Scent Diary: 12.6 – 18.6.2017




Hi there APJ,

A full week with Aunty Tracey down from Cairns. We ran from pillar to post. HEAVEN!
Portia xx

Scent Diary: 12.6 – 18.6.2017

Monday 12:

I stayed up late this morning watching TV. everyone else was sound asleep. Just before bed I gave myself 6 big spritzes of Neela Vermeire Creations Mohur EdP.

Neela Vermeire Mohur EdP May 2017

Today was a hang around the house with Aunty Tracey, watch Netflix, walk dogs, home made brunch, more Netflix, Pizza Hut dinner and leave her to watch more TV while I went and wrote Trivia Q&A kinda day.

Haven’t even put more perfume on till right now. DIOR Mitzah, and loads of it.

Tuesday 13:

Stuff happened but I didn’t write it down or take photos.

Lancome Tresor Midnight Rose arrived in the post. I’ve been going through decants and decided it was time to plunge when I saw it for an excellent price. Wore it to work and got two very interested compliments from people who LOVED it.

For my SOTBed I went crazy with Van Clef & Arpels Ambre Imperial. Excellent dry, cool amber for sleeping in.

Wednesday 14:

Jin had his birthday today but as he is a dirty spoilsport we are not allowed to celebrate. I brought my Aunty Tracey down to Sydney as a surprise guest and the three of us had a very low key morning with presents and cakes. It was cheesy but fun, we lit him a couple of candles and sang Happy Birthday. Please don’t send him any birthday wishes because it makes him really uncomfortable.

Below are his gifts from Aunty Tracey and me. He has been wanting that Cartier since 2013. I’m a very slow boyfriend but he was really excited to get it. How cute is the mug Aunty Tracey had made? Love it.

Jin made us hot Korean nut and sugar filled pancakes for brekky and we all watched some TV before we sped off to out respective days.
I had a large perfume influx from a friend who I bought a bunch from a mate selling off the good stuff to put a special needs student through school. What better reason to buy perfume than the ultimate top priority, educating our youth. So, I went a little crazy. Guerlain Cuir Beluga, Guerlain Tonka Imperial, Neela Vermeire Nichola, Neela Vermeire Trayee, Neela Vermeire Rahele. Expensive but ultimately helping so I feel pretty good about myself.

Tonight for work I wore lashings of Guerlain Cuir Beluga. It was beautiful. Here I am dining with my mate Wendy and Aunty Tracey.

Thursday 15:

Up early at Chez Turbo. Aunty Tracey, Jin & I were off and out to meet some of the Nursing Aunties. My Mum studied nursing and 10 of them graduated and stayed so close over the years. We went to visit Mum’s grave and the grave of another, Auntie Norma Dally-Watkins. So we met up for coffee and then did the visits. After that we went and had the most delicious Yum-Cha.


Then the night was full of trivia again. Aunty Tracey came and played with the Celts at Kings Park Tavern. They won and it was a great night.

Friday 16:

Neela Vermeire Creations Pichola was my choice of scent this morning. It was a perfect accompaniment to my busy day running around with the crew. Aunty Tracey, Jin & I jumped on a train to town.

First stop was David Jones Food Hall cafe in the patisserie area. After a bummer of an altercation about cutting cakes so we could share it all got really good and we all caffeinated ourselves and sugared up.

Then we shopped. Both Anna-Maria and Aunty Tracey had their lips done at David Jones DIOR counter by the make-up artists. Don’t they look fabulous in their glam reds? Anna-Maria spritzed DIOR Leather Oud, Aunty Tracey wore DIOR New Look 1947. They smelled wonderful.

Everyone bought at least one new piece of clothing. I grabbed a really cute Christmas style jumper and two new pairs of socks. It was the annual 30% Clearance Sale, how could we resist?

Anna-Maria and I bumped into Jules who is the Oroton regional manager. Anna-Maria has a very specific bag she wants and they have sold out of it across Australia but Jules has one, a slightly smaller size but still pretty much what Anna-Maria wants. I’ve passed on the details to her kids for Birthday shopping.

Then after running around for hours we were all pooped and needed some more caffeine and sugar so we adjourned to the Tea Salon in Sydney City Westfield and shared a cheesecake with cream & ice cream between us and everyone had their own special pot of tea. It was really lavish.

Quickly home to refresh and then we rushed into our favourite Korean BarBQ where we met up with Kath, Alice and Tina. Food, laughs, conversation and general mayhem ensued. These are the times when I am so happy. We all just hang and chatter and eat.

For bed I spritzed Guerlain Tonka Imperial. Sweet, nutty, tobacco with a cool incense backdrop. Very nice for our current night time temps. Going to bed now. Absolutely fricken buggered.

Saturday 17:

Hung around the house today. I wore loads of Van Cleef & Arpels Amber Imperial. It was lovely. There’s something about its dusty dryness that I find very comforting and wearable. YUM!

Did a fundraiser tonight for a local Football Club. My bath scent was Olympic Orchids Amber & Labdanum Bath Oil, moisturiser Madonna Truth or Dare Naked and fragrance Huitiemme Art Ambre Cerulean.

Aunty Tracey and I had a midnight Whitney Houston video singalong. we are both terrible singers and it was a hoot. Heaving breasts and tears streaming as we warbled. WOW! Now I’m so fucking depressed. Crying silently in front of the computer. She was so beautiful, talented, had everything. If she couldn’t survive what hope the rest of us mere mortals? Whitney was my voice for years as I mimed in shows in Australia and around the world. So sad, such waste.

Sunday 18:

Bedtime. 2am. A single spritz of Montana Parfum de Peau. Should be parfum de PEE. There’s a definite cat wee vibe going on here, it makes me laugh whenever I spritz it. the wee gives way to screechy white florals and ass. All ass zero class, I love it.

Jumped out of bed and it’s Aunty Tracey’s last day. We ran to Kath’s house to fix the lights in the kitchen. While there we also cleaned out the exhaust fans in the main bathroom, amazing how much more air they move when air can get through and the blades are clean.

Then we went to Bunnings for a Sausage Sizzle Brunch and to get a refund on shit lights that we’d removed. They were so amazingly accommodating with the store voucher, extremely happy.

Then bath time before work tonight. I had it extra hot and loved every second with mountains of bubbles from L’Artisan La Chasse aux Papillons. My body lotion Robert Piguet Fracas and scent overlaying all Serge Lutens Datura Noir. Yes, I wanted to smell like a spring night flowering bouquet.


Now it’s your turn. What happened in your week? See any friends, try any new fragrances or revisit old ones?
Share your highs & lows with us please. We love to read your life moments.
Portia xx

Perfume Discontinuations: Grab them before they are gone




Hi all,

It’s a common thing in perfumista land that you only really start paying attention to a perfume when you hear rumours of discontinuation. You ignore it happily until suddenly you realise it could be too late. Then FOMO sets in – Fear of Missing Out. Oh no!

I got thinking about this recently when, after YEARS of dithering, I finally bought a bottle of Sarah Jessica Parker Covet. This one may have been discontinued some time ago and I’d decided not to bother until a chain of discount chemists in Australia suddenly started stocking it. Cheap – $20. I bought one, and no regrets. Lavender and chocolate; it should not work but it does.

Perfume Discontinuations

Grab them before they are gone

What else have I made a wild grab for, and what have I let go?

Covet FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mint, geranium leaves, Sicilian lemon, lavender, chocolate notes
Heart: Honeysuckle, magnolia, lily of the valley
Base: Cashmere wood, musk, vetiver, teak wood, amber

Perfume Discontinuations: The Ones I Grabbed

Sarah Jessica Parker Covet, as mentioned.

Bvlgari Black. Vanilla and fresh tyre rubber! I bought a back-up for my son to own and me to borrow.

Lancome Cuir de Lancome. . A cult leather. I bought mine while it still going for about $50.

Rochas Tocade. A laughing vanilla fragrance, this one is not discontinued as far as I know, just re-packaged. Re-packaging always makes the perfume enthusiast nervous, and I grabbed a bottle.

Yves Saint Laurent Y.  Same as for Tocade. It’s always worth grabbing a chypre if you think it’s under threat. It probably is.


Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Casablanca lily, Black locust, White carnation
Heart: Golden pollen, Gold dust, Violet leaf
Base: Amber, Indian patchouli, Resins

Perfume Discontinuations: The Ones I Let Go

If there’s a bottle out there with my name on it, someone else can have it.

Donna Karan Gold. This has been cheap at the discounters for years and you can still get it. I have tested it thoroughly and decided it’s not for me, but it is wonderful stuff. I’d rather leave a bottle available for someone who loves monster lily perfumes. I don’t, it seems.

Parfums de Nicolai Le Temps d’une Fete. I should love this green wonder but somehow it has never moved me. Anyway, I have YSL Y, as noted, so I’m happy.

Fendi Theorema. I have a decant but I just can’t get on board with Theorema. It’s too much of a gourmand for me. It can still be had I think, not sure of the prices.

Yves Saint Laurent Yvresse. Again, a re-packaging. I could have bought a 75 ml bottle this classic fruity chypre for $60 in the old packaging but I just don’t love it. My only regret is that prices on Yvresse are now so high I could easily have got my money back three times over if I had bought that bottle.


Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Gardenia, Neroli, Tuberose
Heart: Benzoin, Jasmine, Lily
Base: Amber, Musk, Vanilla

Perfume Discontinuations: The One I Missed

Oh darn!

Madonna Truth or Dare. I tried TD Naked but didn’t like it much. The original was apparently not widely distributed in Australia and I decided not to bother. It was a wonderful white floral, I gather. I should have bought it when it was going cheap on but I didn’t. Now it’s gone. I’m stupid.

What about you? What are the ones that got away from you? Any regrets?
Keep spritzing everyone!

Cookie Queen: Perfumes I Have Worn In 2016


Post by Val the Cookie Queen


Good Day APJ.

What is a REAL blogger anyway?

Over the years I have thoroughly enjoyed bloggers’ roundups of best perfumes including what have they have been wearing. Not considering myself a proper blogger it did not occur me that I could do my own list. However, it will be four years with APJ for me next year so bloody hell, I will award myself the status of “blogger”

Cookie Queen: Perfumes I Have Worn In 2016

I do not wear samples. I try samples out on my left wrist, and if I get over excited perhaps on both wrists. I only wear perfumes that I have full bottles of. (All perfumistas have idiosyncratic behaviours – don´t you?)


VERO PROFUMO. All of them of course! Most worn this year would be the Kikis, I nearly finished a bottle of the juicy, delicious, erotic, sadly under-rated Kiki EdP. The Kiki Extrait is laced with ambergris and is so divine I worked my way through at least 15 mls of it. The Kiki Voile a Prozac of a perfume. 🙂

HERMÈS. I received a bottle of Hermès Doblis as a gift at the beginning of the year, a belated birthday present. Probably the most exquisite perfume I have ever been given. Also in heavy rotation was the Muguet Porcelaine. This stunning lily-of-the-valley is wonderful in cool weather. Cuir d’Ange, a favourite for the last couple of years, was worn as much ever. And more recently Osmanthe Yunnan also fab in cold weather, although if you believe all you read you would be forgiven for assuming it is a summer scent.


CHANEL. Bois des Iles Parfum and EdT. Cuir de Russie Parfum and EdT. Misia EdT. Coromandel EdT. And the heliotrope heavy Boy EdP.

GUERLAIN. Shalimar Extrait Vintage, Shalimar Extrait current. Shalimar Eau de Cologne.


AROMA M. Geisha Noire EdP and Oil. Vanilla Hinoki EdP and Oil.

LANCÔME. Cuir de Lancôme.

winner getentrepreneurial


Hermès Galop d’Hermès Parfum

I don´t want to get carried away with my newfound status as a real blogger so I will only select one. Without a second thought it goes to Hermès Galop d’Hermès Parfum. A poised and elegant perfume. The rose, the quince, the saffron and leather. It´s a work of art.

There are a number of new fragrances that I did try and enjoy, but they did not make the full bottle grade. I love the scene, the people, the perfume shows, and the vibe of the fragrant world. But the many hundred of new launches have me running for cover. I do own other perfumes, including a number of Lutens but this was not their year.

What perfumes do you REALLY wear huh? I am über-interested.

Real Blogger Bussis

Golden Oldies: Worn For Life


Post by Anne-Marie


Hi all

What is the perfume you have worn the longest in your life?

Golden Oldies: Worn For Life

Chanel No 19 Eau de Parfum Chanel FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Neroli, bergamot, green notes
Heart: Iris, narcissus, rose, lily of the valley
Base: Sandalwood, leather, vetiver, oakmoss

I’ve worn Chanel No 19 on and off for … ahem … something like thirty years. I don’t know how I could afford it but I bought my first 50ml bottle of the EDT in the mid-80s when I was a student. Between then and 1991 (still a student) I went through that bottle and bought two more. I still have them all; the first completely drained, the latter two are nearly used and rather on the turn now. (Why did I buy a third before the second was drained? I can’t remember.)

In later years I added more bottles of the EDT and EDP to my collection. I still wear it No 19. It’s the perfume I’ve worn the longest, more than half my life.

In those early years I also bought Estée Lauder White Linen, Lancome Magie Noire, Laura Ashley No. 1, and Eau Sauvage (two bottles). Later, after I moved cities, I remember buying Paloma Picasso, Patou Joy, Estee Lauder Pleasures, and Eau de Givenchy. The last was a souvenir of a trip to the UK and Europe in 1996. I bought it in Paris. Squeee!


This was all before I had started having children in 1998, and ceased spending money on perfume for several years.

I don’t wear any of those regularly any more. I’ve moved on from the Lauders, as you do. Paloma Picasso has some sad memories. Magie Noire I wear occasionally still. Joy I never really liked and still don’t. I bought it to celebrate the fact that I could actually afford a perfume once touted as ‘the most costly perfume in the world’. By 1993 it wasn’t, but I loved the idea of it. Eau de Givenchy has to compete every summer with a clutch of other eaux, though it is still the best of the bunch probably.


Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Grapefruit, mandarin, bergamot, mint, red fruit
Heart: Ylang-ylang, honeysuckle, pure jasmine, narcissus, tuberose, lily-of-the-valley, rose, cyclamen, orris root
Base: Sandalwood, musk, cedar, oakmoss

Anyway – I’m wondering what is the perfume you have worn the longest, and which you still wear? What is the perfume to which you keep returning, no matter how many other perfumed paths you have explored?

Does this long-standing choice suggest something fundamental and abiding about your taste? Note, for instance, that my early perfume collection contained no gourmands, and no orientals except Magie Noire which is part-chypre anyway. Note also that I skipped the marine/ozonic perfumes of the 90s altogether. Thank God. I’d rather squirt L’Eau d’Issey in my eye than wear it on skin.
Or, have you completely left behind all your early perfume explorations and discarded those early, embarrassing bottles?

I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Until next time, keep spritzing everyone!

Mainstream Mania: Department + Drug Store Gems


Post by Portia


Heya Crew,

My mate Scott and I often talk about our love for Department Store and Drug Store (Chemist in Australia) fragrances. Many of our vintage loves are from the genre, also some of the designer and celebrity scents, as well as the huge multinational beauty companies. The mainstream has an enormous range and encompasses some of the best and worst of todays perfume market. So today we ask you a question……

Mainstream Mania

Department + Drug Store Gems

What do you love from the Department or Drug Store?

We spend so much time talking vintage, niche, indie and natural on the Scentblkggoshpere but what is your easy to find, grab it anywhere, no need to hoard it fragrance? I have a few but let’s chat about two nearly empty samples I’ve had rattling around in my box and one bottle that I adore today.

Tabu Dana FragranticaFragrantica

Dana Tabu EdC 1932

Top: Bergamot, Spices, Coriander, Neroli, Orange
Hear: Clove, Ylang-ylang, Oriental rose, Jasmine, Narcissus, Clover
Base: Amber, Benzoin, Oakmoss, Musk, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Cedar, Civet

Tabu is one of my favourites, it’s so pickable in public and one of my friends Lyndall has worn it forever. I have some of the older perfume and EdT but my absolute favourite version is the modern EdC. The opening notes smell like a sari shop in Alwar, Rajasthan that I love to shop at when in India. No idea what I’m smelling really because Tabu smells only of itself. Interestingly for me Jean Carles who created Tabu also created such fragrant luminaries as Shocking by Schiaparelli, Miss Dior, Indiscrete by Lucien Lelong and Ma Griffe by Carven: quite a roll call.

L`Eau Ambree PradaFragrantica

Prada L’Eau Ambrée 2009

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, Citruses
Heart: Patchouli, Rose
Base: Ambergris, Opoponax, Vanilla

Prada L’Eau Ambree is so weirdly named because to me most of the fragrance smells of anything but amber. The cool, wet, juicy citrus opening that morphs into a dirty patchouli/rose and wet cardboard. Finally I get a resinous salted vanilla that is completely inedible but dark and mysterious. I love the mood changes and byplay in L’Eau Ambree, it’s all about surprise and it never plays it safe. It’s not often talked about by the perfumista crew and that’s strange to me because it’s a solid fragrance that tells an enjoyable story.

Tresor In Love Lancome FragranticaFragrantica

Lancôme Trésor in Love 2010

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, Pear, Nectarine, Peach, Pink pepper
Heart: Jasmine, Peach, Taif rose, Violet
Base: Musk, Virginia cedar

Recently my mate Victoria at EauMG talked about Trésor In Love and I have always gravitated towards Lancôme Midnight Rose in the same bottle but purple. While looking for something else I came across 5ml of Trésor In Love and have been using it as my morning wake up scent to the point that it’s almost gone. As Victoria says, “It reminds me of a many perfumes launched around the same time that are like an abstract fruity-floral with clean, synth ambers.” Somehow though Trésor In Love is a more comfortable, easy wear, life is fun, zingy fragrance than most of the others and I find myself really enjoying the ride.

So what is your Mainstream Mania? Share your readily available favourites in the comments below please?
Portia xx

FLANKERS!! Let’s Talk About Flankers


Post by Anne-Marie


Howdy folks, it’s Anne-Marie, here to chat about the issues that matter in this crazy perfume-y world. Today, it’s … yay! Flankers!

FLANKERS!! Let’s Talk About Flankers

A flanker, as I’m sure you know, is a perfume which ‘flanks’ a pillar release. It perpetuates the name of the original but otherwise they may have little in common. Often the flanker has much less money spent on it and will be chucked at the market to see if it sticks.
It tends to be a given that flankers are not worthy of the perfume lover’s attention, but here are some which I have enjoyed.

EauPremier stylefrizzStylefrizz

Chanel No 5 Eau Premiere (2007, and re-packaged in 2015). The first flanker (as opposed to different form or concentration) to the 1921 classic. It is beautiful variant, less aldehydic than No 5: sunshiny, and with a lovely lemony top note. A perfect all-occasion fragrance. Apparently sales were disappointing, and we have a new flanker to look forward to this year, No 5 L’Eau.

Shalimar: what can you say without making Shalimar lovers’ blood boil? Well, I love Eau de Shalimar (2008/9) and Shalimar Cologne Eau de Toilette (2015). The lime top-note in EdS is admittedly a little weird, but I find the fragrance very relaxing overall. The Cologne? Oh my – gorgeous! Lemon instead of lime, very bright but beautifully blended with vanilla. It’s addictive but not (for me at least) especially foodie. Neither these two flankers, nor any of the Shalimar flankers as far as I know, are as heavy on the smoke and leather as the original.


I bought Chanel No 19 Poudre (2011) when it came out but sold it eventually. The iris is superb, the powder is not stifling, and the fragrance wears like a silk slip. But the white musk in the base seems timid and produces a lack-lustre result overall.

Sometimes a flanker stands confidently next to its pillar. Hermes L’Ambre des Merveilles (2012) trounces the original Eau de Merveilles for me, perhaps because I simply have trouble smelling the Eau. L’Ambre has a miraculous floaty character: sweet but cool, warm but restrained. The only amber I truly love.

Kelly Caleche Hermes FragranticaFragrantica

I’ve reviewed Hermes Kelly Caleche (2007) on APJ, so will just note here that it is a cool, elegant leather with little resemblance to the original Caleche, which I never loved. I’ll come right out with it: Caleche smells dated to me, and too short-lived to bother with.

Finally, Lancome Magie Noire (1978). Yes, it’s a flanker to Magie, released in 1950 and re-released briefly in the mid-2000s. Magie was a classic amber: good but not great. Magie Noire is devastating. A witchy mix of chypre and oriental. Dark, sensual and animalic, it’s haunting if worn lightly, but all-consuming if spritzed heavily. You might pay for this one with your soul.

Over to you! There are LOADS of flankers that you have tried and I haven’t. The good, the bad and the forgettable. Do share!
Until next time, happy spritzing!

Trésor Midnight Rose by Anne Flipo for Lancôme 2011


Post by Portia


Hi there Fumies,

I have long been an unashamed adorer of Trésor, the original. It’s a scent I love to smell as it wafts by in the street or a mall. It smells only like itself and is a wonderful signature fragrance. So when they started bringing out modern flankers I was really sneery and snide without testing the product. Then a girlfriend smelled really fabulous one day and I asked her what that bewitching magic was? Wouldn’t you know it…..

Trésor Midnight Rose by Lancôme 2011

Trésor Midnight Rose by Anne Flipo

Tresor Midnight Rose Lancome FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Raspberry, rose absolute
Heart: Jasmine, peony, currant buds, pink pepper
Base: Virginian cedar, musk, vanilla

So up close Trésor Midnight Rose opens screechy, high octane oversweet fruity nightmare. Sorry folks, the opening needs to be endured rather than enjoyed. The raspberry and rose get right up into that urinous blackcurrant zing that can send me for headache tablets. The trick here is to spritz arms and tummy, ignore the first 20 seconds and suddenly that vile and obnoxious tirade becomes succulent fizzy fruits in a warm vanilla tinged bouquet that could (if you squint hard and screw up your nose) be based on a rose.

FW12 THE HEART TRUTH 2/8/2012 NEW YORKPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Don’t get me wrong, there is NOTHING natural feeling about Trésor Midnight Rose, it is as unreal and space age a crystalline rose fragrance as ever you could imagine. As a bystander though it is beautiful. Sweet and ripe, exotic and splendid with a touch of vanilla over laundry style musks and I also get an unmentioned fizz of pineapple as it’s about to go over the edge into too ripe. I was completely gobsmacked when my girlfriend told me what she was wearing and since then I have gone through 2 x 5ml decants and am running through my third. My mind is starting to wonder if I need a bottle?

Who can wear this? Obviously aimed at the younger market it also smells fabulous on a thirty something and I could easily imagine it being a super gift for grandma too. It might give her a youthful spring in her step. I can vouch for it’s invigorating and fun enhancing properties and towards the end if you told me the original plan was to smell exactly like a sour cherry mousse I would 100% believe you. Longevity excellent, projection average to high. There is something really lovely about wearing Trésor Midnight Rose.

VLUU P1200  / Samsung P1200Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: Now Smell This
Beauty Encounter has $49/50ml
My Perfume Samples has $3/ml – $9/5ml

What did you Poo Poo till a friend or passing stranger made you do a 180 degree turn?
Portia xx