Hard Leather by Jerome Epinette for LM Parfums 2014

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Post by FeralJasmine

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Sometimes civilized people have to agree to disagree. There is a lot written about the fecal aspects of LM Parfums’ Hard Leather. To which I say: Really? Seriously? Have these people ever actually smelled feces?

Hard Leather by Jerome Epinette for LM Parfums 2014

A Night in Hard Leather

Hard Leather LM Parfums Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Leather, rum
Heart: Iris, honey
Base: Sandalwood, cedar, agarwood (oud), olibanum, vanilla, styrax

That is SO not what I smell. Initially, I smell clean, healthy barnyard, the kind you get with a really good oud. All the animals here are bursting with animal vitality, and you can smell it. The stroll through the barnyard lasts about 15 minutes on me. Then you come to the rough heavy wooden door into the tack room, and walk in among the leather. Through the scent of the wooden walls and the oiled and polished saddles and bridles hanging all around you, you smell a clean, vital male behind you. He is your wild lover, your animus, the one you’ve never confessed to anyone that you wanted, the one that you dream about and are sorry when you wake, the one you can only see out of the corner of your eye because he disappears when you turn to look straight at him. Dionysus. That’s what I smell.

Hard Leather LM Parfums  Tack Room FotopediaPhoto Stolen Fotopedia

If I were in charge, which I certainly am not, all men in my vicinity would wear Hard Leather at least occasionally. Ah, what a world it would be.

Does that mean that a woman can’t wear this scent? Not by a long shot. There is a honeyed vanillic softness to the leather that makes it lovely on women. Probably all of us have a Dionysus aspect if we admit it, and scent is a splendid way to channel your inner incubus.

So where does the talk about feces come from? I think it’s possible that some people smell all strong animalics as having notes of urine or excrement. I have heard similar talk about Muscs Koublai Khan, which has animal notes but no urine or poop to most of us. To noses of the Fresh’n’Clean type, anything that suggests nature may suggest dirt or even excrement. Or it may be a genetic difference in the way we smell things, which is known to exist with some scents. In this context I always think of Hermès: Vanille Gallant, a lovely vanilla-lily scent to many, a fishy disaster to some.

Hard Leather LM Parfums Horse Beach Sunset Jimmy McIntyre FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: The Scented Hound and
First In Fragrance have €295/100ml and 9/4ml Samples

So, sample first, by all means. You should always sample first, because your olfactory universe is not like anybody else’s. But if part of your own olfactory realm is out on the fringes, beyond civilization and governed only by natural law, the primal beauty of Hard Leather is likely to produce an interesting degree of shock and awe.

FeralJasmine

 

Trefle Pur by Jerome Epinette for Atelier Cologne 2010

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Post by Maya

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Hello APJ,

When my daughter Tamara found out that I was working on a review for APJ, she asked me to pick one of her favorite perfumes and do a review on it. I agreed to work with HER on a review. She has a great nose and her perfume impressions are as she puts it “abstract” and I should add, usually, but not always, single words which I make into sentences. That’s become my job in this collaboration.

We decided to pick one of 4 fragrances. We sniffed the first one and I asked, “What do you get?” She said with a big smile, “It smells good!” After I stopped laughing, I asked, “And what else?” She replied, “It smells good!” This happened with 2 more fragrances. We chose the one that when I asked the question, she answered, “Leprechauns”. So leprechauns it is!

Trefle Pur Atelier Cologne 2010

Trefle Pur Atelier Cologne FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bitter orange, cardamom, sweet basil
Heart: Clover, violet leaves, Tunisian neroli
Base: Moss, patchouli, musk

Trefle Pur opens bright, crisp, citrusy, and slightly green. After about 5 minutes, a little sweetness comes in and the crispness lightens a little. It stays sweet, but it’s not a floral type of sweetness. It keeps an underlying citrus note and a subtle spice appears. It’s during this opening that “I think of leprechauns, lush green fields, four leaf clovers, and streams.”

Trefle Pur Atelier 4-leaf Clover wikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Later on the “notes combine so I can’t really pick out anything specific. It becomes a little, bright, sweet, and spicy (not like pepper or cinnamon, a subtle spice) scent. It smells good!” Now is when it’s spring – a combination of sunlight, budding flowers and moss.

It wears close to the skin and lasts a few hours.

I asked her, “When would you wear it?” And she answered, “When I felt like it.”

Trefle Pur Atelier Cologne pxleyesPhoto Stolen pxleyes

Then I asked her if she minded me writing about her and how this review came to be.
“As long as you don’t tell my personal secrets, we’re all good.”
“What personal secrets?”
“The ones I don’t tell you about, so we’re all good.”

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and EauMG
LuckyScent start at $70/30ml to $175/200ml and have samples
Surrender To Chance have $3/ml or $19/7.5ml manufacturers mini

Now that I’ve stopped laughing, I have to ask: Have you tried Trefle Pur and what are your feelings about it if you have? I’m afraid to ask what you think of this review.

Maya