilettante by Hiram Green 2016

Dilettante Hiram Green FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
French orange flower, petitgrain, orange

I prefer not to write about a fragrance that I do not have at least 10mls of and in most cases a full bottle. I make an exception in the case of Hiram´s Dilettante as it is just so gorgeous. And I used up two whole samples, four full wearings and would like more. Hiram Green informs us “Dilettante is an enchanted and light-hearted celebration of summer” but it would have healing power in the dark and cold long days winter.

“Based on a triptych of orange flower, petitgrain and essential oil of orange” Dilettante springs into life sharp, sweet and bitter. Succulent and mouthwatering, exuberant and effervescent. Unhurriedly it winds its way into a floral waxy orange blossom, sweet and delicious to the senses. The muskiness in the base combined with the bitterness of the petitgrain is sultry on the skin. A very beautiful perfume.

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LuckyScent has $165/50ml

It is interesting to note that orange oils, and especially petitgrain are known to promote clarity of mind and to aid concentration. They balance the emotions, clearing off mental depression.

I’m happy, I’m feeling glad, I got sunshine, in a bag ……….” Gorillaz

Super Citrus Bussis
CQ

Mouth watering from all this talk of orange, why not make a cake?

Orange Juice Loaf Cake + Fresh Orange Juice Syrup

(Works well with lemons too)

Val Orange Cake #1

Ingredients.

168 grammes of butter (3/4 cup)
3/4 cup of sugar
3 large eggs
1/4 cup sour cream/yoghourt/buttermilk
1 generous teaspoon of vanilla
1 tbsp orange zest
2 tbsp fresh orange juice
1 1/2 cups of flour
1 tsp baking powder
Pinch of salt

Syrup
4 tbsp fresh orange juice
1/2 cup of sugar

1. Line the bottom of the 9 x 4 inch loaf pan with baking paper and lightly grease the sides of the pan.
Preheat the oven to 350°F or 180°C

Val Orange Cake #7

Val Orange Cake #2

 

2. Cream the butter and the sugar well with an electric mixer. Add the eggs one at a time, beating after each one.
Chuck in the sour cream (or whatever you use), the vanilla, zest and orange juice. Mix well.

3. Add the flour, baking powder, and salt mixture. Gently mix it in.

Val Orange Cake #3

4. Spread the batter into the pan. Bake about 40 minutes. Grab a bike spoke if you have one handy, otherwise a toothpick will do.
Insert it into the middle of the cake. If it comes out clean it´s done. Otherwise give it a couple of more minutes.

Val Orange Cake #5

Val Orange Cake #6

 

5. While it is baking, put the 1/2 cup of sugar and 4 tbsp of orange juice into a small pan. Cook it until the sugar has dissolved and then for another minutes or so. Take it off the heat and stand on the side.

Val Orange Cake #4

6. When the cake is out of the oven let it cool for a few minutes. Remove from pan and set it on a rack.
Then prick it all over with the spoke or toothpick, I pay particular attention to where the cake is cracked
along the top. Brush or spoon the glaze over the warm cake. Leave to cool, or not!

Val Orange Cake #1

(Ed: All Photos Donated by Val the Cookie Queen unless otherwise stated. Thanks Val, gorgeous!)

Hiram Green Voyage by Hiram Green 2015

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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Voyage to the Bottom of the Sea was my favourite TV series as a kid. Admiral Nelson and his crew. The flying sub which could leave the ocean and function as an airplane being the coolest thing ever.

Hiram Green Voyage by Hiram Green 2015

 Voyage Hiram Green  FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Citruses
Heart: Amber, suede
Base: Vanilla

Hiram Green’s Voyage – An ode to the exotic mysteries of India.

I chatted with Hiram briefly the other day. He mentioned that he would find it difficult to write two sentences about his own creations, and was interested that some bloggers could write thick novels. I found that highly amusing.

Hiram Green VoyagePhoto Donated Val CQ

When I started writing for APJ it was really just a bit of fun. I was extremely surprised when I found that people were asking if they could send me perfumes to
try. I was so excited but that soon died down when I saw that most of them didn’t work on me. I believe that is the politically correct way of putting it? I
only get some sort of inspiration when I like something. Which kind of limits me. Perhaps I should write about what sucks, but I am sure Portia would fire me. I digress. Hiram Green sent me a sample of Voyage and I have used it all. It is quite bodacious.

Hiram green in India aged 14Photo Donated Hiram Green

Voyage is opulent and sumptuous, two words that do not tend to get used with an all natural perfume. It is the drydown of many more modern perfumes where it falls short of expectation. Top loaded to blow your mind and then after 20 minutes the common base. Voyage could not be further away from this perfume concept. The perfume is built on a base of superb vanilla and a heart of amber. The fragrance opens with a lively citrus feel before slipping into the spicy, warm, lush heart. Hiram doesn´t mention spice in his list of notes, but hey, who cares about the notes anyway? There is a soft suede halo wrapped around the whole composition, which draws it altogether. It is tweaked to perfection and lasts for hours. It blows apart all preconceived ideas (mine) of natural perfumery apart.

Attention to detail is exquisite, from the wax seal to the website. The bottles are stunning. They are every bit as gorgeous in real life as they are on the pictures. All three of his scents are outstanding. He clearly does not bend to the industry, nor to the trend of churning out a new fragrance every few months.
Modern classic beauty.

Voyage Hiram Green The_Voyage_of_Life_Old_Age WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Voyage, as well as Moon Bloom and Shangri La can be purchased in 5 ml sprays at Hiram Green. All three highly recommended. Note that Voyage is limited to 250 bottles.

“Ah, you’ve come over the water. Powerful wet stuff, ain´t it?”
The Voyage of the “Dawn Treader”. C.S. Lewis

Valiant Bussis
CQ

Shangri La by Hiram Green 2014

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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I run a mile when I hear the word “naturals”. Not only with fragrances, but skin care, shower gels, foodstuffs – you know? Not because I am anti-natural (whatever that means) but because it generally sucks. Just read the backs of anything that claims to be all natural to see what I mean. However there are exceptions to every rule. After the explosive beauty of Hiram Green´s Moon Bloom I was thrilled to get the opportunity to try Shangri La. I do not know the first thing about natural perfumery. Hiram Green obviously does.

Shangri La by Hiram Green 2014

Shangri La, Pinks + Preconceived Ideas

From Hiram Green site: “Hiram Green creates handcrafted fragrances made exclusively from natural materials.
After founding Scent Systems, a perfumery located in central London, Hiram learnt that most perfumes, even the best quality ones,
are manufactured using synthetic materials. Wanting to offer a natural alternative to his customers, he was hard-pressed
to find anything suitable.
After relocating to the Netherlands, Hiram spent several years researching and experimenting with natural fragrant materials. in his
studio in Gouda he develops and produces his natural fragrances in small batches.”

Hiram Green Shangri La jacek-yerka-bible-dam FreshWetPaintPhoto Stolen FreshWetPaint

Shangri La is named after the mythical city in the Kunlan Mountains, from the 1933 novel Lost Horizon by James Hilton. Random info –
US President Franklin D Roosevelt named the presidential hideaway in Maryland Shangri La. It has since been renamed Camp David.
(Camp David conjures up an interesting picture as a fragrance name huh?) )

Coty´s Chypre played a role in Hiram Green´s inspiration. I have yet to smell it. One day when Portia takes me to Paris perhaps I will have the chance. Hiram Green is extremely talented. In my limited knowledge I do know the classic chypre, with the countless regulations in force, is an endangered species. Somehow with new technology, knowledge and talent, Hiram Green has found a way to keep it alive.

Shangri La reminds me of Mitsouko.

Hiram Green writes: “Shangri La opens with a sharp burst of citrus, followed by a rich bouquet of peach, jasmine, rose, iris and spices,
all anchored by an early base of vetiver and oakmoss.” And you know what? It really does.

Shangri La is fruity and spicy, and melds perfectly with the body. It doesn’t hover over you announcing its presence. I like that in perfumery. It is a vintage-y perfume but of the moment too. Softer than normal carnation, it smells of old fashioned “pinks”. The gardens of yesteryear. They fill the summer air with the scent of cloves. Soft, natural beauty. In medieval times, pinks were added to wine to give the flavor and smell of cloves. Spices would have been very expensive and this plant was a very good substitute and
would give the impression of mulled wine. Hiram Green has a nose and an eye for beauty, not to mention a nostalgic streak.

Hiram Green Shangri La Skyline_sunset WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Shangri La is gorgeous. The reputation that naturals have of being short lived is not the case here. Shangri La lasts around ten hours.
Musky, peachy, slightly leathery, right up until the end. Office or opera.

And the icing on the cake? Hiram Green do 5ml bottles. No excuse not to try either Moon Bloom or Shangri La.
The 50 ml bottles are stunning and I would love to have one. I think it´s time for another trip to Holland.

Further reading: Scented Hound and Chemist In A Bottle
LuckyScent has $165/50ml
Hiram Green has €25/5ml

All natural bussis.
CQ

 

Moon Bloom by Hiram Green 2013

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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Hey APJ! Happy New Year.

Through the miracle of modern technology, Portia introduced me to Hiram Green by email, and invited him to send me a sample of Moon Bloom. Oh yes, I was excited. This would be a first for me, having a perfume sent specifically to be tested and written about. But what if I didn´t like it?

I am sat here sipping my Matcha latte (my current addiction), with my nose glued to my wrist wondering what on earth I can possibly add to all that has been said already about Moon Bloom. I will have to assume that some of you are reading about Moon Bloom for the first time.

Moon Bloom by Hiram Green 2013

Moon Bloom Hiram Green FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Tuberose absolute, jasmine absolute, ylang-ylang, coconut, leafy greens, tropical spices, resins

Moon Bloom is an all natural fragrance. Tuberose absolute, jasmine absolute, and creamy ylang ylang, mingled with coconut, leafy greens, hints of tropical spice and resins. It is extremely feminine and drop-dead gorgeous; hypnotic and narcotic. I wore it up a mountain. Sub-zero temperatures along with snow add to the beauty of this very desirable concoction. It´s luminous, visible in the darkness. It is a fragrance for the winter solstice.

Moon Bloom Hiram Green Denmark Solstice FotoPediaPhoto Stolen FotoPedia

“Natural fragrant materials have the power to stimulate the senses in ways a synthetic cannot duplicate.” Hiram Green

The perfume hugs the skin like a cloak, staying close for at least six hours. I cannot recommend it highly enough if tuberose and perfection together is your thing. The bottle too is as perfect as the perfume within it.

Further reading: About Hiram Green – Olfactoria’s Travels and Smelly Thoughts
Hiram Green has €135/50ml, and a €25/5ml TRAVEL SIZE. Just like all perfume houses should do. (Note – folks outside of the EU do not pay sales tax, so it comes in at a lower price.)

There was no need to worry. I loved it. You know how you can tell? I would not have written about it otherwise.

With a million thanks to Hiram Green for giving me the opportunity, and encouraging me to look further into natural perfumery.

Have a nice day.

Bussis
CQ