Mohur: When I Want To Feel Majestic

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Portia

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Heya Fumies.

You may notice I talk about Neela Vermeire quite a bit, and her perfumes Neela Vermeire Creations. There are two reasons for that. First and foremost I think the fragrances themselves are exquisite. There is something next level about them. I know how much love, drama and time goes into every drop that gets spritzed by perfumistas the world over. Not merely perfumes but labours of love. Bertrand Duchaufour has repeatedly said that Neela is his most exacting client. She has an idea in her head of what perfection is and follows that dream.

The second reason is because she has become, over the years APJ has been going, a friend. The reason I know how much time and heartache go into the perfumes is because we chat regularly and I hear some of the drama that you all never see. Perfectionism is a cross, striving to create reality from dreams is bloody hard work.

The problem though with blogs is there is so much stuff that’s new/wants to be shared/needs to be chatted about that the things that have really given us enormous pleasure get brushed aside in search of the immediate workload. So today I wanted to remind you all of a fragrance that can take me on journeys in my mind while lying on the couch, working, cleaning, walking through the sunlit streets, shopping, dining or anything else we manage to do in the day.

Mohur: When I Want To Feel Majestic

Mohur by Bertrand Duchaufour for Neela Vermeire Creations 2011

Mohur Neela Vermeire Creations FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Ambrette seed, Elemi resin, Cardamom, Carrot seed, Coriander seed, Black pepper
Heart: Hawthorn, Iris, Jasmine, Leather, Almond milk, Moroccan rose, Turkish rose, Violet
Base: Amber, Benzoin, Blond woods, Oud, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Tonka bean, Vanilla

The scent? Roses with spices and resins to jazz the jazziest to the top of the tree. Sweet, jammy roses that also wend through dry tea, sharp pepper, slightly boozy and creamy rich overblown cabbage roses. There is the snap of green twigs, a little grassy and the cool aloofness of carroty iris, leather, woods and smooth as glass resins. Add drops of bakery vanilla and barnyard oud, sweet sandalwood melds with milky almonds.

The day you wear it decides what will be the major backing players and every wear is its own special ride. The only think that’s guaranteed is roses, roses and more luscious roses. How they come is everytime different. The enormous amount of expensive roses in this bottle make it fir for this queen.

I can’t think of a better way to smell all day. Whether you are lazing in the sun or doing the chores, isn’t it nice to smell like you own the known world.

LuckyScent has $235/60ml
Neela Vermeire Creations has €125/2 x 15ml with European Shipping Included
Surrender To Chance has samples from $7/0.5ml

What do you wear to feel majestic?
Portia xx

 

Cookie Queen & Blondeswunder in London 2017

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Blondeswunder
Val the Cookie queen
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Hey APJ Family, Happy Tuesday!

As soon as Mummy and I landed in Brexit we met up with the lovely and good friend Tara. She whisked us straight to Brick Lane
for some Indian food. I had aubergine drenched in some kind of spices sauce. It was sooooo good that I asked how they prepared
the aubergine. Turns out they freaking deep fried it twice. THAT´S WHY! Hahahaha.

Of course we were sniffing and sharing our thoughts over dinner because Indian cuisine isn´t fragrant enough alone. 🙂

Cookie Queen & Blondeswunder in London 2017

The next day, after two cups of English tea and countless visits to various loos along the way, we finally made it to the Frederic Malle store. I was very pleased to see a handsome, well put together young male SA, Pawel. Sadly for me he has an Italian boyfriend. Should have known! We got to smell and spritz perfume all over our bodies. I couldn´t chose so just went with Carnal Flower, Dries Van Noten, Eau de Magnolia, and Malle`s newest, Superstitious.

 

Of course when I had no more skin space I discovered Lipstick Rose. OH MY GOOOSH. So good. So soft. So me. Pawel was nice enough to give me a 3.5ml sample bottle to try it properly. Tara, Mummy and I were ready to kill with our sillage as we left for our pre-booked tour of Highgate Cemetery. We ended the day in Camden Market eating street food and chips.

The Thursday saw us meeting a close family friend of ours, Kirk, The Softboy Scentmaster. (My mum pulled him down the rabbit hole a couple of years ago.) Somehow our plans got changed and Mother dragged us back into the Malle store. I grabbed four spritzes of Dries Van Noten and covered my hair in the Carnal Flower hair mist. (Which I need in my life!) We then proceeded to the Gielgud Theatre just off Piccadilly, to see The Curious Incident of the Dog in the Nightime. It was absolutely brilliant. (We kept smelling each others necks and arms, and getting looks from the people around us. I mean, haven´t they ever seen people smelling each other every two seconds in public?)

 

Early evening we got to meet up with The Candy Perfume Boy and his lovely husband, on the bank of the Thames outside the Tate Modern.

Even though I am 22 and my Mother occasionally drives me nuts (mostly because I seem to be turning into her) we had the best time in London. And I was so happy to see Tara again, she is one of the strongest women I know, and I so look up to her and what she has achieved. How great it is to find such friends and peace and joy in perfume.

What are your FM favourites? DO you like perfume to be private or do you like letting people know?

Hugs
Blondeswunder

PS. Mother here – What can I add? I bought 10mls each of Dries Van Noten and Une Rose. I came home with big decants
of La Pausa 28, OJ Champaca, and Goutal´s Songes EdT and a Papillon´s Dryad sample. A non-perfumista friend went crazy for Outrageous! I missed Vanessa from Bonkers being able to join us, but shit happens. I feel blessed to have a daughter that actually wants to go away with me for a few days, she lights up my life with her humour and sunny character. CQ xxx

 

(Ed: Thanks for the photos Val and Hannah. Love them all)

Saturday Question: What Is Your Favourite Fragrance House?

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Portia

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Hello Fellow Fumies,

I have had an idea. Well, actually I’m copying an idea from Olfactoria’s Travels. Once a week there used to be a Question. Everyone would chime in with an answer, chat with other responders and it would be a generally fun events each week. Taking sides never meant taking offence and everyone kept it respectful and light.

I’d like to carry on that tradition, maybe you’ll see it on the weekend or chime in through the week. Hopefully you will come back and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them.

If we get over 150 responses I will draw a $20 Surrender To Chance Gift Card. Every comment will get a place in the draw, so if you comment purposefully on your own or another comment you’ll have a chance, random.org will draw the winner on Friday and the winner will be announced in next Saturdays question.

Last Weeks Winner: hajusuuri

Send me an eMail to portia _ turbo at yahoo dawt com dawt au

Saturday Question:

What Is Your Favourite Fragrance House?

Definition of Fragrance House today is pretty simple. Any brand, independent, designer, niche, artisanal that makes fragrance for personal scenting. You might like to talk about your favourite multinational designer house or your round the corner independent perfumer. No judgement on your choice, everything is grist for our APJ Saturday Question Mill.

Also, we are asking the question for today. Right now. this is not an enduring answer that we will hold you to in future. Don’t think too heavily about it but do please have some reasons why.

My answer:
OK, so the houses I have the most full bottles from are Guerlain and CHANEL, followed closely by Serge Lutens, DIOR, Patou, Amouage and Rochas. The thing is though, the question is What Is My Favourite Fragrance House and I think the answer this week, subject to change on a whim, is DSH Perfumes.

DSH PerfumesDawn Spencer Hurwitz makes such an enormous range of scents from the sharpest green to the densest orientals. Her deft hand in creating luminous scents with ingredients that many independent perfumers make dull quagmires of dreck with is astonishing. Across the most enormous range of styles and hefts my personal experience of DSH Perfumes has been excellent.

Somehow DSH Perfumes fit my personal smell and add to it beautifully. Though not ALL the range is perfect the ratio of hit to miss is astounding. She is fearless and unafraid of risk, does not make to a room full of test dummies but creates beauty for beauties sake.

So my question to you is

What Is Your Favourite Fragrance House?

Citron d`Erable by Atelier Cologne 2016

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Portia

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Hi there APJ,

On Google translate the meaning of Citron d`Erable is Lemon of Maple, whatever that means. It is not, as I originally heard it, Citron Terrible. OOOPSIE! Citron d’Erable is sold as a Limited Edition among the Atelier Cologne Collection Azur and comes in a darker than azure bottle. I like the simplicity of the Atelier flasks, they are very cool and slightly nerdy/hipster. When I see them in the coloured glass I think of the person who has a single bottle of fragrance at any one time. In my imagination that fragrance bottle probably sits on a bathroom counter or bedroom bureau and adds a feeling of industrial intimacy in an often minimalist environment. That splash of interesting, flamboyance even, in a stark and modern taste void.

Citron d`Erable by Atelier Cologne 2016

Citron d`Erable Atelier Cologne FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Maple syrup, Calabrian bergamot, Sicilian mandarin
Heart: Chinese sichuan pepper, Eucalyptus, French blackcurrant
Base: Maple wood, Cedarwood, Sequoia

This fragrance was originally produced in 2016 for Canadian Sephora exclusively. It seems that it made the cut to the range but could still be a Limited Edition. It’s only just landed in Australia so I’m pretty excited to have a sample that the Libertine Parfumerie crew sent me. Thanks guys.

Citron d’Erable opens with a startling citrus, so strong and fizzy. I spritzed on my chest and even from there I was surprised by the enormity of it and wondered if I may have overspritzed. Luckily within a few seconds the screech had subsided and a luscious citrus, like a multi citrus juice or freshly cut oranges, limes, lemons, mandarines or grapefruit came through. It’s delightful and warmed through by the maple syrup slowly over the next 10 minutes.

Citron d`Erable Atelier Cologne Maple MaxPixelPDI

The citrus doesn’t leave though, it stays and becomes sweetened by blackcurrant. Bittersweetened actually. It provides interesting counterpoint to the citrus & maple. That’s kind of where Citron d’Erable stays on my skin. It wafts around for quite a while only getting slightly drier and woodsier towards dry down.

If you are a fruity fragrance fan this will definitely be your jam. You like the Escada frags? This is a posh version of their screech. I’m thinking it might lure some who are not so impressed by the genre as well. It feels like an expensively created shimmery fruit fragrance.

Citron d`Erable Atelier Cologne Blackcurrant Pezibear PixabayPDI

Further reading: Colognoisseur
Libertine Parfumerie has $199/100ml with FREE Australian Shipping

How does a warm citrus for cooler weather sound to you?
Portia xx

Chanel Pour Monsieur by Henri Robert for CHANEL 1955

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Greg Young

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Hello APJers,

Released in 1955 Chanel Pour Monsieur is the venerable grand-daddy of Chanel’s line of male fragrances. I was lucky enough to find some vintage bottles of this gem.

Chanel Pour Monsieur by CHANEL 1955

Chanel Pour Monsieur by Henri Robert

Pour Monsieur Chanel FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, Verbena, Neroli, Orange
Heart: Cardamom, Coriander, Basil, Ginger
Base: Oakmoss, Vetiver, Cedarwood

The three bottles here are a large splash bottle of vintage Pour Monsieur EdT, a bottle of Pour Monsieur After Shave, and a large splash bottle labelled A Gentleman’s Cologne. Pour Monsieur was marketed to the English-speaking world as A Gentleman’s Cologne during the 60s, so this is probably the same fragrance, despite the clear colour difference.

I took these bottles into the Chadstone Chanel store, and the staff there told me that they had never seen PM in those bottles, and did not think that it had ever been sold in Australia in those forms. We did some sniff tests on cards, comparing to the latest EdT. Only the after shave held up; the splash bottles had a bit of a plonky smell, suggesting that both had turned.

I decided to take one for the team, and decanted each of them into atomisers for some skin testing. I often find that, like with vintage wine, decanting old perfume can liven it up a bit.

The AGC is most likely the oldest of the three. The bottle is a different shape and has a different spout and cap to the PM bottle. My best dating puts this at 1962-1969, so it is about 50 years old. The colour looks fine, but the real test is the smell. From the first spray, this one is dominated by cardamom, with a touch of ginger. It sticks very close to the skin, and has almost no sillage. After an hour or so, the cedar has taken over, with a bit of oakmoss. I can’t make out any florals or vetiver. It is still there 5 hours later, so not too bad. As a woody aromatic, this AGC still stands up although it is clearly only a shadow of its former self.

The PM EdT probably dates to either 1985 or 1993, going by the batch code. The years have not been kind to this one, as the dark brown colour attests. On skin, it goes straight to the base notes of cedar and vetiver, and all but disappeared within a couple of hours.

The After Shave is in better shape than the other two. Some of the top notes are still present, notably petitgrain. It softens quickly though and, again, sticks very close to the skin. It’s a bit linear, and doesn’t develop the spices and woods that should be present before it disappears. Presumably this is due to the lighter concentration; perhaps more copious spraying might turn this one into a winner.

This was an interesting experiment. It was almost like being able to separate out the layers of a classic fragrance and smell them concurrently: the aftershave giving the top notes, the Cologne the middle notes and the EdT the base notes. Unfortunately, none of these three delivers as a standalone fragrance, and each is probably only good for collecting rather than wearing. It did make me keen to go full bottle on some Chanel Pour Monsieur though, if I can find a vintage bottle in better shape than these three.

(My thanks to Ali at Chanel Chadstone for her help).

See you soon,
Greg

(ED: This piece was first run on Greg’s new blog AusScents. Please zip over and have a squiz.)

Forever Now (Gucci Museo) by Lorenzo Villoresi for Gucci 2013

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TinaG

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Hi APJ!

Another place I had fun on our USA holiday was the Gucci outlet store in Desert Hills. They had the Diamond Editions of Gucci Guilty, along with some really fab travel sprays of Gucci by Gucci Sport and Guuci Made to Measure. These travel sprays felt light but robust and had a rubberised coating for a firm grip. Great for the gym, but unfortunately not refillable.

The perfume which caught my eye of course was on the top shelf out of reach so I had two assistants helping me with a ladder to get it down. This was “Forever Now” – Gucci Museo, released in 2013 as a tribute to the Gucci Museum in Florence. The museum itself seems to be temporarily closed so don’t get too excited if you’re in the area. I tried some on skin as I walked away from what could have been an expensive US$200 impulse buy.

Forever Now (Gucci Museo) by Gucci 2013

Forever Now (Gucci Museo) by Lorenzo Villoresi

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, mandarin, lavender, black pepper, orange blossom
Heart: Leather, florals, Florentine iris, Morroccan and Bulgarian rose, jasmine from Grasse, ylang-ylang, nutmeg
Base: Vetiver, patchouli, precious woods, amber, musk

Out in the foothills of the desert with a dry and dusty warm wind, Gucci Museo opened with a smooth black pepper and a clean leather, having touches of amber behind it. It didn’t strike me as overly masculine, it was soft and well balanced. A subtle ylang ylang came through on my sun-struck skin over the next half hour, and honestly that is about as far as I got with it as we got swept up with making the most of our shopping time. So, sorry, that’s it for my review but I liked what I got out of it in the first hour and it would have been a purchase I’d have been happy with – if my funds stretched that far at that time…..

Further reading: Sorcery of Scent
Feeling Sexy Australia has $229/100ml with FREE Australian Delivery

Which is your favourite Gucci scent?
TinaG

(Ed: TinaG photos unless otherwise noted. Thanks XXX)

Gucci Guilty Absolute by Alberto Morillas for Gucci 2017

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Portia

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Hey there Designer Frag Fiends,

Normally a 21st century message about a Gucci flanker would draw single eyebrow raised type archness from the grand perfumista community. Stick of shocks the word on the scentbloggosphere is that this newly released creature is Da Bomb! Even noses I’ve revered forever are calling this a return to Tom Ford time form for Gucci. High praise.

I did try it in the Duty Free area on our latest jaunt and found it nice enough. What I didn’t realise was that when I was buying some stuff in Luxembourg the SA had given me a sample to take home. YIPPEE!

One thing I have noticed is that this is an incredibly well priced fragrance. Kudos to the creative director at Gucci, Alessandro Michele, for keeping it so affordable. The scent is Coty group, does anyone know if they have the whole Gucci line under lock & key or is this new?

Gucci Guilty Absolute by Gucci 2017

Gucci Guilty Absolute by Alberto Morillas

Gucci Guilty Absolute Gucci FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Woodleather®, Goldenwood®, Nootka cypress, Patchouli, Vetiver

Woodsiness, a little bit sharp like pine. Behind the crisp new planks of wood it’s smoky and dry. Very niche smelling and the leather is expensive clothing leather, finished and new. Though Gucci Guilty Absolute is fragrant there is a modern sheerness that reminds me of the way a Jean Claude Ellena Hermessence would smell if he chose to do this style. There’s something spare and unearthly about the treatment of woods and leather here.

During the heart I also get metallic and oily hints, like old, well used machinery running but not working. Also sawdust, you know how mixed wood sawdust has a dry and dusty wood smell? Like that.

Gucci

When the patchouli arrives it is waxy and clean, a very nice background noise that adds a smoothness to Gucci Guilty Absolute.

I bet this is a major hit for Gucci. Everyone could wear it, easy to wear, smells expensive and refined. I can imagine school kids, office workers, ladies who lunch and gym bodies all spritzing and wearing Gucci Guilty Absolute beautifully.

Further reading: Persolaise and Brooklyn Fragrance Lover
Gucci Australia has $108/50ml

What was the last Gucci scent you liked or bought?
Portia xx