Nuit de Bakélite by Isabelle Doyen for Naomi Goodsir 2017

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Sandra

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Hi there APJ, I hope everyone is doing well and enjoying spring or autumn. I am actually quite surprised that autumn is so much nicer than summer here in the Netherlands.

When we arrived in the Netherlands I made it a personal quest of mine to hunt down as many different flowers as I could get my greedy hands on. Not only is almost everything available, but the prices are incredibly low! I have been going through the seasons here looking for specific flowers, such as crocosmia in the summer, hydrangeas the size of basketballs, orchids of all shapes and sizes and this summer I finally, after many years of dreaming, was able to buy fresh tuberose. I have always loved tuberose perfumes, but after experiencing the real thing, my expectations have changed slightly. I no longer want creamy or buttery tuberose, or tuberose that is so difficult to smell because of added ingredients that are an onslaught to my senses. I want the real thing.

When I bought my first stems of tuberose I was taken aback at how complex the flower is. The flowers are so delicate in sight and to the touch – they are almost silky. I expected the flowers to be white, when in reality they are more ivory, tinged with pinks, yellows and the slightest green. The stem itself has different shades of green but not a dark green at all. Visually the tuberose is stunning and then there is the perfume. Oh my is it intoxicating! My home smelled divine for a whole week.

I love that the Naomi Goodsir website describes Nuit de Bakélite as “Floral (2017) The premise of a ‘narcotic lady’…”

Nuit de Bakélite by Naomi Goodsir 2017

Nuit de Bakélite by Isabelle Doyen

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Tuberose, angelica, artemisia, ylang-ylang, karo karounde, carrot seeds, cardamom, leather, styrax, green notes

Don’t take these notes too seriously as they differ on several websites because no note list was released.

I was hoping for something out of the ordinary, something new and bit surprising – narcotic. Let’s sniff…

Wow – what an opening! It starts out bright and fresh green – full of juicy (not sweet at all) slightly bitter green leaves. Usually, I shy away from such green perfumes because they are out of my comfort zone. Not to fear, this perfume surprises me with the turns it takes. After such a fresh green opening it stays that way for a while on my skin, only hinting at the merest inclusion of tuberose. As my skin warms and I am moving around, the tuberose becomes more pronounced, but it is not a soliflore at all. The tuberose is accompanied by a little bit of rooty and woody goodness. To make it more interesting I am sensing that there are other things going on here that I cannot pinpoint.

Then to my surprise once again, Nuit de Bakelite shifts slightly bringing in a leather component. It dries down to a wonderful tuberose leather scent sprinkled with woods to make it rounder. This perfume has all the colors of the blossoms that I smelled this summer. The green stalk, the blossom tinged with pinks and yellows all come through in Nuit de Bakelite.

Further reading: BL’eauOG and Persolaise
LuckyScent has $187/50ml
Surrender To Chance has samples from $6/0.5ml

With this new entry into Naomi Goodsir’s lineup I will buy samples of all of the other ones.

Have you tried Naomi Goodsir? Which of her perfumes should I sample next?

Kisses – Sandra

 

(ED: All photos supplied by Sandra unless specified)

Scent Diary: 20.3 – 26.3.17

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Portia

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Scent Diary: 20.3 – 26.3.17

Monday 20:

Luxumbourg has an excellent cafe/chocolatier on the Place Guillaume. we had afternoon tea there and wrote postcards.

I might have bought these in a corner perfumery with a 20% discount. YAY!

Tuesday 21:

Arrived in Paris around lunchtime. We are staying in a new to us hotel near the Arc de Triomphe. Coming out of the Metro on the escalator and being hit with one of the world’s most recognisable landmarks is pretty spectacular.

Obligatory Serge Lutens flagship store visit. Bought Jin a new MKK because he is going through his bell jar rather quickly and got Scotty something too for house minding our place. SHHHH.

Near the Louvre Museum they had a memorial to all the homeless that died in Paris last year. Hundreds of them, not all with names, were represented by a flowering plant. We laid a rose and said a prayer for one who died on Jin’s birthday. Very moving tribute and a woman danced through the memorial to French provincial music played by a smell band.

Yes, went to Guerlain Champs Elysees store but did not purchase. they still have Liu if you’re looking for it.

Dinner with Nicolas & Enno from Le Galion and Aether. They are bloody wicked company and we laughed and chatted the night away. So glad we are mates with such clever, passionate men about life, work and fragrance.

Scored the brand newest Aether scent and will be doing a giveaway when we get back so you can try it too. Based on the smell of hot metal and made with only captured molecules Methaldone is really good stuff. Freaky, wearable and smells good to me.

Wednesday 22:

Since 2013 Jin and I have reminisced about having crepes for breakfast one morning in a market with our mates Aaron & Gerard. They were delicious and it was a great thing to do. Jin decided we would repeat the adventure and painstakingly worked out where the market was and on which days it is open. They were as good as we remembered and it was fun to go back.

Then we went inside Notre Dame. We have been outside a few times but never went in. This time we went in and lit candles for friends & family. Beautiful.

Here I wear the Eiffel Tower as a hat. This is the bridge near Princess Diana’s tunnel where she died. Still sad.

In the afternoon we went to the Grand Palais and saw the Rodin exhibition. Really interesting look at an artist that I know not very much about. We learned a bit but more than anything I loved that he was a great sketcher and we saw a lout of his drawings/inks and that captured my imagination more than anything else.

Jin called this the Beyonce Single Ladies statue. We bloody lost it and all the French matrons looking at us like we were from outer space as we laughed and did Single Ladies singing & dancing impersonations.

Thursday 23:

Ahhh, Galleries Lafayette. I know that Printemps is posher but the shiver of excitement I feel whenever we shop beneath that glittering dome is worth more than anything. Yes, bought the Hermes Collection Colognes. The Hermès SA loaded us up with extras too and made me SWEAR I’d come back and shop with her. Indeed I will.

We saw the Pissaro exhibition, excellent. Seeing the way he grew as an artist. There were all sorts of wonderful pieces in the pointillist, separatist, impressionist genres but interestingly he also had a sideline in simple watercolour and gauche paintings that were really easily sold by his art dealer. That was the way he paid the rent and fed his family. It also meant he could pursue his grand pieces. The last ones were so magnificently painted that they looked like the light was streaming out of them, as if backed by light boxes. Unbelievable.

We tried to go to the Louis Vuitton Foundation but there was no exhibition on. Having paid for the best tickets available we were a bit grumpy. The building is a ridiculous conglomeration of hideous architecture wankings anyway. What a pile of shit.

 

Friday 24:

OMG! Jin and I flew to Milan in the early morning, had some lunch and then met a few of the frag crew in clouding Val the Cookie Queen. We then went in to Escxence. It is enormous, filled to the gills with perfume houses. So many of them brand new and hardly any of my most loved.

Charles de Gaulle had an interesting selection of Mass-Tige fragrances including Diptyque, Amouage, Lutens and Goutal.

Val the Cookie Queen is mortally afraid of photographs, weird because she’s so beautiful.

Nick (I’m sorry I didn’t get a pic with Pia too) Gilbert and Lucasz from Chemist In A Bottle

Antonio Gardoni of Bogue and Francesco from Luckyscent

Adam & Francesco from LuckyScent, Vero Kern, Neela Vermeire and up the back Judith Fox, Val CQs best friend (and psychotherapist). This is my favourite Esxence pic by far.

It was so overwhelming that I only allowed 3 houses to give me their sample sets. I already love Miller & Bartaux, their product is weird and wonderful while remaining perfectly wearable.
Atelier des Ors is a favourite of Ainslie Walker and I know Megan their rep.
Brand new and winner of the worst brand name ever Homoelegans, I liked one of their frags particularly, more on that later.

We finished the day with a bunch of great mates for dinner. They all really needed a quiet wind down and we found a spectacular candlelit restaurant close by that served wonderful food for very decent prices. Petit is the name and they worked hard to make it a special evening for us all.

Saturday 25:

Started my morning at the Milano Savoy with Aussie milliner to the stars Naomi Goodsir. I bloody love her.

This years offering is Nuit de Bakelite. It’s green with a tuberose heart. The closest analogy I can make is a 21st century Niki de Saint Phalle EdT.

The Duomo. The Pope was in town, he missed us by minutes.

Neela and Jin. The display was gorgeous at the NVC stand and Neela was swamped by people all day, every day.

At Campo Marzio 70. I might have bought a Kiki Extrait at retail, so good.

Farewell to Vero Kern & Antonio Gardoni with Val the cookie queen.

I might have got this to…….

Sunday 26:

Up early for a farewell breakfast with Val the Cookie Queen and Judith. Saying goodbye to people we love is shit.

We dropped into Esxence to see Neela and she gave us a bottle of Bombay Bling to photograph on our travels in Milan today. BIG responsibility. Jin is up for the challenge.

A cup of tea with Neela before bed. The fragrances she creates are as warm, wonderful and delicious as Neela herself. I love her passion and perfectionism.

So what has happened in your week, fragrant or otherwise?
Portia xx

Our Two Greyhounds Arrived

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Post by Portia

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Hi crew,

Yesterday we took ownership of two perfectly beautiful greyhound dogs. Both male, not quite two years old and neither had made it to the track yet or even been named. They were the slow pokes of their families and were heading for the rainbow bridge. I took Jin out to meet them and it was instant love.

Our Two Greyhounds Arrived

paris-and-jinx-in-their-new-home-oct-2016

I know this is a crap picture but this was the first one taken in their new home on our balcony.

The Black one on the left is mine and he is called Paris. On the right the Grey/Blue one is Jin’s and his name is Jinx. We did have other names picked but the dogs really didn’t seem to fit them so we went through our list of names till they perked up at one.

I have been wearing Madagascar Jasmine by Naomi Goodsir because the jasmine is in bloom in Sydney and I wanted in on that loveliness and Bulgari Man In Black because foggy woods are freaking YUMMY!

Sorry, I have to get back to cuddling my puppy.

Aren’t they gorgeous?

Portia xx

Day Out In Sydney: Photo Essay

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Post by Portia

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Hey there Fumies,

Scott and I had a big day out yesterday in Sydney city. Sadly we could not make it on time to the Penhaligon’s Breakfast but it looked amazing and we would have LOVED to be a part of it. What a fabulous arrangement in a sunny outdoor courtyard. Congratulations Libertine Parfumerie.

Equinox Bloom Penhaligon's Sydney May 2016 #11

Equinox Bloom Penhaligon's Sydney May 2016 #12

Men’s Biz

We first hit Men’s Biz in the Strand Arcade where our mate Liam is currently curating their fragrance range. I also wanted to take advantage of the APJ 10% Discount. We sniffed loads and chatted, met the owner(?) Nathan and the crew, fell madly in love with loads of frags and had a generally convivial time. Yes, I succumbed and bough Iris Cendre by Naomi Goodsir, feeling particularly good because she is an Aussie who has made it on the world stage.

Day Out In Sydney May 2016 #1

Liam, Scott & I overwhelmed by choice

Sydney May 2016 #2

Nathan (the boss) joins us, he is sweet and handsome

Sydney May 2016 #3

Sniffing the wares

Sydney May 2016 #4

Men’s Biz has a great selection of all grooming products

Sydney May 2016 #5

Liam’s first Sydney sale goes to me. YAY! 10% APJ Discount too.

Men’s Biz Discount Code!

A special gift for Australian readers – a 10% coupon code from Men’s Biz. Enter ‘APJ’ at the checkout.

Next we went and visited my girlfriend Jolanta in DIOR’s stand along store on Castlereigh St. She had text me earlier this week and told me she was holding me some of the newest DIOR Privee range samples for APJ (review and giveaway coming). La Colle Noire is said to be a spicy rose and I can’t wait to smell what they’ve done.

Christian Dior

Sydney May 2016 #6

Isn’t Jolanta beautiful? She is a Polish Australian and is the DIOR Ambassador here in Sydney, Sexiest voice ever.

Sydney May 2016 #7

Yes, I shopped. The long overdue purchase of Fève Délicieuse that I have talked of incessantly finally took place. Woo Hoo! I now have an enormous amount and can spritz with abandon.

After DIOR we made a quick sidestep into Hermès and visited my mate Gene. I thought I took a couple of picks but clearly I haven’t. As always Gene was super helpful and grabbed us samples of the newest fragrance (review and giveaway upcoming) Hermessence Muguet Porcelain. It’s really pretty and a clean, aquatic lily of the valley. It smelled WAY better on Scott than me but Monsieur Li is absolutely To Die for and had I not already done my budget I would have shopped there too. Next time.

Then we hit my favourite department store, David Jones. We went to the CHANEL counter and Esther was so sweet and helpful. It was touch and go whether I would finally buy Misia but I kept strong. The Guerlain girl was nice but busy, they did have a partial bottle on sale of one of the gold rimmed bottles but I did not succumb. Bravo me.

Yves Saint Laurent

THEN, we went looking at the Yves Saint Laurent section because Scott wanted to try the Black Opium flankers and I wanted to see their new ultra glam range. After finding the Oriental Collection ridiculously overpriced originally it is good to see that they have dropped the prices, now retailing at $180/80ml which is infinitely more reasonable. There we were greeted by the very glamorous Sonja who was excellent value and really knew her stuff.

We did find the newest Le Vestiaire des Perfumes range which really felt like YSL has hit the luxury nail on the head. $230/125ml and the fragrances we tried were smooth and very luxe, not especially groundbreaking but the smell good. My favourite that I very nearly bought was their Caftan; a fabulous sizzling citrus opening with enough resins and balms beneath to warm the cockles of any perfumistas heart.

Sydney May 2016 #8

Isn’t Sonja gorgeous. We will be going back to do some serious shopping with her in the very near future.

Sydney May 2016 #9

The three we tried were Caftan, Caban and Tuxedo.

Sydney May 2016 #10

And we have a winner. I like that YSL have brought out this range but I really wish they’s started with 2 and built it up over time. Insta-ranges are getting ridiculous.

Anyway, that was our super fun day out yesterday. For those that wonder, yes my knee was less than comfortable today but I really was grateful to Scott that we got out of the house and did some fun stuff.

Do you guys ever go on a frag expedition?
Portia xx

Naomi Goodsir Interview

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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“A perfume can be viewed as an invisible accessory. It is a personal choice which creates a statement of style”
Naomi Goodsir

Naomi Goodsir is a tremendously talented Australian, taking the world by storm with her couture designs – hats, bags, body accouterments…and since 2012 niche fragrances.

Fantastic news in February, when I spent an afternoon with her in Sydney, was that her most recent release, Iris Cendré had been announced as a finalist for the Fragrance Foundation Awards, France (THE FIFI’S) in the Prix des Experts category!! Naomi has no idea how it was chosen as one of the top 12 out of 350 entries as usually one must nominate their own fragrance and yet she did not. Perhaps she will find out who the mysterious initiator was when she attends the awards in mid April for the big announcement! (I have my fingers crossed for her)

Naomi Goodsir Interview

Naomi Goodsir:Ainslie Walker 2016 #1

Naomi Goodsir:Ainslie Walker 2016 #2

The fragrances are currently available in 28 countries, here in Australia Peony Melbourne has carried them since 2012. In fact Naomi tells me proudly that Jill was the first buyer in the world to order any of her fragrances, recognizing instantly their beauty and appeal.

Originally studying fashion design in Sydney, Naomi worked her way into millinery, molding, stitching and creating her pieces by hand. She relocated to France, near Grasse to be near her life and business partner Renaud.

Today her creations are in demand, with Naomi also collaborating with designers for their collections, fashion catwalks including Kanye West’s in Paris, window displays and National Opera Houses. From 2008 Naomi expanded into handbags and body accouterments fashioned from luxe raw materials including buffalo/veal/cow/goat/kangaroo leather, horse hair, lace, felt, silk, feathers, barramundi, crinoline, Bakelite, American alligator skin, and Australian and African crocodile skin.

Naomi Goodsir:Ainslie Walker 2016 #

Naomi and I discussed her process for her perfumes, where she collaborates with independent master perfumers Julien Rasquinet and Bertrand Duchaufour. She says, like with her designs, she always starts with a raw material she loves and ideas develop from there. The raw material provides texture and inspiration and further ingredients add layers, similarly to when she creates her hats and bags. With Cuir Velours, it was leather, immortelle, rum, with Bois d’Ascèse it was incense, tobacco and whiskey, Or du Sérail, which featured on the cover of Fragrances of the World 2015 annual, features golden honeyed tobacco and Iris Cendré, of course has delicate orris at the core.

Naomi Goodsir:Ainslie Walker 2016 #4

Naomi was wearing Bois d’Asèse when I met her and divulged the very personal and moving story behind the scent. Its inspiration coming from the warm incense smells she remembers from within a church in the rural NSW town of Coonabarabran – the last place she visited with her dad before he passed away. It also embraces the scent of bushfire from her childhood memories. When I sprayed her personal bottle on my arm we both observed the “fatherly” aspects -my skin amplifies oakmoss and I did feel a warm sense of fatherly comfort.

The following day I wore Cuir Velours from a handmade gift Naomi gave me and I texted her saying “I feel I have awoken, bewildered and happily crawled out of one of your giant leather handbag creations into a boozy dream…complete with immortelle stuck in my messed up hair!” She replied with “A wonderfully apt description- the labdanum, rum et immortelle work perfectly together- a ‘bon mariage’ “ (yes she is beautifully spoken and fluent in French)

Naomi Goodsir:Ainslie Walker 2016 #5

Her next release is collaboration with Isabel Doyle, Annick Goutal’s in-house perfumer which they have been working on for some years and are calling it Nuit de Bakelite for now.

Fascinating and elusive, usually Naomi avoids the camera, however she agreed to just a few just for me to share and even shared with me her very first selfie!!

Have you tried the fragrances from the collection? Which is your favorite and why?

Iris Cendre by Julien Rasquinet for Naomi Goodsir 2015

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Post by Portia

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Naomi Goodsir is back with a new fragrance, four in the same number of years. I wish more lines would follow her lead and bring out their selections with more space between them. It could make the fragrance world a less dross riddled arena. My mate Jill from Peony Melbourne was recently at Pitti in Florence and she brought me back a sample of this baby which is available from this week on the website. EXCITING NEWS!

Iris Cendre by Naomi Goodsir 2015

Iris Cendre by Julien Rasquinet

 

Iris Cendre Naomi Goodsir FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Floral notes, bergamot, tangerine, spices
Heart: Incense, violet, purple iris
Base: Cistus ladanifer (labdanum), tobacco, amber

Iris Cendre opens fully iris on my skin with a lovely bouquet of citrus sparkling in cool winter sunlight. Someone else mentioned aloe and I have to agree, it smells a bit like opening the pot of aloe vera and the cool refreshing and calming feeling of slathering it over a sunburn. All that is background hum though to the iris, orris & violet which are showing their powdery, earthy and leathery aspects. The heart starts out wet and cool but within the hour Iris Cendre has warmed through considerably and the iris becomes intertwined with the warmer and sweeter base notes and dry smoky hints. Once the spectacle of opening and heart die down Iris Cendre leaves a sheer trail of balmy leather and soft, simple, sweet amber that fades and musks down to close.

BP Hair Aviator Naomi GoodsirPhoto Stolen Naomi Goodsir

Iris Cendre is freaking beautiful, especially for the first hour or two. I can imagine perfumistas spritzing in the morning and really enjoying getting to work by which time the fireworks are over and everything is lush and sotto enough to be office appropriate. Iris Cendre is also tenacious, I am left with a lovely wash of clean musks and a hint of resinous goodness over my just-woke-up skin scent.

Here’s the thing. I keep saying I have too much perfume and it’s true, you’d be appalled. Iris Cendre has made me reach for my Credit Card to pay full price. That’s got to tell you how good it is….. actually it’s even better than that. Iris Cendre could be the perfect iris.

iris-cendre-naomi-goodsirPhoto Stolen Naomi Goodsir

Further reading: Now Smell This and Colognoisseur
Peony Melbourne has $239/50ml
Surrender To Chance has $6/.5ml

Have you tried any of the Naomi Goodsir range? Are you excited about this one?
Now we just have to keep waiting for the next installment Nuit de Bakelite, a creation with Isabelle Doyen of the Annick Goutal range. MMMMM
Portia xx

 

Or du Serail by Bertrand Duchaufour for Naomi Goodsir 2014

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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Or du Serail by Bertrand Duchaufour for Naomi Goodsir 2014

Or du Serail Naomi Goodsir FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Apple, red berries, mango, sweet orange
Heart: Rum, artemisia, sage, coconut, geranium, ylang-ylang, mate
Base: Labdanum, beeswax, honey, tobacco, amber, oak tree, cedar, musk and vanilla

Tart, citrus and dried fruits – mango, sweet orange are the top notes that grab me at first whiff. Followed immediately with golden, sparkling, not smokin’ tobacco. It’s pretty and reminds me of midsummer hot hot heat. The tobacco journey continues, and with a touch of bitter cocoa, and clary sage, it forms the under laying and robust foundation of this beauty. It’s savory underneath, and yet sweet gourmand notes play about delightfully on top. It’s as if someone dropped a basket of dried fruits and rum on a freshly mulched tobacco haystack, and now its warming in the sun.

Or du Serail Naomi Goodsir  mango PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

I first tried this, after I had just bought a bottle of Frapin’s 1270 from Peony in Melbourne (a rummy pineapple and chocolate love of mine – thanks to Portia’s review). My beautifully wrapped parcel arrived, and to my delight I noticed Jill had been generous and included some new release samples, of course Naomi Godsir’s Or Du Serail being one- She had said on the phone; “If you like 1270, you will LOVE Naomi’s Or du Serail”. She was right!

Thirty minutes on and its notes are all humming the same tune – perfectly attuned strings, all singing a big tobacco song. I keep thinking of golden light, at the end of a summer’s day -the streaming golden light I’m always happy to see cropping up on my instagram feed as friends in various countries conclude their days activities.

Or du Serail Naomi Goodsir   Istanbul_cafe WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

The fruit drenched tobacco notes and light smoke remind me of London, I lived around the corner from a particular Turkish restaurant (Gallipoli on Upper St, Angel – in case you wish to visit), where people smoked shish and the smell would waft down the street – dry, fruity tobacco with mango and apple flavors.
Its here, and with the rum notes, lies the similarities with Frapin’s 1270, but put side by side, they are actually quite quite different. 1270 goes off on a flirty fun, yet sophisticated, pineapple fruit cocktail tangent, held into line by bitter chocolate undertones. The Or du Serail focuses in on the golden scents of tobacco, honey and mango, seeming to be deeper, more serious. ODS is like the steadfast, sophisticated fruit-cocktail sipper, tobacco pouch in hand, cedarwood pipe nearby, enjoying the last of the golden rays of afternoon sunshine. 1270, is more camp, and probably inside preparing for a fun night of dancing and dressups later. I’m not anyone needs a bottle of both, I would recommend trying both and seeing how you go.

The deep dry down of vanilla-rum and honeyed orange-amber, almost sued, smokey in parts, hinting sweet and humming beautifully, is just so tasty and robust. I really do love it. It does not project too strongly. It’s one of those yummy ones you have to get up nice and close to someone to really enjoy. I would recommend this fragrance for both men and women.

Further reading: Colognoisseur
LuckyScent has $187/50ml
First In Fragrance has 125/50ml
Peony Melbourne has $210/50ml with FREE Australian Shipping
Surrender To Chance has $5/.5ml

I would love to hear others experiences…..I feel like I am now in love with 2, non-identical, twins from different makers!!

Ainslie Walker x