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Portia
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Hello Fellow Fumies,
At APJ we have a Saturday Question. Everyone gets to chime in with an answer, chat with other responders and it’s a fun event each week. Taking sides never means taking offence and everyone keeps it respectful and light, even though we can sometimes trawl the depths.
The idea is you’ll see it on the weekend or chime in through the week. Hopefully you will come back regularly and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them. The aim is to generate real conversation and connection even though we are scattered around the globe.
Over 100 responses I will draw a Secret Scent Sample Pack (from my collection)
Last Weeks Winner: Cassieflower
eMail me at (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with your address please
Saturday Question: What Do You Fragrance Cocoon With?
Fragrance Cocoon? What the hell? This is how I describe the feeling of being utterly encased in fragrance to hold the Black Dog of Depression, Fear and Anxiety at bay. Most of us go through amounts of all of these at different times in our lives. Some more so than others. I’m not a very regular depressive but when they do come it’s swift, dark and brutal. A swampy spiral into the abyss.
More often though I have constant anxiety which is basically low level PTSD from growing up a gay kid in the 1970s-90s. It’s become more pronounced as I get older and less able to physically choose either fight or flight.
One of the ways I deal with this is to multispritz my fragrance and walk around with 1980s projection and sillage. I call it Cocooning because it feels like a real barrier between me and the world.
So, part of my coping mechanism is to catch myself before the spiral starts in earnest. If I can get some fragrance on my skin and into my nose then more often than not the Black Dog can be impounded. I have a couple of go-tos that ALWAYS work for me. They distract my mind, make me think of stories and take me on an adventure.
I will also say that these beauties also get worn when I’m not feeling down. Just for their sheer beauty.
My Answer:
Equistrius by Parfum d’Empire
If you can imagine a choc-iris-violet oriental fragrance. Of course you can’t! Nothing on earth smells quite like Equistrius. It is a wonderful fragrance, goes through many changes and has light and shade along its whole life. Excellent to overspritz and cocoon in.
Samsara by Guerlain
Most of you know Samsara. It’s the over the top ylang, vanilla and sandalwood fragrance held to the ground by iris and amber. Like wearing molten gold, it shimmers and glows. When I wear a lot of Samsara it feels like I leave incandescent trails of scent after me.
Sharp by Andrea Maack
Andrea Maack gives the shortest ingredient list ever. Orange blossom, vanilla and musk. This fragrance is so much more. There is something awkward hiding amongst its beauty. It peeps out and runs to hide, playing and enticing and leading my mind down new pathways every time. Ultimate cocooning fragrance.
Ubar by Amouage
Ubar is a favourite amongst the old school perfumistas. I have both the early iteration in the ugliest bottle of all time (that I never wear) and a new one. The modern Ubar wears so incredibly richly and beautifully on my skin. It is an utter Wall Of Perfume and light that fills my senses and leaves little room for darkness or the Black Dog. It also blooms brilliantly in the humid summer weather. Amazing.
I’m a mum so I always cocoon myself with something that makes my young ones feel better when the house is in stress. Parfum d’Ete by Kenzo. If they’re ok, I’m ok. 🙂
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It’s such rounded and pleasant perfume! I haven’t tried it for a long while and don’t know if one can still buy it in the formulation that I used to love, but perfume I remember was a nice “calmer.”
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Hi undina,
So nice to see you. Are you well?
Portia xx
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It’s a lovely subtle scent Undina.
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Hi there Mskayjae,
So interesting the being a Mum would shape your fragrance choice for cocooning. I ,ove it. Does it work?
Portia x
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Hi Portia,
I’ve had it longer than any other scent in my collection so it’s what my kids think ‘Mum’ smells like. It adds to the comfort factor I think.
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God I love your writing Portia.
Vol de Nuit is my go-to cocoon fragrance. It acts as a barrier against the world but alsoreachs into my soul.
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What a beautiful way to start my day. thanks Tara,
Vol de Nuit is a beautiful cocoon choice. That lovely combo of scents that evoke tentative joy and melancholy reverie in me. Perfect.
Portia xx
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I do not get depression, but walk a tightrope of ballet perfectionism…when I get a bit breathless with it all, I like Shalimar. A lot of it if I am alone. Aren’t we lucky that we have perfume on our side?
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As a former ballet dancer and only child I have walked that same tightrope, Jackie….I agree , we are lucky to have perfume as an antidote.
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Another only child eh? Same here. High expectations lead to the pursuit of perfection in my case.
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same for me as well…..
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and I had the double whammy of the wacky world of professional ballet and only child syndrome….
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Parental expectations certainly shape you…not always in a positive way. And society makes you hard on yourself and others so it’s hard to rise above it.
Always feel supported here though!
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Ballet! An interesting art form, perfection is such a narrow bandwidth in it. Like music, there is little room for self expression until you hit the very top. Even then the structure is so ingrained.
Shalimar would be the perfect antidote for that JackieB (and Brigitte)
Portia xx
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When I need to feel like a warrior, I wear Boadicea Complex. When I need to feel comfort, I wear all of my rose fragrances at the same time. When I want to feel warm and close to my dad, I wear Raghba.
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WOW! Gina, how many rose frags is that?
I love that you wear Raghba to feel close to your Dad. What a fabulous choice.
Portia x
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I am incredibly blessed that I have never suffered from real depression. Ofcourse a tiny black doggie visits once in a while, and I can get too worried. When that happens I wear my happy scents, Quel Amour, Eau de Camille or Eau Absolue. Songes often hits the cocoon/happy spot, or AA Jasmina. Incense can allow for a sense of timeless peace, Calling all Angels, or myrhe as in Myrhhe Ardente. Great question!
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I adore eau de Camille..such a beautiful honeysuckle and ivy …wish it hadn’t been discontinued.
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It is for me the quintessential spring fragrance! Do you still have some?
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Sadly, no…but it lives on in my memory…and in some ways my Eau de Lierre sort of fills the “ivy” void 🙂
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I am happy to send you some, you are in the US aren’t you? I have sent decants before from Europe that have made it across ;-). The only caveat is that I am not yet mobile enough to go to the postoffice so it would take a while.
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you are so very kind and gracious…no worries on sending some given your lack of mobility…please wear it for me….yes, I am across the sea so the mailing does not always work and I would not want something precious to be confiscated by our USA postal service.
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Hi there Hamamelis,
You are a very lucky person, some people just don’t get depressed. Jin is with you. Sad sometimes but that’s the end of it.
Your list reads like one I would write for joyful scents. We snap on quite a few faves.
Portia xx
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Ohh yes for sure. It’s hard for me to believe that out there some people never experienced depression. I agree that level of depression may vary from person to person but imho everybody is affected, more or less. I do have two special fragrances for the “dark days”, scents that connects with some memories and distracts me in a good way. Those would be Obsession for men from CK and 21 from Costume National, they really work like a small shield ✌🏻
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OMG Alen,
21 from Costume National is genius. that milky, funky fragrance that is so unusual (or was when released) and can turn all thoughts to it and its progression. What a sensational choice for cocooning. I need to grab mine out and give it some more love.
Portia xx
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I’m pretty sure some people don’t get depressed. One piece of evidence: people who do have episodes with anxiety and/or depression layer in their lives and then tell me ‘oh now I know you weren’t just malingering.’ As some one who is highly functioning but has a lot of issues with anxiety and depression, the levels of cluelessness I encounter sort of enrage me. Ugh. Sorry. Just a little mini-rant about the difference between some nerves or sadness and depression, PTSD, and anxiety disorders. None are fun, but they are different.
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Later not later!
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Maybe later, not layer? Anyhow, autocorrect is never our friend. Your comment is on point. I’ve often thought that people prone to depression ‘feel’ things too intensely. This, however, allows them to experience joy at a much higher level. I agree in your thinking that some people do not get depressed. But I wonder then if they do not experience extreme lows can they really feel the same degree of happiness/joy?
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Amy, I understand you perfectly! A lot of people just cannot fathom what it’s like unless they’ve been hit by depression or anxiety. Plus some of them dare to give advice!.
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It’s funny that the Black Dog is such a good description, because I’ve loved more than one black dog – but I just have normal depression/anxiety, but my daughter’s is clinical and has robbed her of years, so my heart goes out to you, Portia. I know the pain you describe, and it’s unspeakable. That said, I cocoon in Antonia and vintage no.19, not only because they are SO beautiful and I love them, but because they were gifts and remind me of the kindness that exists in the world. Sometimes I need that.
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Both No 19 and Antonia are high on the list of my favorites, and I’m glad they help you.
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Oh Empliau,
So sorry to read about your daughter. Please send her APJs love and remind her she’s not alone.
Super glam choices for you. What lovely gifts, and yes there IS kindness in the world. Sometimes it becomes a lot harder to find.
Portia xx
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I’ve had depression for almost twenty years, the good thing is that I’ve learned to deal with it over time. Perfumes don’t always do the trick but perhaps Shalimar and Avignon (or anything in the similar vein, e.g. Rosarium) might come in handy when I need to ward off the black dog.
Sending you some warm hugs, Portia (please don’t mind the snow 🙂 )
PS Cassie, congratulations! More new sniffs coming your way!
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Sorry to read about your depression Diana, yes fragrance is just a front line defence. The really dark Black Dog needs careful attention and medical support.
The orient and incense? Perfect choices to change up your world and mood.
Hugs right back at you.
Portia xx
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Thank you, Portia
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I’ve never suffered from clinical depression. Family members have. I sympathise with anyone suffering.
I’ve had times of great anxiety, but circumstances change so I feel a lot better.
My main perfumes for comfort are Samsara…Shalimar and Mitsouko. Guerlain perfumes always lift my spirits.
Congrats to Cassieflower….lovely new sniffs for you X
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Matty, Anxiety can be equally as crippling as depression, so glad those days are behind you.
Guerlain has a special something, doesn’t it?
Portia xx
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Portia, you always come up with brilliant Saturday questions and so openly share a part of yourself in the process…love ya with a huge marzipan hug from tiny old me 🙂
My cocoon fragrances come from my three favorite perfumers of all time- Diane St Clair, Jessica September Buchanan and Laurie Erickson. I love every single fragrance that these extraordinarily talented ladies have made but I will pick only three for this question (and I love them all in equal measure)
Casablanca by St Clair Scents-a big white floral that makes me feel like a superstar and I feel as though I can conquer the world……my produce lady who has worn nothing but Jessica McKlintoch for years stopped me today and told me that I smelled “divine” and wanted to know what it was…I told her the whole story of how a world renowned artisanal butter maker segued into perfumery…she was intrigued…methinks I need to make her a 1ml sample, eh? So many folks are ranting about Casablanca because it’s a beauty!
Reglisse Noire by 1000 Flowers- such a happy,festive,pretty,unique versatile fragrance…it’s so ME….I have loved this one for seven years and have drained oodles of bottles…it just brings a smile to my face…this is a house that has been under the radar for a while and I think needs to be talked about.
Incense Pure by Sonoma Scent Studio- instant valium..totally soothes my nerves on days when my anxiety acts up…hey, if a Tibetan Buddhist nun comes up to your table at an Indian restaurant to ask you what you are wearing and where she can buy it you know it’s the real deal…..
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For some reason I thought Reglisse Noire was a new love of yours. You’re not only passionate, you’re also incredibly faithful 😉
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Ha,yes, I suppose I am, especially when I really like a perfumer not just for their work but for how they present themselves to the world. Jessica was a Canadian who sold her house so that she could study perfumery in France. She always
presented as humble and appreciative of her customers. Diane and Laurie the same. All three perfumers are similar in style and temperament and lovely folks which is why I love to support them.
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Hey Brigitte,
Marzipan hugs sound wonderful.
What a stellar line up.
OMG! Your produced DEFINITELY needs a sample of Casablanca, great idea.
Portia xx
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and congrats, Cassie! the perfume gods are smiling down on you!!!
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They surely are. Hope that’s not my lot for the year☺️
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The Black Dog. He frequently pals around with me. Nipping at my heels when I least want his company. If he presents not yet fully grown, new sniffs can be a great distraction. When he follows me around all grown up and gnarly I lose interest in most things. Perfume included. Thankfully I haven’t had him as a companion for several years.
And congrats Cassie!! What is that now? 43rd win? Luck of the Irish 😂
I’ve been dying to say that!
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Ha, in all honesty this is the only place I have ever won ANYTHING. I couldn’t win an argument with myself at all other times☺️
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Hey Marcella,
Cold comfort I know but the APJ crew are here 24/7 chattering about something and ready to give you eHugs day or night, should you need them.
Depression is shit. Glad you’ve not seen it around lately.
Portia xx
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Thanks Portia. That’s very, very kind and so thoughtful of you to say so. Big hug!
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Wohoo
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Dear Portia, I’m so sorry that you have to deal with depression, glad you find ways to fight it, and hope that the only dog of that color that gets close to you in the next many-many years is Paris ;).
I’m lucky, so far I didn’t experience real depression. I’m constantly under a lot of stress, but since it’s my regular life, all perfumes that I use serve as an antidote. But I still have perfume that fits your question: just a couple of days ago, after I had a dental surgery, was scared and felt miserable, I put on Jo Malone Sweet Milk, and it cradled me gently throughout the day. It’s a pity the’ve never re-released that limited edition perfumes.
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I agree. Sweet Milk needs to be brought back!!!
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Even the title of that sounds spot on.
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Hi there Undina,
How funny that my dog IS a black dog. Paris is so good, sweet and loving I feel blessed having him around.
Stress can be tough too.
Dental Surgery! Did it go OK? You alright?
Sweet Milk, is it a milky fragrance soliflor or a tea frag?
Portia xx
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I’m still on a soft diet, but at least I don’t need pain killers any longer – so it’s a progress 🙂
Sweet Milk smells exactly as it sounds. It reminds me of sweetened condensed milk with some vanilla. Really comforting.
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I have experienced what I would call mild depression — mild, because I feel it has been less of a struggle than that of friends who have REALLY experienced the full onslaught of the Black Dog, and I’m so sorry others here have had that. “Mild” is still no fun. I don’t know that I have a true cocoon fragrance myself, but I associate the smell of classic Old Spice with my very comforting husband, so it’s a comfort fragrance for me though I don’t wear it myself. I find carnation-based scents soothing for that reason.
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Old Spice is so lovely.
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hey OH,
Mild depression can be debilitating too. I’m glad it’s never been the darkest, end of days stuff for you.
I love that Old Spice is your cocoon and that you don’t even have to wear it, just gra a cuddle. Your guy smells so good. YUM!
Portia xx
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Old Spice is the most comforting, reassuring fragrance. My father used to wear it. When I smelled it I knew that all would be right with the world.
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My dad, too. Another one to round up for the time travel fragrance haul.
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Wouldn’t that be terrific!
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When I worked for a CPA firm in Manhattan my boss wore Old Spice every day. It was his signature scent. It made coming to work a pleasure , just to smell it on him.
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It’s a great scent. Wonder how it has aged?
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I am sure it’s been reformed …twenty times over….Mr. M has asked about that one recently…his dad wore it.
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I have not had ever suffered from depression. Other things, but not that. I don’t really cocoon, as I am far to hyper to sit down for long enough! But when I wanna be alone and read a book on the sofa under a blanket for 20 minutes – I would wear Iris Silver Mist. xxxxxx
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Nice choice Val,
ISM is something that makes me think of Michael. It’s SO him, and now you. Cool.
Portia xx
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I just got a bell jar of ISM as a present and am so thrilled with it. For me it fortifies.
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What a seriously nice present. 🔥
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I know right? I have a very good person.
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I’m probably lucky that the Black Dog has buggered off from around these parts. I had a couple of years in my mid teens when things were all turmoil and utter shite, and out of my control, and think I was reacting to this. I’ve had stress aplenty in my adult life which can make me feel like I’m losing the plot, but I know this is transient. Some members of my family have been blighted by it, and a friend’s son is a constant worry. It’s very prevalent with young males here and there’s a public health initiative to highlight this.
The closest thing to a cocoon scent for me is my old reliable Magie Noire. It’s truly a superhero cape/anti-crap shield/capability apron. There’s also something in the Narciso line that’s incredibly comforting, the musc obviously.
You always throw something at us to make us stop and think, Portia. And thanks for sharing your own Black Dog evasion tactics. I hope that cur slopes off into the sunset somewhere over the Blue Mountains and gives Paramatta a wide berth😉
And omg, it’s an embarrassment of perfume riches for me this week! Am I embarrassed personally? Hell no.
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Cassieflower,
Stress is awful too. It is often a dark days gateway for me. The downward spiral starts out about thinking a way forward and the negativity begins. A sneaky back door entrance to the blight.
Really happy to read that your area is doing something about men’s depression, it’s been swept under the rug or willfully ignored for centuries.
YAY! So happy that your name came up, you always contribute so much to APJ.
Portia xx
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Well put Portia. Female depression get a lot of attention. I used to wonder, huh, don’t guys get depressed? Of course they do. Perhaps men are less comfortable discussing it. The whole big boys don’t cry crap. Depression in men needs different handling than in women because of that. But, nevertheless, deserves equal consideration.
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Here in the past five years or so we’ve had Men’s Sheds spring up in so many localities. It focuses mostly on some trade or other be it woodworks, mechanics, painting, music, literature or any other topic under the sun. Men nowadays don’t know what the hell is expected of them anymore, and many are lonely after divorce or bereavement or breakdown within their immediate family. It’s an easygoing drop in and out space and they can talk about things that are troubling them side to side while working on some project. It has been the salvation of many.
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That’s a wonderful idea. A looser environment to chew the fat. Historically speaking, I think it’s a terribly tough time to be a man. Societal values and norms have shifted so drastically, broadly over the last 20 years and more narrowly in the last 5-7. Not easy.
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I enjoyed your comments, Cassie. And yes, Portia does keep us thinking. I like that. But anti-crap shield 😂, that expression is so you and, of course, brilliantly funny! Enjoy your perfume riches.
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I think everyone should invest in an anti-crap shield. Tons of uses😄 A handy object around the house. You sure Mr LH hasn’t got one pooched down in the basement?
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Hahaha. Well if he does it’s buried under piles of wood blocks (soon to be bird houses 🧐) It looks like he’s expecting a Jenga tournament to erupt at any moment.
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Cassie- the generation of today also suffers from lots of anxiety as well. The expectations are quite heavy and they are burdened with things I don’t ever remember being burdened with, especially with regard to getting into college, finances, the state of the economy, etc etc (at least this is the case in the States). To some extent I also feel that technology plays into that as well…lots of comparisons being made as well as fear of missing out and not being accepted/liked …it’s all out there online via social media. Definitely tough times for these youngins.
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I’d hate to be a teen nowadays.
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Me too. And how.
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Ditto this…..
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In my experience with men they so often have a hard time trusting anyone that it makes it harder to help with or treat the depression. I’ve had friends constantly going on and off meds without supervision, self-prescribing with doctors allowing it to happen, huge messes all around. I hope that is improving for the younger group.
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For me Guet apens or Indult Tihota work.
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Tihota is beautiful.
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Guet apens is just so amazing!
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First of all Portia, kudos to you for staying strong and overcoming your anxiety. I know it is not easy and I also realize it is a constant battle. Some of the perfumes that bring me joy in this manner are vintage Dior Homme and Lang Cuiron. I love the aura they create around me.
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Cuiron is so classy Fazal,
One day when we meet I hope to smell it on you.
Portia x
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I hope to remember to wear Cuiron when we meet!
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That’s a great Saturday question: what perfume would you wear for a big APJ Jamboree.
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OOO! I love this!!!
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original version of either Cuiron, Dior Homme, or Opium!
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I vote Opium 🙂
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Love that question Cassie!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I suffered from what I ultimately recognized as postpartum depression – just wasn’t diagnosed until my son was almost 2. I am much more “even” now- I do better when I cut sugar and grains from my diet, my mood is more stabilized. When my son was little I wasn’t really into perfume. These days when I’m feeling blue I reach for my Sonoma Scent Studio favorites – Forest Walk, Chsmpagne des Bois, Equestrian, Jour Ensoleille- something about Lauries perfumes just lifts my spirits.
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I agree…SSS fragrances are indeed mood lifters.
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I have had battles with depression and anxiety all my life, even had a nervous breakdown when I was 28 and spent six months on the couch, unable to do much of anything. Bullied as a child, withholding father, bad marriage & painful divorce, etc. Right now the battle is hormonal (menopause) which is a bitch and drags on for years. But I am grateful it has never gotten to the suicidal stage. I can manage it fairly well with meds and exercise. But I am sooo envious of those who don’t ever experience it. It sucks so much joy out of life and sometimes I get so tired of fighting.
I feel lucky to have perfume friends around the world who understand and we are there to support each other. It means a lot. So thank you Portia for providing this space! My cocooning scents are Ubar, Attrape-Coeur, Cuir Beluga and Incense Extreme.
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Oh I am so sorry Tara.
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Thank you Amy, I know you have your own battles and truly understand.
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I agree…perfume friends from around the world are a godsend….grateful that you are one of mine 🙂
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I am so grateful for you too. 🙂
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So wonderful to read all the comments of how fragrance brings comfort in so many ways. My Mom suffered from depression and I felt so helpless as a child not being able to help her. I have always lived with a good amount of anxiety. Fragrance is a comfort and cocoon for me, and I do wear scents to bring peace, calm, and tranquility. Chanel Coromandel is reached for the most.
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I first got really into perfume a few years back when I had the kind of depressive episode I thought I’d done enough therapy and had the meds to avert. I spent *a lot* of time that year lying in bed, reading perfume blogs, and sniffing. Pretty much all the time I wasn’t struggling to work. So pretty much *every* perfume is my cocoon. Special mention recently to Santal Nabataea, Ummagumma, Slowdive for pure comfort and Chanel, especially Misia for a forcefield around me for work.
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I’m glad you feel better now, Amy. Who could have known that something good could come from feeling lost (to say the least), and yet here we all are.
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I definitely can relate to the above posts. Perfume helped me with a very tough battle with anxiety. I had the beauty of the perfumes to focus on and was able to get a sense of shared community from perfume blogs. Perfume, along with good bakeries and good friends, helped motivate me to push through the anxiety and get out into the world :).
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I enjoyed everyone’s answers! At this time I could really need an anti-crap shield which in perfume terms would be a green, green scent. Being mindful of others at this care institution, most people 80+, I refrain from anything challenging. For the same reason my cocoon scent at this point is the Tauer Amber Flush perfumed body oil. Bonus: Softer skin.
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