Nuit de Bakélite by Isabelle Doyen for Naomi Goodsir 2017

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Sandra

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Hi there APJ, I hope everyone is doing well and enjoying spring or autumn. I am actually quite surprised that autumn is so much nicer than summer here in the Netherlands.

When we arrived in the Netherlands I made it a personal quest of mine to hunt down as many different flowers as I could get my greedy hands on. Not only is almost everything available, but the prices are incredibly low! I have been going through the seasons here looking for specific flowers, such as crocosmia in the summer, hydrangeas the size of basketballs, orchids of all shapes and sizes and this summer I finally, after many years of dreaming, was able to buy fresh tuberose. I have always loved tuberose perfumes, but after experiencing the real thing, my expectations have changed slightly. I no longer want creamy or buttery tuberose, or tuberose that is so difficult to smell because of added ingredients that are an onslaught to my senses. I want the real thing.

When I bought my first stems of tuberose I was taken aback at how complex the flower is. The flowers are so delicate in sight and to the touch – they are almost silky. I expected the flowers to be white, when in reality they are more ivory, tinged with pinks, yellows and the slightest green. The stem itself has different shades of green but not a dark green at all. Visually the tuberose is stunning and then there is the perfume. Oh my is it intoxicating! My home smelled divine for a whole week.

I love that the Naomi Goodsir website describes Nuit de Bakélite as “Floral (2017) The premise of a ‘narcotic lady’…”

Nuit de Bakélite by Naomi Goodsir 2017

Nuit de Bakélite by Isabelle Doyen

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Tuberose, angelica, artemisia, ylang-ylang, karo karounde, carrot seeds, cardamom, leather, styrax, green notes

Don’t take these notes too seriously as they differ on several websites because no note list was released.

I was hoping for something out of the ordinary, something new and bit surprising – narcotic. Let’s sniff…

Wow – what an opening! It starts out bright and fresh green – full of juicy (not sweet at all) slightly bitter green leaves. Usually, I shy away from such green perfumes because they are out of my comfort zone. Not to fear, this perfume surprises me with the turns it takes. After such a fresh green opening it stays that way for a while on my skin, only hinting at the merest inclusion of tuberose. As my skin warms and I am moving around, the tuberose becomes more pronounced, but it is not a soliflore at all. The tuberose is accompanied by a little bit of rooty and woody goodness. To make it more interesting I am sensing that there are other things going on here that I cannot pinpoint.

Then to my surprise once again, Nuit de Bakelite shifts slightly bringing in a leather component. It dries down to a wonderful tuberose leather scent sprinkled with woods to make it rounder. This perfume has all the colors of the blossoms that I smelled this summer. The green stalk, the blossom tinged with pinks and yellows all come through in Nuit de Bakelite.

Further reading: BL’eauOG and Persolaise
LuckyScent has $187/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples from $6/0.5ml

With this new entry into Naomi Goodsir’s lineup I will buy samples of all of the other ones.

Have you tried Naomi Goodsir? Which of her perfumes should I sample next?

Kisses – Sandra

 

(ED: All photos supplied by Sandra unless specified)

Vanille Exquise by Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal for Annick Goutal 2004

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Val the Cookie Queen

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Summer Greetings APJ

“I Am A Snotty Perfumista Blog Post”

You would think that I would have enough of vanilla at work and actually I do. I buy 18 litres every couple of years. It breaks the bank but I need it. I have heard that some people dab vanilla extract onto their skin. I do not. Also never had any desire for a straight up vanilla perfume.

Vanessa from Bonkers About Perfume gave me a large decant of Annick Goutal`s Songes EdT recently. Having somehow by passed Annick Goutal in my perfume passion I was totally smitten by it. Then as most perfumistas do jumped online to read all about it. I saw that there was also a EdP of Songes and next trip to Linz had me dropping in for a spritz. Except they didn´t have it. I instead grabbed the tester of Vanille Exquise EdT and gave myself a good soaking. I went back to the shop another two times to repeat the process.

Readers, I bought a bottle.

Vanille Exquise by Annick Goutal 2004

Vanille Exquise by Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal

Vanille Exquise Annick Goutal FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Angelica, almond, vanilla, musk, sandalwood, guaiac wood.

The best thing is that it’s an EdT that I can soak myself with. Unlike many who have problems with their frags lasting more than a couple of hours, my skin is nuclear. I think this is the first perfume I can really spray to death. It still lasts hours but I can wear a ton with no fear of asphyxiation.

Although it wears fairly close to the skin it leaves a delightful trail. Semi-sweet, warm, soft and enhances my cookie smelling natural self. Hahahahahahaha. It´s aromatic, comforting, but it´s elegant too. It´s not a cake vanilla, nor a childlike vanilla. Absolutely gorgeous in the hot weather. There does seem to be slight pepperiness to it. The whole perfume is light yet persistent. It just smells so damn good. I reckon it´s worth a try even if you think you don´t like vanilla. But what do I know?

I totally shocked myself buying this. Ridiculous huh? It feels like the odd one out in my collection. Which is really just absolutely head up-my-back-side snotty perfumista behaviour and I am ashamed. Anyone else out there find themselves loving something they they think they shouldn´t?

Vanille Exquise Annick Goutal Val July 2017

Further reading: Now Smell This and I Smell Therefore I Am
David Jones Australia has $158/100ml EdT (FREE Australian Delivery)
Surrender To Chance have samples starting from $3/ml

Little fluffy cloud bussis
CQ

1001 Ouds by Camille Goutal + Isabelle Doyen for Annick Goutal Les Absolus 2015

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Portia

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Hey there APJ Crew,

So many oudhs on sale. I love Annick Goutal and wanted to see how the house would treat oudh. Luckily Surrender To Chance has samples because we can’t get these to look at in Australia. Here’s my experience.

1001 Ouds by Annick Goutal Les Absolus 2015

1001 Ouds by Camille Goutal + Isabelle Doyen

1001-ouds-annick-goutal-fragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Agarwood (oud), papyrus
Heart: Agarwood (oud), rose, pimento
Base: Agarwood (oud), birch, guaiac wood, myrhh

Ouds? Well kind of. It’s clearly a synthetic rendering of the oudh experience. There is plenty of the band aid, rubber tyres and eucalyptus hiding inside but not so much of the barnyard. If you are an oudh aficionado then you may think 1001 Ouds is a poor cashgrab by Annick Goutal to add the middle Eastern market and jump on the oud bandwagon. Maybe that’s true BUT if you don’t really like oudh in its heavier incarnations this could very easily be a good gateway oudh. While showing some of the less confronting facets of the accord it is far less challenging. Here we have a warm, comforting fragrance that nods to the Middle East from a very comfy recliner with a large drink.

1001-ouds-by-annick-goutal-les-absolus-warm-colours-behind-black-grid-pdiPDI

The opening does have a sweet dry grass accord nestling softly into the oudh and I like that the opening lasts long minutes before we see any sign of the rose making it’s appearance. When it does come rose is not treated in the modern Montale rose/oudh style. Here it is completely backup, a pretty filigree to add luster and I find it very difficult to even notice the pimento, which is a shame because I was interested.

The birch is clean in the beginning and doesn’t feel like it’s painting tar onto the back of your throat and sinuses until well into dry-down. It is happily offset by the myrrh but also smells to me like there might be some vanilla holding the bottom half of the fragrance together.

I think 1001 Ouds is definitely an oudh for people who don’t like oudh. Wearable even to work if you are lucky enough to be able to go fragranced. I think it’s also a very nice date frag and will try it out at the movies tonight with Jin…….

1001-ouds-by-annick-goutal-les-absolus-pinecone-bfleeson-pixabayPDI

 

Further reading: Perfume Shrine and ScentBound
FragranceNet have a few Testers left at AUD$120/75 after Coupon
Surrender To Chance has samples from $4.50/.05ml

Did you try this when it was released?
Portia xx

Eau de Sud by Annick Goutal 1996

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Post by Portia

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Hello Fragrance Family,

Few niche houses have the success or longevity of Annick Goutal. Writing about Nuit Etoilee and wearing it over the Christmas season reminded me to grab out the rest of my Annick Goutal collection. I’ve whittled it down to the favourite few, maybe 6 FBs and some large decants. Here’s one of my oft worn faves.

Eau de Sud by Annick Goutal 1996

Eau de Sud annick-goutal-fragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin orange, basil, grapefruit, bergamot
Heart: Mint, lime, lemon verbena, jasmine
Base: Vetiver, patchouli, oakmoss

Even though the citrus in Eau de Sud is a little sticky it still feels cooling in the heat of Sydney summer. I love it too as a summer reminder in the dead of winter so even if you Northern Hemisphere peeps feel like a spritz it will be perfect. So much citrus in the opening and there is a soft minty pop to keep it refreshing. Add to that a salty zing like eating oranges after swimming in salt water or a Margarita. My nose smells creaminess and I am unsure of the origin, maybe the jasmine adds a creamy note? Anyway, I get a balmy smoothness that equates to creamy in my brain, it’s really galbanum-esque. If I give myself a second spritz after about 20 minutes the basil is quite noticeable compared to the original application.

eau-de-sud-by-annick-goutal-cavendish-harvey-confectioneryCavendish & Harvey

Eau de Sud reminds me of this hard lollies that used to come in a tin with loads of super fine white sugar powder around them, do you remember? They were deliciously sweet with recreations of fruits but had only the merest tenuous connection to fruit, more of a fruit allusion. Here the fruits are more nameable but still that sweetness and mild sharpness is completely here. We used to suck them on planes to stop our ears popping and Mum would use them to give us a sugar hit if we looked like we were flagging and needed to be alert. Especially useful before exams or after a footy game.

The body and dry down of Eau de Sud are still salty/creamy all the way through but the whole fragrance dries out considerably and leaves a dustiness over the citrus and adds a walking over summers-browned-grass brittleness. So easy to wear and longevity of around 4 hours maximum, the first hour sillage is moderate before dropping back to soft.

My bottle is old, apparently Annick Goutal have remade Eau de Sud in 2016 and its note list is bergamot, mandarin orange, grapefruit and resins.

eau-de-sud-by-annick-goutal-nature-dry-texture-grass-sea-pexelsPDI

Further reading: EauMG and APJ
FragranceShop have the old men’s packaging Testers $44/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

Are you an Eau de Sud fan?
Portia xx

Nuit Étoilée EdT by Isabelle Doyen for Annick Goutal 2012

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Portia

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Hello Fume Fiends,

We forget in the far off lands of 2016 that Annick Goutal the fragrance brand has been around since 1980. Many of its fragrances were groundbreaking fragile beauties that thrilled and surprised fragrance lovers. Mixed with its determined homespun style, interesting note combinations and eye rollingly beautiful floral concoctions they became a hit with the newly borne perfumistas in the heady days of the 1980s and 90s. Sables, Folavril, Eau de Monsieur, Passion and Eau d’Hadrien were ground breaking scents. Now known by perfumistas as a safe, easy to wear brand some of the wow factor has definitely been lost. Especially through reformulation, the changing out of the vibrantly coloured bottles and the bland introduction of plain glass by AmorePacific, the south Korean owners of Annick Goutal. So it comes as quite a surprise to find something so outlandish and weird in the collection as Nuit Étoilée.

Nuit Étoilée EdT by Annick Goutal 2012

Nuit Étoilée by Isabelle Doyen

nuit-etoilee-annick-goutal-fragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Citron, sweet orange, peppermint
Heart: Siberian pine, fir resin
Base: Angelica seed, tonka, immortal

If you like to smell your fragrances 5 plus hours later then most of the Annick Goutal range will give you the shits. Nuit Étoilée EdT is no exception and you better have bought the 100ml bottle because respritzing becomes addictive.

nuit-etoilee-annick-goutal-planters_punch-wikicommonsWikiCommons

ZING!! Bright citrus and mint, like alcoholic fruit punch on a hot summers day or Mojitos in the evening. A fresh burst of wake up and live. Every time I spritz it feels like an energy burst for the brain. The mint lasts only minutes and I’m left with a woodsy citrus, green and dry. As the heart dries off on my skin all I’m left with is a very soft wash of musks and something greenish but barely noticeable. This whole process takes about an hour, unless I spray on fabric or card and then I get at least 4 hours on fabric and on card I can smell Nuit Étoilée next morning.

Nuit Étoilée is going to be my Christmas Eve scent this year. In the fresh woodsiness I find an Aussie summer whispered hint of a wintery, white Christmas that still fits with our 30C+ heat, and yes, there will be fruit punch with fresh mint in it. What would an Aussie Christmas be without it?

nuit-etoilee-annick-goutal-beach-santa-pexelsPDI

Further reading: EauMG and Non Blonde
FragranceX has some old blue EdT stock for AUD$75/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples from $3/ml

Have you tried Nuit Étoilée? Does your family do alcoholic fruit punch with fresh mint chopped into it?
Portia xx

 

L’Ile au Thé by Camille Goutal and Isabelle Doyen for Annick Goutal 2015

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Post by Portia

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Hello Fragrant Lovers,

This tea scent is based on Jeju Island, the South Korean honeymoon island. Where newlywed South Korean couples have their 3 day honeymoon and wear completely matching honeymoon outfits. It’s so cute, they dress EXACTLY the same, except for some minor gender differentiation. The island itself is quite large and it has loads of fun stuff to do including gardens, parks, caves and caverns, fishing, there is even a mountain that you must climb (the crew did but I stayed home and read my book).

Korea 2014 Jeju Love Seat Jin:Portia

Above you can see us in one of the fields grown expressly for Jeju honeymooners to have their photos taken in smoochy, loving positions. They have various love seats and love furniture, very twee and old fashioned but surprisingly fun. It was really lovely that we got to do it and as stupid as it seems I felt it was one of those moments of pure happiness that I will often look back at and smile. In fact, the moment I read that L’Ile au Thé was about Jeju my mind went instantly to the tranquil, sunlit moment in a sea of flowers.

L’Ile au Thé by Annick Goutal 2015

L’Ile au Thé by Camille Goutal and Isabelle Doyen

L’Ile au Thé Annick Goutal FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin pulp, Citruses
Heart: Osmanthus, apricot, tea, mandarin blossom
Base: Green tea absolut, white musk

Citrus, in a burst so ripe and juicy, lightly sugared and the dry tea is already giving it nuance and body. A wonderful, fun, uplifting open that is so pretty it just screams spring and renewal. After about 5 minutes the pith comes through, a feeling more than a scent, it’s soft and sueded and still a lovely fresh citrus abounds.

A cologne-ish fragrance without the usual herbaceousness. In L’Ile au Thé it’s all about citrus and tea with the slightest hint at salt air. Simple. pretty, pleasurable and extremely wearable. during the heart I get a lovely piquant lime zest smell that is both radiant and fizzy, such a great way to wake up the senses in Sydney’s current Indian Summer (24C today and glorious). It’s put a real spring in my step.

All of these things L’Ile au Thé is, yet sometimes I wear a fragrance for a few days and wonder if the world really needs another citrus cologne, no matter how lovely. Would I put down hard earned cash for it? Maybe, probably not, my collection has ample in this style. If I had none or one cologne, if I was thinking of buying for a friend that likes citrus, tea or white musks then definitely. It’s not a very expensive fragrance in the scheme of current frag prices, though $149 is a lot of money, and it’s 100ml. So I could comfortably spritz lavishly. One thing in L’Ile au Thé’s favour is that it lasts longer than most Annick Goutal’s and most colognes. It also has a dazzling citrussy sillage that I find really appealing.

L'Ile au Thé Annick Goutal passport picAnnick Goutal

From Annick Goutal site: “Camille Goutal and Isabelle Doyen invite us on a trip to Korea, on the paradise island of Jeju, known for its charm, the beauty of its landscapes and ranked as one of the wonders of nature…..
L’Ile au Thé is an infusion of well-being, an invigorating and soothing perfume to be shared.”

Further reading: Perfume Posse and Candy Perfume Boy
LuckyScent has $149/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4.50/ml

Have you been to Jeju Island or any part of South Korea?
Portia xx

 

Turtle Vetiver Front by Isabelle Doyen for Les Nez 2012

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Post by Portia

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Hiya Fume Family,

Do you have a few scents that got away. You tried it when it was released, loved it but couldn’t afford it at the time? Or you were going to buy it but something else caught your eye? Or the craving didn’t start till well after your first sniff?

Turtle Vetiver Front by Les Nez 2012

Turtle Vetiver Front by Isabelle Doyen

Turtle Vetiver Front Les Nez FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Vetiver, coconut milk, moss, ambergris

I don’t remember when or how I got this decant. Turtle Vetiver Front was never on my radar and though I’ve loved vetiver as a note and also for its innumerable uses in modern society it’s not a note I pursue. My skin throws much different fragrance to me than what I read about in others reviews too so maybe I was let down in my expectations on first sniffing. Anyway, I dismissed Turtle Vetiver Front on my first round with it.

Turtle Vetiver Front Les Nez Vetiver WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Fast forward a ways to quite recently and I was writing about Vetiver Dance 07 by Tauer Perfumes and trying to see if anything in my history would correlate. Anyway, I came across this decant again and had a little sniff and though it wasn’t what I was looking for at the time the soft focus sweet swamp and light, lilting greenness of Turtle Vetiver Front made me want to come back and wear it again. I wanted to get my thoughts down because this is the last dregs of my decant and there are no bottles to be found. Maybe I’ll buy a decant from Surrender To Chance and get to live it some more.

Imagine vetiver. All the ink, swamp, smoke, dry rasp, oily, grassy, twiggy, metallic and salty aspects. Now take all of these amazing facets and remove the spikes and rough edges, shake to blend and give the wearer little or no hint of notes, create a new scent of them all like looking at the world through a lightly frosty green tinted pair of glasses. The edges are blurred and vegetally sweetened, one spritz and the whole world seems a little cooler and a lot smoother and there is air between the notes, sheer yet fragrant.

As the heart burns away my skin chemistry leaves me with a dry vetiver and a lightly salted breeze over sun warmed skin which dwindles and dwindles without collapsing to fade.

DAMN, I wish I had more of this….

Turtle Vetiver Front Les Nez Green World Alosh Bennett FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Grain de Musc and Non Blonde
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $7/ml

What is one of your lost scents? Which one got away for you?
Portia xxx