Savoy Steam by Juliette Karagueuzoglou for Penhaligon`s 2017

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Ainslie Walker of Scentsmith 

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Hello Australian Perfume Junkies!

It has been a while since I have written a piece for you and I hope you’re all fragrant and well.

Last week I attended the Australian launch of Savoy Steam by Penhaligon’s at Sydney’s Langham Hotel. Hosted by Penhaligon’s Australian distributers, Agence de Parfums, it was a beautiful breakfast event with a fitting quaint English feel. There were plenty of familiar faces and I was lucky to be sitting on Michael Edwards of Fragrances of the World’s table. (NB Hot gossip from his world is that at the end of this year he will be moving back to Sydney permanently, yippee!!)

We shared homemade pastries and teacakes over tea and coffees in a ‘high tea’ style. Tables were set gorgeously with personalised calligraphy placards. The venue was in keeping with the colours of the fragrances packaging, in particular the bow on the bottles – beige and blue. The packaging is a nod to the early Turkish bathhouses popular in London from the early 20th century. Blue and beige like the traditional cloths and towels used even now. The box is simplistic yet head turning, wrapped in textured linen, it’s lovely and textured in the hand.

Michael Edwards introduced the brand and it’s long history before Michael, trainer from Agence de Parfums introduced the fragrance – drumroll: Savoy Steam!

Savoy Steam by Penhaligon`s 2017

Savoy Steam by Juliette Karagueuzoglou

Savoy Steam Penhaligon`s fragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, lemon, eucalyptus, mint, pink pepper, rosemary
Heart: Rose, geranium, cardamom, hedione, tea
Base: Benzoin, incense, vanilla, white musk

The fragrance celebrates the very first fragrance in Penhaligon’s portfolio, Hammam Bouquet from 1872. Also, as evident by the name, the scent honours the Savoy Hotel an iconic London Establishment.

If I’m honest, on arrival I expected an old fashioned barbershop scent and nothing more. I worked for years in the men’s grooming industry in London, so believe me I have smelt a few of these!! However in more ways than one, I ate my hat!! Dubbed “gender neutral” in the press release I also found the scent very much ‘on the fence.’ On paper I initially smelt rosemary – aromatic. However on skin, quite, quite different. I quickly understood a focus on the sweeter aspect of rosemary as being in the spotlight. Spiciness, described in the notes as pink pepper also to me has a cardamom like freshness. Geranium in combination makes for a rosy heart.

On my skin the fragrance remains quite sweet but spiciness lingers somewhere…incense like a faint Come des garcons Avignon – tart, bright frankincense and still huffs of sweetness. There is a juicy, wet feel to the beginning of Savoy Steam. I can imagine steam on cement. Nothing though is barbershop or old fashioned. A very nice and modern easy wear. Gentle and slightly feminine in its sweetness. If either of my grandfathers were still alive I would gift them my bottle. Not at all because it’s old fashioned, just because its gentle and sweet like they were – I think this fragrance would be absolutely lovely on a more mature gents skin, a silver fox of sorts…someone like softly spoken but majestic David Attenborough. He could wear it out to dinner.

Further reading: Scented Salamander
Libertine Parfumerie has $279/100ml

It makes me wonder what else I feel works for this age group…Do you have any favourite fragrances for folk over 60? What works, what doesn’t and why? Are fragrances ageist?

Until next time,
Ainslie XX

(Ed: All photos by Ainslie Walker unless specified. Beautiful Ainslie XXXX)

Tobacco Nuit by Jerome Epinette for Atelier Cologne 2016

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Portia

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Hiya Fragrant Friends,

My mates at Libertine Parfumerie sent me a bunch of samples recently. One of the scents I really liked a lot is Tobacco Nuit. Don’t forget, we Aussies get FREE Australian Shipping from the Libertine crew and they throw in generous samples.

Tobacco Nuit by Atelier Cologne 2016

Tobacco Nuit by Jerome Epinette

Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top:  Italian clementine, Coriander, Cumin
Heart: Labdanum, Tobacco blossom, Uzbek incense
Base: Atlas cedar, Brazilian tonka bean, Indonesian patchouli

Bittersweet citrus smoothed by soft waves of coriander and labdanum wash out of the opening. The cumin plays a very background role, merely adding a worn-in feeling rather than a sweaty jock strap. Tobacco Nuit smells extremely luxurious and balmy. Rich, dark and woody with chocolate facets and resinous sweet cool glassiness. I am reminded of the way Mona di Orio created perfumes, there is a rich, seamless haughty arrogance to Tobacco Nuit that has me smiling and enjoying it’s grandness. I can see it becoming a firm favourite of the 21st century dandies, should they ever get to try it.

Tobacco Nuit Atelier Cologne Savile_Club_New_Bar_2 WikiCommonsWikiCommons

I’m really surprised that there is no honey mentioned in the note list but it may be the way that the tobacco, patchouli, tonka and labdanum combine. Whatever it is Tobacco Nuit feels thick, lustrous and buffed to a high sheen.

Through the heart I can feel the scent drying out and becoming more woodsy, and warmer. Like sitting in a cold room where someone lights a fire. That moment when the big logs are alight and all the kindling gone, suddenly there is this clean warmth and the room smells amazing.

Longevity is excellent, better than many EdPs, and even after a bath I have remnants of Tobacco Nuit, just the amberish warmth of utter dry down. Gorgeous from start to finish.

Tobacco Nuit Atelier Cologne Tobacco Flower Taber Andrew Bain flickrFlickr

Further reading: WMSSL and Colognoisseur
Libertine Parfumerie has $299/100ml (FREE Australian Shipping)
First in Fragrance has €175/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3.50/ml

Have any of the Atelier Colognes called your name?
Portia xx

 

Un Jour d’Eté by Keiko Mecheri 2012

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Portia

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Hey there Fumies,

It’s winter here in Australia and while it’s no snow filled wonderland where I am it is grey & cool. My morning and night walks with the dogs have become rugged up affairs and my corduroy jeans are getting loads of wear. Personally I’ve never really followed seasons with my fragrance, though the ambers do get quite a bit more action in the cool. Today I was after a ray of sunshine, a happy, warmth infused scent that would give the day a lift  from the wintery blues and hit me with fond memories of summer.

Un Jour d’Eté by Keiko Mecheri 2012

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Bergamot, jasmine, coconut, ambergris, woodsy notes, lemon, petitgrain, tangerine, white musk, green notes, floral notes

Take a selection of citrus and give it the shimmering snap of pettigrain (and maybe some aldehydes). Fold in a thick, creamy, fluffed with musks coconut. Lightly salt it with the marine overtones of ambergris and driftwood. Whip it up into an uncooked meringue mixture, light, airy and sweet. Spritz yourself liberally and waft summer scented waves of fragrant air for hours and hours.

Un Jour d’Eté is French for A Summer Day and the name is not hype. Perfect to wear on a summer day or to reminisce about them in the depths of winter. Not nearly as in your face as Estee Lauder’s Bronze Goddess, here everything is less about the suntan lotion (though it does not to it) and more about wandering tropical beach side gardens. This is a swanky holiday floating around in gossamer thin silk caftans on the grass by the pool with a view of the ocean rather than rollicking around in the surf in a sand encrusted bikini. Here we drink some fabulous creation that the clever barman has made especially for you of white & dark rum, curaçao, cream, coconut and lime zest.

Un Jour d’Eté goesa on smooth and continues that way to dry down. No screaming huge event but a soft focus beauty I think it perfect for both sexes who want something casual but unusual. I could also imagine Un Jour d’Eté be an excellent choice for weddings.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin
Libertine Parfumerie has AUD$279/75ml with FREE Australian Delivery

What are you currently wearing that goes against the seasonal regulations, and why?
Portia xx

 

 

Libertine Warehouse Clearance Sale 2017

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Portia

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Hey APJ,

This is news for all the Sydney perfume peeps. You have no idea how amazing the Libertine Sale is till you’ve been to one.

Libertine Warehouse Clearance Sale 2017

Libertine Parfumerie is hosting their SYDNEY Warehouse Pop-Up SALE

🌟For 3 days only, save up to 75% on selected fragrances, testers, candles & body products 🌟

Thursday 1st of June 4 – 7pm
Friday 2nd of June 8:30am – 5pm
Saturday 3rd of June 9am – 1pm

Address: 1-3 Taylor St, Darlinghurst, NSW, 2010

 

Citron d`Erable by Atelier Cologne 2016

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Portia

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Hi there APJ,

On Google translate the meaning of Citron d`Erable is Lemon of Maple, whatever that means. It is not, as I originally heard it, Citron Terrible. OOOPSIE! Citron d’Erable is sold as a Limited Edition among the Atelier Cologne Collection Azur and comes in a darker than azure bottle. I like the simplicity of the Atelier flasks, they are very cool and slightly nerdy/hipster. When I see them in the coloured glass I think of the person who has a single bottle of fragrance at any one time. In my imagination that fragrance bottle probably sits on a bathroom counter or bedroom bureau and adds a feeling of industrial intimacy in an often minimalist environment. That splash of interesting, flamboyance even, in a stark and modern taste void.

Citron d`Erable by Atelier Cologne 2016

Citron d`Erable Atelier Cologne FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Maple syrup, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian mandarin
Heart: Chinese sichuan pepper, Eucalyptus, French blackcurrant
Base: Maple wood, Cedarwood, Sequoia

This fragrance was originally produced in 2016 for Canadian Sephora exclusively. It seems that it made the cut to the range but could still be a Limited Edition. It’s only just landed in Australia so I’m pretty excited to have a sample that the Libertine Parfumerie crew sent me. Thanks guys.

Citron d’Erable opens with a startling citrus, so strong and fizzy. I spritzed on my chest and even from there I was surprised by the enormity of it and wondered if I may have overspritzed. Luckily within a few seconds the screech had subsided and a luscious citrus, like a multi citrus juice or freshly cut oranges, limes, lemons, mandarines or grapefruit came through. It’s delightful and warmed through by the maple syrup slowly over the next 10 minutes.

Citron d`Erable Atelier Cologne Maple MaxPixelPDI

The citrus doesn’t leave though, it stays and becomes sweetened by blackcurrant. Bittersweetened actually. It provides interesting counterpoint to the citrus & maple. That’s kind of where Citron d’Erable stays on my skin. It wafts around for quite a while only getting slightly drier and woodsier towards dry down.

If you are a fruity fragrance fan this will definitely be your jam. You like the Escada frags? This is a posh version of their screech. I’m thinking it might lure some who are not so impressed by the genre as well. It feels like an expensively created shimmery fruit fragrance.

Citron d`Erable Atelier Cologne Blackcurrant Pezibear PixabayPDI

Further reading: Colognoisseur
Libertine Parfumerie has $199/100ml with FREE Australian Shipping

How does a warm citrus for cooler weather sound to you?
Portia xx

32 Venenum by Daphne Bugey for L`Artisan Perfumer 2016

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Portia

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Hey crew,

I was in the city today and stopped by to sniff stuff. I started chatting to a VERY sexy SA in Myer called Louis. Seriously DROP DEAD GORGEOUS! Anyway we chatted about what I should try, I was all blasé, tried everything you have and then he pointed out the L’Artisan prive range. I totally ignored them when they came out but he insisted so…

32 Venenum by L`Artisan Perfumer 2016

32 Venenum by Daphne Bugey

Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords;
Bread, Milk, Chai tea, Ceylonese sandalwood, Rice

Yep, smells good.

Chai? Yes. Milk, Yes. Rice? Maybe? Sandalwood, oH YES!

Should have bought it on the spot. Will now have to go back. Hopefully Louis will be there so I can be the creepy old gay. He doesn’t look outraged though, just chuffed.

 

Three spritzes on my arm and the train ride home was blissful. I’m now at home and still loving its toasty goodness. YUM

Libertine  says this: A new world is opened up. Would it be a forest of sandalwood where rice is steamed while drinking spicy chai or a wide golden field of grains? Venenum awakens memories and souvenirs of India without dwelling upon it. It oscillates between the scent of hot freshly made bread, milky clouds, spicy tea and smooth sandalwood. No matter where Daphné Bugey has decided to make us travel, the sensation is as gentle as it is enveloping. This venin is so flirtatious that it teases.

I do have to tell you though that it does remind me of something I can’t place. I think they’ve used an ingredient that’s also in Aether Methaldone and I am reading it loud and clear.

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy
Libertine Parfumerie has $299/75ml with FREE Australian Postage
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3.60/0.5ml

Did you try it yet?
Portia xxx

 

Clandestine Clara by Sophie Labbé for Penhaligon`s 2017

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Portia

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Hey Hey Lovers Of NEW!

Another from the Libertine Parfumerie Pack. There’s been loads of chatter around the Portraits collection with its wildly provocative storyline including fortune, scandal, infidelity and homosexuality. Woo Hoo! Jackpot! Loving the fun Penhaligon’s seems to be having under the Puig banner. Not so sure about the heavy animal lids which would be Ouchie WaWa dropped on unshod morning feet and do definite damage to tile if dropped from hand height in the bathroom and mark wooden floorboards elsewhere. The idea is good though, if only they were bakelite or if they offered an animal free lid. Anyway, they have two new additions to the family Roaring Radcliff (a spiced run & tobacco scent) and Clandestine Clara.

Clandestine Clara by Penhaligon`s 2017

Clandestine Clara by Sophie Labbé

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top:  Rum, Vanilla
Heart: Cinnamon, Musk
Base: Amber notes, Patchouli

Boozy vanilla, spicy and wet. The opening smells like uncooked biscuit mix that you lick off the beaters and spatula. Much more interesting than the original four Portraits collection with that unusual Play-Doh vanilla/patchouli from Jacomo Art Collection #2 with the yellow lid and L’Artisan’s Dzing!. I love it there and here, so unexpected and funky.

Once the parts have come together the heart stays fairly linear. Not a problem, I am enjoying this spicy patchouli and vanilla/amber melange. It’s quite different when I put my nose to my wrist and when I have it at arms length, close up Clandestine Clara is all about this salted plastic patchouli but further away it’s much more about the boozy vanilla. Oh, I do like this a lot.

Thinking about who would wear Clandestine Clara and in my mind it skews quite boyish, yes even though I don’t believe in such things. So I can easily imagine it being a unisex creation. Maybe because I’ve worn Jacomo Art Collection #2 for years and often to art stuff as it’s a bit of an out of the square scent I find myself imagining a very cool couple wearing this. Maybe as their weekend couple scent and brunching, then wandering galleries, meeting friends and meandering through springtime cities in utter comfort together.

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy
Libertine has
LuckyScent has $240/75ml + Samples

What do you think of the lids? Does Clandestine Clara tickle your fancy?
Portia xx