L’Insomnuit by Robert Piguet 2016

.

Portia

.

Hey Crew,

You may know how I love splits? It’s when one person buys a bottle, decants out portions and sells them on. They are a wonderful way to test a load of fragrances for not much more than the price of the juice. It can get addictive though and I regularly spend a hunk cash on them.

The past creative director of Robert Piguet, Joe GarcesI left some really happy memories. He came to Australia a few years ago as Piguet was re-establishing themselves as a fragrant player and held some super fun Master Classes. Joe told us stories of the creation and recreation of the piglet line and how each fragrance came about. It was fun but also riveting listening, he knew how to engage us and answered questions. I already loved Bandit and fracas but this opened a whole new world for me and the others present.

So, when Robert Piguet launches something new I try to get to it as soon as possible.

L’Insomnuit by Robert Piguet 2016

Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Plum, Bergamot, Fir balsam
Heart: Orris absolute, Iris concrete, Oud
Base: Cedarwood, Cypriol, Tonka bean absolute, Sandalwood

Tonka, fir and iris compete for opening honours. A very interesting dry, sweet, powdery, woody mix that doesn’t remind me of anything else as it opens. It seems to be its own thing. Basically a wood extravaganza but slightly bakery-esque. The iris is very dry, slightly cardboard, and a little earthy but the interesting juxtaposition of the tonka sweetness (I think there is some vanilla too) and the creamy sandalwood make it so unusual to me.

From the notes I thought this next pic would be exactly what the fragrance would smell like but L’Insomnuit is far more interesting than that.

PXHere

 

Oudh? I don’t smell any oudh, like seriously zero oudhishness. The plum also passes me by.

There is a recurring moment through the heart of L’Insomnuit where I am suddenly reminded of Eau d’Italie Morn To Dusk. A similar golden treacle heft, so dense and gooey, thick and rich. Not the same but the feeling is similar and equally as extravagant.

For anyone who likes vanilla but is bored of how it is usually sent out in the 21st century this could be a nice not quite so super sweet option. Longevity is excellent, sillage moderate to good. I’d love to smell this on a really manly man in wrestling outfit, suit or overalls. It would definitely be an attractant.

WikiCommons

Further reading: Fragrance Daily
Libertine has $299/100ml FREE Australian Delivery
Surrender To Chance has samples from $5.50/ml

Do you have a favourite Piguet?
Portia xx

 

 

100ml La Fille de Berlin by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2013

.

Portia

.

Heya APJ Crew,

Lots of people have been bitching about the brand new bottle and I understand that nobody likes change. I also understand that if you have a set of Serge Lutens bottles that this is not going to fit. What did you do when you changed to CDs? Yes. This is the excuse you needed to get a new set. I do like that price per ml has gone down. I think that is really classy of Shishedo, when every body else is aspirational pricing their arses out of my ballpark. Serge Lutens is still making a fabulous, affordable product. Now I can uberspritz my La Fille De Berlin with no thought to running out.

When the new bottle was first available in Paris I got my bottle but things have been so hectic around here I didn’t get time to write you my thoughts.

La Fille de Berlin by Serge Lutens 2013

La Fille de Berlin by Christopher Sheldrake

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Rose, geranium
Heart: Palmarosa
Base: Oakmoss, honey, patchouli

Cherry roses and pepper on opening with a softly metallic twang. Interesting how quickly it dries out. On Tina’s skin it stayed a crisp snap of cutting of a rose stem, violet and geranium – much cooler, where my skin the honey has taken over almost immediately and you can definitely smell the dryness of palmarosa. Smells expensive. So many Serge Lutens are freaky – this misses out on the freaky and is a very expensive rose + glam. Unusually for Serge, the honey is clean and not so animalic. We’re not smelling any of the bees or the wax on either of our skins.

La Fille de Berlin makes me smile. The rose is deep and burnished and a little bit boozy.

So fragrant yet La Fille de Berlin isn’t in your face, it manages to be quite a heavy perfume but restrained. It hits my dressed up evening button but I’ve also been enjoying wearing it in the warm spring daytime air around here.

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and EauMG
Mecca has some $171/50ml and $294/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples from $6/ml

What do you think of the new 100ml bottles?
Portia xx

Ambre Mythique by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier 2016

.

Portia

.

Hey Hey Amber Lovers,

It’s turning cooler in the northern Hemisphere and we are still having cool nights in Sydney. A fragrance that seemed to miss getting much attention last year when it was released Ambre Mythique is another wonderful amber from a house that does them so well.

Many of us went through an amber stage very early in our perfumista career so we tend to think we have tried everything and what the hell could they do different or better than some of our favourites? I think that the MPG gang have succeeded in adding a new twist, also for those AMBER HATERS this could very well be the change in amber that’s needed to get you across to the dark side.

Recently I grabbed this out with Rasei of Forte & Manlé and Kerri while at lunch and the both agreed that Ambre Mythique is a very special amber.

Ambre Mythique by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier 2016

Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top:  Bergamot, Geranium, Coriander, Frankincense
Heart: Myrrh, Lavender, Cistus
Base: Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Tonka bean

Nowadays MPG feels sadly neglected, good call to finally get around to updating bottle and lid. This new look is a cool reimagining of their gaudy old style, while a little of the whimsy remains.

The opening is a herbaceous twist in the amber theme, very interesting, like they’ve done complimentary sprays on each arm of a fougere and an amber fragrance. Totally enjoying the dryness over the crunchy sweet amber that is also cut by the patchouli. I am LOVING this. Quite unique.

PDI

Amber and other incense-y resins make very nice warm and cool juxtapositions, a little bit animal and funky too. Honeyed and furry. The whole fragrance is plush and lavish from beginning to end. Amber Mythique even smells great in warm weather,  currently Sydney is around 26C (79F) and I feel like I’m wearing the freshest amber ever. The lavender is a surprise and reappears intermittently throughout my wear right through to dry down.

Comfortable and unusual, safe for work but interesting enough to spend 3 hours on the couch enjoying the ride.

Further reading: Perfume Posse and Megan In St Maxime
LuckyScent has $190/120ml and Samples

Do you amber?
Portia xx

New Autumnal Scents and Amouage Lilac Love

.

Sandra.

.

Hey there dear APJ! How are you all doing? I hope that life is treating you very well.

Autumn has shown its face early here in Rotterdam. Early I say simply because I am not used to it coming this early. Naturally the leaves are changing colour and falling (all in different stages too) but the sun is really low, it is almost blinding. I have only ever experienced this special lighting up in Norway and have found it to be both eerie and alluring. My nose is on high alert here as there are so many new scents that I am taking in this year. It is in part because of the move north but also because we no longer live in a city. We live in a house in a suburb with a garden.

New Autumnal Scents and Amouage Lilac Love

The first smell that comes to mind is the wet damp earth. It is seriously wet here. It was so bad in September for about 10 days that I kept teasing my son that we will need to build ourselves a boat so we can have a ride to school. There is a dampness in the air, especially now in autumn where not only is the asphalt emitting its own scent but so are the fallen leaves.

Some homes are starting to have fires in the fireplaces now and I loooove that smell. Together with the damp earth, the wood and the smoke gives me a sense of calm and a feeling of home. My favorite time of the day is when I walk home with our son after school and all of these homey scents greet my eager nose.

This past weekend we were blessed with plenty of sunshine and warm temperatures. Saturday we biked for 30km and my son will tell you that we broke his muscles with that ride. It was a gorgeous ride in the greenery and then along the Rotte River. We got to smell chestnuts and leaves, but also the last of the blooming flowers. Have I mentioned of how stunning all of the blooming plants and trees are here in the Netherlands? There is always colour outside even in the dead of winter. Amouage Bracken Woman was the perfect companion for our Saturday bike ride. Bracken Woman is herbal, green and woody. All the elements of autumn in a bottle.

Sunday was another glorious day but our son protested the idea of another bike ride so we took a long walk in our neighborhood. We let him lead the way with no destination in mind and we somehow stumbled upon a city garden called Natuurtalent. The herbs alone were intoxicating to smell. They have a wood work area and the smell of fresh wood shavings surrounded by green herbs and blooming plants will ensure our return. It was a perfect place for our son to explore and he was allowed to smell things too. Since it was such a warm day I wore Amouage Lilac Love which bloomed into a floral powdery slightly spicy perfume. It is a beautiful perfume that I would wear often if I owned a bottle.

Here are a few pictures of our sunny warm weekend. Yes, Rotterdam really is this green. Now the fog has set in this week and I need to make a pumpkin soup to really get into the season.

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Jasmine, rose, gardenia, peony, heliotrope
Heart: Orris, cacao, tonka bean
Base: Sandalwood, patchouli, vanilla

Libertine has $499/1ooml FREE Australian Postage
Surrender To Chance has samples from $4/0.5ml

Do you have a favorite season? Do you like any Amouage perfumes? I would love to hear from you.

Stay safe and healthy. Until next time.
Sandra xoxo

 

(Ed: All photos taken by Sandra unless specified)

Baie Rose 26 by Frank Voelkl for Le Labo 2010

.

Portia

.

Hi there Niche Nerds,

Todays fragrance was released as the Le Labo Chicago city exclusive. You may remember that I find the Le Labo adventure somewhat wankerish. The whole, we’ll mix it for you in store so it’s fresh shit doesn’t wash for me. Just because the ingredients haven’t been blended yet doesn’t make them any fresher, AND it takes months for the damn fragrances to settle properly after you buy them. It’s all a big fat GRRR for me.

Nevertheless when Le Labo get it right they do make some fairly spectacular frags.

One of my mates was doing a decant cleanout and I was lucky enough to buy this baby from them. There’s only about 2-3ml left in a 15ml so it has been well loved.

Baie Rose 26 by Le Labo 2010

Baie Rose 26 by Frank Voelkl

Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Rose absolute, Pink pepper, Musk, Cedar, Aldehydes, Ambrox, Clove, Pepper

Victoria from Bois de Jasmin taught me something in my reading today, “baie rose means pink pepper in French”. AHA! So not only is Le Labo doing its usual name it something and have it smell like something else trick but there is also a pun in action. Clever. Funnily, both the pepper and rose are front & centre for most of the scent.

So here we smell the interesting by-play between rose and pink pepper.

The opening is all rose and metallic sparkling aldehydes shimmering over the pink pepper. It’s a meaty, thick and dense scent that also manages to feel lightweight and airy. Haughty and powerful are the two words that keep coming to my mind while wearing Baie Rose 26, also masculine (which is weird because I try not to subscribe to frag gender unless it punches me in the face wit it).

PDI

Baie Rose 26 is cool, in both the frosty and fun refinement explanations. It has a space age feel about it and a metallic twang, the best way to present roses in my mind.

I get fleeting correlations to other roses CK Contradiction Woman, Amouage Opus X and Oriza L. Legrand Royal Fillet. Not same obviously but there are resemblances.

The musk, ambrox, wood dry down is far less exciting that the first hours of Baie Rose 26 life. It doesn’t implode into banal but it isn’t a showstopper. A comfortable, safe scent that lasts and lasts with a hint of rose.

PDI

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Non Blonde

Did you ever get to try this beauty?
Portia xx

Criminal Elements Sample Pack GIVEAWAY WINNER

.

Portia

.

YAY!

Another great giveaway! Thanks Corey from Criminal Elements for sending us this ridiculously gorgeous sample pack. Can’t wait to see who wins it.

 

 

Criminal Elements Sample Pack GIVEAWAY WINNER

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 1 winner who will receive:
1 x Criminal Elements Base Elements Sample Pack
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 1st October 2017 10pm Australian EdsT
Winner was chosen by random.org

Jaybee

The winner will have till Sunday 8th October 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

L’Insoumis by Lalique GIVEAWAY WINNERS

.

Portia

.

Hey there Fumies,

Thank you so much to Kate at Sweet Fern for being so generous. Go check out their stock. Great range.

 

L’Insoumis by Lalique GIVEAWAY WINNERS

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 5 winners who will receive:
1 x 2ml spray L’Insoumis by Lalique Manufacturers Carded Sample
P&H Anywhere in the world

 

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 1st October 2017 10pm Australian EdsT
Winners were chosen by random.org

Neva

Gina

Fazal

Greg

Bradley P Woolslayer

The winners will have till Sunday 8th October 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit