Boy by Olivier Polge for CHANEL Les Exclusifs 2016

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Post by Anne-Marie

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Hi all,

it’s Anne-Marie here with a question: how much does the season influence your daily fragrance choice?

My answer: quite a lot. Generally, it’s winter fragrances for me in the winter and summer in the summer.

I would not dream of stepping out of the house on those winter mornings when the temp struggles to even reach zero in a summer eau de cologne. Conversely, warm orientals and ambers stifle me in summer, like a jacket I long to fling off.

But there are exceptions. It’s winter where I live and today was probably the most miserable day we have had so far: wet, windy and cold. I wore Chanel Boy.

Boy by Olivier Polge for CHANEL Les Exclusifs 2016

Seasonal Somersaults! Do You Wear The Weather?

Boy Chanel Chanel FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Lavender, rose, lemon, grapefruit, rose geranium, orange blossom, sandalwood, heliotrope, vanilla, musk

Is Boy a summer or a winter fragrance? It’s a fougère with notes including lavender, grapefruit, and lemon, and that sounds pretty cologne-ish to me. Normally I’d keep this kind of thing for warm weather. But those cool, fresh notes can sometimes be welcome in the winter. You know those days when you tire of overheated rooms and heavy layers? You open a window, or step out into the rain, and revel in the rush of cold air against you face and in your lungs.

In Boy there is also a contrasting warmth to the base (musk, vanilla, sandalwood). I’m only just getting acquainted with it but so far I’m thinking that Boy may be one of the most versatile fragrances I own.

Boy CHANEL Alexey Ivanov Rain FlickrFlickr

The rain was belting down when I left work this evening. I had to catch two buses instead of one, and I missed my final stop because I had been too busy reading. Darn! I struggled home with an inside out umbrella, leaking shoes, and the sole nearly off one shoe. Flap flap flap.

What did I do when I got home? More Chanel Boy, of course!

Further reading: Now Smell This and Bl’eauog
CHANEL Beauty, Fashion and some large Department Stores. We go to David Jones
CHANEL Online in the USA

What about you? Do you match cool notes with warm days, and vice versa? Or do you spritz merrily at whatever takes your fancy?
Bye for now!

Boy EdP by Olivier Polge for CHANEL 2016

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Post by Robert Herrmann

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Hi Fragrant Friends!

Heres I am writing from my small island home in the great Pacific Northwest….

Funny thing about this new Chanel…when I first wore it I was decidedly ambivalent about it. So I wore it the next day, just to be sure. And then the next day and and and…..now I am completely obsessed with it, and find myself reaching for it at some point almost every day!!!

Boy EdP by CHANEL 2016

Boy EdP by Olivier Polge

Boy Chanel Chanel FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Lavender, rose, lemon, grapefruit, rose geranium, orange blossom, sandalwood, heliotrope, vanilla, musk.
The CHANEL website also adds fern to the list.

Boy EdP is classified as an Aromatic Fougere. Now admittedly, the fougere family of scent is not one of my favorites, I find the notes to be scarce and repetitive, and they often go bitter/sour on my skin. However this new Chanel for the Les Exclusifs range is working out just fine and dandy, actually WAAAY beyond my expectations!

Boy capel ChanelCHANEL

Named after one of Coco Chanel’s early lovers, Arthur “Boy” Capel, was a famous sportsman and self-made millionaire who was tragically killed in an auto accident on his way to a rendezvous with Ms. Chanel at Christmas in 1919. Their tempestuous affair lasted for twelve years.

Boy opens with a blast of sweet lavender and heliotrope, but the sweetness quickly dissipates as the herbal qualities of the fougere step forward surrounded by musk, and what I think of as the classic Chanel (Chanelade?) notes found throughout the perfume range.

Solidly unisex, with a feeling of a vintage Chanel, but given a contemporary twist from grapefruit and lemon giving this an almost cologne-like vibe.

Yes there might be better scents in the Les Exclusifs range in my opinion, but I would (and have already) gladly add “Boy” to my full bottle collection! Sorry….gotta’ go re-apply!

Boy Capel CHANEL Polo WikipediaWikipedia

Further reading: BLeauG and The Whale & The Rose
CHANEL has €320/200ml
Recently CHANEL stopped all sample/decant stores from selling their products so you must go in store to try boy

Do you have a favorite from the Chanel Les Exclusifs range??

Misia by Olivier Polge for CHANEL 2015

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Post by Portia

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Hello Happy Huffers,

Scott and I were in town the other day and hit the CHANEL counter. Our mate Esther was in the house and with her was one of the CHANEL Australia trainers (Scott thinks it’s Emma but I am less sure) who was a wealth of information about CHANEL Beauty. It was a wonderful and enlightening hour we spent chatting and it was really fun. We even learned that you can buy a 900ml CHANEL No 5 parfum in a Baccarat bottle: OMG! but we were strong and resisted the temptation.

Misia by Olivier Polge for CHANEL 2015

Chanel Misia Chanel FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Powdery notes, violet, iris, orris root, Turkish rose, Grasse rose, Laos benzoin, tonka bean

We grabbed a sample of Misia and I’ve brought it home to re-run its beauty. The question is though, who or what is Misia (Pronounced Mischa and the Russian shortening of Maria)?

Misia Sert is the muse for this CHANEL creation. One of Coco’s friends: artistic, wealthy, influential and connected. Of course Gabriel “Coco” Chanel courted her. Missy was almost the perfect fit for the CHANEL dream. According to Wikipedia: It was recognized that “you had to be gifted before Misia wanted to know you.” …Sert was attracted to Chanel by “her genius, lethal wit, sarcasm and maniacal destructiveness, which intrigued and appalled everyone.” Both women, convent bred, maintained a friendship of shared interests, confidences and drug use.

Chanel Misia Chanel Misia Henri de Toulouse-Lautec WikiCommonsWikiCommons

 

It’s interesting that Scott is an anti iris perfumista, not so much anti but it tends to take on this OTT bread/yeast/doughy nature when it hits his skin. Misia doesn’t though and we were very surprised how gorgeously it smells of cosmetics on him. Violets, roses, iris, powder, slightly dusty and a little bit ripe human. Misia is gorgeous. Wearing it is to feel full of the joys of theatrical life.

Sweet, waxy, floral gouts of fragrance burst out of my top and intoxicate me. Sillage is excellent, people tend to stop and sniff the air after Misia walks by, and projection is moderate, unless you really go crazy Misia is demure.

I’m not sure why I don’t own a BIG bottle of it yet. Soon…..

Further reading: Now Smell This and Perfume Posse
CHANEL Les Exclusives are available at large Department Stores and CHANEL stand alone beauty stores
Unfortunately CHANEL has stopped all sample resellers from sharing their fragrances.

Which is your favourite CHANEL Exclusive? Are you excited for the new era in CHANEL fragrance?
What do YOU think of Misia?
Portia xx

Misia by Olivier Polge for CHANEL 2015

Hello Happy Huffers,

Imagine. Your Dad has been in charge of CHANEL perfumes and his first two creations for the house were Anteaus (1981) and Coco (1984), and that was just the beginning of the amazing saga of Jaques Polge reign. We all know that fragrance is a nepotistic arena so no one was surprised that Mr J Polge’s successor would be his prolific son Olivier Polge (89 fragrances and counting) who has produced some of my personal favourites including Midnight In Paris, Spicebomb, DIOR Homme, Cuir Beluga, Liberte and The Beat Man: These are just the ones I have FB of in my collection.

Then you get offered the BIG job, in house perfumer for CHANEL! What will your first fragrance be? How can you carry on the CHANEL ideal and your father’s legacy while still putting your own stamp on the product? While I don’t envy Olivier Polge the shoes he has to fill I am agog to wear the produce of his labours……….

Misia by Olivier Polge for CHANEL 2015

Chanel Misia Chanel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Powdery notes, violet, iris, orris root, Turkish rose, Grasse rose, Laos benzoin, tonka bean

Misia, I wonder who decided that Misia Sert would be the muse for this CHANEL creation? A modern woman of wealth. taste and an arts-centric philanthropist, ahead of her time yet fully a part of that time. A mover and a shaker, a catalyst, incredibly modern and yet a long time ago. It’s a perfect choice because almost anything fragrant you do can point to a facet of Misia, as long as it is brought to life impeccably.

Chanel Misia Chanel Misia Henri de Toulouse-Lautec WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

So many things Misia opens like. It’s a magical roll-a-dex of plush fragrant memories from that very first spritz, all of them expensive and lavish. Coco Chanel once said, “The best things in life are free but the second best are very, very expensive.” Many other bloggers have dwelt on its similarities so I’ll leave it there. I will say that a part of the mix that I’d always pegged as saffron is here, and I think it may be the violet/iris combo: balmy and cool yet slightly plastic. It smells like the feel of one of those old black bakelite CHANEL No 5 refillable canisters or the black case of a lipstick with the interlocking Cs at the tip and also some of the lipstick inside. More than any other CHANEL fragrance Misia smells like the essence of CHANEL, the dream and ideal we are being sold.

Chanel Misia Chanel large_classic_flap CHANELPhoto Stolen CHANEL

As we move into the heart of Misia the roses bloom, again vaguely reminiscent of other famous and beautiful fragrances but smoother, prettier, more tasteful and woven through with the violet/iris and very softly hinting of elegant leather handbags and folios. There is too a reminder of makeup and fragrances within, tidy but well loved. Sheer, a cloud of good fortune to surround you, the smell that money only wishes it could have but also a stark unclutteredness* like contemporary minimalism. Everything so perfectly placed and balanced, a harmonious whole.

Chanel Misia Chanel chanel-pret-a-porter-2014-15 CHANEL NewsPhoto Stolen CHANEL News

The end, a now whisper of what an old fashioned fragrance could have been in a dream. Bravo Olivier Polge, it feels to me as if you’ve hit the nail on the head.

Further reading: Now Smell This and Perfume Posse
CHANEL Les exclusives are available at large Department Stores and CHANEL stand alone beauty
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/ml

Which is your favourite CHANEL Exclusive? Are you excited for the new era in CHANEL fragrance?
What do YOU think of Misia?
Portia xx

*Unclutteredness – clunky word, made it up, you know what I mean. Ironically the using of this word is an antonym of what I think it stand for.

Liberté by Domitille Bertier + Olivier Polge for Cacharel 2007

Hello Frag Hags and Friends,

I have written of this fragrance before, it is one of my go-to frags and I have no idea why it is so addictive to me. What I can say is that it’s a hugely under-rated gem, it’s cheap as chips at the discounters and when I wear it I am instantly transported to a happy place, even from dark despair. When I am already feeling good it’s a mood matcher, bright, sparkling and super silly.

Liberté by Domitille Bertier + Olivier Polge for Cacharel 2007

Liberte by Cacharel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Amalfi lemon, bergamot, mandarin orange, bitter orange, orange, freesia
Heart: Marmalade, white honey, heliotrope, gardenia, frangipani, white flowers, sugar
Base: Patchouli, vetiver, spices, vanilla

So here we have a fruit-chouli, one of my least liked of the fragrance models. It’s fizzy, spicy, sweetness in most other versions of this frag type leave me cold or send me straight to the bathroom to bathe. Very similar to one of the Miss Dior incarnations, that I don’t like particularly, there is something in the mix that makes me happy. The first time I wore it I felt as if it had burned its way into my olfactory area with a cauterising pole. Since then the ride has been less fraught but I will always remember that first scary/fabulous ride.

Here’s how my skin reacts with Liberté. Opening up I get the sweetest, sparkliest whoosh of hot citrus, like someone has thrown and enormous amount of sugar and oranges on a Bar B Q, I think the Bar B Q effect is a dry, woody and raspy patchouli. This fun and crazy zing lasts only about 2 minutes but it’s so fabulous. Once that burns off we still have loads of sugar, spice and citrus but it feels more jellied, more like sugar coated soft jubes. The ones that you put three in your mouth at once and the flavour engulfs your whole body. It’s a sticky, fun fair flavour that could be fairy floss if it was just a trifle sweeter, I think still the patchouli keeps Liberté’s feet on the ground.

 Liberte Cacharel  Sugared_jubes WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

Can I say that there is nothing natural feeling about Cacharel’s Liberté, everything feels so completely synthesized and over processed, like a citrus version of single wrap sliced cheese where the wrapper is probably healthier to eat than its contents. Yes, I KNOW, but I love it. It stays fairly linear for a couple of hours, getting softer and softer, adds in some vanilla and ends its life sweetly as it has been all through the 3 hours fragrant and 2-3 hours close to your skin.

Further reading: The Scented Salamander and Australian Perfume Junkies
FragranceNet has $33/50ml before coupon

Here’s the thing. I know this is no masterpiece of fragrance. Liberté has been discontinued in Australia and is selling for peanuts on the discount stores that still have it. Frankly, I don’t care what the world thinks because when I wear Liberté I am instantly and unreservedly happy. It brings a smile to my face even thinking about spritzing it. So it’s not art, so what? Art is rarely this profoundly joyful and I’ll take smiling and bubbling with fun. In fact, I make that choice regularly when I spritz Liberté.

Portia xx

Liberté Cacharel – Gisele Bündchen

Eau Parfumée Au Thé Rouge by Olivier Polge for Bvlgari 2006

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Post by TinaG

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Hi APJ,

So many people have been making the effort to travel during this holiday period. For those of us in Australia with overseas relatives and friends, it can mean extended flight and transit times. In what is essentially an enclosed public space (ie: open to anyone with a valid passport and money) consideration of others, whilst trying to make yourself comfortable enough to endure what can be a challenging trip, is an interesting balance. For those of us who have a regular wrist-to-nose sniffing habit, should we really be going fragrance free? What, if any, fragrances could actually be suitable for these close-quarter random encounters?

I had this question partially answered by one of my brothers, as he was was upgraded to Emirates Business Class on his return trip to Australia in December.

Eau Parfumée Au Thé Rouge by Olivier Polge for Bvlgari 2006

Eau Parfumee au The Rouge Bvlgari FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Orange, pink pepper, bergamot
Heart: Tea, fig
Base: Musk, walnut, resin

Emirates have chosen Eau Parfumée Au Thé Rouge by Bvlgari for their Business Class amenities pack. A 5ml eau de cologne, 40ml body lotion and 40ml after shave emulsion are beautifully presented in a pretty little red branded box. The “Au Thé” series from Bvlgari have been formulated to incorporate notes of various tea varieties, specifically green, white and red tea. Au Thé Vert was launched in 1992, Au Thé Blanc followed in 2003 with Au Thé Rouge released in 2006.

Eau Parfumee au The Rouge Bulgari Tina

Fragrantica advises that Au Thé Rouge is created using two red tea extracts, a Roiboos from South Africa, and a Yunnan which is of Chinese origin. The first splash of the cologne brought on a whoosh of fresh alcohol which disappeared after 20 seconds. I could imagine how invigorating that would be in a stale aircraft cabin, it certainly worked wonders on a steamy summer afternoon. This was followed by what I interpreted as tea – I’m afraid my nose is just not that sensitive to be able to distinguish subtleties of tea types in fragrance, but practice makes perfect. I wafted my wrist under my brother’s nose and he immediately likened the scent to Thé Blanc (White Tea) by L’Occitane. 20minutes later, pepper elbows its way in to the fray along with orange and bergamot that creates a warm, uplifting vibe. Tea, pepper and citrus are an invigorating combination which I really enjoy. After two hours there are wood and resin notes which bring a comforting sophistication to the blend. I can’t seem to find the walnut or musk in the drydown but that is probably just me.

Eau Parfumee au The Rouge Bvlgari Sydney Evening AdventureJay2Photo Stolen AdventureJay

The silage of Au Thé Rouge is very much on an up close and personal basis. I’ve worn this scent now in multiple social situations and not had one person comment on it, even after extremely generous re-applications. Longevity is good albeit subtle. It would be an appropriate choice for travel or the office, but it has also been a lovely experience to wear in an evening winding down as the day cools and settles into dusk.

Further reading: Now Smell This and Bois de Jasmin
Fragrance Shop has $27/50ml before coupon
My Perfume Samples starts at $2/ml

I’m interested to hear of any other scent-related travel experiences, good or bad! What has been your travel scent of choice?

xx Tina