NEW!! Sakura by DIOR Privé 2017




Hey Crew,

Just arrived in my hands is one of DIOR’s newest set of releases. Apparently they are available in the Paris store so far and maybe NYC but they still don’t even know about them in the Sydney DIOR store, but were really excited by the news. It’s all so new that aren’t even up on fragrantica or parfumo yet, so no notes lists. So today’s post is mainly guesswork. We can all have a laugh when the lists are revealed.

Sakura by DIOR Privé 2017

The only two notes I can find are on baseNotes and they are Cherry Blossom and Almond. As sakura means cherry blossoms that makes sense.

Cherry and greenery open. A wet, sheer, delicate fragrance that has an interesting warmth underneath the cool fruit and frosty cool morning feel. Like going out to get the newspaper on a frosty weekend morning in your warm tracksuit, Uggs and robe. Though it’s cold you are kept warm by your prior internal heat from being in the house. Why a weekend? Sakura feels like there is time, no rush, a calm embrace to the day. Maybe you have already made your morning tea and while you get the paper it’s steeping. There is also a tea feel, dry tea leaves and the dry ache at the back of your throat when drinking it.

Sakura by DIOR Privé 2017 cherry blossom watercolour pixabayPDI

The almond is a constant base where all the lighter, wetter and more colourful notes can float around but remain anchored. You know after you’ve had a biscotti and tea? There is a curious taste that follows these together, it’s a happy and comfortable taste. Sakura has moments of smelling like that taste. I think there is vetiver and maybe sandalwood but the creaminess could be ylang.

I would more have expected this style of scent to come from L’Occitane than DIOR but it’s smooth, unrumpled, comfortable elegance does also put me in mind of DIOR post Raf Simons and into the Maria Grazia Chiuri era. It’s pretty and effortless, a softly shimmering scent that will be perfect for the modern day fragrance wearer. Not incredible or ground breaking, in fact quite derivative of what we’ve smelled before but done in a luxurious way. Closer to Hermès that DIOR.

Are you excited by the prospect?
Portia xx


Lutens, Mugler, Penhaligon’s GIVEAWAY WINNERS




Hey Crew,

Thanks for getting i9nvolved this week. SORRY I’m late with the draw. It’s been bloody hectic around here.
Portia xx

Lutens, Mugler, Penhaligon’s GIVEAWAY WINNERS


This week there will be 3 winners who will receive:
2 x Carded Samples from the above, not matching (NO you don’t get to choose)
There will also be some interesting extras
P&H Anywhere in the world



Entries Closed Wednesday 2nd August 2017 10pm Australian EdsT
Winners were chosen by

David Hallinan


Katherine M

The winners will have till Wednesday 9th August 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Pichola by Bertrand Duchaufour for Neela Vermeire Creations 2015




Hi there APJ,

Sorry we are a bit late tonight but I completely forgot there was no post written for tonight on APJ. OOPSIE! So I thought I’d write about my fragrance tonight for work. Thursdays are really good nights for me and I’ve been in the same venue for 15+ years, the players have become friends. Many of them I’ve been to their, and they’ve been to my, home. We’ve shared so much. Watched children grow and go through Uni, get married, travel, and settle down to family life. Some of the older players are now downsizing or thinking of moving into retirement villages.

Anyway, tonight I wore Nichola and they loved it. Four random compliments.

Pichola by Neela Vermeire Creations 2015

Pichola by Bertrand Duchaufour


Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cardamom, cinnamon, saffron, juniper, magnolia, neroli oil, clementine, bergamot
Heart: Orange blossom absolute, rose absolute, tuberose absolute, sambac jasmine, ylang-ylang
Base: Benzoin absolute, sandalwood , driftwood, Haiti vetiver

Sweet citrus, white flowers and sharp juniper open Pichola as a burst of tart, mouth watering and puckering simultaneously. It’s a short-lived explosion that is exciting, over the top and surprisingly refreshing.

reflectionsNeela Vermeire Creations Pichola

Once the big bang is over Pichola smooths out to creamy white flowers and a hint of cardamom that helps keep the flowers soft and furry rather than a strident BWF. Actually, now that I think about it, Pichola could be an excellent choice for those that don’t love white flowers. Somehow Mr Dachaufour has taken out the indoor and teeth yet still retained the beautiful clean fleshy plushness. Quite a feat.

Even in dry down after working tonight I remain quite fragrant but in a introverted way. Soft white flowers, a hint of spicy rose and creamy sandalwood. As people hugged me goodbye tonight was when three of my compliments happened,. even though I’d been in and around them all night.

Neela Vermeire Creations Pichola magnolia_pichola

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Scented Hound
LuckyScent has 2 x 15ml – Take Two Travel Set for $125
Surrender To Chance has samples from $7/ml

Did you ever try Pichola?
Portia xx

(Ed: All photos from Neela Vermeire Creations)

Savoy Steam by Juliette Karagueuzoglou for Penhaligon`s 2017


Ainslie Walker of Scentsmith 


Hello Australian Perfume Junkies!

It has been a while since I have written a piece for you and I hope you’re all fragrant and well.

Last week I attended the Australian launch of Savoy Steam by Penhaligon’s at Sydney’s Langham Hotel. Hosted by Penhaligon’s Australian distributers, Agence de Parfums, it was a beautiful breakfast event with a fitting quaint English feel. There were plenty of familiar faces and I was lucky to be sitting on Michael Edwards of Fragrances of the World’s table. (NB Hot gossip from his world is that at the end of this year he will be moving back to Sydney permanently, yippee!!)

We shared homemade pastries and teacakes over tea and coffees in a ‘high tea’ style. Tables were set gorgeously with personalised calligraphy placards. The venue was in keeping with the colours of the fragrances packaging, in particular the bow on the bottles – beige and blue. The packaging is a nod to the early Turkish bathhouses popular in London from the early 20th century. Blue and beige like the traditional cloths and towels used even now. The box is simplistic yet head turning, wrapped in textured linen, it’s lovely and textured in the hand.

Michael Edwards introduced the brand and it’s long history before Michael, trainer from Agence de Parfums introduced the fragrance – drumroll: Savoy Steam!

Savoy Steam by Penhaligon`s 2017

Savoy Steam by Juliette Karagueuzoglou

Savoy Steam Penhaligon`s fragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, lemon, eucalyptus, mint, pink pepper, rosemary
Heart: Rose, geranium, cardamom, hedione, tea
Base: Benzoin, incense, vanilla, white musk

The fragrance celebrates the very first fragrance in Penhaligon’s portfolio, Hammam Bouquet from 1872. Also, as evident by the name, the scent honours the Savoy Hotel an iconic London Establishment.

If I’m honest, on arrival I expected an old fashioned barbershop scent and nothing more. I worked for years in the men’s grooming industry in London, so believe me I have smelt a few of these!! However in more ways than one, I ate my hat!! Dubbed “gender neutral” in the press release I also found the scent very much ‘on the fence.’ On paper I initially smelt rosemary – aromatic. However on skin, quite, quite different. I quickly understood a focus on the sweeter aspect of rosemary as being in the spotlight. Spiciness, described in the notes as pink pepper also to me has a cardamom like freshness. Geranium in combination makes for a rosy heart.

On my skin the fragrance remains quite sweet but spiciness lingers somewhere…incense like a faint Come des garcons Avignon – tart, bright frankincense and still huffs of sweetness. There is a juicy, wet feel to the beginning of Savoy Steam. I can imagine steam on cement. Nothing though is barbershop or old fashioned. A very nice and modern easy wear. Gentle and slightly feminine in its sweetness. If either of my grandfathers were still alive I would gift them my bottle. Not at all because it’s old fashioned, just because its gentle and sweet like they were – I think this fragrance would be absolutely lovely on a more mature gents skin, a silver fox of sorts…someone like softly spoken but majestic David Attenborough. He could wear it out to dinner.

Further reading: Scented Salamander
Libertine Parfumerie has $279/100ml

It makes me wonder what else I feel works for this age group…Do you have any favourite fragrances for folk over 60? What works, what doesn’t and why? Are fragrances ageist?

Until next time,
Ainslie XX

(Ed: All photos by Ainslie Walker unless specified. Beautiful Ainslie XXXX)

Lutens, Mugler, Penhaligon’s




Hey Crew,

I’m drowning in samples here. It’s getting out of hand so I’ve decided this week to put a few samples in the giveaway. They’re all carded manufacturers samples. Good luck.

Lutens, Mugler, Penhaligon’s

Serge Lutens: Arabie and Cedre

These samples were given to me on my 2013 first visit to the Serge Lutens Palais Royale store in Paris. I was so overwhelmed at even being there I didn’t notice that the SA was giving me samples for bottles already in my collection. They have sat forlorn and untouched since. It’s time to move them on.

Thierry Mugler: Alien and Angel

While buying Mon Guerlain, A*Men Kryptomint and something for Jin in Luxembourg earlier this year, as we were leaving to catch the train, I was given a bag of samples by the SA which was full of wonderful stuff. I have bottles of both of these though and they really need a new home. Bugler has done some really excellent scents, these two are just the beginning.

Penhaligon’s: Clandestine Clara and Roaring Radcliff

I love the stories that came with this set of fragrances, go look them up. Hilarious and naughty. The quirky (and extremely heavy) brass heads are fun too. I had longevity issues with these but hopefully they will hold to your skin better than mine because the scents are very nice.

Lutens, Mugler, Penhaligon’s GIVEAWAY


This week there will be 3 winners who will receive:
2 x Carded Samples from the above, not matching (NO you don’t get to choose)
There will also be some interesting extras
P&H Anywhere in the world


Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ


Please tell us which of these you would most like to try


Entries Close Wednesday 2nd August 2017 10pm Australian EdsT and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by
The winners will have till Wednesday 9th August 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Saturday Question: What’s On Your Perfume Wishlist?




Hello Fellow Fumies,

Once a week here on Australian Perfume Junkies we have a Question, an idea purloined from Olfactoria’s Travels. Everyone gets to chime in with an answer, chat with other responders and it is generally a fun event each week. Taking sides never means taking offence and everyone keeps it respectful and light, even though we can sometimes trawl the depths.

The idea is you’ll see it on the weekend or chime in through the week. Hopefully you will come back and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them.

Over 100 responses I will draw a $10 Surrender To Chance Gift Card.
Over 200 responses I will draw a $20 Surrender To Chance Gift Card.
Comment purposefully on yours or anothers comment & you’ll have a chance, will draw on Friday.

Last Weeks Winner: $10 Surrender To Chance Gift Card Lillibet

Saturday Question: What’s On Your Perfume Wishlist?


What’s On Your Perfume Wishlist? My Answer…

OK, so here’s my WishList from June 2015

Portia’s TO-BUY List June 2015

  1. 25.9.11 by Hilde Soliani
  2. Absolue Pour le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
  3. Aedes de Venustas – Original
  4. Ambra di Luna by Ramon Monegal
  5. Ambra Mediterranea by Profumi del Forte
  6. Barkhane by Teo Cabanel
  7. Bottega Veneta parfum
  8. Chambre Noire by Olfactive Studio
  9. Cologne by Thierry Mugler
  10. Cuir Cuba Intense by Parfums De Nicolai
  11. Eau Absolue by Mona di Orio
  12. Encens Mythique d’Orient by Guerlain
  13. eo03 by biehl parfumkunstwerke
  14. Fleur Nocturne by Isabey
  15. Grandiflora Michel by Magnolia Grandiflora
  16. Granville by Christian Dior
  17. Hedonist by Viktoria Minya
  18. Moon Bloom by Hiram Green
  19. Jasmin et Cigarette by Etat Libre d’Orange
  20. Jasmin Rouge by Tom Ford
  21. L´Ombre Fauve by Parfumerie Générale
  22. Lea by Calypso St. Barth
  23. Lux by Mona di Orio
  24. Misia by CHANEL
  25. Nuit d’Amour by Guerlain
  26. Nuit de Noel Parfum by Caron
  27. Or du Serail by Naomi Goodsir
  28. Oriental Mint by Phaedon Paris
  29. Pichola by Neela Vermeire Creations
  30.  Rozy Eau de Parfum by Vero Profumo
  31. Sensual Orchid by LM Parfums
  32. Silver Man by Amouage
  33. Special for Gentlemen by Le Galion
  34. Sushi Imperiale by Bois 1920
  35. Tobacco Rose by Papillon Perfumery
  36. Tokyo Bloom by The Different Company
  37. Tzor’a by Anat Fritz
  38. Wit by Parfums DelRae
    I may have added a few more since then
  39. Ombre de Hyacinth by Tom Ford
  40. Vert Boheme by Tom Ford
  41. No 18 EdP by CHANEL
  42. Bois des Iles EdP by CHANEL
  43. Tobacco Nuit by Atelier cologne
  44. Sables by Annick Goutal
  45. De Profundis by Serge Lutens (Vaporisateur)
  46. Dõjima by Mona di Orio
  47. Suède de Suède by Mona di Orio
  48. Tadzio by Homoelegans
  49. 754 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
  50. Daiquiris by Laboratorio Olfattivo

Anything with a line through means I’ve bought a bottle. Anything blue means I’ve changed my mind on it for whatever reason.

Let’s keep your WISHLIST to Top 5.

So my question to you today is: What are the Top 5 things on your wishlist?


Calligraphy Rose by Trudi Loren for Aramis 2013




Hey APJ,

I remember wanting this trilogy so bad when they came out but somehow they never made it into the final buy. Recently a friend sent me a large sample in with a bottle I bought and I thought it might be fun to take a look at it now after four more years to see if it’s still on the list. Especially now that the discounters have it for a song.

Calligraphy Rose by Aramis 2013

Calligraphy Rose by Trudi Loren

Calligraphy Rose Aramis FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Oregano, saffron, honeysuckle
Heart: Turkish rose, myrrh, styrax, lavender
Base: Labdanum, musk, ambergris, olibanum

The opening of Calligraphy rose is very much like Turkish Delight. A soft rosewater jelly rolled in sugar, beautiful. This impression doesn’t last very long before the fragrance turns very rose, a clean, green, dry, tea rose. It’s sweet but not sickly, the perfect balance. Sheer but fragrant and not something you’d expect from the mass market. It also tackles the Middle East in a very soft and gentle manner without any of the usual hyper-masculine oud and woods attached to the rose.

Calligraphy Rose Aramis SevenSeventyFive FlickrFlickr

In Calligraphy Rose the resins and rose join seamlessly and the humanity is very clean. I’m imagining, from my zero experience of such things other than through literature and TV, this is what a freshly washed woman in the harem or zenana would smell like. It’s a hairless fleshiness, overlaid with spicy resins and rosewater. A cool sensuality that I would love to smell on a man. On the average Aussie guy Calligraphy Rose would be totally unexpected and a delightful surprise. Also, thinking of the hours of work and the way fragrance melds with the bodies own fragrant offerings it would add dimensions undreamed of.

Calligraphy Rose Aramis Senior_wives_chaupar_1790 WikiCommonsWikiCommons

Like most Aramis scents the longevity is excellent and projection very good for the first few hours. I wish more men smelled like this.

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Persolaise
FragranceNet has around $50/100ml

Did you try or buy this one?
Portia xx