Clandestine Clara by Sophie Labbé for Penhaligon`s 2017




Hey Hey Lovers Of NEW!

Another from the Libertine Parfumerie Pack. There’s been loads of chatter around the Portraits collection with its wildly provocative storyline including fortune, scandal, infidelity and homosexuality. Woo Hoo! Jackpot! Loving the fun Penhaligon’s seems to be having under the Puig banner. Not so sure about the heavy animal lids which would be Ouchie WaWa dropped on unshod morning feet and do definite damage to tile if dropped from hand height in the bathroom and mark wooden floorboards elsewhere. The idea is good though, if only they were bakelite or if they offered an animal free lid. Anyway, they have two new additions to the family Roaring Radcliff (a spiced run & tobacco scent) and Clandestine Clara.

Clandestine Clara by Penhaligon`s 2017

Clandestine Clara by Sophie Labbé

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top:  Rum, Vanilla
Heart: Cinnamon, Musk
Base: Amber notes, Patchouli

Boozy vanilla, spicy and wet. The opening smells like uncooked biscuit mix that you lick off the beaters and spatula. Much more interesting than the original four Portraits collection with that unusual Play-Doh vanilla/patchouli from Jacomo Art Collection #2 with the yellow lid and L’Artisan’s Dzing!. I love it there and here, so unexpected and funky.

Once the parts have come together the heart stays fairly linear. Not a problem, I am enjoying this spicy patchouli and vanilla/amber melange. It’s quite different when I put my nose to my wrist and when I have it at arms length, close up Clandestine Clara is all about this salted plastic patchouli but further away it’s much more about the boozy vanilla. Oh, I do like this a lot.

Thinking about who would wear Clandestine Clara and in my mind it skews quite boyish, yes even though I don’t believe in such things. So I can easily imagine it being a unisex creation. Maybe because I’ve worn Jacomo Art Collection #2 for years and often to art stuff as it’s a bit of an out of the square scent I find myself imagining a very cool couple wearing this. Maybe as their weekend couple scent and brunching, then wandering galleries, meeting friends and meandering through springtime cities in utter comfort together.

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy
Libertine has
LuckyScent has $240/75ml + Samples

What do you think of the lids? Does Clandestine Clara tickle your fancy?
Portia xx

Cologne Du 68 by Sophie Labbe for Guerlain 2006


Post by Robert Herrmann



Cologne Du 68 by Guerlain 2006

If you love Guerlain, but have overlooked this beauty, do yourself a favor and think again.

(ED: Azar is currently off taking some care of herself, back soon. Robert kindly offered to fill for her today. Thanks buddy xx)

Cologne Du 68 by Guerlain 2006

Cologne Du 68 by Sophie Labbe

Eau de Cologne du 68 Guerlain FragranticaFragrantica

68 notes as per Guerlain…….(You might want to sit down for this……phew!)

1. bergamot, 2. green mandarine, 3. lemon,4. clementine, 5. citron, 6. Blood orange, 7. Lime, 8. grapefruit leaves, 9. basil, 10. fennel, 11. star anise, 12. lavender, 13. laurel, 14.cypress, 15.elemi, 16. thyme, 17.myrtle, blossom leaf,19.mandarin blossom leaf, 20. lemon blossom leaf, 2. Pear, 22. Violet leaf, 23. ivy, 24.violet,, 26. cassis, 27. freesia, 28. lily of the valley, 29. hazel leaf, 30. cyclamen, 31.cardamon, 32. coriander, 33. black pepper, 34. bay rose, 35. muscat, 36. gingerbread, 37. jasmine, 38. frangipani, 39. magnolia, 40. orange-blossoms, 41.peony, 42. rose, 43. carnation, 44. ylang, 45. lychee,46. fig, 47. mure 48. immortelle, 49.Pistachio leaf, 50. opoponax, 5. amber, 52.benzoin, 53. vanilla, 54. rock rose, 55. heliotrope, 56. iris, 57. tonka, 58. sage, 59. musk, 60. patchoulì, 6. oud, 62.cedar,63. sandalwood, 64. vetiver, 65. green notes, 66.praline, 67. myrrh, 68. Lichen

Why this one doesn’t get much love from either men or women, is a mystery to me.

Every scent of every Guerlain ever made, all jumbled up into an EDT that works really really well. Especially in these ever-changing days of spring.

Eau de Cologne du 68 Guerlain Sexy Shirtless

Light, bright and citrus-zesty at the top as you would expect, with a big floral middle, but not sweet. A bitter herbaceous edge keeps the floral notes in check. For me a slight root beer vibe, which is just lovely.

This may very well become one of my top Guerlains, I can see wearing this ALL the time.
Totally unisex, totally captivating, like an herbal love child of LhB and LHdLN.

From Guerlain: Cologne du 68 is directly inspired by Corsican landscapes: between the salty freshness of the seaside and the spicy warmth of the scrubland. At the heart of this fragrance shines everlasting flower and its incredible slightly syrupy scent. Between wood and resin, we also find honeyed yet salty dashes of fenugreek and anise aromas.

And did I mention reasonable? Well under $100, usually in the $50-$70 range for 100 ml.

Eau de Cologne du 68 Guerlain Sexy Shirtless couch

Further reading: What Men Should Smell Like and Olfactoria’s Travels
FragranceNet has AUD$90/100ml

Absolutely full-bottle worthy!

What’s your favorite Guerlain? Have you tried this one?

Bulgari Jasmin Noir by Carlos Benaim and Sophie Labbe for BVLGARI 2008


Post by Portia


Heya APJ Family,

Since 2008 I have longed to wear this fragrance. Every now and then I give myself a spritz in the mall but it’s too busy there to contemplate fragrance and Jasmin Noir doesn’t seem to be big enough to maintain my attention when otherwise occupied. So I bought a decant, now I get to spend some time in peaceful surroundings and really test drive it. Don’t worry, my expectations are very low but sometimes you just have to scratch the itch.

Bulgari Jasmin Noir by BVLGARI 2008

Bulgari Jasmin Noir by Carlos Benaim and Sophie Labbe

Jasmin Noir Bvlgari FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Gardenia, Green plant juice
Heart: Jasmine sambac absolute, Almond
Base: Precious woods, Glycyrrhiza, Tonka bean absolute

Sheer radiant sappy floral, pretty and slightly plastic smelling that is airy and sparse. This fresh greenness never really points to one flower but smells to me like an amorphous white floral bouquet and when the jasmine arrives it feels fizzy and metallic, are there some aldehydes hidden in the mix? As far as flowers go my skin is throwing floral holograms rather than the flowers themselves, space flowers, crystal floral replicas. I am just not getting the notes I’m supposed to be smelling, except the green plant juice. Green plant juice and woods as if what I’m smelling is in a dream about standing next to a council shredder and they are putting through leafy branches of soft stemmed plants like hydrangea, tied old air conditioning and maybe some arum lilies, there is a petroleum/exhaust hint too that I would normally love. They must have used the cleanest isolates of flowers or chemical representations of them.

Jasmin Noir Bvlgari Fragrantica adPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

I wanted to like this, was ready to love it and buy one of those gorgeous bottles, but sadly on me Jasmin Noir smells bad. My skin throws some awful thing up at me that is not the way I would like to be, or imagine myself, smelling. Sorry if it’s your favourite, more power to you if it smells better on you than me.

Further reading: Now Smell This and Perfume Shrine
FragranceNet has $50/50ml before Coupon
My Perfume Samples has $7/5ml

Do you ever crave to try something even though you’re 98% sure that it’s going to be a complete failure? Does Jasmin Noir work on you? I’d love to read reports of it being fabulous.
Portia xx

N.B. If you hit the My Perfume Samples link and shop I get a kickback.