1889 Moulin Rouge by Gérald Ghislain, Sylvie Jourdet for Histoires de Parfums 2010

.

Portia

.

Hey there Niche Nerds,

A while back my mate Sonya was having a clear out. One of the fragrances that I loved when I first smelled it but never came back to again is today’s scent. You know how that happens yeah? You’re MADLY in love with it when you spritz it in store, you buy a 2ml decant and use it up but before you pull the trigger on your credit card something else gets you excited and you move on. TBH I wish that would play out a bit more often for me, HA! I’d have 1/3 the collection currently in this house.

1889 Moulin Rouge by Histoires de Parfums 2010

1889 Moulin Rouge by Gérald Ghislain, Sylvie Jourdet

Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin, Plum, Cinnamon
Heart: Absinth, Damascus rose
Base: Iris, Patchouli, Musk, Fur

Plum and cardboardy iris are my first whiff, it’s VERY stage make up smelling. We used to use pots of carmine lipstick and they smelled remarkably like this. The rose waltzes in underneath the radar and gradually makes itself known. Personally I think of absinth as far more herbal and astringent than the soft focus booziness in Moulin Rouge, it feels more creamy cocktail-ish or even that drink that you have at Harry’s bar in Venice; the Bellini. Sweet and lightly sparkling.

Moulin Rouge by Histoires de Parfums Bellini_at_Harry's_Bar WikiMediaWikiMedia

Iris though is king in Moulin Rouge, from top to bottom it dominates, quietly but insistent. One of the things I really love about Moulin Rouge is its understated smellability. Though you are fragrant and people can smell you it does not feel intrusive or overpowering, somehow it manages that fine line of smelling fabulous but not intrusive.

Skewed towards what we think of as a feminine fragrance I think it an excellent choice for the guys as well. I can easily imagine it being a signature scented point of difference for a man in an office.

Moulin Rouge by Histoires de Parfums Quadrille_at_the_Moulin_Rouge WikiMediaWikiMedia

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Non Blonde
ParfuMaria has €95/60ml

What is your favourite olde world makeup scent?
Portia xx

Saffron Veil by Irina Adam for Phoenix Botanicals

.

Erica Golding

.

Hello all, I hope your day is spectacular so far!

Today, I am letting a secret out and telling you all about the most beautiful perfume I have smelled in many years. I’m not exaggerating. It is UNREAL!

Many of you may have heard about Phoenix Botanicals, an up and coming natural perfume company. I’ve been digging Irina’s scents for years, and she was a 2017 Art and Olfaction finalist nominee for Vanilla and the Sea. I adore her vision and the trajectory of her talent, but nothing prepared me for the supernova of obsession that flared when I recently inhaled this masterpiece:

Saffron Veil by Phoenix Botanicals

Saffron Veil by Irina Adam

Saffron Veil Phoenix Botanicals FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Violet, Saffron, Herbs, Tuberose, Boronia, Sandalwood, Resins, Smoke

When was the last time that you tried a sample on your skin and almost fell over? That was my first impression of Saffron Veil. I curiously swabbed a drop on my skin, interested but not expecting much from the afterthought sample add-on to my order.

Truly, my knees gave out for a second and I had to sit on my bed.

The opening is boozy for a moment, as the grape alcohol carrier announces the aroma with a triumphant symphonic blast. And what a triumph it is – have you ever experienced genuine high-grade saffron absolute? Words can hardly approximate the experience, but this saffron exhibits a leathery richness like the finest buttery suede. It also has a touch of bitterness like vetiver grass, sunlit smoky hay. This saffron anchor, although a lower note in the fragrance, dominates the opening. Interestingly, the saffron also offers longevity even as it slides into its decrescendo.

Saffron Veil Phoenix Botanicals 5ml EtsyEtsy

As the saffron detonation begins to settle and equilibrate, the composition makes way for the most heartbreaking floral bouquet I have ever known. Hawaiian tuberose, magnolia, boronia, and violet harmonize like an unlikely squad of lifelong friends who are all incredibly unique and different. The tuberose is the primary note that I detect, and it is pure magic. This tuberose is the real deal, highly prized (and accordingly costly), and my self-expression shuts down into a sputtering of small words as I try to describe it: Wax, butter, sugar, lush, humid, sweet, green, tropical, delicate, voluptuous. Quietly humming at the bottom, I sense a hint of smooth sandalwood and perhaps benzoin and myrrh.

The perfume longevity on the skin is exceptional for a natural fragrance, especially one with such soul-smashingly breathtaking volatile notes. Saffron Veil lasts for several hours, and if I spray it onto my clothing, it lasts all day. It’s a bold fragrance, possibly a little daring for work but that hasn’t stopped me!

What a dream.

Etsy

Saffron Veil from Au$69/5ml

I hope you will consider trying a sample of Saffron Veil, I would love to talk about it! I haven’t fallen for a perfume this hard in years.

Love and light,
Erica

Cookie Queen & Blondeswunder in London 2017

.

Blondeswunder
Val the Cookie queen
.

Hey APJ Family, Happy Tuesday!

As soon as Mummy and I landed in Brexit we met up with the lovely and good friend Tara. She whisked us straight to Brick Lane
for some Indian food. I had aubergine drenched in some kind of spices sauce. It was sooooo good that I asked how they prepared
the aubergine. Turns out they freaking deep fried it twice. THAT´S WHY! Hahahaha.

Of course we were sniffing and sharing our thoughts over dinner because Indian cuisine isn´t fragrant enough alone. 🙂

Cookie Queen & Blondeswunder in London 2017

The next day, after two cups of English tea and countless visits to various loos along the way, we finally made it to the Frederic Malle store. I was very pleased to see a handsome, well put together young male SA, Pawel. Sadly for me he has an Italian boyfriend. Should have known! We got to smell and spritz perfume all over our bodies. I couldn´t chose so just went with Carnal Flower, Dries Van Noten, Eau de Magnolia, and Malle`s newest, Superstitious.

 

Of course when I had no more skin space I discovered Lipstick Rose. OH MY GOOOSH. So good. So soft. So me. Pawel was nice enough to give me a 3.5ml sample bottle to try it properly. Tara, Mummy and I were ready to kill with our sillage as we left for our pre-booked tour of Highgate Cemetery. We ended the day in Camden Market eating street food and chips.

The Thursday saw us meeting a close family friend of ours, Kirk, The Softboy Scentmaster. (My mum pulled him down the rabbit hole a couple of years ago.) Somehow our plans got changed and Mother dragged us back into the Malle store. I grabbed four spritzes of Dries Van Noten and covered my hair in the Carnal Flower hair mist. (Which I need in my life!) We then proceeded to the Gielgud Theatre just off Piccadilly, to see The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Nightime. It was absolutely brilliant. (We kept smelling each others necks and arms, and getting looks from the people around us. I mean, haven´t they ever seen people smelling each other every two seconds in public?)

 

Early evening we got to meet up with The Candy Perfume Boy and his lovely husband, on the bank of the Thames outside the Tate Modern.

Even though I am 22 and my Mother occasionally drives me nuts (mostly because I seem to be turning into her) we had the best time in London. And I was so happy to see Tara again, she is one of the strongest women I know, and I so look up to her and what she has achieved. How great it is to find such friends and peace and joy in perfume.

What are your FM favourites? DO you like perfume to be private or do you like letting people know?

Hugs
Blondeswunder

PS. Mother here – What can I add? I bought 10mls each of Dries Van Noten and Une Rose. I came home with big decants
of La Pausa 28, OJ Champaca, and Goutal´s Songes EdT and a Papillon´s Dryad sample. A non-perfumista friend went crazy for Outrageous! I missed Vanessa from Bonkers being able to join us, but shit happens. I feel blessed to have a daughter that actually wants to go away with me for a few days, she lights up my life with her humour and sunny character. CQ xxx

 

(Ed: Thanks for the photos Val and Hannah. Love them all)

Oliver & Co + LuckyScent Sample

.

Portia

.

Hey Crew,

I was looking through my unused/untried/unloved samples today.In the box there are a few of the LuckyScent Sample Bags. Every month they put together a bunch of samples of their new, seasonal or interesting stuff. I like to buy these packs because invariably there are a few things I would NEVER try on my own. Also I trust the LuckyScent guys to have the best of the best. If they’re flogging it then it must be in some way spectacular.

In every couple of bags though there are things I have already tried. So there are a bunch of bags in the box with the vials as yet unopened. Today we are giving away one such set. A company that doesn’t get enough attention on blogs or press but who recently won a big award, the Duftstar 2017 for “Best Artistic Independent Perfume” for their latest offering Ambergreen.

M.O.U.S.S.E. by Oliver & Co 2012

Fragrantica

Oliver & Co gives these featured accords:
Aldehydes, clove bud, iso e super, lavender absolute, lime, Mysore sandalwood, oakmoss, white musks

Spicy clove and green notes, peppery. Zingy, glittering spices that seem to shoot from my arm like the reflected lights of a disco ball through the light smoky haze of a club. Metallic, cool and sharp through the heart I find M.O.U.S.S.E. both challenging and alluring. My nose continually sniffing for changes in mood and texture. They come slowly and with graceful dignity, nothing in M.O.U.S.S.E. is fast paced after the initial fireworks. It’s gradual sliding into a new fragrant level.

Only towards the very deepest dry down does M.O.U.S.S.E. show any sign of warming through, as if my personal scent is finally winning the battle with this fragrant interstellar intruder and finally humanising it. The ride is sensational without being too freaky for daily wear.

Oliver & Co has €110/50ml
LuckyScent has some of the range $130/50ml

LuckyScentOliver & Co Sample GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week there will be 1 winner who will receive:
1 x 0.7ml Oliver & Co Dunard LuckyScent Sample
1 x 0.7ml Oliver & Co Gincense LuckyScent Sample
1 x 0.7ml Oliver & Co La Colonia LuckyScent Sample
1 x 0.7ml Oliver & Co M.O.U.S.S.E. LuckyScent Sample 

P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please go to the Oliver & Co site <<JUMP and tell us in the comments a Fragrance and ONE Ingredient (Don’t be greedy and name more than one, those entries will be ignored) NO DOUBLE UPS

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Wednesday 24th May 2017 10pm Australian EdsT and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Wednesday 31st May 2017 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit

Citron d`Erable by Atelier Cologne 2016

.

Portia

.

Hi there APJ,

On Google translate the meaning of Citron d`Erable is Lemon of Maple, whatever that means. It is not, as I originally heard it, Citron Terrible. OOOPSIE! Citron d’Erable is sold as a Limited Edition among the Atelier Cologne Collection Azur and comes in a darker than azure bottle. I like the simplicity of the Atelier flasks, they are very cool and slightly nerdy/hipster. When I see them in the coloured glass I think of the person who has a single bottle of fragrance at any one time. In my imagination that fragrance bottle probably sits on a bathroom counter or bedroom bureau and adds a feeling of industrial intimacy in an often minimalist environment. That splash of interesting, flamboyance even, in a stark and modern taste void.

Citron d`Erable by Atelier Cologne 2016

Citron d`Erable Atelier Cologne FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Maple syrup, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian mandarin
Heart: Chinese sichuan pepper, Eucalyptus, French blackcurrant
Base: Maple wood, Cedarwood, Sequoia

This fragrance was originally produced in 2016 for Canadian Sephora exclusively. It seems that it made the cut to the range but could still be a Limited Edition. It’s only just landed in Australia so I’m pretty excited to have a sample that the Libertine Parfumerie crew sent me. Thanks guys.

Citron d’Erable opens with a startling citrus, so strong and fizzy. I spritzed on my chest and even from there I was surprised by the enormity of it and wondered if I may have overspritzed. Luckily within a few seconds the screech had subsided and a luscious citrus, like a multi citrus juice or freshly cut oranges, limes, lemons, mandarines or grapefruit came through. It’s delightful and warmed through by the maple syrup slowly over the next 10 minutes.

Citron d`Erable Atelier Cologne Maple MaxPixelPDI

The citrus doesn’t leave though, it stays and becomes sweetened by blackcurrant. Bittersweetened actually. It provides interesting counterpoint to the citrus & maple. That’s kind of where Citron d’Erable stays on my skin. It wafts around for quite a while only getting slightly drier and woodsier towards dry down.

If you are a fruity fragrance fan this will definitely be your jam. You like the Escada frags? This is a posh version of their screech. I’m thinking it might lure some who are not so impressed by the genre as well. It feels like an expensively created shimmery fruit fragrance.

Citron d`Erable Atelier Cologne Blackcurrant Pezibear PixabayPDI

Further reading: Colognoisseur
Libertine Parfumerie has $199/100ml with FREE Australian Shipping

How does a warm citrus for cooler weather sound to you?
Portia xx

PG25 Indochine by Pierre Guillaume for Parfumerie Générale 2011

.

Portia

.

Hey Swett Scenters,

As you know I madly adore Pierre Guillaume. He makes a bunch of fragrances I love and a few noses that I really admire claim he’s as good as I think he is. That’s enough for me. He seems to be able to make what we modernly think of as a masculine idea, the woods, and create this non bloke=ish, sweet and gourmand event with them. THEN, to add to the joy these woodsy notes remain wearable by both sexes. The sweetness never eclipses the basic woodiness and once on masculine skin WOW! So beautiful.

PG25 Indochine by Parfumerie Générale 2011

PG25 Indochine by Pierre Guillaume

PG25 Indochine Pierre Guillaume FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Cambodian pepper, Sri Lankan cardamom
Heart: Thanaka wood, Laotian honey
Base: Benzoin Siam

Sweet, honeyed amber is my opening impression. It doesn’t take long though for dry black ground pepper to sneak in underneath and lift the thickness, creating some counterpoint. It’s still filled with a golden glow though and warms me right through. Pretty and comfortable for our cooling temps.

Indochina wears as a sweet peppery amber that gets woodsier as it dries down. I find the honey clean and sweet with only the softest hint of animals. I love how through the day as I personally start to smell a little lived in the fragrance moves and grows more human with me. It never becomes nasty or growly but does lose some of its new minted, just showered feel.

I had a few compliments on this tonight. One of the club workers kept coming over to smell me and tell me all the things it made her think of, plus a couple of other random compliments. A clear winner.

Who could wear Indochina? Anyone who likes their woods sweetened or their honey clean. It is a very intimate scent without the usual siren calls of sexiness. Very dressed up or casual, no problem. Initially sillage is quite prominent but after about an hour & a half it becomes a much closer sweetness. An excellent scent for wearing to undress.

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Scented Hound
LuckyScent has $125/50ml + Samples

Do you have a favourite Pierre Guillaume fragrance?
Portia xx

 

Chanel Pour Monsieur by Henri Robert for CHANEL 1955

.

Greg Young

.

Hello APJers,

Released in 1955 Chanel Pour Monsieur is the venerable grand-daddy of Chanel’s line of male fragrances. I was lucky enough to find some vintage bottles of this gem.

Chanel Pour Monsieur by CHANEL 1955

Chanel Pour Monsieur by Henri Robert

Pour Monsieur Chanel FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, Verbena, Neroli, Orange
Heart: Cardamom, Coriander, Basil, Ginger
Base: Oakmoss, Vetiver, Cedarwood

The three bottles here are a large splash bottle of vintage Pour Monsieur EdT, a bottle of Pour Monsieur After Shave, and a large splash bottle labelled A Gentleman’s Cologne. Pour Monsieur was marketed to the English-speaking world as A Gentleman’s Cologne during the 60s, so this is probably the same fragrance, despite the clear colour difference.

I took these bottles into the Chadstone Chanel store, and the staff there told me that they had never seen PM in those bottles, and did not think that it had ever been sold in Australia in those forms. We did some sniff tests on cards, comparing to the latest EdT. Only the after shave held up; the splash bottles had a bit of a plonky smell, suggesting that both had turned.

I decided to take one for the team, and decanted each of them into atomisers for some skin testing. I often find that, like with vintage wine, decanting old perfume can liven it up a bit.

The AGC is most likely the oldest of the three. The bottle is a different shape and has a different spout and cap to the PM bottle. My best dating puts this at 1962-1969, so it is about 50 years old. The colour looks fine, but the real test is the smell. From the first spray, this one is dominated by cardamom, with a touch of ginger. It sticks very close to the skin, and has almost no sillage. After an hour or so, the cedar has taken over, with a bit of oakmoss. I can’t make out any florals or vetiver. It is still there 5 hours later, so not too bad. As a woody aromatic, this AGC still stands up although it is clearly only a shadow of its former self.

The PM EdT probably dates to either 1985 or 1993, going by the batch code. The years have not been kind to this one, as the dark brown colour attests. On skin, it goes straight to the base notes of cedar and vetiver, and all but disappeared within a couple of hours.

The After Shave is in better shape than the other two. Some of the top notes are still present, notably petitgrain. It softens quickly though and, again, sticks very close to the skin. It’s a bit linear, and doesn’t develop the spices and woods that should be present before it disappears. Presumably this is due to the lighter concentration; perhaps more copious spraying might turn this one into a winner.

This was an interesting experiment. It was almost like being able to separate out the layers of a classic fragrance and smell them concurrently: the aftershave giving the top notes, the Cologne the middle notes and the EdT the base notes. Unfortunately, none of these three delivers as a standalone fragrance, and each is probably only good for collecting rather than wearing. It did make me keen to go full bottle on some Chanel Pour Monsieur though, if I can find a vintage bottle in better shape than these three.

(My thanks to Ali at Chanel Chadstone for her help).

See you soon,
Greg

(ED: This piece was first run on Greg’s new blog AusScents. Please zip over and have a squiz.)