Gucci Guilty Absolute by Alberto Morillas for Gucci 2017

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Portia

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Hey there Designer Frag Fiends,

Normally a 21st century message about a Gucci flanker would draw single eyebrow raised type archness from the grand perfumista community. Stick of shocks the word on the scentbloggosphere is that this newly released creature is Da Bomb! Even noses I’ve revered forever are calling this a return to Tom Ford time form for Gucci. High praise.

I did try it in the Duty Free area on our latest jaunt and found it nice enough. What I didn’t realise was that when I was buying some stuff in Luxembourg the SA had given me a sample to take home. YIPPEE!

One thing I have noticed is that this is an incredibly well priced fragrance. Kudos to the creative director at Gucci, Alessandro Michele, for keeping it so affordable. The scent is Coty group, does anyone know if they have the whole Gucci line under lock & key or is this new?

Gucci Guilty Absolute by Gucci 2017

Gucci Guilty Absolute by Alberto Morillas

Gucci Guilty Absolute Gucci FragranticaFragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Woodleather®, Goldenwood®, Nootka cypress, Patchouli, Vetiver

Woodsiness, a little bit sharp like pine. Behind the crisp new planks of wood it’s smoky and dry. Very niche smelling and the leather is expensive clothing leather, finished and new. Though Gucci Guilty Absolute is fragrant there is a modern sheerness that reminds me of the way a Jean Claude Ellena Hermessence would smell if he chose to do this style. There’s something spare and unearthly about the treatment of woods and leather here.

During the heart I also get metallic and oily hints, like old, well used machinery running but not working. Also sawdust, you know how mixed wood sawdust has a dry and dusty wood smell? Like that.

Gucci

When the patchouli arrives it is waxy and clean, a very nice background noise that adds a smoothness to Gucci Guilty Absolute.

I bet this is a major hit for Gucci. Everyone could wear it, easy to wear, smells expensive and refined. I can imagine school kids, office workers, ladies who lunch and gym bodies all spritzing and wearing Gucci Guilty Absolute beautifully.

Further reading: Persolaise and Brooklyn Fragrance Lover
Gucci Australia has $108/50ml

What was the last Gucci scent you liked or bought?
Portia xx

Madawi by Arabian Oud

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Erica Golding

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Joyfully scented greetings to you all!

I must say, tonight I had planned to write up a different fragrance, but a special delivery landed that smashed my plans into smithereens. Are you into Arabian perfumery yet? If so, you would squee with delight over this hidden gem! If not, seek out this bottle, it will blow your mind from the inside out:

Madawi by Arabian Oud

My gorgeous goddess friend Cyndi has brought tears to my eyes with her incredible friendship, and I am so thrilled that we have bonded thanks to our shared love of scent. Because of her kickassery of sample enabling, I unboxed a presentation today that I already knew housed a scent worthy of the glitz. The packaging is totally over the top, but it dazzled me tenfold because I fell in love with this perfume in a nondescript little 5 mL hex bottle.

What does it smell like? Well, miraculous is one way to put it. Rose petals cascade into an upswell of luscious fruit nectar, precious woods, a tasteful kiss of smoothly aged patchouli, and a silky white musk haze. It is insanely balanced, a very carefully composed blend that really is effortlessly sexy. It screams evening wear, this is a date night perfume for sure – but I know I will be rocking Madawi whenever I want to feel the power of feminine intensity.

From Arabian OudA Special fragrance inspired by the character of the contemporary women, the pride of time Al Aseel including the aromatic bouquet of apple, peach, pineapple melted memories of last longing, an anchor on the base of roses and flowers, patchouli and musk, deeply feeling of real satisfaction .

Have you heard of Madawi? Have you scored any other gems from Arabian Oud, whether hidden or a cult favorite or a fragrance legend? An Arabian Oud storefront opened in New York City not too long ago, I am physically aching to go. 🙂 Have you been? Tantalize me with your tales!

Arabian Oud has $150/90ml

Talk to you all soon, hope you spritzed wisely today!

Hugs, Erica

Superstitious by Dominique Ropion for Frederic Malle 2016

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Val the Cookie Queen

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Good Day from the UK APJ Peeps!

As you read this I will probably be trundling my way towards the Frederic Malle store in Burlington Arcade with Tara from A Bottled Rose and the B.londeswunder. Originally it was planned that we would sniff Superstitious together, but that was four weeks ago. I mostly have no problem waiting to try something but every once in a while the junkie in me grabs hold and I have no control. I commented on a FB thread as to how excited I was to try Superstitious and six days later the postman turned up with a package from France with a sample in it. Nothing like a generous addict helping another one out. I believe we call it an enabler in our circle? As opposed to a pusher?

Superstitious Alber Elbaz par Frederic Malle 2017

Superstitious by Dominic Ropion

Superstitious Frederic Malle FragranticaFragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Jasmine, rose, peach, amber, incense, vetiver, patchouli, aldehydes

For some reason I keep calling this perfume suspicious, I think I need to tattoo Superstitious onto my forehead. Dunno why I can´t get a handle on it.

Malle´s first collaboration was with Dries von Noten, the Belgian fashion designer. This was back in 2013. He returns now with number two. Superstitious is an alliance with Alber Elbaz, the Moroccan-Israeli fashion designer, formerly of Lanvin. You might wanna Google him if you have a few moments. He is a really interesting character not to mention his exquisite designs. If I were rich and wore dresses …….

GOBSTOPPER SWEETS

Gobstoppers (jawbreakers) consist of a number of layers and colours, and as each layer dissolves another appears; these layers are often flavoured too. It takes hours and hours, and sometimes days to finish them.

Here we have jasmine, rose, a hint of peach, amber, incense, vetiver, and patchouli wrapped in a thick layer of waxy aldehydes. There is an underlying whisp of grapeness too, the dark purple artificially flavoured Kool-Aid kind. A 1950´s vintage fragrance presented to us in 2017. As the divine waxy aldehydes melt away, the jasmine just bursts forth indolic, with elegance and sophistication. It languishes and slowly melts down into the rich velvety foundation, yet remains intertwined with the full-bodied base notes. Lavish but with a rough edge, and particularly seductive.

It is perfect, Ropion knows it, and I doubt he cares less what anyone else has to say about it.

Further reading: Candy Perfume Boy and Perfume Posse
Frederic Malle has €50/10ml

After using the sample I promptly ordered the 10ml travel spray. My first jasmine. I hope Tara and I will find something else to sniff and whilst in the shop! A travel Dries van Noten might not hurt eh?

Suspicious Bussis
CQ

PS. It might be fair to say if waxy aldehydes and indolic jasmine sounds like death warmed up, you might wanna try something else – as did LJG.

(Ed: Pics supplied by Val the CQ unless otherwise noted)

Just Let Go: 5 Decor Worries to Abandon: Design Sponge

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Portia

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Hey APJ,

Do you ever read something that may or may not be related to anything in your life particularly and suddenly you feel as if this writer has taken an iron to the wrinkly thinking in your head and smoothed it out in one fell swoop? So that happened for me this week. I have been following, and reading, Design Sponge for years. It’s a great drop in design blog that feels so unpretentious and sensible, while still bringing me mind blowing ideas in a short burst of inspiration.

Actually, I think these guys are the ones who took me out of trying to create Belle, Vogue Living and IKEA rooms. They helped me to understand that the things in my home have to work for my very specific mindset and life. Hardly an earth shattering epiphany, and ultimately a very first world problem, but it has made decorating my space infinitely easier.

You might notice below that Jin is sleeping in our bed. I had to sneak in and get this shot while he was snoring his heart out.

It has allowed me to really think about my eclectic mix of new, old, gifted, collected & hand me down and then how I can best fit it all into a home. Especially now that I’m sharing that home with an equal contender and pets.

Sorry for the light reflections.

TBH though Jin is happy as long as he has a huge TV with as many channel choices and extras as possible, a big comfortable couch with a table of some sort in front for food, a good mattress on the bed, functioning kitchen and a compact, easy clean bathroom. He has brought a few art pieces on our travels that adorn walls and has loads of kitchen gadgets but seriously, he would be happy in a bachelor flat with bed for couch.

Jin built me the coat rack and photo rail in our hallway. Our combined family, closest friends and a couple of superstar autographs welcome you to our home. I love it so much.

This is just some of the stuff we have hanging on the walls. They date from the 1960s and my parents choices to 21st century. It’s mainly Australian but there are a Liz Zorn, Dali and Greg Spalenka from overseas, among others.

Anyway, the reason I’m telling you all this is so you can go check this piece in Design Sponge. It will take you about 5 minutes to read and could well change the way you live. Or not……

You’re welcome,
Portia xx

Just Let Go: 5 Decor Worries to Abandon: Design Sponge

Just Let Go: 5 Decor Worries to Abandon

New Study (Postcard) by Miller et Bertaux 2017

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Portia

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Hey APJ,

We have spoken before here about Miller & Bertaux. I think them a woefully underlined fragrance house that do fun and interesting scents that are edgy but wearable. I have bought bottles of A Quiet Morning, Shanti Shanti and Spiritus/Land. Woods, Incense & Balmy/Spicy/Green Woods. Because they release with little or no fanfare I have missed a few years worth of new frags.

That was rectified at the Esxence in Milan last week where Miller et Bertaux had a stand. Sadly I was so overwhelmed by Esxence as a whole I couldn’t really focus. So without being able to really stop, converse and sniff I did go and tell the man at the counter how much I loved their work. The guy was so thrilled he gave me a full set of their samples to try. YAY!! Including the newest release New Study (Postcard).

New Study (Postcard) by Miller et Bertaux 2017

Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Green orange, lemon, grapefruit, grass, white peach blossom, precious woods, fig, coconut milk, fig leaf

So whoever names these frags needs a good slap around the head, the newer names are hardly engaging. They seem like punchlines to jokes we’ll never hear. It’s a bummer.

The citrus jumps out at you right from the start. It’s lip puckeringly tart and has a sweet, pithy background which helps keep the whole fragrance grounded. It’s a smily and welcoming opening that gives me a goofy grin.

It’s not long before the citrus is joined by the coconut and fig and it’s unusual that these two additions don’t make the scent go tropical or even Mediterranean but create a coziness, a warm friendly lived-in feeling.

So I’m now looking at the name of the fragrance, Postcard. As I’m one of the last people on earth that sends postcards every holiday it’s like a lightbulb has gone on in my head. The citrus is the air mail adventure of the postcard, the war foggy-milk bit is the arrival and all the good feelings that engenders and then the dry down is a warm, woodsy/sweet-fig-milk that could be the life of a postcard on the fridge in the kitchen that gets looked at every time someone opens the fridge and brings a smile.

Yes, I’m probably full of shit but there you have it.

Libertine Parfumerie will have it in Australia when it comes in

A cozy version of fig, very nice and wearable. I could imagine it becoming a very easy go-to frag for someone who likes to have really unusual, hard to find brands but also wants to smell office appropriate.

Do you know Miller & Bertaux?
Portia xx

 

Trolling The Internet?

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Portia

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Hi there Late Night Shoppers,

I have a confession to make. Sometimes I get the urge to surf the net at ridiculous hours looking for lost fragrant loves, super new stuff, blogs and bargains. Other times I may have read a particularly good blog post, used a decant/sample that I fell madly in love with, got a bee in my bonnet and it’s like a compulsion. I can get lost in these random loops and searches for HOURS!

Sometimes if I have a day off, nothing planned and Jin is at work I can spend 10-15 hours lost in the fragrant WWW.

I have a name for these explorations….

Trolling The Internet

Trolling The Internet doesn’t mean you go around being a troll. Nope. It’s like trawling but it sounds most like trolling. It comes from 1980s GaySpeak when we’d go trolling the bars. We’d be seeing our friends, having some drinks (and drugs back then), looking for love, dancing and sometimes even working. Yeah, being Sydney’s version of a club kid was really fun.

So now I’ve just changed venues and addictions I suppose. Now it’s cups of tea/coffee, seeing mates in blogs and searching for the next fragrant buy, swap or sale.

One of the great things about Trolling The Internet is that you can do it anytime, wearing a suit or pyjamas, get your fix and then hit the hay.

How many of you die similar or same? Do you ever worry about your internet time, spending, being inside? Do you ever need to break the cycle? What do you do to sl;ow or stop these behaviours or are you totally cool?
Portia xx

Metal by Robert Gonnon for Paco Rabanne 1979

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Portia

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Hello vintage lovers,

Arriving in the post yesterday from eBay and on my skin ever since is a 30ml old, old bottle of Metal. As I opened it I thought I’d give myself a spritz and sadly the sprayer sends most of the juice down the bottle and what little comes out smells broken and nasty aldehyde turn, GRRRR. I’m going to give it a soak in white vinegar & disinfectant.

Metal by Paco Rabanne 1979

Metal by Robert Gonnon

Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Aldehydes, Basil, Green notes, Hyacinth, Lemon
Heart: Cyclamen, Iris, Jasmine, Lily-of-the-valley, Rose, Tuberose, Ylang-ylang
Base: Ambergris, Oakmoss, Musk, Sandalwood, Vetiver

Chypre! Metal is a chypre. The opening is all about galbanum and some citrus fizzed up by aldehydes. I thought my bottle had turned but a few spritzes without the dodgy atomiser and the scent smells pure, clean and fresh, while also not smelling of any of that because chypre. I am thoroughly surprised at how gorgeously it’s kept.

After only a few moments I can already smell the oakmoss furriness that chypres give me. It’s a cool comfort and it makes me feel safe and invincible. If CHANEL No 19 gives you backbone then Metal will give you armour and weaponry.

Wikipedia

Funnily I don’t really smell metal, no, that’s not exactly true….. maybe the smell of sharpening a Wiltshire knife in it’s plastic casing. The floral bouquet is a beautiful whole and I can’t pick any of the notes because underpinning the heart is this luscious oakmoss with hints of oily vetiver and a touch of salty brine that I’m attributing to the ambergris and vetiver.

Longevity is good and the baseline lasts hours. It hums away quietly in the background but if I change rooms suddenly I can smell it all over again. Fabulous.

Further reading: I Smell Therefore I Am and Black Narcissus

Do you love the chypre genre?
Portia xx