FRAGs and FRAGments From The Last Fortnight

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Val the Cookie Queen

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Felicitations APJ

It´s been bloody freezing here. Between like 1°c and 4°c. Snow flurries, and peach and cherry blossoms hanging on for dear life. It has at least given me the chance to get back to a proper gym routine. This week I will start spinning classes again and I am terrified. Been working out to The Doors, The Lumineers and the Easy Rider soundtrack.

FRAGs Worn

Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Therese. Sunny, tangy, sweet, dry and earthy. It´s a fascinating scent and makes me feel very grownup. Graceful and sophisticated.
Hermès Galop d’Hermès. Sunrise to sunset. A sparkly golden astringent opening, quince and saffron, a bright rose, and a long slow dry down to a dusky copper gold leather base.

Vero Profumo Naja. A green and floral tobacco. A blonde tobacco perfume, highlighted with neroli and bergamot, honeyed linden, and flecked with osmanthus.
Ormonde Jayne Tolu. Sumptuous but not overpowering. Subtly opulent. A vibrant herbal opening, contrasting beautifully with the rich amber heart. Resinous, warm and comforting.

FRAGments

B.blondeswunder stole my Portrait of a Lady for the Easter weekend away with the family of her boyfriend. (Note that they live in the boonies of Austria.) She applied four spritzes. Her boyfriend asked if she was wearing something new. To which she replied “Yep. Do you like it?” He replied “It might take me some time to get used to it.” Hahahahahahahahaha. Death by PoaL. I also came across a picture of MY Galop and MY cat on HER Instagram Story. I may have to lock my perfume wardrobe.

B.londesuwnder also practiced her drag make up technique on NoFear Chris, her long suffering Hero Dad.

BJTG (my seldom featured son) had a tattoo, not yet healed.

Great Grandmother turned 101.

A dear friend had a mild stroke. Total shit. Life is not always like it seems in the blogs.

Keep on truckin’
Bussis
CQ

Ormonde Jayne in Florence: An Aperol spritz with Linda Pilington

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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Hi Fragrant Friends!

I’m in Italy for Pitti Fragranze 2016 and today you can share with me:

An Aperol spritz in Florence with Linda Pilkington
*And a prosecco ‘roadie’ if I’m honest…

A Florence virgin, I arrived from Australia just 30 minutes before the first of many exciting interviews I had prearranged before departing. By the time the curtains opened for Pitti Fragrance I already had met with three fascinating folk from the world of fragrance. Nothing like hitting the ground running…and run I did!!

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Linda Pilkington of British brand, Ormonde Jayne and I met in the garden in her quaint hotel, Lungarno Vespucci 50 on the bank of the Arno River nearest to Ponte Amerigo Vespucci, Firenze.

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Ormond Jayne at Pitti in Florence

An Aperol spritz with Linda Pilington

With a fascination for scent and an entrepreneurial mindset from a young age, it is not surprising Ormonde Jayne has evolved into a successful, luxury cult brand.

How the brand evolved….
Initially named by her husband after the street she was living on in London, Ormonde Terrace, combined with her middle name, the brand began a rapid evolution. Winning Top Draw for best designs for handmade candles, room sprays and bath oils meant Ormonde Jayne was noticed and picked up by department stores Harrods and Liberty soon after launching.

Soon after, Linda began work on a stand-alone boutique on London’s Old Bond Street with the help of Chanel’s merchandising team. Linda had previously created for Chanel’s fine jewelry an in-house scented candle, that she still supplies.

Before doors opened on day 1, the editor for the Evening Standard had already knocked on the door and by day 2 there was a buzz – a queue forming before second day of trade. This was November 2001.

Linda bashfully describes her successes as ‘happenstance,’ however it’s clear she has put in plenty of hard work and loads of travel too!

Linda’s favorite fragrances…
Linda and her sister were “the best smelling teenagers of their small village near Manchester, England.” Her sister owned a bottle of Dior’s Eau Sauvage and Linda had Dior’s Diorella. The pair used to layer the duo and the town folk used to all say “those girls smell amazing!”

Her all time favorite, for its uniqueness is Feminite du Bois Shiseido / Serge Lutens. She has also worn Givenchy’s Pour Femme (Eau de Givenchy??), Van Cleef & Arpel’s First and Chanel’s Cristalle – In fact Linda told me Ormonde Jayne’s “Tiare is a little nod to Chanel’s Cristalle”

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Linda’s creative process…
Linda’s innovation has been on finding unusual ingredients, not widely used at the time, such as hemlock, oud and champacca – and daring to use them first. “Champacca (2002) came out almost 10 years before Tom Fords in 2009” she explains

Recent news…
Currently the company is repackaging to linen covered boxes. Each country can choose a pantone color, which will then be unique to them. For example purple is already exclusive to Russia. A nice touch.

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My personal favorite is Ormonde woman – full of mesmerizing hemlock. What’s yours?

I will be meeting Linda in her London boutique and Studio in a few weeks, so please let me know if you’ve any questions you’d like me to ask on your behalf!

Cheers!
Ainslie X

Sydney Winter: Summer Reminders

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Post by Portia

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Hello Fume Family,

I know that if you don’t live in australia you could be forgiven thinking that we never have a cold, wet or grey day. Well that’s simply not true. We know that our weather is very mild and are mostly able to get around in jeans and a jumper if it’s winter. Sydney though is a city of many moods and recently a few of my mates published beautiful non-sunny Australian photos on their social media. I thought you might like to have a look too.

Winter Berangaroo from Ferry Aug 2016 Kath CoulterWinter Barangaroo from Ferry by Kath Coulter

Rain Off Bondi Stafford HamiltonWinter Rain Off Bondi Beach by another great, longtime mate: Stafford Hamilton

Winter Sunset Melita White Perfume Polytechnic Aug 2016Winter Sunset in Clunes by Melita white from Perfume Polytechnic

For those of us in Sydney, or indeed anywhere in the Southern Hemisphere, you’ll be past mid-winter by now and probably desperate for a reminder of what it feels like to be warm. Here are a couple of super summer reminders…..

Sydney Winter: Summer Reminders

Fleur No 1 1000 Flowers FragranticaFragrantica

Fleur No 1 by 1000 Flowers

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Green notes, galbanum, narcissus, hyacinth, iris, magnolia, violet

Galbanum and the cool wash of florists fridge air meet in this sheer, clean, crisp fragrance that is all about how to beat the heat. It seems counter intuitive to wear something so Arctic-ly bracing but it has so many summer memories for me that it works to remedy my ennui.

Granville DIOR FragranticaFragrantica

Granville by DIOR

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin, lemon, thyme, rosemary
Heart: Pine needles, dyer’s gorse
Base: Black pepper, sandalwood, woody notes

Granville is one of the classiest colognes I know. When it was released I bought 2 x 10ml and went through the first in no time but completely forgot I had a second. Now its sweet herbal/citrus opening with cool, dry, cracked black pepper and a very soft whisper of breath or fur, I’m never quite sure which, is still with me. Wearing it tonight has me smiling in remembrance of sunlit warm days.

Ormonde Woman Ormonde Jayne FragranticaFragrantica

Ormond Woman by Ormond Jayne 2002

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cardamom, coriander, grass oil
Heart: Black hemlock, violet, jasmine absolute
Base: Vetiver, cedar wood, amber, sandalwood

Strangely I find the herbs at the top of Ormond Woman warm and fleshy, I wonder if its the jasmine? There is something delightfully human under all the clean green and synth woodsiness. An oily warmth that makes the whole fragrance really comfortable and while it harks back to summer it also has the feeling of cuddling together under the bedcovers and keeping the cold at bay on a winters Sunday morning.

Tropic of Capricorn Olympic Orchids FragranticaFragrantica

Tropic of Capricorn by Olympic Orchids

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Mango fruit tincture, jasmine, frangipani, tuberose, magnolia, osmanthus, maile vine (a common component of floral leis), Bourbon vanilla, Africa stone (hyrax), ambergris, benzoin, New Caledonian sandalwood

I love the fetid, sensual, over ripe swamp that is Tropic of Capricorn. While everything else only list has been cool and green here we have fire and danger, excitement and lush tropical nightmares. This is what the animals of summer smell like, how pan might smell in his erotic goatiness. Tropic of Capricorn is the tribal community gathering, musical beat, the fire and the sacred ceremonies of indigenous people. Hot, heating and full of magical promise.

Winter Sydney from Greenwich Tim KellySydney from the North Shore at Greenwich taken by my friend-since-Kindergarten, Tim Kelly.

What do you suggest as a memory of summer or if you’re in the northern hemisphere what is helping you beat the heat?
Portia xx

Vanille d’Iris by Geza Schoen for Ormonde Jayne 2015

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Post by Tara

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Hey APJ!

I’ve come across from A Bottled Rose today to hang out at my mate Portia’s place and talk about a perfume I came to with great expectations…

Vanille d’Iris by Ormonde Jayne 2015

Vanille d’Iris by Geza Schoen

Vanille d'Iris Ormonde Jayne FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Coriander seed, Sicilian bergamot, carrot seed, schinus molle (pink pepper)
Heart: Orris absolute, jasmine absolute, magnolia bud oil, osmanthus
Base: Vanilla extract, Tahitian vanilla bud, cedar wood, vetiver, amber, musk

From the moment I heard about its release last year, I couldn’t wait to try Vanille d’Iris. Ormonde Jayne’s fragrances are well done and wearable, while still having something interesting to say. I love iris and was interested to find out how it would be combined with vanilla.

Luckily I didn’t have to pay to get hold of some. My great pal Val the Cookie Queen sent me an unwanted sample, being far from enamoured with it herself. I had only read positive reviews therefore I was now beyond intrigued.

There’s nothing to dislike about the immediate opening combo of pink pepper and bergamot. Once it settles down, I become more puzzled than anything else. I get a watery thin vanilla and some papery iris before the overall impression quickly turns into one of a Stargazer lily. How strange.

Vanille d'Iris Ormonde Jayne Audrey Stargazer Lily FlickrFlickr

I don’t find it a scrubber but I don’t find it enjoyable either. Mind you, I’m not normally a lily fan and I don’t like the indoles thrown out by Stargazers. I thought maybe I was imagining things: How could an OJ be anything other than squeaky clean?

A little while later, I felt validated when I saw Portia’s typically perceptive review on Perfume Posse mentioned a “poopy undercurrent”. Ha! Not just me then.

I must say Vanille d’Iris is most definitely NOT a skanky scent but if you do register that facet and it’s not to your taste, it’s hard to disregard.

The vanilla is not the cupcake, sugary variety but it’s also missing the comfort factor. The iris isn’t powdery or doughy but rather carrot-y. Looking at the note list, I wonder if it’s actually the carrot seed that’s throwing it for me because I’m normally a fan of iris accords.

l was disappointed because I really like the Ormonde Jayne line as a whole and had high hopes for this one. I own and love both Ormonde Woman and Champaca but for some reason Vanille d’Iris sadly just hits an off-note (literally) with me.

Vanille d'Iris Ormonde Jayne Poo4SALE GeographGeograph

It should be pointed out that other reviewers love it so don’t be put off if you’re yet to try it. Portia found the subtle indolic backnote to be earthy in a good, if unexpected way and sums up the perfume as “classic and classy”.

Further reading: Perfume Posse and I Scent You A Day
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/.5ml

If you’ve tried Vanille d’Iris I’d love to hear about your own experience in the comments.

Tara xxx

(Ed: Go read A Bottled Rose)

Fragrances for what ails you: The Hangover Part 2

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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Fragrances for what ails you: The Hangover Part 2

Today’s focus is HANGOVERS Part 2.

*Please note: we at APJ do not recommend drinking irresponsibly.

Continuing our journey through the hung-over eye, this week we observe cases and their miraculous fragrant cures!

Ormonde Woman Ormonde Jayne FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

“Take me away from this nasty place” hangover. You cannot fathom sorting “life” out today. “Adulting” is near impossible. You look at your partner/ children without recognition. Irritation, loss of patience and violent visions are rife. You must escape!! Ormonde Woman by Ormonde Jayne is the answer. Creamy, comforting and magical, you can easily fly far far away on your broomstick with it’s delicious high-dose of hallucinogenic black hemlock. You will cackle with delight as your zoom away from your self-created disaster zone.

“I don’t feel pretty” hangover. You look in the mirror; your skin is pale and has broken out. You feel ugly. You’ve been drinking too frequently. You’ve lost your pretty. We could fake pretty with numerous light floral options, however I’ve found a way to coheres the real pretty back from the darkest depths. Le Labo’s Sandal 33 resets my system like a breath of fresh cool country air. Moist woods evolve into a gorgeous, sexy mess. The dense woods are interspersed with pretty violet notes, peaking out shyly from the forest floor….”here pretty, pretty” you call.

Vaara Penhaligon's FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Hangover of doom: you wake up mentally feeling like a lead balloon. Your head is stuck in an unrelenting dark cloud. The only remedy is “happy.” For me this is usually orange blossom, but I can also opt for Penhaligon’s Vaara, as long as I am not feeling too woozy. It is robust happiness in a bottle. Juicy and uplifting, rose, quince, orange, freesia and magnolia work magic on dehydration. Coriander and saffron create the warmth and depth of a satisfying hug. Cedar and sandalwood earths you so as not to become too giddy.

Hangover on an important day You got carried away just one night too early. You have to face a job interview/family reunion/child’s christening/long drive. You are not a bad person; you were just a very fun person last night. A simple, yet head turning work of magic is Eccentric Molecule Molecule 01 smelling like the inside of a cedar wood chest you long to hide in if you were still small enough. To others you smell amazing, attractive and unique all of a sudden. You ooze cool to the point they ask, “you smell great, what is that?” No one will suspect a thing, the ultimate cover-up for your irresponsible sins.

Sunshine & Pancakes 4160 Tuesdays FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

The Hangover you have no time for: You wake up and need to be out of the house in 30 minutes “what happened last night? My head hurts” “why do I do this to myself?” It’s time to dart around, get ready and take a teaspoon-of-cement. Suck it up buttercup! – YOU did this and now you’ll be paying for it. Coffee and carb-laden food is a must along with a squirt of 4160 Tuesdays Sunshine and Pancakes. Comfortingly zesty it instantly uplifts. Creamy buttered sandalwood goodness melts in to play becoming a breakfast on the run. Rosewood helps with acceptance and makes for a beautiful, balanced start to the day!

How do you cope with a hangover?
Ainslie Walker xx

New perfumes for a new life

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Post by Madeleine

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Hello fragrance friends! For those of you that read my last post, you’ll know I’ve been busy with my relocation to Melbourne.
The good news is that we’re here now and besides being really cold and missing my fragrance collection that’s still in transit, there are plenty of things to look forward to. One of these is that perfume shopping is way better in Melbourne than Sydney (I’ll be sure to post some of my shopping adventures soon!). The second is that I’m really excited about introducing some new perfumes into my life.

I find that relocating gives a new outlook: not only do you feel different, but it is often a great time to try new things, like a different fashion style, a new lipstick and of course, new or different perfumes. When I moved to London, my tastes in perfume changed quite a bit and gems like Chanel No 19 EDP, Lipstick Rose, Musc Ravageur and Habanita became new loves. So, what beauties will Melbourne bring perfume-wise? Here’s five scents that I’m looking forward to adding to my permanent rotation:

New perfumes for a new life

Dans Tes Bras by Maurice Roucel for Frederic Malle 2008

Dans Tes Bras Frederic Malle FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Heliotrope, jasmine, woodsy notes, patchouli, pine tree, cashmeran, sandalwood, musk, incense, violet

This beautiful but quirky violet scent has always intrigued me, but I have never really found the perfect time or place to wear it. It’s woody sombreness never quite fit with Sydney’s warmer clime, but it strikes me as the perfect accompaniment to Melbourne’s chill. A good choice for the weekends when I’m swathed in a big black jumper, jeans and boots and mulling over life, sipping an espresso.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and The Non Blonde
Mecca Cosmetica starts at $142/30ml
Surrender to Chance has $7/.5ml

Louanges Profanes by Pierre Guillaume for Parfumerie Generale 2008

PG19 Louanges Profanes Parfumerie Generale FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Lily, benzoin, hawthorn, incense, neroli, woody notes

I’m including this one because I’m dying to wear it after experiencing a massive olfactory memory the other week. While packing boxes, I smelt it there and then, even though I last time I sniffed it was more than three years ago and only from a small sample vial. Does anyone else ever experience this? I’m thinking this opulent oriental with its smoky lily accord and smattering of hawthorn will be lovely in the cold weather when I want to feel glam: it’s all plush red velvet, cashmere and patent heels.

Further reading: The Olfactorialist
Luckyscent has $125/50ml
Surrender to Chance has $5/ml

Love by Calice Becker for By Kilian 2007

Love by Kilian By Kilian FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Neroli, bergamot, pink pepper, coriander
Heart: Iris, jasmine, rose, honeysuckle, orange blossom
Base: Musk, vanilla, civet, caramel, sugar, labdanum

I’m by no means a gourmand lover but I’m finding that the cold, dry air has me hankering after something sweet. Love is a good fit for me, given the neroli and jasmine give me the much-needed white floral hit within the sweetness of caramelised sugar and vanilla. This is cotton candy and marshmallows, pink and pretty. A somewhat frivolous and light-hearted scent when the grey skies will make me want to take my girly-ness to the max.

Luckyscent has $145/4 x .25oz
Surrender to Chance has $4/.5ml

Moor Street Gardenia Eau De Parfum by Klein’s Perfumery 2014

Moor Street Gardenia Eau De Parfum
Photo Stolen Klein’s Perfumery

Anyone who’s read my posts will know of my love of gardenia. Like many, I’d given up on finding a really good one given Tom Ford’s Velvet Gardenia is discontinued. Klein’s Perfumery Moor Street Gardenia is part of the boutique’s new line up that I discovered on a hasty reconnaissance visit here a few weeks ago. It’s as perfect a gardenia as I’ve ever encountered. A heady, slightly green composition that evokes the creamy petals in full bloom. A good choice for when I’m longing for the Sydney mugginess and just that little bit homesick.

Klein’s Perfumery has $110/50ml

Ta’if by Geza Schoen and Linda Pilkington for Ormonde Jayne 2004

Ta'if Ormonde Jayne FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these notes:
Top: Saffron, date, pink pepper
Heart: Orange blossom, white peach, rose, freesia, lily of the valley, jasmine
Base: Amber, tonka, musk, vanilla absolute

It’s now clear to me that I’m craving orange blossom, since Ta’if is the third scent that I’ve mentioned, along with Love and Louanges Profanes that includes a hefty dose of the note. However, Ta’if is first and foremost an opulent rose scent. I’m pretty picky with roses, preferring them dark, and Ta’if satisfies this want with a spicy opening of saffron and pink pepper. The rose is full and lush, tempered by a breath of jasmine, lily of the valley and freesia before the voluptuous orange blossom comes to life in the dry down. This is the scent to wear when I want to feel powerful and confident whilst job and flat hunting: regal, rich and very sophisticated.

Further reading:  Now Smell This and EauMG
Peony Melbourne has $195/50ml
Surrender to Chance has $4/.5ml

So, do you like any of my picks?
What new perfumes have you discovered when moving to a new place or traveling?

With much love till new time!
M x

Ormonde Woman EdP by Linda Pilkington for Ormonde Jayne 2002

Hello Happy Huffers,

Not so long ago my mate Dionne sent me a fragrant care package of a few of her most cherished gems. Only one of those mini atomisers arrived empty and it was one that Dionne especially wanted me to try. Serendipitously on FFF there happened to be a split of the 4 travel sized 10ml Ormonde Woman EdPs going so I put my hand up for one of my own.

Ormonde Woman EdP by Ormonde Jayne 2002

OrmondeWoman FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cardamom, coriander, grass oil
Heart: Black hemlock, violet, jasmine absolute
Base: Vetiver, cedar wood, amber, sandalwood

Ormonde Jayne site says: Beginning and ending with the unique scent of Black Hemlock absolute – rarely used in such luscious quality and quantity – this utterly hypnotic, unconventional and mysterious woody essence is combined with jasmine and violet absolute to create a dusky, seductive perfume.

I love the green opening that seems to be warm. I know this makes little sense but that first few minutes rush is extraordinary. I don’t smell the notes as such but a sweet, warm, oily, green deliciousness reminiscent of freshly cut bell peppers is about as close as I can get to explaining what I smell. Floaty, ethereal and lively but dense at the same time, intrusive and rivetting.  When the initial rush changes Ormonde Woman remains green and sappy but the flowers come through and lift it beyond itself. If black hemlock is what makes this beauty shine then I wish more perfumers would use it.

Unfortunately my skin eats all traces of Ormonde Woman well before I’m ready to let go of it, and before the story finishes. I get no amber and very little wood and am fragrance free in around 2 hours. Other people find it a tenacious fragrance that lingers for ages. If I spray on fabric instead of skin I get 6+ hours and much more of a journey. The first 2 hours that I get is exquisite though, well worth trying and the Ormonde Jayne Sample Set is Ah May Zing!!

GirlGreen foundwallsPhoto Stolen Foundwalls

Further reading PerfumeShrine and CandyPerfumeBoy
OrmondeJayne’s site has 4 x 10ml Travel Sprays £64
PoshPeasant has 1ml/$6

I hope the silly season is not getting you down. It can be totally overwhelming at times. Don’t worry we’ll be over the drama and torment soon. Maybe try and look beyond the rubbish attached to Christmas and remember some really great messages that should come through like treat everyone well, take care of yourself and those around you and forgive. I’ve been trying to keep these in mind.

Happy Holidays to you all,

Portia xx

Linda Pilkington talks Ormonde Woman

Ormonde Jayne – Ormonde Luxury Perfume from Ormonde Jayne on Vimeo.