Post by Portia


Hey there APJ,

Thanks again to Libertine Parfumerie and Elysee Collective who are always keeping APJ awash in the latest and greatest fragrance.
Portia xx


Equinox Bloom Penhaligon`s FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Chantilly, hydrangea, neroli, violet leaves
Heart: Frangipani, orange blossom absolute, jasmine sambac
Base: Brown Sugar, Siamese benzoin, ambroxan

Libertine Parfumerie has $279/100m


This week we will have 2 winners who will receive:
1 x Equinox Bloom by Penhaligon’s Manufacturers Sample
P&H Anywhere in the world


Entries Closed Wednesday 1st June 2016 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

Winners Are Bodie Strain Sydney Opera House Fireworks Flickr



The winners will have till Wednesday 8th June 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Equinox Bloom by Olivier Cresp for Penhaligon`s 2016


Post by Portia 


Hiya Fragrant Fumies,

You know those days that are so jam packed you couldn’t fit one more thing in without exploding? Well I had one of those recently. It was all planned a ready to go and then an invitation came to the Breakfast launch of Penhaligon’s latest release Equinox Bloom. Sadly it was not possible to get there but the crew at Libertine Parfumerie and Elysee Collective (who are the very boutique Public Relations agency in charge of a range of luxurious offerings in Australia) sent me a pack with samples so I could check out the latest fragrant stuff. Inside were a couple of carded manufacturers samples that I can give to you guys. WOO HOO! Giveaway closes TOMORROW NIGHT!

Equinox Bloom Penhaligons Launch Party 2

Equinox Bloom by Penhaligon`s 2016

Equinox Bloom by Olivier Cresp

Equinox Bloom Penhaligon`s FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Chantilly, hydrangea, neroli, violet leaves
Heart: Frangipani, orange blossom absolute, jasmine sambac
Base: Brown Sugar, Siamese benzoin, ambroxan

Equinox Bloom does open with a creamy feel, then green and sappy but for some reason it’s a dry green, a warm green. The white flowers are soft and subtle, clean and silky. There’s no humanity here but a beautiful vegetatively fleshy fragrance that is quite distinctive, not ringing any scent memories for me, pure and pretty. A lush and lovely spring scent that will take you all the way to midsummer.

Later Equinox Bloom warms through and though it never gets candy sweet it does get less veg and more bakery. Gourmand but not as you know it.

Equinox Bloom Penhaligons Launch Party 1

I’m finding the sillage moderate and projection good, not big but so unusual that it constantly captures my attention with its swings between flora and cake. Throughout the life of Equinox Bloom it never really settles on either and even in the deepest dry down still has a wisp of fresh cut foliage. A smooth, lovely and very wearable fragrance that I think will be a winner with both sexes.

This is what I wrote in a Facebook post: Wearing Equinox Bloom by Penhaligon’s? It’s charming but weird. Managing to be sappy cut hydrangea stalks, a white flower bouquet and cookies simultaneously. A whiff of a florists fridge and carbo comfort. It all seems so airy and effortless.

Further reading: I Scent You A Day and Colognoisseur
Libertine Parfumerie has $279/100m

giveaway hemodernhomePhoto Stolen hemodernhome

Equinox Bloom GIVEAWAY


This week we will have 2 winners who will receive:
1 x Equinox Bloom by Penhaligon’s Manufacturers Sample
P&H Anywhere in the world


Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ


Tell us a perfume that makes you think of spring.


Entries Close TOMORROW Wednesday 1st June 2016 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Wednesday 8th June 2016 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Amaranthine by Bertrand Duchaufour for Penhaligon’s 2009


Post by Portia


Hi there Crew,

Way back in 2009/10 when Amaranthine was first released it caused uproar. Nobody could quite believe that very British house Penhaligon’s would bring out such a naughty little firecracker of a frag. I have a bottle from Birgit at OT but while going through my decants I refound Amaranthine and decided to give myself a big fat spritz.

Amaranthine by Penhaligon’s 2009

Amaranthine by Bertrand Duchaufour

Amaranthine Penhaligon`s FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Banana leaf, Green tea, Cardamom absolute, Coriander seed, White freesia
Heart: Rose, Carnation, Clove bud oil, Orange blossom, Ylang-ylang-oil, Egyptian jasmine absolute
Base: Musk, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Evaporated milk, Tonka bean absolute

Yes, it opens green and fresh yet curiously tropical and already you can tell there will be white flowers in abundance. Amaranthine is large and forthright, filled chock full of creamy flowers, their stems and a little of their vase water that has perhaps been left a day too long before changing.

As we leave the opening extravaganza behind Amaranthine becomes totally tropical. A warm rich and radiant white/yellow floral with a healthy green punch and fruity byplay. Creamy seems to fall short of how smooth and glutinous Amaranthine becomes, not sticky or lumpy but perfectly, silkily, gloriously thick and luscious. With my nose up close I feel that it’s so thick and viscous that perhaps I will drown in its vegetal embrace. Once I put my arm back by my side it softens to a gently and warm vanilla and floral bouquet, Amaranthine become charming and harmless again. Beautiful, alluring and enchanting but in a safe way, then I bring my arm back to my nose and I’m lost. It’s a heavy scent, a brocade bouquet.

Amaranthine Penhaligon`s Patrick McNally White Ginger FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

March on Perfume Posse uses the word refulgent and when I looked it up it means shining brightly. It’s as accurate a word as I can find to explain how dazzling Amaranthine is. Strange that we read or hear so little about it nowadays because it was a game changing fragrance at the time and now I can only think of Amoureuse by Parfums DelRae being anywhere near as outrageous.

For some reason today my skin skips the sexy boudoir completely and goes directly to plush, sweet vanilla/sandalwood and a hefty dollop of clean skin musks. This lovely comfortable dry down can last for a full day & night and is basically indelible on fabric.

Amaranthine Penhaligon`s Jesus del Toro Garcia Bridal Boudoir FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Perfume Shrine
Libertine Parfumerie has $239/100ml with FREE Australian delivery
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/ml

How was Amaranthine for you? Is it something you’ve loved, hated, never tried?
Portia xx

Heatwave Fragrances for Summer 2015


Post by Greg Young


Hey APJ,

South-east Australia has been sweltering in a heat wave for days on end. Going outside has been like walking into a brickmaker’s kiln, and staying inside hasn’t been much fun either. Conservative businessmen such as myself are dispensing with their ties and looking fondly at the pub over the road from work, dreaming of a cold craft beer.

Choosing the right fragrance for temperatures like this can be tough. I feel the need for something that picks me up in the morning and sends me out feeling at least a little bit chipper. For me, that usually means something with a citrus hit. It also needs to defy the evaporative force of baking Melbourne heat, so classic EdCs are off the list. Here is how I dealt with the heat this week.

Heatwave Fragrances for Summer 2015

Orange Star Tauer Perfumes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Thursday: the wave begins
The CBD baked in 36 degree heat. Tauer’s Orange Star has a sharp citrus juice opening that is very refreshing on a hot morning. It’s not really my idea of a summer fragrance; the vanilla and tonka bean give it a sweetness that I think is more appropriate for cooler days. The fact that Orange Star lasted the distance in this heat is impressive; I could still smell its amber drydown 12 hours later at home, in the cooling blast of A/C.

Blenheim Bouquet Penhaligon`s FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Friday: the swelling wave
When the thermometer climbs to 39 and it’s accompanied by a northerly wind Melbourne becomes positively beastly. I chose Penhaligon’s Blenheim Bouquet for my Friday fragrance. This very traditional fragrance was designed for Winston Churchill’s father – Blenheim Palace is the Churchill family seat. It’s lemon and lime scent was just what I needed, bolstered by a refreshing pine. This was a perfect pick. While not exactly fighting on the beaches, it never surrendered.

Italian Citrus D.S. & Durga FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Saturday: the wave crests – and a special occasion.
It was 41C (106F) on Saturday. We planned to travel for a weekend away to celebrate our wedding anniversary. This meant we had to go out in blinding heat, sit in a car where the seats set fire to you when you climbed in, and moan to one another about how hot it was.

We went to dinner at a rural Italian restaurant of considerable note and I chose D.S. & Durga’s Italian Citrus, with its powerful, complex, almost bitter citrus note that really stays with you. It developed a sweeter musk as the night wore on, but the citrus remained until the end rather than giving way to the base notes. It lasted a good four hours.

Masque Terralba FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Sunday: the wave breaks
Only by comparison to the furnace of Saturday could the 39 degrees we reached on Sunday be considered cooler. We were in the car again travelling home. At the outset we could feel every one of those 39 degrees, cutting short our trip to get into the car and just leave.

I wore Masque Terralba. There is a cedary opening to this, but it’s cut by a little bit of lemon. It has an oceanic note that I can’t quite place, which reduces the woodsiness. Some herbal green notes emerge later as well.

Shortly after arriving home, the heat wave broke. Intermittent showers of rain brought relief from the fearsome dry, and the temperature tumbled ten degrees in just a few hours. The heat wave was over – until the next one.

Surrender To Chance is a great place to sample most of these.

How do you cope with heat?
Greg Young

Top 10 Christmas Shopping List 2015


Post by Portia


Hi Lovelies,

We are HURTLING towards Christmas with speeds previously unknown to mankind. How did this year disappear so fast? It seems like only yesterday I was having Christmas at home with Mathew, Jin & Kath, opening up my presents, eating, laughing and having a stunningly relaxing day. Jin, Kath & I were all living in an apartment in Redfern (on the edge of the Sydney CBD) and it was great. You know, I can’t believe I’ve been sporting the BEARD for a year!

Christmas 2014 #1

Many of you are not Christian, have horrible Christmas memories or are very lonely at Christmas. Depression is made even harder when the world expects you to be joyful and smiling. I too have spent Christmas with the black dog. One of the things that helps me through is organisation, make a plan for the day and stick to it. Leaving the house can seem like an insurmountable mountain, especially in the dead of winter, but if it’s safe to do so then getting bathed, dressed and outside for a short while can really help. Even if it’s just to a porch or balcony. Inside, spend an hour tidying up your kitchen and table and making it a really nice place to have a meal, polish the damn thing if you have to and if you have a placemat put it down, set up your cutlery and condiments. Even if all you have for lunch is a Cup-A-Soup please make it a SPECIAL Cup-A-Soup moment. Do you know someone else who is lonely or in need? Nothing puts the Christmas blues behind as much as helping someone else. Just do it for yourself, helping them will help you through, selfishness harnessed for the greater good is still wonderful.

Anyway, here are my Top 10 Christmas Gifts 2015, I know you have some great ideas to help people with their gift giving, please leave your comments below. Also good ideas for beating the Christmas Blues would be great too.

Top 10 Christmas Shopping List 2015


L’Occitane Shea Fabulous Oil: Seriously, L’Occitane Shea Fabulous Oil is FAN fricken TASTIC! It smells so beautiful, sinks into your skin in moments, leaves your skin feeling soft, supple and with a light sheen. I can’t imagine anyone male or female who would not be thrilled receiving a bottle of this beautiful baby at Christmas (or any other time). Whoever you give this to will be seriously impressed with your good taste and sense. Retailing AUD$45/100ml at L’Occitane Australia

A Quiet Morning Miller et Bertaux FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Miller et Bertaux – A Quiet Morning: On our first trip to Europe together while shopping with Birgit and Sandra Jin spritzed some Miller et Bertaux – A Quiet Morning. It was instant love. We were busy buying other things at the time but later in the evening I got a whiff of him and it still smelled killer. The top notes and heart are put together in such a way that they smell like nothing in my scent memory and are based around Saffron, Rice & Neroli but the deep Woody dry down is where it really shines. First In Fragrance has €98/100ml

Stars_Gift_Certificate SmartDrawPhoto Stolen SmartDraw

Surrender To Chance Gift Certificate: Don’t know what to get someone? Know they like fragrance and don’t want to double up or worse give them a scent nemesis note? Surrender To Chance Gift Certificate‘s are a great idea. Your friend will have the joy of receiving your card explaining their gift, you can send them a Gift Voucher via eMail, they will have enormous fun picking their order and once it arrives the fun of wearing a bunch of brand new fragrances. Excellent gift from $1 to $200. I usually give $25 or $50, depending on my financial status and our friendship.

Penhaligon's Blenheim Bouquet Bath Oil Parfum1Photo Stolen Parfum1

Penhaligon’s Blenheim Bouquet Bath Oil: I love baths, and here is a fabulous way to soften and lightly scent your skin while enjoying that most relaxing and mentally detoxifying pursuit. The Blenheim Bouquet range from Penhaligon’s is chock full of fabulous stuff, from Shaving Soaps and Shower Gels to EdT and Body Lotion and it all comes beautifully packaged. Aimed at the men but blissfully unisex. Parfum1 has $85/200ml Bath Oil.

Lolita Lempicka Lolita Lempicka FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Lolita Lempicka EdP: The original Lolita Lempicka fragrance. One of the loveliest, and much more wearable, Angel spin offs. Licorice, Sugar & Violets all drizzled with Vanilla Praline and smoothed over with Musks. I often gift this one. It suits all ages and everyone loves the fun bottle, even the men. It’s sweet but won’t rot your teeth, light enough to wear to most events but fragrant enough to be interesting. Perfumery Australia has AUD$40/50ml

The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up Book DepositoryPhoto Stolen Book Depository

The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up: The Japanese Art of Decluttering and Organizing by Marie Kondo: If any book could change your life then this is the one. Imagine being surrounded by ONLY the things that bring you joy. Perfect if you or someone you know needs to de-clutter. Marie Kondo is clever and a bit whacko but her book really does give an excellent guide to making your life cleaner, sparer and more able to let in the joy. I’ve not done the full clean but it will happen when I’m ready. Book Depository has the hardback for AUD$19.20 delivered.

DIA Body-Lotion Amouage LibertinePhoto Stolen Libertine

Amouage Body Lotion: You want to make someone feel like they are incredible beautiful and important to you? Want them to think lovely thoughts of you every time they get out of the shower and are moisturising themselves? Top quality and smells amazing, my favourite of the Amouage Body Lotions is DIA filled with glycerine, shea butter, aloe vera, almond oil and silicone. A softly fresh bouquet on a base of powdery woods, vanilla & incense. Sensual and elegant. Libertine has $119/300ml with FREE Australian Shipping

Magnolia Grandiflora - Michel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Magnolia Grandiflora – Michel: You are looking for something different, beautiful, easy to wear and vibrant to gift your partner. You are expecting to pay a bit of money but cant go too far over the top. Magnolia Grandiflora – Michel is an excellent choice. Citrus and fresh green up top through a softly white floral bouquet and into a dry patchouli and vetiver skin scent to finish. Unisex, magical and Australian. Peony Melbourne has AUD$185/100ml

Rance Iris royal Soap FragranceXPhoto Stolen FragranceX

Rancé 6 x 104 ml Iris Royal Soap Box: Rancé has been producing excellent soaps in Italy since 1795 and their production methods remains basically unchanged from their founding. That’s quite an amazing thing. The soaps are presented beautifully, six in a box and they smell incredible. The soap leaves your skin clean, moist and lightly fragrant. This is the good stuff. FragranceX has AUD$73.50

Chanel Misia Chanel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

CHANEL Misia: You want their friends to be as impressed as they are. Grab the 2015 release from CHANEL, Misia. It shows you are cool, clever and bang up to date. There’s nothing like the thrill of finding something by CHANEL under your tree or given any way a gift can be given. Make sure the sales person wraps the box and ties with CHANEL ribbon, roll it in the CHANEL bag and only then can you put your own Christmas paper on it. Give them the whole thrilling experience. It will be worth it. CHANEL Boutiques and large department stores have 75ml or 200ml bottles.

Did any of these tickle your fancy? What would you like to give or be given?
Portia xxx


Ellenisia by Steve de Mercado for Penhaligons 2005


Post by Madeleine


Hello perfume lovers!

It’s often said that happiness comes when reality beats expectations. This can happen as much in the perfume world as anywhere else, especially now when we’re faced with rave blog reviews or when there’s a new release by one of our favourite brands or perfumers.

Today I want to talk about a beautiful perfume that has fallen short for me, not because it is not good – quite the opposite – but because I have built up my expectations about it over several years, actually having it and wearing it doesn’t match those expectations. That scent is Ellensia by Penhaligon’s.

Ellenisia by Penhaligons 2005

Ellenisia by Steve de Mercado

Ellenisia Penhaligon`s FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica lists these following accords:
Top: Mandarin orange, violet leaf
Middle: Jasmine, gardenia, rose, tuberose
Base: Plum, vanilla

The weight of expectations for poor old Ellenisia was built up a long time ago. At the earliest stages of my perfume wanderings, when I was skulking round the perfume boards on Makeupalley, board members were raving about it as the most gorgeous white floral. As the perfume was unobtainable in Australia back then, it became even more coveted and desirable to me. My desire only grew when people said it was a better version of Chanel Gardenia.

Time went on and then Penhaligon’s made an appearance at our local department store but a bottle was way beyond my budget. I’d go in often and spritz some Ellenisia on a blotter to get my fix of the fume and delight in the sensual, heady but very playful gardenia and tuberose mix.

Ellenisia Penhaligon`s Toorop_Dame_in_wit WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

This happened for a while, until of course, other perfumed delights came my way and Ellenisia was temporarily forgotten.

Fast forward to last year. I had just moved to Melbourne and I am out of work. Again, a bottle of Penhaligon’s is too expensive and out of my reach. Again, I covet it more than anything.

A couple of months ago, I finally pull the trigger. After more than a decade, the object of my rapture is finally in my hot little hands and I can’t wait to wear it. I am carefully unwrapping the cellophane from the pink cardboard box and lifting the little glass cap that sits so prettily atop a pink ribbon, I press the atomiser and….nothing. For sure, Ellenisia was pretty, it was the same gorgeous mix of gardenia and tuberose, given depth by the mandarin and plum but not too sweet, thanks to the greenness of the violet leaf. It was nice, but it didn’t rock my world like it had in my head time and time again. Mr M says I smell pretty and I do, but I can’t help feeling something’s missing. I’ve ruined my own perfect scent, I have built it up too much in my mind, building it up and up and up that it can’t help but fall short. Hopefully, as I continue to wear it, my expectations will fade to the background and the beauty that is this gorgeous white floral will come to the fore, unencumbered by the prospects in my mind.

Ellenisia Penhaligon`s Statue PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Further reading: EauMG and Mimi Froufrou
Libertine Parfumerie has $239/100ml
Luckyscent has $4/0.7ml

Have you ruined a perfectly gorgeous scent through the weight of your expectations? Conversely, what perfumes have you set the bar really low for that have subsequently rocked your world?

With much love till next time.

M x

The Modern Fougere: Kurkdjian, Malle, Penhaligon’s


Post by Liam


Howdy Hum Salubrious Scentophiles.

Of the entire gamut of fragrances, I am most cautious of the Fougere.

Why? Do this for me- play a game of covert ops (if you are a man, this is easy. If you are a woman, pretend you are buying a gift for a boyfriend). Head on down to your local department store and ask the question: “I am looking for a safe fragrance at around the one-hundred dollar mark”. Tell them he doesn’t often wear scent, perhaps only for special occasions.

I am willing and happy to wager that if they do not offer you an aquatic to try, they will then offer you either a fragrance in the wood category or the Aromatic Fougere.

The Modern Fougere: Kurkdjian, Malle, Penhaligon’s

What’s wrong with the mass market Fougere? The structure of a Fougere is largely complex, richly layered with a harmonious topdown structure from a vibrant citrus top note, an aromatic hum in the middle, and a weighty wooded base at the bottom. When perfumes mess with these transitions, with cloying drydowns and/or linalool and ambroxan driven facets, piercing top notes, and imperceptible accords – the Fougere has been tarnished.

Jean-Paul Guerlain made a statement that I am inclined to adhere to. He believed that apart from Guerlain’s two Fougere scents – Jicky and Mouchoir de Monsieur, any other Fougere is for truck drivers. Given my current and (of course) personal perspective of the market, I am inclined to say the same.

However! The Fougere begins to shine a pulsating, welcoming, and soft glow when we begin to look at a few more ‘uppermarket’ scents. Here are my favourite Fougeres for a contemporary market.

Sartorial Penhaligon`s FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Sartorial by Penhaligon’s

A superstar in the fragrance community (and when you have the confidence, fragcom is the appropriate blend word to use), I personally really admire Sartorial for its classicism.

I get what I want from Sartorial: a lavender, amber, and sandalwood structure that alloys down a citrus impression at the opening. But Duchaufour takes it a step further. He places the scent in context. In a Saville Row tailor’s workroom. Beeswax, metallic notes, steam-iron notes, and a linen fabric accord intermingle with the classic structure giving depth, definition, and clarity. A wonderful scent.

Masculin Pluriel Maison Francis Kurkdjian FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Masculin Pluriel by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

This is the antidote to my woes. I am saddened by a lack of clarity in Fougere scents – with these instead presenting a musty static that I cannot bare. Much like Sartorial, the name suggests a throwback to what makes a masculine fragrance – a Fougere! Lavender is a must, along with red cedar, leather, and patchouli. A fragrance representing a quest for the ‘eternal masculine’, a ‘timeless scent’, this comes pretty close. It it predicable and forward, like a good gentleman.

GeraniumPourMonsieur FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Geranium Pour Monsieur – Frederic Malle

A minty wildcard, I am currently really liking this one. It is tenacious. It opens with a smooth abrasiveness from Chinese geranium – giving a floral potency lifted with nose tingling mint, anise, and ouzo notes. Combined with the spice of clove, cinnamon and then swept with crystalline musk – Geranium Pour Monsieur omits the toothpaste impression but retains its menthol-like freshness. It is precise; a well-tuned creation that plays on cool and hot. Creating a sophisticated, refreshing and tonic-like fragrance, Geranium Pour Monsieur is probably the best mint-driven scent on the market, and a superb quasi-fougere.

Be kind, and rethink your labelling of the (otherwise almighty) Fougere.
What’s a modern Fougere to you?


P.S I’m away for a while, Yr12 exams! See you soon!