New Study (Postcard) by Miller et Bertaux 2017

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Portia

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Hey APJ,

We have spoken before here about Miller & Bertaux. I think them a woefully underlined fragrance house that do fun and interesting scents that are edgy but wearable. I have bought bottles of A Quiet Morning, Shanti Shanti and Spiritus/Land. Woods, Incense & Balmy/Spicy/Green Woods. Because they release with little or no fanfare I have missed a few years worth of new frags.

That was rectified at the Esxence in Milan last week where Miller et Bertaux had a stand. Sadly I was so overwhelmed by Esxence as a whole I couldn’t really focus. So without being able to really stop, converse and sniff I did go and tell the man at the counter how much I loved their work. The guy was so thrilled he gave me a full set of their samples to try. YAY!! Including the newest release New Study (Postcard).

New Study (Postcard) by Miller et Bertaux 2017

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Green orange, lemon, grapefruit, grass, white peach blossom, precious woods, fig, coconut milk, fig leaf

So whoever names these frags needs a good slap around the head, the newer names are hardly engaging. They seem like punchlines to jokes we’ll never hear. It’s a bummer.

The citrus jumps out at you right from the start. It’s lip puckeringly tart and has a sweet, pithy background which helps keep the whole fragrance grounded. It’s a smily and welcoming opening that gives me a goofy grin.

It’s not long before the citrus is joined by the coconut and fig and it’s unusual that these two additions don’t make the scent go tropical or even Mediterranean but create a coziness, a warm friendly lived-in feeling.

So I’m now looking at the name of the fragrance, Postcard. As I’m one of the last people on earth that sends postcards every holiday it’s like a lightbulb has gone on in my head. The citrus is the air mail adventure of the postcard, the war foggy-milk bit is the arrival and all the good feelings that engenders and then the dry down is a warm, woodsy/sweet-fig-milk that could be the life of a postcard on the fridge in the kitchen that gets looked at every time someone opens the fridge and brings a smile.

Yes, I’m probably full of shit but there you have it.

Libertine Parfumerie will have it in Australia when it comes in

A cozy version of fig, very nice and wearable. I could imagine it becoming a very easy go-to frag for someone who likes to have really unusual, hard to find brands but also wants to smell office appropriate.

Do you know Miller & Bertaux?
Portia xx

 

NEW!: Creed, Juliette Has A Gun and Frapin

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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Nick Smart’s desk at Agence de Parfum’s HQ (Libertine Parfumerie) often holds exciting secrets. Last week he had just returned from a buying trip in Europe…Squeal!! I dashed for the pile of boxes and had a quick sniff. These are my first thoughts and REVEALS:

NEW!: Creed, Juliette Has A Gun and Frapin

 A fleeting whiff! New niche releases

Creed Royal Princess Oud

Creed: Princess Oud is an oriental floral for women launching in Australia in March 2016, also created by in-house nose Oliver Creed. Before sniffing I thought of the words “princess” and “oud” and conjured up an imagined scent being sweet, girlie and dense with oud. I was right. An appealing, possibly heading towards ‘crowd pleasing,’ fragrance which paves a pathway between Middle Eastern and Western perfumes. It’s far too icky-sweet for me, personally. Maybe not so original but it’s done very well, this review is from a card so skin mileage will vary.

Creed: Royal Mayfair, a unisex fragrance launching here in December is a remake of Windsor, the limited edition of 2009, renamed and no longer limited. Whoop! Windsor was originally created in 1936 for King Edward VIII of England. Ingredients take us on a tour of the British Empire he ruled and makes for an interesting olfactive tale, in which Australia features, with the inclusion of “our” eucalyptus. Nose Oliver Creed has combined London gin, Jamaican lime, Scottish Highland pine tree atop of “Duke of Windsor” roses and orange from the Bahamas over Canadian cedar and AUSTRALIAN eucalyptus. I stopped and took notice when I first sniffed and it gets better and more beautiful and distinctive on drydown. My current gin based fragrance is Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling…could this be next?

Frapin: The Orchid Man is being compared to Aventus and due in Australia for release in January. Call me an alien but I am no massive fan of Aventus. Obviously I appreciate it, but mostly it’s too macho, and frankly that’s not who I like to nuzzle up too. Add to this all the comments re “panty dropping” I see on fragrance forums and I think its killed it for me (pants definitely up to the point of wedging!) My favourite pineapple note in perfumes is in Frapin’s 1270. So I was intrigued thinking, “could Frapin’s take possibly be a better and more affordable Aventus with 1270’s magical pineapples and woods?” No. It’s missing the pineapple sadly, but it is very similar to Aventus.

Juliette Has A Gun Another oud

Juliette Has a Gun: Another Oud will be released in Australia in Feb 2016 (lets hope this means another visit to Oz from sexy Parisian, Romano Ricci, father of the brand..!) I smell the musks and ambroxan JHAG are famous for with oud floating up eventually from underneath. A dry oud scent. On the skin however Another Oud comes to life and there’s more to it than first expected, including some raspberry fruit and intensifying oud. I’d like to spend more time with this fragrance as it has all the elements to be very sensual.

Libertine Parfumerie has samples and bottles. FREE Australian Delivery over $100
First In Fragrance if you’re in Europe
LuckyScent in the USA
Surrender To Chance is a great way to sample before you buy too

What have you discovered lately that’s new to market or you that has touched you?
Ainslie Walker

Walking Over Harbour Bridge with Baily Nov 2015Photos Donated Ainslie Walker

 

One Direction – Between Us 2015 Ad

Hi there APJ,

Love them or hate them it’s hard to ignore One Direction. With their catchy tunes, fun matesy boys club attitude and perfectly produced handsome, on trend good looks they are a force to be reckoned with. I quite liked their first offering Our Moment, the sweet but not disgustingly cloying opening to the lingering forever toasted almond dry down. It was way better than I expected.

between-us One Direction

I haven’t tried the new one but the ad came out yesterday. Sadly Zane has moved on but the remaining four guys are here and camping it up again, my favourite is Niall anyway.

Enjoy,
Portia xx

One Direction – Between Us – (New Perfume 2015)