100ml La Fille de Berlin by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2013

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Portia

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Heya APJ Crew,

Lots of people have been bitching about the brand new bottle and I understand that nobody likes change. I also understand that if you have a set of Serge Lutens bottles that this is not going to fit. What did you do when you changed to CDs? Yes. This is the excuse you needed to get a new set. I do like that price per ml has gone down. I think that is really classy of Shishedo, when every body else is aspirational pricing their arses out of my ballpark. Serge Lutens is still making a fabulous, affordable product. Now I can uberspritz my La Fille De Berlin with no thought to running out.

When the new bottle was first available in Paris I got my bottle but things have been so hectic around here I didn’t get time to write you my thoughts.

La Fille de Berlin by Serge Lutens 2013

La Fille de Berlin by Christopher Sheldrake

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Rose, geranium
Heart: Palmarosa
Base: Oakmoss, honey, patchouli

Cherry roses and pepper on opening with a softly metallic twang. Interesting how quickly it dries out. On Tina’s skin it stayed a crisp snap of cutting of a rose stem, violet and geranium – much cooler, where my skin the honey has taken over almost immediately and you can definitely smell the dryness of palmarosa. Smells expensive. So many Serge Lutens are freaky – this misses out on the freaky and is a very expensive rose + glam. Unusually for Serge, the honey is clean and not so animalic. We’re not smelling any of the bees or the wax on either of our skins.

La Fille de Berlin makes me smile. The rose is deep and burnished and a little bit boozy.

So fragrant yet La Fille de Berlin isn’t in your face, it manages to be quite a heavy perfume but restrained. It hits my dressed up evening button but I’ve also been enjoying wearing it in the warm spring daytime air around here.

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and EauMG
Mecca has some $171/50ml and $294/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples from $6/ml

What do you think of the new 100ml bottles?
Portia xx

Clair de Musc by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2003

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Portia

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Heya Fumies,

So recently there have been wild rumours going around about the Serge Lutens brand. Bottle changes, discontinuations, export going to bell and vice versa. It has freaked me out so I finally bit the bullet and bought a few I’ve been humming and having over. Grabbed some of them on the discount sites and others I paid retail. Got a couple of the DCd vaporisator bottles and a brand new 100ml of La Fille de Berlin. Expensive couple of months but I am glad.

Clair de Musc by Serge Lutens 2003

Clair de Musc by Christopher Sheldrake

Clair de Musc Serge Lutens fragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Iris, musk, neroli, bergamot

My noses telling me fruity musks but it doesn’t smell like citrus. Actually it has a kind of metallic smell like icy gutters. Sheer and weightless yet surprisingly full of scent. An interesting oxymoron.

In Clair de Musc the iris is earthy and only slightly cardboard, a very cool, aloof, spacious iris that whispers elegant restraint.

I have some problems smelling some musks but these are fragrant to me. Both clean and animal come through, there’s a very soft funkiness but the focus is laundry clean.

Clair de Musc by Serge Lutens -John_Downman_-_The_Ghost_of_Clytemnestra_Awakening_the_Furies WikiMediaWikiMedia

My mind keeps wandering to who this scent could be created for. It seems to sit at a weird crossroads between animal and mechanical. As if a robot or computer are trying to generate human smells to cloak their inhumanity. It seems they can only work within the confines of their AI scented vocabulary though. Though Clair de Musc gets furry, it’s not a puppy or even a piglet but the scratchy glass fibres of roof insulation or the petrochemical created fake fur in flour colours. Everything seems just a bit off true. It makes the journey really interesting.

So I’m thinking it would be an excellent scent for work, to project the scent of absolute industrial strength dedication and a computers focus. Brilliant job interview scent, especially for someone in IT, engineering or construction.

Will I wear mine? I’m not sure that it will reached for often but the times that I want to smell just like this it will definitely get a triple spritz.

Clair de Musc by Serge Lutens chipmunk lilac & green field jil111 pixabayPDI

Further reading: I Scent You A Day and Non-Blonde
FragranceNet has around $100/50ml before Coupon
Surrender To Chance has samples from $6/ml

Also, having read a few reviews of Clair de Musc it seems everyone gets entirely different experiences from it. So even if my review has you gasping to grab a bottle do test first.

Have a lovely day.
Do you like musks?
Portia xx

Summertime Favourites and Sharing a Dream

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BlondesWunder

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How you all doing APJ?

I guess I am in a very lucky position still being able to chose what I want to do with my life. I pretty much have no boundaries (except money, haha), and a world welcoming me with open arms. That makes it freaking difficult to make a choice. It is hard enough selecting a perfume each day, how the hell am I supposed to choose between studying, au-pairing, work and whatever else? (I think I am gonna study and do freelance makeup, but watch this space)

Summertime Favourites and Sharing a Dream

Being honest with you, I do have a dream; one that I have pushed aside for a few years, always finding an excuse not to quite start it. It is scary and even a bit embarrassing. Now that I am going to tell you I will have to go through with it! Maybe some of you will follow along. My big dream is to make YouTube videos, and lots of social media. There, I said it.

Flickr

I know how much work it will be, well actually I probably don´t, and I will need to learn everything, especially editing. I am sure I will get the hang of it.

When I tell people this is what I want to do the first thing they say is “don´t you think there are enough people doing it?” My passion is still makeup. However, as a makeup artist I think there are too many extreme makeup tutorials out there. Working for MAC has really made me see that the majority of people don´t want to wear neon eyeshadows or green, blue and black lipstick. At least not every day! Here is where I hopefully step in and show you how the right concealer and a touch of mascara not only makes you look fresher, it also changes your mood. I want to do vlogs and short #scentoftheday clips too. I will be myself and see where it leads me. I am going to start working in some videos. If you have any advice for me ….. Join me on my crazy journey if you have time.

Perfume!

This has been my first summer that I have worn perfume. I never liked perfume in the heat, but my nose seems to have changed drastically over the last year and I have been enjoying it a lot. I have been lavishly wearing:

Fragrantica

Guerlain Terracotta
Malle´s Dries van Noten and Malle´s Carnal Flower (The Carnal Flower hair mist is on my shopping list, it is divine.)
Serge Lutens Tubereuse Criminelle (I have nearly emptied my Mum´s old bell jar)

Fragrantica

What have your summer staples been?

If you wear perfume, wear a lot of it! I want people to faint next to me on the train because I smell so fab.

Love and peace, follow your dreams,

xxx Blondewunder
@b.londedswunder

Scent Diary: 28.8 – 3.9.2017

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Portia

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Hey Fumie Family,

Some amazing fragrances and friends this week. As always we are chock block full of fun stuff but it has also been tempered by a LOT of time at the computer organising to be away in India for two weeks. All the Trivia Q&A needed to be written and the blog pre-arranged and editing in the Contributors, who all worked really hard to get their months pieces in on time (THANKS GANG!!).

Scent Diary: 28.8 – 3.9.2017

Monday 28:

It’s 12.30am and I am watching The Defenders on Netflix. I should be asleep but am totally engrossed. He He he. Watched the last 3 eps tonight but I want MORE!! It is so good.

Bedtime now 3am. Spritzing Queen by Queen Latifah. Citrus, booze, vanilla and resins. It is thick and ropey with a meaty patchouli.

Woke up late to a soft vanilla wash of scent and jumped up to walk and feed the dogs. On our wander we found a brand new greyhound living in an apartment a block away. I was chatting to him but our dogs said a hurried hello and then their heads were snuffling something interesting on the ground. I love that more people are realising greyhounds are perfect apartment pets.

Today is dedicated to getting as much APJ blog stuff ready as possible so I can start writing my Trivia Q&A for the two weeks I’ll be in India.

Jin and I went for Yum Cha this morning and the rest of my day was spent computer bound. So much done. It’s looking good.

Wafting some vintage Bal a Versailles parfum on my neck. Smells great.

My head is not co-operating tonight. Q&A goes very slowly.

Tuesday 29:

2am all Trivia done and now I’m going to have a Boucheron Trouble bubble bath followed by a mega spritz of the Boucheron Trouble EdP. Then I’m going to bed.

You won’t believe this. woke up this morning and my OTHER foot is sore. Must have kicked the wall in my sleep. OUCHIE WaWa. I’ll walk it out today and hopefully everything will be good. Enjoying Trouble so much I spritzed it again.

Scott and I did office work and running around today. It was a full, fun day.

Watched Green Lantern again. Vintage Miss Dior EdT for bed. MMMMMMM

Wednesday 30:

What an incredibly beautiful morning. Sun is shining and it feels like a perfect spring day. I’m about to feed and walk the dogs then today will be spent at the computer organising APJ and some Trivia Q&A.

After lunch decided I needed something a bit rich and woodsy so Guerlain Santal Royal got a triple spritz to the chest. Exactly what I was looking for. A sweet, smooth, creamy wood/rose/oud combo.

It was one of my BFFs birthdays this week, Phil. So three of us got together to celebrate. We went to my favourite Chinese in Sydney Lui Rose in Concord. It was a special night with champagne, laughs, food and presents. Happy Birthday Phil! You’re amazing.

Tried to do some Trivia Q&A work but my mind wasn’t having any of it so Parfum d’Empire Equistrius and bed.

Thursday 31:

Tina came over this morning and we walked the dogs together.

Then we had fresh bakes scones with passionfruit lemon curd, raspberry jam or honey and fresh whipped cream. Tea was a blend of Peppermint Green Tea created by Suzanne R Banks. Perfect last day of winter fare.

You can see in the left of the photo that the Hawthorn is blooming currently. The ,local council decided it was best to sheer 6 feet of it just before it flowered, assholes. I grabbed these branches and brought them home where they are scenting the room a soft focus green white floral. Very pretty.

We then did some blog writing team work which was really interesting to smell how differently our skins make scent smell. Tina makes perfumes greener, fresher and more stark, my skin amps sweet and creaminess. Very interesting morning. We are thinking of making it a regular thing because it’s nice to read both sides.

We had a look at the new Serge Lutens 100ml bottle. It’s quite snazzy and feels great in my hand. Tina said it was a little big for left hand spritzing but right hand is cool. So Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin was my fragrance this evening. Cherry roses with a peppery zing and a creamy patchouli/honeyed backbeat.

Friday 1:

First day of spring. Walking the dogs was heavenly this morning in 17C sunshine. Wearing Penhaligon’s Ostara to greet the new season.

TRIVIA Q&A. All Day. Finished one weeks set of Q&A today.

After my bath I spritzed a new-to-me bottle of Annick Goutal Encens Flamboyant. WOWSA! What a cool and smoky incense, it even has a dusty Asian hill temple vibe. Officially blown away. Thanks MB.

Jin brought home Korean Fried Chicken with chilli and wasabi dipping sauces. It was a FEAST!

Tonight I finished a second set of Trivia Q&A, just the main body of the game, not the games and the Jackpots are all finished. Feeling like stuff is getting done.

For bed I’m wearing vintage Bal a Versailles parfum. Yep, I smell like a very luscious and expensive courtesan. YUMMY!

Saturday 2:

Woke up before the alarm. I love that blissful feeling of rising from sleep like a submarine. It’s a Neela Vermeire Creations Rahele kinda day. Its cool fresh flowers juxtapose perfectly against the spices and woods, and then all overlaid with large helpings of osmanthus. Stellar.

4.30pm still TRIVIA Q&A. I’ve been sitting at this damn desk for so long it feels like I’m growing into it. I’m getting up and taking the dogs for a wee.

Jin went to work tonight and there’s almost no food in the house so I’m getting Chinese Take Away from around the corner. As always I ordered enough for 5 people so we can have leftovers!

Was looking for Lolita Lempicka EdP to wear for me Chinese Food Run but came across Annick Goutal Grand Amour first and felt the need to spritz it instead. MMMMMMMM

Tonight I’m concentrating on getting the APJ Blog Posts finalised. Busy day tomorrow and then I only have Monday afternoon/evening to get stuff done.

Sunday 3:

It’s late. I’ve stopped functioning and have been staring at the computer for about 20 minutes without adding any content. Spritzing vintage Guerlain Mitsouko parfum and bed. Night. XX

Went for a pedi with my BFF Kath and bumped into my girlfriend Bec at the jewellery store she is managing (Currently single and ready to meet the man of her dreams. Do I have any well heeled straight male readers looking for a trophy bride with smarts?).
Yes, I bought a couple of pairs of earrings, they are so outlandish I couldn’t walk past.

Then it was Father’s Day so we went and celebrated her Dad, who is also mine via adoption. Here’s Mum Waples and I after our Creme Brûlée that jane made. we are both on a sugar high, he he he.

Work tonight at Austral Bowling Club with Anna-Maria and her family playing. Guess what? They won the $1,000 JACKPOT!

Today I wore Hermès Le Jardin de Monsieur Li. That citrus/white flower given extra zing with mint and a soft overlay of petrochemicals. Sounds awful but it is the perfect spring scent, fits the day beautifully.

 

OK, enough about me. How was your week? Do anything interesting or fun? Buy or try any new fragrances? Wear some of your faves? How about Father’s Day, did you do something special?
Please tell us all in the comments. We’re dying to know what happened for you.

Portia xx

Saturday Question: Respritz Happiness

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Portia

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Hello Fellow Fumies,

Every Saturday we have a Question, an idea purloined from Olfactoria’s Travels. Everyone gets to chime in with an answer, chat with other responders and it is a fun event each week. Taking sides never means taking offence and everyone keeps it respectful and light, even though we can sometimes trawl the depths.

The idea is you’ll see it on the weekend or chime in through the week. Hopefully you will come back and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them.

 

Saturday Question: Respritz Happiness

As you may know I have a very low level depression problem. It’s 98% of the time not even noticeable, just a quiet background hum of dis-ease or dis-quiet. After a childhood spent in therapy of one sort or another I have a few really simple coping mechanisms for the other 2% of the time. My depression is low level and though it can be sharply bleak and awful it’s usually caught at spiral stage. I’m not offering medical advice, just an insight into how my mind works.

One is cleaning. I get up and clean something, anything. It could be the kitchen bench, my bathroom mirror and vanity, grab the vacuum. Literally any cleaning. It derails my depression spiral and having done something positive and action based I’m usually back on track.

After Mum died I was finding it hard to even move off the couch or bed. The doctor said to me that if I could just get up and clean my teeth in the morning and before I went to bed at night then that would be a day not lost. Amazingly this small 2 minute moment of self care and hygiene would snap me out of my funk.

Anyway, I also discovered that spritzing perfume is also a magical depression derailer. A big old spritz of something I love or even better something new will take my mind away from the ill humours and put me onto a positively thoughtful track. It completely interrupts my sinking and helps me rise above.

Here are a couple of my favourite Respritz Happiness scents:

Liberte by Cacharel FragranticaFragrantica

Cacarel Liberté

Yeah, I talk about this one a lot. That zingy orange fizzy pop over a white musk/clean patchouli base is no great masterpiece but it does give me a joyful lift every time. I have hoarded a bunch of it for just such occasions but I also wear it when I’m happy.

Five O`Clock Au Gingembre Serge Lutens FragranticaFragrantica

Serge Lutens Five O`Clock Au Gingembre

The opening spicy ginger tea makes me smile every time. There’s something totally engulfing about it that sends my mind on the happiest of neural paths. It remains pretty through the heart and base but it’s the opening that gets me every time.

Paris-Moscow Guerlain FragranticaFragrantica

Guerlain Les Voyages Olfactifs 01 Paris-Moscow

SWEET! Zingy fruit and vanilla over a soft woodsy backdrop with a hint of white flowers. Paris-Moscow is so far removed from what I usually wear that it snaps me to attention. Very sadly I never bought a new bottle, thinking I had time, and then it was gone. Luckily I did find a partial bottle and I have some decants. Obviously I can’t spritz with abandon but there’s enough for now.

My Saturday Question to you is:

Who among you does this? Is it just me or do others among us use fragrance for more than just personal scenting? What fragrances do you use?

 

Hot House Roses for Knackered Queens

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Val the Cookie Queen

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Beloved APJ Readers!

It´s 21.30 and my APJ deadline has been and gone and I am late. I just got back from work where I have been prepping the cookies for the up-and-coming Cookie Run. That is four days of work, several hours a day. As of today I have the BlondesWunder helping me. For money, not love. It cut my work load immensely. In my last post I mentioned a new My Indigo store had opened in Innsbruck and this week another opened in Vienna. Wipes brow. That makes uhm, thirteen stores.

As I pondered this post and what to write about it made me wonder, why do y’all read APJ? Why do we read perfume blogs in general? Fun, information, humour, updates? I don´t read as many as I used to. I have my favourites and there are a couple I will not even give a click to, because I dislike them SO much. But you´ll never know which ones, hahahahaha!! I totally enjoy the English perfume blogger scene as I have got to know many of them in person, not least of all A Bottled Rose and Bonkers About Perfume. The three of us regularly chat and share our joys and worries, personal challenges and probably some tears too. I could not imagine my life without them.

tired peach rose Marisa04 pixabayPDI

It has been extremely hot here, up in the centigrade thirties. I have been wearing Serge Lutens la Filled de Berlin and Malle´s Portrait of a Lady. A lot.

Hot House Roses for Knackered Queens

La Fille de Berlin by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2013

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Rose, geranium
Heart: Palmrosa
Base: Patchouli, moss, honey

I wonder if it is a little dramatic to say that this is my very favourite of all the Lutens? Jammy, rich and smooth. Rubescent. There is a slight greenness to it, but it is rather understated. It dries down to such a musky, richly honeyed amber and lingers for hours. I have only recently started to wear it. It has been BlondesWunder´s signature for the last three years and for that reason I left it alone. I bought a 50ml bottle for her a few weeks ago, before they are sold out. But now it´s mine. As Tara says LaFdBisthebombdotcom.

Portrait of a Lady by Dominique Ropion for Frederic Malle 2010

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Turkish rose, raspberry, blackcurrant, cinnamon, clove
Heart: Patchouli, sandalwood, incense
Base: Ambrosian, benzoin, white musk

As far as I understand it this is a fairly divisive perfume? I wonder if people are wearing it in the wrong temperatures? POAL needs heat and skin and lots of both. The materials used are superb. Don´t be put off by the long list of notes. The main players are rose, patchouli, frankincense and the sticky resinous feel of maybe labdanum? Earthy, mature, and strong, it bleeds confidence. In amongst the warmth of rose and patchouli is a damp incense. Like breathing in the chill of a cement floored cellar. Melds into the skin. Very beautiful.

david austin rose sunlight WikiMediaWikiMedia

So for whatever reason you read and mingle with the APJ crew, we´re thankful for every one of you. Do you like your roses in the heat?

Knackered Bussis
CQ

(Ed: Photo credits to Val unless specified. Lovely huh?)

Scent Diary: 21.8 – 27.8.2017

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Portia

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Hey Ho APJ,

The kids are gone home and while I did not cope with having them here I do miss having them around. As always the week is full of friends and fragrance. It has felt pretty low key really but as always a million and one things to do.

Scent Diary: 21.8 – 27.8.2017

Monday 21:

Cooked home made hamburgers for all of us as brunch. Jin and the kids slept in till 10am so I got a few precious hours of peace.

We took Sindy to the doctor and the good news is that she is good to travel, ears healed perfectly.

Wearing some Agent Provocateur EdP. Those dirty roses make me smile.

Then we took the kids to Harry’s Cafe de Wheels in Parramatta where they were DISGUSTED at how we serve and eat pies. Potato yes but mushy peas and gravy, BLEAUGH! I’m with them. Give me pie, potato and sauce please.

Went for farewell Korean BarBQ with the kids, Jin, Kath, Alice and Rose. Perfect farewell except after we ate I was being a dickhead and skipping with Daniel when my foot landed on some broken pavement and went over badly. GAK! It’s all wrapped in bandage and Dencorub (heat balm) right now.

Tuesday 22:

2.30am and all the trivia Q&A is done and sent. I didn’t think I was going to get it done before falling asleep. This is a big win for tonight.

Spritzing old export bottle of Serge Lutens Feminite du Bois. So much more ginger than the modern one, and a little darker.

Today I basically slept and recuperated before work.

Wore more Serge Lutens Feminite du Bois to work but no one noticed.

Wednesday 23:

My foot hurts. Diptyque 34 Boulevard Saint Germain today. It’s sunshiny but cool weather and I think 34 BSG a perfect counterpoint.

Wore more of it to have dinner with Wendy and play some Turbo Trivia with April Fools up at Greystanes Hotel.

Thursday 24:

My foot still hurts but I was able to walk the dogs 4 blocks up and back down the street. It was slow but it felt a lot easier than yesterday. The dogs couldn’t believe how much time they got to sniff everything and were extremely grateful, looking to see if I was OK with them smelling a lamp post for 20 seconds. Though the walk was less km long they both came home completely bushed and went straight to sleep.

Funeral today for the Dad of one of my school years girlfriends. We were partnered for two or three of the middle teen years and I was constantly at their house. It was a Mecca for a small crew of us and I think we will all be there today. So glad to see them but sad for the occasion. I thought Jacomo Silences would be the perfect funeral scent.
Beautiful church service, the readings were particularly well done. Sat in the pew with the crew and got to see most of the family and friends. It was as good as a funeral gets.

Evan came over to sniff fragrances after that. My initial idea was to take him though the DIOR back catalogue. We did those and moved onto other stuff. It was totally fun. He’s good company.

Work was BUSY! So rowdy. We had a ball. Now I’m shattered.

Double spritz of Guerlain Mitsouko EdT and bed. night.

Friday 25:

It was supposed to be a day of lunching and sniffing with Tim, Kerri and Michael then off to see the Archibald with Mark but I wasn’t sure my ankle would make it through the day and I don’t want to hurt it again with only a week and a bit till India. So I stayed home and blogged the whole day away. Got 5 posts done! AMAZING!

Jin came home and we went out for Syrian dinner. Kebabs, hummus, garlic sauce, chips and tabouli. It was really yummy and Jin paid, which is always nice. I took him for Messina Ice Cream to say thanks. Poor bastard was up at 3.15am this morning so he hit the hay at 8.30pm.

Walking the dogs was a step;car pleasure tonight. We had to go slowly because of my foot but it mean we could really drink in the scents of night blooming jasmine. The area is swarming with vines over front and side fences and every time I walked past a gust of indolic jasmine would roll over us. Heavenly.

Doused in a sample of Fig Tree by Sonoma Scent Studio tonight. EXCELLENT Fig.

Yin And Ylang Sonoma Scent Studio Fragrantica

Saturday 26:

My ankle is starting to feel better. The swelling has decreased quite a bit and I’m walking without strapping. I think another few days and I’ll be happily back in heels and running around like a mad woman again. PHEW!

It’s BFF Kath & my BIL Mark’s birthday so we are going around to Mum & Dads for afternoon tea. I grabbed a Wild Berry Baked Cheesecake to take around and it was a hit. We all had great fun but I forgot to take a photo, SORRY! Loads of laughs and fun.

Wore Eau d’Italie Morn to Dusk and it’s crunchy vanilla caramel was a perfect mixer.

Our long time buddy Glen is going home to Canada to help care for his Mum who is in early stages of Alzheimers. We will miss him terribly. Tonight we all went for a farewell dinner because we can’t make it to his grand farewell party. It was a lovely, bittersweet evening. Kath, Jin and I went along with Glen to the Balkan and the food was fantastic, as always.

Sunday 27:

Woke up and spritzed Atelier Cologne Tobacco Nuit. Perfect lazy Sunday fragrance, even though my day will not be lazy.

Brunch with some of the girls I grew up with. Bec was my girlfriend for a couple of years, Catriona and her younger sibling were constant mates and we’d all wag school together, Eve you see here regularly. It was Din Tai Fung and catch ups. Conversations across a plethora of topics and a bunch of laughs. How lucky I am. Life would be so much less rich without all these beautiful friends. Really diverse lives lived across the globe so thoughtfully and interestingly yet we come back together and chatter like magpies. It’s as if no time has passed.

Work tonight. Hopefully my leg will be well enough next Tuesday to get back in my high heels, I miss dressing up.

Tonight I wore Aftelier Parfum de Maroc. Spicy swirls around saffron and rose over quite an animalic base. It smells like the dreams of souks.

 

What about you? How was your week? Do anything interesting, fun or fragrant? Tell us in the comments. We love to read your stuff too.

Portia x