Ambre Mythique by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier 2016

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Portia

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Hey Hey Amber Lovers,

It’s turning cooler in the northern Hemisphere and we are still having cool nights in Sydney. A fragrance that seemed to miss getting much attention last year when it was released Ambre Mythique is another wonderful amber from a house that does them so well.

Many of us went through an amber stage very early in our perfumista career so we tend to think we have tried everything and what the hell could they do different or better than some of our favourites? I think that the MPG gang have succeeded in adding a new twist, also for those AMBER HATERS this could very well be the change in amber that’s needed to get you across to the dark side.

Recently I grabbed this out with Rasei of Forte & Manlé and Kerri while at lunch and the both agreed that Ambre Mythique is a very special amber.

Ambre Mythique by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier 2016

Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top:  Bergamot, Geranium, Coriander, Frankincense
Heart: Myrrh, Lavender, Cistus
Base: Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Tonka bean

Nowadays MPG feels sadly neglected, good call to finally get around to updating bottle and lid. This new look is a cool reimagining of their gaudy old style, while a little of the whimsy remains.

The opening is a herbaceous twist in the amber theme, very interesting, like they’ve done complimentary sprays on each arm of a fougere and an amber fragrance. Totally enjoying the dryness over the crunchy sweet amber that is also cut by the patchouli. I am LOVING this. Quite unique.

PDI

Amber and other incense-y resins make very nice warm and cool juxtapositions, a little bit animal and funky too. Honeyed and furry. The whole fragrance is plush and lavish from beginning to end. Amber Mythique even smells great in warm weather,  currently Sydney is around 26C (79F) and I feel like I’m wearing the freshest amber ever. The lavender is a surprise and reappears intermittently throughout my wear right through to dry down.

Comfortable and unusual, safe for work but interesting enough to spend 3 hours on the couch enjoying the ride.

Further reading: Perfume Posse and Megan In St Maxime
LuckyScent has $190/120ml and Samples

Do you amber?
Portia xx

Fraîche Passiflore by Jean Laporte for Maître Parfumeur et Gantier 1988

Hi there APJ,

I quite like this brand, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier is one of the original niche houses, but I rarely buy the bottles because I find it impossible to say the houses name without mangling it beyond recognition. It’s a shame because they do some really great scents and have been doing stuff that still feels revolutionary since day one. It’s surprising how many of the line still feel bang up to date. Last time I was in Scent Bar in LA they gave me three samples of the Maître Parfumeur et Gantier range on a card to try, I have rediscovered the card in my cleanup this week and found a surprise delight.

Fraîche Passiflore by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier 1988

Fraîche Passiflore by Jean Laporte

Fraiche Passiflore Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Raspberry, Peach, Tagetes
Heart: Jasmine, Passion flower, Pimento
Base: Musk, Mysore sandalwood

Fraiche Passiflora opens with the funnest fruit punch ever.It’s like a crisp cut fruit salad sprinkled lightly with sugar and a little rose water.Without being super sweet, overbearing or outrageous Fraiche Passiflora manages to be radiantly delicious and makes me smile. Oh, and it smells great. I can’t believe that this beauty came out in 1988, it’s like a fun and flirty precursor to Angel and the gourmand craze that followed in its wake. Passionfruit, not flower, seems to be the central theme here, and everything else dances attendance on it well through the heart. It’s so yummy that I can almost feel the pips as I chew with cool refreshing gelato. This is a perfectly gorgeous summer, or memory of summer, scent that will have you smiling along at how freaking fab you smell and wafting delicious sillage behind you that will definitely be turning heads.

fraiche-passiflore--maitre-parfumeur-et-gantier Jelly_tots WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

The heart has a real feeling of soft sugared jubes, like Jelly Tots but bigger. The ones that you put three in your mouth and as you chew they all stick in and around your teeth and then you spend the next hour or so getting lovely sweet reminders of them as they slowly melt. Mum used to always have a small bag of them in her purse because giving us a mouthful of these when our attention or energy was flagging would give us an instant pick up.

fraiche-passiflore--maitre-parfumeur-et-gantier Gisela WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

If you have someone in your life that likes a joyful fruity fragrance, even if it’s you, then I think Fraiche Passiflora would be an excellent next step into a real quality version of the genre.

LuckyScent has $130/100ml and samples

What is your fruity favourite? Do you have any of the Maître Parfumeur et Gantier range?
Portia xx

November Sample Challenge Part 1

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Post by Gabriella

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Hello fragrance lovers!

Late last month one of my friends on the Aussie Fragrance Network Facebook group invited people to participate in a sample challenge. For the whole month of November, we were to wear a sample of a different scent each day. I thought it was a great idea, given I have oodles of samples and never seem to get through many before I order more. Here’s my diary of week one.

November Sample Challenge: Gabriella’s Week 1 diary

Perfume Samples Vial Naomi King FlickrPhoto Stolen Naomi King Flickr

Friday, November 1: I decide to ease myself into this challenge by choosing a tuberose: Nasomatto Narcotic Venus. Turns out to be a bad choice. I’ve sampled it before and always had the same emotional reaction: anger. Why? Because to me this is an overpriced, poor imitation of Michael Kors Michael with a cheap metallic edge. Michael is so much smoother and rounder and about a quarter of the price of this. Enough said.

Miss Charming Juliette Has A Gun FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Saturday, November 2: I pop on some Juliette Has a Gun Miss Charming this morning and it’s a great choice for a sunny Saturday – a pretty, wearable rose, I really like it. After a shower, I stay scent free as we’re heading into the city and I want to test a couple of things. (Testing is the same as sampling surely?) I try the Frederic Malle Dries van Noten and its Eau de Wet Cardboard. Lipstick Rose graces the other arm (slightly cheating here as I have owned a bottle of this) and it’s not working either. The grapefruit is so loud today it’s almost nauseating.

Sunday November 3: Wake up with serious spraying envy today. My bottles are sitting on my dresser, winking at me, mocking me. Surely, surely it wouldn’t be too bad to have one teensy spray would it? I pick up my Tubey Crim, ease the cap off and…..

“Oi! Put that DOWN!”

Damn, I thought Mr M was downstairs.

“That’s cheating M. Wear a sample.”

Ok. I put the bottle down and smile sheepishly like the naughty child that I am.

Secrete Datura Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

My sample of Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Secret Datura restores my mood immensely. It’s a softer, sunnier take on datura than Serge Lutens Datura Noir. In the evening, I choose Guerlain’s Cruel Gardenia which is a pretty, powdery floral. It’s nice but my skin eats it up in five seconds.

Monday, November 4: I wake up with renewed vigor for the challenge. After all, it’s only a month, surely I can do it. Its Costes 2 today. I love it and wonder why it doesn’t get the same love as the original. I’m sitting at work in my soft, cuddly, cinnamon and spice haze when something-that-would-usually-be-good-but-is-the-worst-thing-ever-for-a-sample-challenge happens. The bottle of Fleur de Liane that I ordered recently arrives. Argh! No, no, no, no, no! MUST. NOT. OPEN. BOTTLE. Must be good, must be good and stay strong, stay focused. I feel like I’m in the perfumed equivalent of those temptation challenges on The Biggest Loser. Do I? Do I? Luckily, I’m at work and won’t have to face this till I get home.
*****
Bugger, so I did succumb. I am the bloody weakest link. But I remedy my lapse by wearing the two samples that were sent with the bottle: L’Artisan Skin on Skin and Caligna. Ewww! These are dreadful and I scrub them straight off. Placate myself by wearing the sample of Honey Miss Portia sent me and this is yum. Go to bed happy.

Chanel 31 Rue Cambon Chanel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Tuesday, November 5: Chanel 31 Rue Cambon. Stunning. I’ve sampled before and each time I ask the same question: Why do I not have a bottle of this?

Wednesday, November 6: Sick in bed. Feeling that dreadful that I really don’t want to wear perfume today (that’s saying something), so I don’t.

Thursday, November 7: Still not well, but the arrival of my Luckyscent October sample pack lifts my spirits. Fresh meat, goody! By the afternoon, I’m feeling well enough to tackle them head on. Amouage Fate Woman wins my heart immediately. It’s such an enigma of a fragrance and absolutely outstanding. I love the chili in the opening and even though it’s gourmand in the dry down, I really love it.

Fate for Women Amouage FrsagranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Friday, November 8: The beautiful opening of Indult’s Manakara captures my heart: it’s a simple mix of rose and lychee, but it just gets too sweet in the drydown. Revisit Amouage Fate again in the evening and still love it so much that I’m already getting sad at the sample disappearing.

Week one has been fun, but it’s made me realise that dabbing on samples doesn’t give me the same emotional impact as spraying from a decant or a bottle. Having said that, it’s been interesting to wear something different each day.

 Samples Perfect California Day OakleyOriginals FlickrPhoto Stolen OakleyOriginals Flickr

So, APJ readers, could you wear only samples for a whole month? How would you tackle this exercise? Would you make a plan or go random? Do you have any tips for the remaining weeks?

With much love till next time!
M x

Racine by Jean Laporte for Maître Parfumeur et Gantier 1988

Heya APJ Crew,

Ever get so swept away by a review that you go hunting for the fragrance immediately? I too am no slouch in the lemming stakes. Here is a happy ending story…

Racine by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier 1988

Racine Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Vetiver, oak moss, while musk, citruses

To give you the complete truth I have been dying to own one of these bottles but the ones I tried were too close to things already in my collection. It’s hard to believe that this fun crew, Maître Parfumeur et Gantier, have been around since the 1980s that is a 4 decade run in a business notorious for its patrons fickleness. Quite an achievement.

Racine Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier citrus group pixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

The opening on my skin is a zesty burst or citrussy goodness slightly warmed by what I think must be the musk/vetiver but it reads to my nose like almond. If you are yawning and switching off at the ubiquitous citrus opening you would be missing out on something fun and a little daring, the citrus is mildly effervescent, dry and bitter without any of the household cleaner aspect, whatever they have put with it keeps it playing nice. The citrus stays! Even through the soft, earthy greenness of the vetiver. For a change I get no salt shimmer from this vetiver at all.

Beyond 2 hours Racine goes quiet on me, it hasn’t gone and continues to pump a low level hum through the day with bursts of waft. On Wednesday I wore Racine for cleaning the house. Always a 3-4 hour marathon that stretches to 5 because when I finish each chore I gift myself 10 minutes on the computer with a drink, coffee or tea. Even as I was doing my last chore of the day, steam mopping the tiles, I was getting radiant whiffs of very soft Racine. Do I like it? I LOVE IT!!

Racine Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Vetiver Aqua Culture vetiver.orgPhoto Vetiver used in Aqua Culture in Brazil Stolen vetiver.org

From The Black Narcissus: Usually in perfumes of this type, the lemon or bergamot in the opening will disappear fairly quickly and be taken over by the usual contemporary architecture of cashmere woods and the like, and this is where Racine is different: rather than the constrained urbanity of Tom Ford Grey Vetiver or Lalique’s Encre Noire and their debonair, besuited attractiveness, Racine, from the Les Caprices du Dandy collection, entwines a predominant, fresh-as-a-vine, sinuous vetiver from the Réunion Isles with a sucked-on-a-lemon, imperious citrus note, combined beautifully with a mauve-hued, satin plum cushion of prune, oakmoss, geranium, and, gently intertwined, a touch of equally dry, deep-octaved patchouli.

Racine Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier citrus bubbles deviantArtPhoto Stolen thebeeskneez DeviantArt

Further reading: The review that had me swooning enough to go get Racine was The Black Narcissus and looking at old & new variants The Non Blonde
FragranceNet has Racine for $99 but with the Coupon DCRT3 it comes down to around $78
The Perfumed Court starts at $3/ml

Do you have any of the Maître Parfumeur et Gantier range? Maybe you’ve spent some Racine time? Don’t you love the bottles?
Till tomorrow,
Portia xxx

Portia’s Christmas For The Boys Shopping Guide

Hello Fraught Funies,

OMG!! How is it Christmas again? I used to be a done all my Christmas Shopping by the end of the July Sales kinda person but the last few years I have put it off and put it off and then end up in a mad December scramble. I am composing a list of the things I’d like to grab for my partner Jin this year and letting you look over my shoulder as I do it. He will probably only get one from this list as I have a couple of other things in mind to add in.

Portia’s Christmas For The Boys Shopping Guide

CasswellMasseySandalwoodSoap GraysOnlinePhoto Stolen GraysOnline

Caswell – Massey Sandalwood Soap 3 x 5.8oz: This is a well packaged and deliciously scented set of Sandalwood smelling soaps. They act as a great base for loads of mens fragrances and give back a little of the rich buttery sandalwood missing from so many modern incarnations. There is also a 243ml body lotion pump pack. They both come in boxes for ease of wrapping. At FragranceNet I found the pair of them after discount for under $35

Yatagan eBay

Caron, Yatagan EdT: Named after the curve bladed Turkish sabre Yatagan is a green, woodsy, leather, spice and sweat mixture that is surprising, interesting, masculine and dead sexy. Released back in 1976 Yatragan is a manly masterpiece for a super great price. FragranceNet has 125ml Edt spray for under $40

LorenzoVilloresiSampleSet FirstInFragragrance

Lorenzo Villoresi – Fragrance Collection – Sample Set: I found this stunning set and have been panting after it for myself. 16 x 1.5ml sprays showing a fabulous selection of the range for only €30 on FirstInFragrance and a little hint, if you are shopping Internationally you pay no tax so spending around 100 and the shipping will be the same as the saved tax. Woo Hoo!

L_Artisan_Batucada_Eau_de_Toilette_100mlPhoto Stolen L’Artisan

L’Artisan Parfumeur, Batucada EdT: Spicy, salty citrus tempered by flowers, flesh and sea in a lovely nod to cocktails and samba in Brazil on Ipanema Beach. Bright, bold, fresh and daring while being a completely modern masculine, and those engraved hexagonal bottles look so rich and have great heft in your hands. Parfum1 has 50ml for $100

JuniperSling lovelypackagePhoto Stolen lovelypackage

Penhaligon’s, Juniper Sling: Recently I was lucky enough to win a bottle of Juniper Sling from TheCandyPerfumeBoy and I can’t stop spritzing. It is a fabulously boozy cool climate forest walk that gives you a sharp slap in the face to wake you up and then warms on skin into a deliciously warm masculine clean body smell. OMG! Seriously gorgeous stuff and EssentialMall has 50ml for as little as $101. BTW The box is even more lavish looking in real life

Maître ParfumeuretGantierDiscovery FirstInFragrance

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier – Les Masculins – Discovery Set: Discover the universe of Maître Parfumeur et Gantier. A choice of 15 fragrances presented in 13 ml refillable atomizers, personally I think this is ridiculously good value and look at the presentation. FirstInFragrance has this gorgeous set for €119

Pear&Olive

Slumberhouse, Pear + Olive: If you want something so completely different to anything else available, you are buying for a perfumista, want to look like you are all over the best new stuff by the coolest crews and are way ahead of the game then this is the best buy you could wish for. The juice is a surprising almost clash of sweet and savoury, is dense and light simultaneously, warm, ferocious, cool and charming and comes in a killer engraved bottle with plenty of heft that will look totally now and retro on every vanity. Get onto the Slumberhouse site where 50ml will cost $150 + $12 International Postage. this is the good shit!

inekeeveningedgedingold LibertinePhoto Stolen Libertine

INeKE, Evening Edged In Gold: I know that you wouldn’t normally pick this as a masculine fragrance but it smells terrific on my partner Jin, a spicy, floral woodsy fragrance that sizzles on him in the most alluring way and makes me want to get really close. The bottle is a beautiful work of art too. Libertine in Australia has 75ml $160 including postage

Picture 3357Photo stolen LucyScent

Amouage EdP Miniatures Men’s Gift Set: Really want to spend some money on a lavish gift? Try the six best selling Amouage Men’s Fragrances in miniatures. Each 7.5ml bottle is a perfect mini replica of the real thing. Included are: Lyric, Jubilation XXV, Reflection, Gold, Dia & Silver. Many of the world’s stores are sold out but Libertine still has some in stock for $280 including Postage

Did that help at all? It has certainly sorted some stuff out in my head. What fragrant gifts are you thinking for the men in your life?
See you tomorrow,

Portia xx