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Post by Azar
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Hello Frag Junkies!
Have you ever encountered a scent that you like (maybe even love) one day and then can’t abide the next? Recently I had that experience with Auphorie’s Miyako, one of the winning fragrances in this year’s Art and Olfaction Awards Artisan Perfumer category.
Miyako Extrait by Auphorie 2015
Miyako Extrait by Eugene and Emrys Au
The Power of the Peach III – Jekyll and Hyde
Fragrantica Gives these featured accords:
Top: Apricot, yuzu, peach
Heart: Osmanthus, jasmine, green tea, leather
Base: Hinoki wood, cedar, sandalwood, patchouli, musk, katsura leaf
YUM! It is easy to imagine the power of this peach!
In late March, after reading a couple of complimentary reviews, I purchased a sample of Miyako Extrait and fell in love at first sniff. The heavy richness of peach and sweetness of osmanthus (reminiscent of Olympic Orchids Red Cattleya) were brightened and lifted by the dry, airy elements of an astringent yuzu and a perfect green tea (not the screechy kind). This rather unique take on peach developed into warm, woodsy leather, integrated with the continued presence of osmanthus. As time went by Miyako opened up as a glowing floral, eventually settling into comforting, amber-y sandalwood. The beautiful experience lasted about five hours, the last three as skin scent. My initial sampling of Miyako Extrait convinced me that here was a fragrance worthy of the time it takes to write up a post. As you can see, I’m still writing, but with trepidation…
My next encounter with Miyako was not so pleasant. Two weeks after the first spritz I sampled the extrait again. Instead of being transported to a garden of earthly delights, I found myself opening a nasty closet in an old, smoky motel room; a closet that had not been cleaned or even aired for many years in a room redolent of mildew, old leather, dust and ineffectual fruity/floral room freshener. What ever happened to my lovely Miyako?
The weekend after this experience I was visiting a couple of friends who just happened to have their own sample of Miyako. That day we all experienced the smell of nasty motel room. Previous to this my friends had been in love with their sample too. But the story doesn’t end with a stink.
Yesterday one of the friends joined us, at our home, for dinner and a distillation. After the fun we decided to sample Miyako once again. We were surprised and pleased to find that the perfume (my sample this time) was once again a beauty.
So…what’s going on here? I’ve pretty much ruled out body chemistry as the cause, as three different bodies had similar good and bad experiences. The only explanation that comes to mind has to do with atmospheric pressure, humidity and/or temperature. Last night I loved Miyako but who knows what tomorrow will bring?
Further reading: Perfumes I Love and Colognoisseur
Scent Trunk has $90/30ml
Have you ever smelled a perfume that exhibited such a blatant split personality disorder? Do you have any idea what explains this Jekyll and Hyde effect? Have you tried Miyako?
Azar xx
Australian Perfume Junkies 
I have stopped trying to figure out olfaction, but have had a similar experience that seems to be related to temperature. CB I Hate Perfume’s Seven Billion Hearts is a deep, dark vanilla beauty in cold weather, but let the temp rise a few degrees and it turns hostile and screechy, raking cedary little fingernails across my skin until I scrub it off. Some ambers seem to be quite variable too, smelling warm and cuddly at one wearing and unpleasantly petrolated the next time, although I can’t detect any pattern of temp, atmospheric pressure, etc that might account for the change.
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FeralJasmine!
OOOooo..Seven Billion Hearts “raking cedary little fingernails across my skin” is so horrifyingly descriptive! You’ve got me wondering if every fragrance shows its true nature when the temperatures rise?
Azar xx
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Welcome back Azar!! Good to “see” you again. 🙂 This sounds very intriguing as that is VERY Jekyll and Hyde! I don’t think I’ve ever experience anything that changed that much. When I wear Guerlain’s Ne M’Oubliez Pas, I find that some days I don’t get any cumin and other days I get very heavy cumin – but the rest of the perfume remains unchanged. Have you tried that one?
I’ve never tried Miyako, but my curiosity is piqued by it’s winning status and your interesting review. Thanks for your thoughts, Azar!
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Good to “see” you too, Sun Mi! 🙂
Will you be visiting the PNW again one of these days? If you do, be advised that this summer may be even hotter than last. It was 95F here yesterday, enough to change any perfume into a monster.
No, I haven’t tried Ne M’Oubliez Pas but I like cumin, even when it is very heavy.
Thanks for dropping by!
Azar xx
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Hehe, I *am* coming back for a couple of weekends to celebrate a friend’s wedding and visit the parents. I shall pack appropriately for this insane heat – though to be fair, without the humidity that we have here, it will probably still feel cool. 🙂
Also, I have a sample of Ne M’Oubliez Pas I can send you if you’d like?? Let me know!!
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Thank you , Sun Mi! I will be in touch.
Azar xxx
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Hi Azar!
Gosh, I don’t think I’ve had that experience! However, I recall sniffing osmanthus absolute and having wildly varying responses to it ranging from “peachy” to “mildew”.
My only comparable experience is with animalics. My nose almost never detects them up close, so I may be sniffing something from my arm and think it’s lovely, only to wonder later if I stepped in something outside. If I then sniff it on skin, no poop there! I’ve wondered if other people are cringing as I pass by, but I’ve come to the conclusion that I’m not gonna concern myself with that.;)
Holly xo
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Hi Holly,
Yes! It was mildew! Now, from your comment, I’m thinking it might have been the osmanthus that turned Miyako into a musty motel room.
You are right not to concern yourself with the possibility of others cringing. It’s hard enough to keep up with our own reactions to these things!
Azar xx
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Hey Azar,
YAY! You’re back. We’ve missed you.
I have a few shapeshifter frags but can’t for the life of me bring one to mind.
Portia xx
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Hi Portia,
YAY! “Back in the saddle again” and having fun. Great to “see” everyone, as Sun Mi says.
Azar xx
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Hi Azar,
I am so glad that you reviewed this. I have been curious about Miyako for a couple of weeks because I love osmanthus so much. The Jekyll and Hyde Effect happens for me when the temperatures rise and sometimes The effect is exactly what I need and crave.
Sandra xo
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Sandra,
I agree that temperature may just be what triggers the changes in Miyako. I think I need to do a more serious test to find which temperatures bring out the effects I like the best. Have you ever had the mildew effect like Holly has experienced with osmanthus?
Azar xx
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I think I had this experience with Grey Flannel. Everytime I tried it, that bitter violet opening threw me off. It took years before I mustered the courage to spray and once the perfume evolved, I found what is so special about it. Now it is almost always one of the top 2-3 that comes to mind whenever someone asks me about my favorite budget fragrances. The latest formula I tried was 3-4 years ago and it was still amazing. Don’t know about now but until few years ago, the reformulation job was done pretty well.
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Hello Fazal!
I love galbanum and Grey Flannel seems to be full of it! Is that true for you? I could wait out all the bitter violet in the opening just for a good dose of galbanum. Do you find that Grey Flannel is predictable or does it ever surprise you?
Azar xx
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I think Grey Flannel has that surprise element that it never seems familiar. Everytime you wear it, it smells one-of-a-kind and something new. Another perfume that surprises me everytime I smell it is vintage Eau Sauvage. A citrus fragrance usually smells so familiar yet Eau Sauvage is so distinct!
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I’ve had this experience with some perfumes too. One day I love them and then another, oh hell no. I do think that weather and also hormones affect my sniffer because I know that at certain times of the month lavender smells fabulous to me and on others it smells like onions. That’s just one example. From that observation I’ve learned to never judge a perfume on the first wearing because in a week it might be entirely different.
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Hi Poodle,
It does seem that all aspects of weather contribute to how a fragrance performs. Regarding hormones: I’m not a good judge of their effects on fragrances, or anything else for that matter. Many of mine have stopped raging a long time ago 😉 Even so, sometimes even a week isn’t long enough to really judge a perfume! If you have a moment check out my recent, somewhat related post on PerfumeNW http://perfumenw.blogspot.com/2016/06/flash-piece-or-flash-in-pan.html
Azar xx
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I have a sample of this on the way and was feeling just casual about it until I read your review. I’m desperately curious now to know how it will behave for me! Normally I love osmanthus and am generally fine with leather. Tea is a slight worry – that can turn a bit sour. Anyway, it’s exciting!
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Hi Anne Marie,
I would love to know what you think of Miyako and if it changes on you too. Perhaps a post? My biggest fear of tea is a “screechy” sort of thing that almost burns my nose! I most often find this as a top note in newer, mass marketed, designer fragrances.
Azar xx
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Hi Mom – Just a thought… were you putting the perfume on at the same time of day each time? I don’t think I’ve had this experience to this degree with perfume but I do find that things can taste very different to me first thing in the morning than they do in the afternoon/evening. I wonder if the same sort of thing could happen with perfume/scent. I guess this may go along with the theory of atmospheric conditions but I think it might more to it than that. Or maybe not… who knows!
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Hi Lauren,
Time of day is a great reference point! It combines both atmospheric conditions and body chemistry. Let’s give it a try when you get here. I’m so looking forward to seeing you!!
Mommy Azar xx and X
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