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Portia
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Hey Hey Perfume Junkies,
APJs new Thursday thing for September. Hoping to combat the guilt I feel when so much arrives and so little gets written about, the idea of New Sniffs emerged.
The idea is that anything worthy of comment, either good or bad, that’s passed under my nose through the week will get a short write up. Up till now I have kept APJ positive comments only, those days are gone. If I think something is terrible, shamefully lazy, greedy or stupid and you should know about it, it will be said. Not everything works for everyone and it would be pretty boring if it did >>> YMMV. I’d love it if you all agree, respectfully disagree, have any thought-out opinion and want to share, do so in the comments below. The point is starting a conversation.
Anything that I’m not keeping becomes a super simple GIVEAWAY. All comments are entered. Next week I’ll tell you who random.org picked. If the winner doesn’t eMail me during the week it will JACKPOT to next weeks winner who will get both.
Last Weeks Winner: marcellavmiller
eMail me at (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with your address please
New Sniffs: 20.9.2018
Pluie Noire by Parfumerie Particulière
Imagine salty sea and metal joining with the sharp tang of juniper berries. Pluie Noire is cold, refreshing and weird. Like being inside a clock mechanism, metal, oil, cold, sharp. Not for the faint hearted but so interesting.
Patchouli Oud by Affinessence
Ignore the first minute or two of Patchouli Oud. It has nothing to do with the excellent fragrance underneath. Patchouli, incense and the lemony resin zing of elemi all work together seamlessly to produce a very wearable fragrance that is unusual enough to maintain interest. I also smell a dose of rose or clove that’s not mentioned in the notes.
Cedre Iris by Affinessence
If you told me that Cedre Iris was from the Hermessence line I would totally believe you. It has that weightless and slightly oily feel to it. Doughy iris and warm pencil shavings. Nice.
Eleventh Hour by Byredo
Stewed fruit, pepper, booze and woods. People are poo-pooing this release but I find it gorgeous. It’s in the style of those early Serge Lutens releases but with a 21st century upgrade. Eleventh Hour could be retail FB worthy for me, I’m going to give the sample a few more wears.
Pour un Homme Millesime 2014 by Caron
This should be the gold standard lavender. Desiccated, parched and windswept lavender softened by a rich vanilla/amber. Breathtakingly gorgeous and a huge surprise. WOW! I WANT IT BAD!
Tiger’s Nest by Memo Paris
My experience of this brand will be forever tainted by my memory of knocking over and breaking one of their candles at Le Bon Marche in Paris. The sheer weight of mortification cannot be understated.
BUT! If you love incense and want one that smells more like a Pacific Islands version than India, Japan or the Catholic church then this is a very good one. 90% incense with lovely bitter green wormwood, dry cracked pepper and tea rose. Smells worthy of the hype.
Tendre Nuit by Isabey
Very pretty feminine. Almonds, vegetal musk and rose. Its gentle, smooth elegance could fit easily into the Sylvaine Delacourt lineup. I bought a 15ml Travel Spray and the packaging is to die for. EXCELLENT stocking filler. Not a necessary purchase for anyone who already has something smooth and pretty.
(homage to) Hemingway by Masque Milano
OK, if you LOVE vetiver or don’t have a vetiver in your collection then you should give Hemingway a sniff. A very accomplished vetiver with a few bells & whistles for extra zing. Personally, as a softcore vetiver liker, I found it not clever or unusual enough to warrant a purchase.
My collection already boasts bottles of L’Artisan Coeur de Vetiver Sacre, Lalique Encre Noire, Montale Red Vetiver, Guerlain Vetiver, Terre d’Hermès plus some vetiver-centric decants.
Have you tried any of these? How did they work for you?
Portia xx
I haven’t tried any of these though I have the original Caron Pour Homme. A bit too medicinal for me. I like Byredo’s Ouds. I do like vetiver; so, Hemingway sounds good. I like vetiver and petitgrain together. Mmmmm.
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Hey Gina,
If you found the original Caron too astringent you will probably hate the modern take.
Hemingway will be a hit I reckon.
Portia x
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Tiger’s Nest. Must try for me. I’m an incense newbie and have had some great suggestions from the crowd on the blog. This one sounds different enough to make the cut.
Oh no! What happens if it’s so good and I go FB on it!?? Then I will be vicariously feeling your painful mortification as well! I must unread that part of the description. Ugh. I can just feel that instant rush of burning heat that zaps your whole body when something like that happens. Well….glad it wasn’t me 😇
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Ha Ha Ha Ha! It was AWFUL! Michael and Scott just stood there laughing at me and I had to laugh from humiliation. It was kinda funny though.
Portia xx
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I admit that I always laugh at the most in opportune moments too. What else can you do when you’re standing there all scarlet and feeling like a right nit ☺️
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Those things do tend to have a droll side, in a weird way.
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Ditto both.
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Yes it was a moment !!
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Marcella, congats on your win!
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Ditto this!!!!
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No congrats. Did not get the Shalimar. Very confused though 😐
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What win? I bed on a Shalimar? But I’m sure I mentioned here that I didn’t get it.
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Bid*
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Marcella, you won New Sniffs samples from Portia!
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LOL 😁
Diana it is so hysterical to me that you must always make us aware that we won, just as you did for me not that long ago 😸😸
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I know!! Someone here told me but I wasn’t sure which APJ post it was. I’ve been all over APJ this week. Indiscriminate poster! 😝
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You must eat healthy and get your samples, ladies!
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I’ve never had the chance to smell any Hemingway fragrance but the others vetiver juices from your personal collection list are really great. Vetiver note is such a wonderful note if blended properly, and i’ve experienced a lot of nuances and types of vetiver. I would add Bal D’afrique byredo and Vetiver from Dior prive line (sadly discontinued) . These 2 are my favourites vetiver fragrances.
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VERY nice choices Alen, Yes vetiver is lovely. I’m a fan of the many uses for the plant itself too.
Portia xx
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In India you can get placemats made of vetiver, which release their scent when you put plates on them. So nice!
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I like it in Bal dAfrique, that’s for sure!
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Hey Portia,
I inwardly shuddered at your Le Bon Marche story. Accidents happen but the embarrassment is the worst.
I don’t know any of these. I really like the Masque Milano line but don’t love vetiver dominant perfumes.
Eleventh Hour sounds like everything I can’t cope with 🙂 Always fun reading your thoughts on new releases though.
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Hiya Tara,
I just got a Russian Tea and am LOVING it. Wish I had sprung for Tango but wasn;’t feeling so flush that week.
Eleventh Hour, yes, you will need to sniff it on a card. It’s SO good for me though, really lovely.
Portia x
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Yes on Russian Tea. Also Assam of India. So far 2 absolutes I will order next time I see some discounts pop up on decanter’s sites.
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Eleventh Hour will be a future sample purchase, boozy fig is a must-try for me. We used to have knock-off Bon Marche chain stores here in the US, but they have all closed or been absorbed I think by Macys.
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Interesting about the Le Bon Marche stores VerbenaLuvvr,
It’s the most calm and restful shopping in Paris. So easy to wander in and drop scads of money at every till.
Portia xx
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I am so far far behind that I have not tried any of these but I thank you Portia for being our tester! Quite a few sound lovely!
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Brigitte,
There is TOO MUCH to keep on top of it all. Impossible. Even with this way I’m only chatting about the need to mention ones.
Portia xx
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Yeah Bridgette, at the bottom of the class with you. Lagging pitifully behind but loving what I have.
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Haven’t even heard of most of these offerings but our fearless leader will do the nosework for us😉. I’m doing my own little sniffage on my newbie this week.
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Hey Cassieflower,
I think you’ll be reading a lot about Parfumerie Particulière and Affinessence if they’re lucky. The frags are solid. PP being the weirdest, quite outlandish experiments, good though.
Portia xx
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Wanna join the bottom of the class with Mrs. Marzipan and myself?
We get to rifle spit balls at our more on point mates!
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Yep, budge over and make room.
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Okay. Start making spit balls. Make em big and make em gross.
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No problem at all🤪
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I’ve not tried any either. I have got aFB of Guerlain Vetiver, which I love
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Hey Matty,
Guerlain Vetiver is the platinum standard. Even though its longevity is TERRIBLE I love the way it smells.
Portia xx
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I have to agree about the longevity.
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Say what?! I must be grateful, then, Vetiver lasts at least a few hours on me, and it’s not even vintage.
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Tiger’s Nest and Iris Cedre sound great to me.
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Yup on Tiger’s Nest. It’s also on The List.
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Sigh, that does it. A visit to Hermés as soon as wallet contents allows. Cedre Iris sounds divine. I see myself buying 2 of their 4x15ml packs already. And the mother bottle of Brin.
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OOO I love Brin but those dang Hermessences last a millisecond on me 😦
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Same here. It’s futile.
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Noooo! You too? I thought it was just me. Such a shame because some of the scents are DIVINE.
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Another Hermessence failure to launch over here. You are not alone.
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For me the problem is that many of them give me a headache. It’s too bad as a really like how a number of them smell.
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I love this New Sniffs series because it’s a quick guide to what I should try and what I can avoid. I’ve only just found one Byredo that I like so I think I’ll try Eleventh Hour too. Memo has also interesting fragrances so I’ll give Tiger’s Nest a try also. Btw, I like the name.
Congrats on your win, Marcella!
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Again with the winning? Move along folks, nothing to see here. PSA: I did NOT win my vintage Shalimar bid.
But I’m still happy! 😛
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marcella: Go back to the top of the page, and read the section under the adorable photo of the sprawled out pupper… the bit that starts “Anything that I’m not keeping becomes a super simple GIVEAWAY” and ends with your name in very large letters…
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LOLL! I’m such a ditz! I was having such a gay old time here, I forgot that Portia gives out pressies. YAYY. I’m excited!
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Anyhow, I think it is quite appropriate that I won (even though I just moved in here) because a) I never win anything b) winter is coming and that sucks c) I have an ouchy hip and d) winning is fun and I like fun.
Kidding!! THANK-YOU! SO MUCH!!!
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Crikies, Crikey! You are into some serious business with the barbell. I doff my cap, drop my jaw in awe and hold you in high esteem. This requires some real man parts. Good on you! Keep wanting this, stay laser-focused and you will get there. I think this is marvellous!
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thanks, Marcella! No awe required though–it’s just a bit of luck, a bit of determination, and lots of contrariness.
(p.s. no man parts required. I believe women are just as tough, and capable of just as much strength.)
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Agree with the p.s.
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Tiger’s Nest is on my hit list too, Neva. I don’t trust those Byredos anymore. Non-existent sillage and rubbishy longevity on me
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This whole New Sniffs bunch seems like my kind of perfumes: they’re either strange (smelling like a clock mechanism or a boozy fruity je-ne-sais-quoi by Byredo) or, even better, iris-, vetiver- and lavender-centred scents. I love vetivers, Guerlain being the most adored and Tom Ford’s coming a close second, and I wear Pour un homme. Actually, I wish it were more astringent, I get a LOT of vanilla from it.
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I used to think those odd smells like clock mechanism did not belong in fragrances. But lately I’m beginning to like it. Maybe and sometimes. The clock smell however is oddly comforting. Weird, eh? Maybe I’m gettin’ with the times!
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Since this is a ‘New Sniffs’ focus group. Pray tell, has anyone tried any of the Carner Barcelona’s?
For some odd reason that name keeps popping up and equally inexplicably triggers my curiosity.
So, anyone able to spill the beans?
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There are many I like in this line, although I haven’t tried the newest ones as they are slow to get to the US. Cuirs is probably my favorite, super comforting woodsy leather; a lot of people like Tardes, an ambery rose that I love sometimes and sometimes find too sweet. There’s a beachy one I like – and own! – and can’t remember the name of! Also a good iris. D600? Bad memory and not at home to check!
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Thanks Amy. Tardes was on my ‘I should probably like this’ list. Appreciate your feed back. It’s going on the list.
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I tried Tardes which was pretty and not too heavy or too sweet and D600 which is more of an office friendly, modern scent (in a good way). Absolutely worth sampling.
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Merci Ingeborg. Tardes has cropped up two other times, so three including yourself. It’s going on the list together with El Born. No one mentioned it, but if I get one score out of two I’ll be pleased.
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Tardes was almonds and celery and I loved it. D600 was soft and cuddly and nice too. And that is all I have sampled from this house
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Thanks Brigitte. Tardes sounds great. My collection is well represented in the warm and cuddly. Tardes goes on the list!
Oh! I was in a shop today and found loads of essential oils by NOW. I’m going to revisit when I have a bit more time.
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Oh yes!!! If you see the oils in real life then definitely explore them! You can sample in the store and then see if they are more discounted online.
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I really want to try Memo, Luckyscent has a cute sample set but the shipping costs more than the perfume. Sad.
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I understand. Often the case here when ordering samples from US to Canada. Then tap on the murderous exchange rate. Yuck!
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I am a vetiver fan and really like the ginger and vetiver of Hemingway. Bought it. Oopsie. I found the Memo a nice incense, but it got a big ‘baby powder’ thumbs down from my person. Will have to retry Iris Cedre as it didn’t sit with me the first try.
I too love this new feature!
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Oh and do get some Tango sometime! Wore it last night and it is so good!!
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Yeah, I’ve worn the Tango. It is lovely but I had to make a choice in this shopping instance.
Portia x
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I hate choices! But completely understand.
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I bought the Guerlain Vetiver for Johnny in the 2000’s but I ended up wearing it the FB too.
Short and sweet new sniffs, Portia love it xxxx 😎😎
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I bet YOU smell fabulous in it Anicasunny.
Love you.
Portia x
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Hi love,
I think you saved me some $$ on Eleventh Hour. I was excited about it, but when I tried it, it was just straight up clove oil on my skin. I generally love Byredo though.
Thanks for letting me smell some of these! Yay!
xx Tina G
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That was a really fun Sniff Session TinaG. We are open nearly all hours here for such things.
Portia xx
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Oh dear, I’d turn inside out if I accidentally broke something like that! Did they ask you to pay for it, or just let you curl up in embarrassed agony for the rest of the visit? I was terrified that something similar might happen when I visited you, haha, those pedestal boxes were GREAT for a quick shot of adrenaline! 😉
Pluie Noire sounds very fascinating, I love weird “non perfume” accords. I’m also very into stewed fruit and booze, NG Cuir Velours is in the crosshairs for that combo, but I’ll have to give Eleventh Hour a sniff.
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Hey M,
Nope, they didn’t ask. THANK GAWD! I would have gone berserk. A right scene would have ensued.
Come back here and sniff em all.
Portia xx
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I love Isabey’s bottles! I didn’t know a new fragrance was released; I’ve added Tendre Nuit to my sampling wish list. The only Isabey I own is Fleure Nocturne, gorgeous stuff!
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Hey Kathleen,
Yeah, they’ve been adding a few new scents but nobody is talking about them.
I too have FB of Fleure Nocturne. So good.
I love that they are doing the 10ml Travels. Makes so much more sense.
Portia x
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I haven’t tried any of these. I guess the Byredo would not be difficult to find, the brand is in many shops here in Scandinavia. I have so far not found anything I must have from Byredo, but then I have to admit I have mostly sniffed on card in stores, not tried samples at home.
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Hey Ingeborg,
Byredo seems to be a very polarising house. Some people whose noses I trust completely are on each side of the fence. Personally, about 60% of the range works for me. Currently there are only three bottles of their frags in my collection; Oud Accord, Black Saffron and M/Mink. Black Saffron getting by far the most wear, especially in the warmer months.
Portia xx
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I should keep trying the Byredo offerings, the brand has been an entry point to niche for my aunt and several of my friends.
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