New Sniffs + Thunked: 17.1.2019

/ AustralianPerfumeJunkies

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Portia

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Hey Hey Perfume Junkies,

OK I’m adding a THUNKED section here too. It’s becoming an APJ obsession and I love the idea of us using our fragrances and hoiking the vial, decant or bottle. Thunk is the sound of an empty hitting the bin so you must empty it for the thunk to count.

Anything worthy of comment, either good or bad, that’s passed under my nose through the week will get a short write up. If I think something is terrible, shamefully lazy, greedy or stupid and you should know about it, it will be said. As always YMMV.

I’d love it if you get involved: agree, respectfully disagree, have any thought-out opinion and want to share, do so in the comments below. The point is starting a conversation.

New Sniffs + Thunked: 17.1.2019

New Sniffs:

In The Woods by Cult of Scent

Not strictly speaking a new sniff but I am loving rediscovering its spiced and minty cedar surrounded by the cool unburnt resins of incense and citrus. I had forgotten how terrific this is. MMMMM

Tom Ford Lost Cherry

OMG! I’m embarrassed by how much I freaking LOVE this. Sour Cherry Cheesecake sprinkled with almonds and arriving in new Tupperware! They’ve done it without any of that freaky saccharine back taste too. This shit is my jam.
Should be a Guerlain. If they could remember how to make fine fragrance.
Now I want it BADLY!!

Colorado by DSH Perfumes

Dawn has created a thing of beauty, eye rollingly good. Warm, sweet and thick, luscious. Resinous woods, maple syrup, clean smelling beeswax and the cold fluffy char smell of a dead fires ashes.
Only 50 signed bottles made in conjunction with American Perfumer.

Thunked:

Vanille Fleur by Micallef

It’s an odd bird. Vanilla and roses, with a dash of fruitiness. You’d think it would be luscious and dewy but it isn’t. Dry, desiccated coconutty vanilla with subtle fruity rose thread running through. Quite a surprise.

Ma Bête by Eris Parfums

Ma Bête is a LOT raunchier at heftier levels, the resins and something bed heady are SO GOOD! All overlaying a very pretty, vintage feeling, aldehydic floral. Now I really want a bottle.

Midnight Spirit by Olibere Paris

Thunked a 2ml spray sample. OMG! I am a sillage bomb! Citrus (with that ultra sweet grapefruit tartness), booze, zingy pink pepper and greenery with a very nice dry grass heart and smoky amber woods base

Have you tried any of these? How did they work for you?
Portia xx

96 thoughts on “New Sniffs + Thunked: 17.1.2019”

  1. Nope, not a single one of them, but In the Woods and Ma Bete could be just right for my taste.
    Lost Cherry – I can’t even imagine such an edible perfume but now you’ve made me curious 😉

    Liked by 1 person

  4. I want to try Lost Cherry too! Of course I haven’t tried any of these, but I’m off to have a little gander🤓
    And THUNK to Camel this morning. Gorgeously unctuous fruit.

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  5. I am thunkless this week, sorry! But I did try Lost Cherry and also really liked it. We have a lovely SA here who is nuts about his product, and will talk and spritz with abandonment. Yay!

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  6. I haven’t tried any of these. I’m afraid to try Lost Cherry. Even if I could afford it, I really don’t like the name (didn’t like FFabulous either). Maybe a little prudish but Tom Ford seems increasingly like a frat boy (maybe he always was?) and I don’t want to support that. No shade on anyone who does of course, my Puritan side is just coming out. 😳🙄 (yeah, I know, it’s just perfume…..)

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  7. Portia – do you get any cedar in Colorado? I love Dawn’s perfumes and that one intrigues me but I often struggle with cedar.

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    • I have difficulty with cedar as well in fragrance MMKinPA. I feel like I miss out on many fragrances, but can’t get past the not wanting to smell like cedar. I love it in nature, not on me. I love Dawn’s perfumes as well, but wasn’t interested in Colorado or any of her outdoor scents (I even live in Colorado). I walk daily in nature and maybe I get enough of the outdoors scents there?

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  8. I bought Lost Cherry for my eldest daughter for Christmas. It smells fantastic on her. I tried it on when she opened it and loved it for about an hour which is when it disappeared. She gets about six hours out of it. Jealous.
    Recently thunked Kiki VdP which took me about three wearings to fully appreciate and Le Mat which only took about three minutes for lust to set in.

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          • Le Mat is one of the few rose perfumes that don’t go sour on my skin. There’s a good dose of warm and earthy patchouli to colour that rose dark, dark red and a sprinkling of immortelle to sweeten it up. Although it performs like a good vintage it’s distinctly modern. It’s warm but not suffocating. It’s not airy but also far from dense. To my nose it is perfectly balanced, unique and comfortable. Not a cozy gourmand woody comfort though.
            It’s not a no-brainer but neither is it challenging. It’s just an absolute pleasure to wear. The warm, slightly sweetened and earthy rose is absolutley addictive. I also think it could be worn in all seasons except for the peak of summer.

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          • Enthusiastically seconding the recommendation for this, because it’s something special… though do try it *lightly* the first time (though it’s also worth lashing it on as well just to see what it does!) The opening, particularly, is as rich and thick as brandy butter. I prefer it once it’s got past the first twenty minutes or so, and unfolded a little, and burned off the booziness.

            It’s kind of PoaL’s goth sister.

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      • I have that same problem with TF, lovely as they might be, longevity is not good which is just not on at that price point. There are two exceptions, Orchid Soleil and Black Orchid. Perhaps the base material is similar in those two.

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    • I put on my sample of Le Mat after reading your post. It really has a lovely comfortable dry down. I purchased Rituale from this line, I love it as you love Le Mat. Very well made fragrances!

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  9. Thunkless this week. Just not in the mood for smelling like anything other than ME. : (
    Dawn’s Colorado sounds marvelous (ya got me with the beeswax), but $125 in my bank account sounds even more marvelous with no disrespect to DSH.

    I did sample Andy Tauer’s latest body oil called Wowilla. Portia, I think you might like this one. Way way way too sweet for me. A really villainous vanilla bomb. Notes are Reunion vanilla, sandalwood, labdanum, patchouli. Labdanum is one of my favorite notes but the vanilla in this (and it’s a good vanilla, not a synthy, stinking one) is all I could smell. It was so intense, I had to shower again to rid myself of it.

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  10. New sniffs for me this week:

    * Portal by Kingdom Scotland. Nope. Not a hit with me. Even on fabric it feels rather more like a functional/cleaning product than “verdant florals” and “ancient Caledonian forest”. Disappointed, because I really liked Metamorphic and bought a travel spray of that one (but I am a sucker for a good peaty smoke scent). I need to stop bothering with anything marketed as “fresh”, I think.

    * Bois Sikar by Atelier des Ors. This doesn’t go Islay malt and a cigar for me–which I would be totally down with–but instead feels a bit too heavy on the nutmeg and bacon on a campfire (it’s a meaty smoke along with the cold tobacco.) The opening is lovely, but then it becomes a bit, er, robust.

    When I go wandering to smell Si on Kate’s recommendation, I’m going to have to try the TF too after this. Though I would cheerfully knock TF’s head together with Kilian’s, for the puerile saucy-seaside-postcard names. (I can out-swear and out-innuendo most, but these just piss me right off.) Colorado sounds bloody lovely… i don’t think I’ve ever tried a DSH scent. Here’s hoping American Perfumer does so very, very well they set up an outpost in the UK and give us access to such loveliness.

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  11. Tried none of these but In the woods and Ma Bête have piqued my curiosity. I’d try Lost Cherry because of so many favourable reviews but, honestly, the name is rather unpleasant. Tom, your frags should speak for themselves, there’s really no need to go the Kilian way and invent some childish names. “I’m so fabulous. – No, you aren’t. – Are, too!” 🙂

    Oh, and no new sniffs and no thunks so far. I know, I know, I should get with the program.

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  12. Nothing thunked this week, a nearly thunk on a sample of Memoir Woman, but i saved the last drops for another wear. I ordered this sample in the beginnings of my new interest in perfumes and thought it was a very loud floral. Now 9months later i am beginning to see its beauty….. Even got me interested in a decant.
    Today testing Liquides Imaginaires Peau de Bete. I just made a dab on the back of my hand. Wow, this is a musky, skin-like and sweaty scent. I don’t get leather, more a flowery musk. As i have a 10ml decant, i can do a thorough testing.

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  13. Some lovely scents on your list Portia. Lots of new sniffs for me as my STC and Decantshop orders arrived. Highlights Bond No9 Washington Square, Eau d’Italie Sienne, Bvlgari Au the Noir and Atelier Iris Rebelle. Tiziana Terenzi Gold Rose Oudh will be thunked by end of day. And treated myself to another little sample of A Lab on Fire California Snow.

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    • OOOO! Have always been fascinated by Washington Square as it is very near the Marshall Chess Club where all three marzipans used to play. I am curious as to what you think of it. How insane is it that the name alone intrigues me enough to want to try this one?

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      • Well Brigitte, I’m trying it mostly because the bottle is so very pretty and i think it would look super fancy next to my Chinatown. Initial wear – soft powdery musk. I’ll wear it in earnest soon and put my thoughts on SOTD xx

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    • YAY! How exciting is it to get the Surrender To Chance package? One of my favourite moments.
      Love Bvlgari Au the Noir (grabbed a bottle, need to get it out) and Atelier Iris Rebelle is SO on my list for FB purchase, it sang beautifully on my skin.
      Portia xx

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  14. “This shit is my jam”….lordy, Portia, I LOVE THAT LINE.

    I tried all of the Eris Perfumes and Mx was Mr. Marzipan’s favorite…quote “where that retro perfume for me”….I had a sample of it and for the life of me I don’t know where it is…probably hiding in the basement somewhere.

    It’s been a busy thunk week….completely emptied my decant of Bottega Venetta Absolu, my mini of Bottega Venetta, and my entire sampler of Comp Sud Pacifique….the ones that I count as thunks also are the ones that were confiscated…bottles of Berdoues Violettes, Meteorites, and Iris Nobile. And decants of Rose all Dae, Intimate Seduction and Apres LOndee extrait. My little bottle of Eau de Cartier sits in my work bathroom and I spray lavishly every time I go in…and other folks are using it too so by next week that will be a thunk.

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  15. do you find lost cherry to be better than FF, I have tried none. Is lost cherry similar to some extent to Guerlain La Petitie Robe since that makes use of notes like almond, cherry etc, too unless I am forgetting something. Or is there any other frag. Lost Cherry reminds you of?

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    • Hey Fazal,
      F**cking Fabulous was a comfortable amber-centric fragrance on me, nothing I don’t have in my collection already.
      La Petitie Robe has always felt screechy and ungrounded for me, except in the extrait. Lost Cherry wears with gravitas only skin. It is a fruity, creamy gourmand but done elegantly and with zero screech factor. Modern cherry frags also have the backbite of sugar free drinks for me, which I find uncomfortable to my palate, LC is free of that toxicity too.
      While being a sideways glance at all the other cherries it feels like a grown up look at the genre.
      Portia xx

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      • thanks for the detailed explanation. I actually happen to have la petite in extrait (that 30ml tester cube bottle). So in extrait version, la petite does have some similarities to LC?

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  16. Haven’t tried anything new this week, because I’ve been ill. Apart from trying again a tiny dab of Orlov perfume, not sure the sample is correctly labelled (says Orlov Orlov). Boozy perfume, should try again.

    No thunking, except for body lotions.

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  17. Tried Rogue by Rhiana yesterday. Not my thing. So very synthetic. Began to annoy me 15 min later. Scrubbed after 30 min.

    Sprayed La Vie Est Belle Flowers of Happiness on the other hand. Ok opening. Rather like Ever Bloom Ginza by Shiseido. Shrieking peony. I quite liked it, but didn’t sit well on me. My two boys and mum agreed that it isn’t me. Apparently 24 Faubourg edp is what they think of as ‘me’.

    Onto a card went a white floral by The Body Shop. One of the 5 edps… Can’t think of it’s name. Bright tropical opening and completely gone in 10 min. A shame…

    No thunks, though I am trying to use up my shower/bath products. I keep finding little travel sized gels everywhere.

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