Pichola by Bertrand Duchaufour for Neela Vermeire Creations 2015

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Portia

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Hi there APJ,

Sorry we are a bit late tonight but I completely forgot there was no post written for tonight on APJ. OOPSIE! So I thought I’d write about my fragrance tonight for work. Thursdays are really good nights for me and I’ve been in the same venue for 15+ years, the players have become friends. Many of them I’ve been to their, and they’ve been to my, home. We’ve shared so much. Watched children grow and go through Uni, get married, travel, and settle down to family life. Some of the older players are now downsizing or thinking of moving into retirement villages.

Anyway, tonight I wore Nichola and they loved it. Four random compliments.

Pichola by Neela Vermeire Creations 2015

Pichola by Bertrand Duchaufour

 

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Cardamom, cinnamon, saffron, juniper, magnolia, neroli oil, clementine, bergamot
Heart: Orange blossom absolute, rose absolute, tuberose absolute, sambac jasmine, ylang-ylang
Base: Benzoin absolute, sandalwood , driftwood, Haiti vetiver

Sweet citrus, white flowers and sharp juniper open Pichola as a burst of tart, mouth watering and puckering simultaneously. It’s a short-lived explosion that is exciting, over the top and surprisingly refreshing.

reflectionsNeela Vermeire Creations Pichola

Once the big bang is over Pichola smooths out to creamy white flowers and a hint of cardamom that helps keep the flowers soft and furry rather than a strident BWF. Actually, now that I think about it, Pichola could be an excellent choice for those that don’t love white flowers. Somehow Mr Dachaufour has taken out the indoor and teeth yet still retained the beautiful clean fleshy plushness. Quite a feat.

Even in dry down after working tonight I remain quite fragrant but in a introverted way. Soft white flowers, a hint of spicy rose and creamy sandalwood. As people hugged me goodbye tonight was when three of my compliments happened,. even though I’d been in and around them all night.

Neela Vermeire Creations Pichola magnolia_pichola

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Scented Hound
LuckyScent has 2 x 15ml – Take Two Travel Set for $125
Surrender To Chance has samples from $7/ml

Did you ever try Pichola?
Portia xx

(Ed: All photos from Neela Vermeire Creations)

Savoy Steam by Juliette Karagueuzoglou for Penhaligon`s 2017

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Ainslie Walker of Scentsmith 

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Hello Australian Perfume Junkies!

It has been a while since I have written a piece for you and I hope you’re all fragrant and well.

Last week I attended the Australian launch of Savoy Steam by Penhaligon’s at Sydney’s Langham Hotel. Hosted by Penhaligon’s Australian distributers, Agence de Parfums, it was a beautiful breakfast event with a fitting quaint English feel. There were plenty of familiar faces and I was lucky to be sitting on Michael Edwards of Fragrances of the World’s table. (NB Hot gossip from his world is that at the end of this year he will be moving back to Sydney permanently, yippee!!)

We shared homemade pastries and teacakes over tea and coffees in a ‘high tea’ style. Tables were set gorgeously with personalised calligraphy placards. The venue was in keeping with the colours of the fragrances packaging, in particular the bow on the bottles – beige and blue. The packaging is a nod to the early Turkish bathhouses popular in London from the early 20th century. Blue and beige like the traditional cloths and towels used even now. The box is simplistic yet head turning, wrapped in textured linen, it’s lovely and textured in the hand.

Michael Edwards introduced the brand and it’s long history before Michael, trainer from Agence de Parfums introduced the fragrance – drumroll: Savoy Steam!

Savoy Steam by Penhaligon`s 2017

Savoy Steam by Juliette Karagueuzoglou

Savoy Steam Penhaligon`s fragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, lemon, eucalyptus, mint, pink pepper, rosemary
Heart: Rose, geranium, cardamom, hedione, tea
Base: Benzoin, incense, vanilla, white musk

The fragrance celebrates the very first fragrance in Penhaligon’s portfolio, Hammam Bouquet from 1872. Also, as evident by the name, the scent honours the Savoy Hotel an iconic London Establishment.

If I’m honest, on arrival I expected an old fashioned barbershop scent and nothing more. I worked for years in the men’s grooming industry in London, so believe me I have smelt a few of these!! However in more ways than one, I ate my hat!! Dubbed “gender neutral” in the press release I also found the scent very much ‘on the fence.’ On paper I initially smelt rosemary – aromatic. However on skin, quite, quite different. I quickly understood a focus on the sweeter aspect of rosemary as being in the spotlight. Spiciness, described in the notes as pink pepper also to me has a cardamom like freshness. Geranium in combination makes for a rosy heart.

On my skin the fragrance remains quite sweet but spiciness lingers somewhere…incense like a faint Come des garcons Avignon – tart, bright frankincense and still huffs of sweetness. There is a juicy, wet feel to the beginning of Savoy Steam. I can imagine steam on cement. Nothing though is barbershop or old fashioned. A very nice and modern easy wear. Gentle and slightly feminine in its sweetness. If either of my grandfathers were still alive I would gift them my bottle. Not at all because it’s old fashioned, just because its gentle and sweet like they were – I think this fragrance would be absolutely lovely on a more mature gents skin, a silver fox of sorts…someone like softly spoken but majestic David Attenborough. He could wear it out to dinner.

Further reading: Scented Salamander
Libertine Parfumerie has $279/100ml

It makes me wonder what else I feel works for this age group…Do you have any favourite fragrances for folk over 60? What works, what doesn’t and why? Are fragrances ageist?

Until next time,
Ainslie XX

(Ed: All photos by Ainslie Walker unless specified. Beautiful Ainslie XXXX)

Philippe Starck Fragrances 2016

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Greg Young from AusScents.

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Hi APJ,

Last year, designer Philippe Starck ventured into the fragrance world with three perfumes. In keeping with Starck’s minimalist design philosophy, these scents are very subtle and stick close to the skin. There is some playing with preconceptions about what a gender-specific fragrance should be like; the female fragrance morphs into something more masculine, and vice versa. And it simply would not be Starck without some unusual twists on “normal” design.

http://www.starckparfums.comStarck Parfums

Philippe Starck Fragrances

From Silk to Rock

Peau de Soie Starck FragranticaFragrantica

Peau de Soie by Dominique Ropion for Philippe Starck 2016

Skin of Silk. The most feminine fragrance in the range, Peau de Soie is as silky-smooth as the name implies. It’s a very soft, powdery scent. Peau de Soie opens with unobtrusive woody notes and then develops a mild floral note reminiscent of iris and a candy-like musk. On my skin this lasted about half the day, but it had almost zero projection. One needs to sniff one’s wrist closely to enjoy it.

Peau d`Ailleurs Starck FragranticaFragrantica

Peau d`Ailleurs by Annick Menardo for Philippe Starck 2016

Skin from Elsewhere. Yes, well this is very well-named in a sense, because it has notes that I’ve never encountered in a fragrance before. It opens earthy, with a green, vegetal whiff to it. A few close sniffs revealed an aroma of freshly cut beetroot which, once identified, became inescapable.

After a while, a transition away from earthiness begins and we get a faint lemony smell followed by musk and a little bit of wood. This also lasted about half a day on my skin.

Is beetroot a thing? Not according to the Fragrantica database. Nevertheless, I found myself quite liking this very different take on an earthy scent. I could easily see this one polarising sniffers; it’s a brave attempt from a designer renowned for his original thinking.

Peau de Pierre Starck fragranticaFragrantica

Peau de Pierre by Daphne Bugey for Philippe Starck 2016

Skin of Stone. This one represents the end of a journey from silky lightness through an indefinable greenness down to earth and woods. There is a trace of sharp citrus on the first spray with a green note that I thought might be galbanum. A dominant cedary smell takes over, with a smoky aura about it. It comes across a little bit soapy at times, so I don’t think it quite fulfils the promise of its name, but it is probably my favourite of the three. It lasted a bit less than the others; maybe about 6 hours.

The subtlety of these scents means that individual notes rarely dominate; they are designed to be appreciated as a melange of their various parts. They all last a good long time on skin and are ideal if you’re wearing a fragrance solely to please yourself, or in an intimate encounter. If you’re up for something a bit different, the Starck range may be for you.

These reviews were based on samples given to me by Marco at Mason’s Menswear Boutique in Flinders Lane which is, I believe, the sole Australian outlet for the Starck line. (Ed: These guys have only been open for 13 weeks and are already generating a lot of media interest. We will watch with interest! They were super friendly on the phone today)

Greg XX

Saturday Question: What’s On Your Perfume Wishlist?

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Portia

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Hello Fellow Fumies,

Once a week here on Australian Perfume Junkies we have a Question, an idea purloined from Olfactoria’s Travels. Everyone gets to chime in with an answer, chat with other responders and it is generally a fun event each week. Taking sides never means taking offence and everyone keeps it respectful and light, even though we can sometimes trawl the depths.

The idea is you’ll see it on the weekend or chime in through the week. Hopefully you will come back and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them.

Over 100 responses I will draw a $10 Surrender To Chance Gift Card.
Over 200 responses I will draw a $20 Surrender To Chance Gift Card.
Comment purposefully on yours or anothers comment & you’ll have a chance, random.org will draw on Friday.

Last Weeks Winner: $10 Surrender To Chance Gift Card Lillibet

Saturday Question: What’s On Your Perfume Wishlist?

PDI

What’s On Your Perfume Wishlist? My Answer…

OK, so here’s my WishList from June 2015

Portia’s TO-BUY List June 2015

  1. 25.9.11 by Hilde Soliani
  2. Absolue Pour le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
  3. Aedes de Venustas – Original
  4. Ambra di Luna by Ramon Monegal
  5. Ambra Mediterranea by Profumi del Forte
  6. Barkhane by Teo Cabanel
  7. Bottega Veneta parfum
  8. Chambre Noire by Olfactive Studio
  9. Cologne by Thierry Mugler
  10. Cuir Cuba Intense by Parfums De Nicolai
  11. Eau Absolue by Mona di Orio
  12. Encens Mythique d’Orient by Guerlain
  13. eo03 by biehl parfumkunstwerke
  14. Fleur Nocturne by Isabey
  15. Grandiflora Michel by Magnolia Grandiflora
  16. Granville by Christian Dior
  17. Hedonist by Viktoria Minya
  18. Moon Bloom by Hiram Green
  19. Jasmin et Cigarette by Etat Libre d’Orange
  20. Jasmin Rouge by Tom Ford
  21. L´Ombre Fauve by Parfumerie Générale
  22. Lea by Calypso St. Barth
  23. Lux by Mona di Orio
  24. Misia by CHANEL
  25. Nuit d’Amour by Guerlain
  26. Nuit de Noel Parfum by Caron
  27. Or du Serail by Naomi Goodsir
  28. Oriental Mint by Phaedon Paris
  29. Pichola by Neela Vermeire Creations
  30.  Rozy Eau de Parfum by Vero Profumo
  31. Sensual Orchid by LM Parfums
  32. Silver Man by Amouage
  33. Special for Gentlemen by Le Galion
  34. Sushi Imperiale by Bois 1920
  35. Tobacco Rose by Papillon Perfumery
  36. Tokyo Bloom by The Different Company
  37. Tzor’a by Anat Fritz
  38. Wit by Parfums DelRae
    I may have added a few more since then
  39. Ombre de Hyacinth by Tom Ford
  40. Vert Boheme by Tom Ford
  41. No 18 EdP by CHANEL
  42. Bois des Iles EdP by CHANEL
  43. Tobacco Nuit by Atelier cologne
  44. Sables by Annick Goutal
  45. De Profundis by Serge Lutens (Vaporisateur)
  46. Dõjima by Mona di Orio
  47. Suède de Suède by Mona di Orio
  48. Tadzio by Homoelegans
  49. 754 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
  50. Daiquiris by Laboratorio Olfattivo

Anything with a line through means I’ve bought a bottle. Anything blue means I’ve changed my mind on it for whatever reason.

Let’s keep your WISHLIST to Top 5.

So my question to you today is: What are the Top 5 things on your wishlist?

 

Calligraphy Rose by Trudi Loren for Aramis 2013

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Portia

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Hey APJ,

I remember wanting this trilogy so bad when they came out but somehow they never made it into the final buy. Recently a friend sent me a large sample in with a bottle I bought and I thought it might be fun to take a look at it now after four more years to see if it’s still on the list. Especially now that the discounters have it for a song.

Calligraphy Rose by Aramis 2013

Calligraphy Rose by Trudi Loren

Calligraphy Rose Aramis FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Oregano, saffron, honeysuckle
Heart: Turkish rose, myrrh, styrax, lavender
Base: Labdanum, musk, ambergris, olibanum

The opening of Calligraphy rose is very much like Turkish Delight. A soft rosewater jelly rolled in sugar, beautiful. This impression doesn’t last very long before the fragrance turns very rose, a clean, green, dry, tea rose. It’s sweet but not sickly, the perfect balance. Sheer but fragrant and not something you’d expect from the mass market. It also tackles the Middle East in a very soft and gentle manner without any of the usual hyper-masculine oud and woods attached to the rose.

Calligraphy Rose Aramis SevenSeventyFive FlickrFlickr

In Calligraphy Rose the resins and rose join seamlessly and the humanity is very clean. I’m imagining, from my zero experience of such things other than through literature and TV, this is what a freshly washed woman in the harem or zenana would smell like. It’s a hairless fleshiness, overlaid with spicy resins and rosewater. A cool sensuality that I would love to smell on a man. On the average Aussie guy Calligraphy Rose would be totally unexpected and a delightful surprise. Also, thinking of the hours of work and the way fragrance melds with the bodies own fragrant offerings it would add dimensions undreamed of.

Calligraphy Rose Aramis Senior_wives_chaupar_1790 WikiCommonsWikiCommons

Like most Aramis scents the longevity is excellent and projection very good for the first few hours. I wish more men smelled like this.

Further reading: Australian Perfume Junkies and Persolaise
FragranceNet has around $50/100ml

Did you try or buy this one?
Portia xx

Woodcut by Ellen Covey for Olympic Orchids 2014

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Portia

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Hello Indie Frag Heads,

This was the Winner of the 2015 Art and Olfaction Award in the artisan category. How has it passed me by? Heard, as a huge fan of Ellen’s work to not know this. I find her ability to create magnificent, multifaceted fragrance with depth and luster second to none. If you have only ever smelled designer and niche fragrance then Olympic Orchids is a horse of a different colour. Your nose will be surprised.

OK, I’ve found why I never got to Woodcut. Azar wrote very early on about it here on Australian Perfume Junkies. Now if one of the team gets to a frag first that usually means I can go smell something else in my ever expending pile of unsniffed fragrance so sometimes, even with a favourite perfumer, I gratefully let that one slide. Anyway, I recently bought this sample and WOW!

Woodcut by Olympic Orchids 2014

Woodcut by Ellen Covey

Olympic Orchids

Olympic Orchids gives these featured accords:
Fractional distillations of pine and cedar, oakwood absolute, tolu balsam, olibanum, caramel, burnt sugar, vanilla

Eating chocolate by the woodpile, maybe making chocolates in a wood kitchen, I am smiling from ear to ear. The wood is SO REAL and the hint of chocolate is making my tummy grumble for some. Soon the smell of charred wood or blown out matches joins the fray and that heavenly overlay of caramel keeps everything sweet. Maple syrup sweet rather than fairy floss. BOY this is good stuff, no surprise that it won the Art & Olfaction Award.

Woodcut by Olympic Orchids MIH83 PixabayPDI

Sweet, warm and resinous woods. My friend TinaG said, “Hello snuggily winter days”. She’s right. It is a perfect winter fit but I also bet it would be refreshing in the heat of summer too.

Further reading: Fragrance Daily and Australian Perfume Junkies
Olympic Orchids has a 5ml Travel Spray for only $18

Do you ever try the Indie Perfume makers? Which is a favourite?
Portia xx

Figment Woman by Dorothée Piot, Karine Vinchon-Spehner for Amouage 2017

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Erica Golding

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Hi everyone! I hope you are having the most gorgeous day.

As for myself, I’m enjoying yet another knock-me-over-with-a-feather moment thanks to an aromatic marvel. However, the magic of this perfume is not from drama and fireworks and bombastic notes; rather, its spell is cast by subtly enhancing a popular floral absolute just enough to launch it into the night sky.

Tuberose.

Now, I know you may be thinking that this beloved blossom has graced an infinite range of fragrances, and who needs yet another Tuberose when you’ve got Fracas and Carnal Flower and La Chasse Aux Papillons?

Trust me, you’re going to want to get your nose on the just-released:

Figment Woman by Amouage 2017

Figment Woman by Dorothée Piot and Karine Vinchon-Spehner

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Sichuan pepper, saffron, gardenia
Heart: Tuberose, jasmine, orange blossom, lily, ylang-ylang, cassia bourbon
Base: Orris, papyrus, incense, patchouli

I was skeptical when I lifted the cap from my decant and inhaled a first impression. Instantaneously, all that registered with me was a pleasant tuberose note that, although pretty, was not piquing my interest. I placed the little glass vial on my nightstand and almost forgot about it, except for the fact that the warm spring breeze drifting through my window began to carry wafts of an enchanting scent, beckoning for my attention. It didn’t take long for me to realize that this beauty deserved skin time, immediately!

Figment Woman Amouage old-window-distressed PublicDomainPicturesPDI

How does it smell?
Wet on the skin, jasmine slinks seductively, sexy and sultry. Orange blossom kisses the top of the fragrance with an effortless freshness, softly cheerful. The tuberose in the heart is of exceptional quality. This is genuine high grade absolute, delicate yet intense, a sweetness that flirts with the edge of imbalance but never tips the scales.
At the base of the fragrance, I sense a whisper of oakmoss amongst the rich yet very quiet and subtle resins. The bottom of this composition is understated. I don’t explicitly pick up on patchouli or incense as components of Figment Woman, they accent the aroma with exquisite grace and moderation.

Amouage Figment Woman is a lovely, attractive perfume that is perfectly pleasant for office/daytime wear, while also exhibiting magnetic properties making it a lovely choice for a hot summer night. I would wear it whenever, wherever, truly! It probably sings a little better in warmer weather but honestly it’s just so damn pretty that I can’t imagine it matters very much.

Figment Woman Amouage doll Ventus17 PixabayPDI

Further reading: Perfume Posse

Does it read like something you’d wear?

With love and light,
Erica