Today on Perfume Posse: Rose + Cuir by Frédéric Malle 2019

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Portia

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Hey there APJ,

You may know that Thursday is my day to post on Perfume Posse. Every week over there I do some kind of fragrance review. As we don’t really do them here on APJ anymore I thought it might be nice to give you a heads up on what’s happening elsewhere.

Today on Perfume Posse

Rose & Cuir by Frédéric Malle 2019

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Elephant by Zoologist

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Narth

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Hello Friends, it’s Narth here reminiscing about one of my longest holy grails of scent. Not a particular bottle, but an idea in my head. I’m sure we’ve all had them, seeking a rose with that cold water dewy note, the patchouli that was the loamiest of loamy earth, actual salt (still never found that one). When an idea of a scent is stuck firmly in your head it can seem that nothing ever quite fulfills that desire. Some years ago mine was GREEN COCONUT. I loved coconut so much but I absolutely did not want to smell like a baked good. Smelling like a baked good sells, as can be seen by all the etsy scents, candles and perfume oils promising you will be wrapped in the warm aromas of a glazed brioche almond muffin with berries. People like this stuff and a lot of products do a very good job of replicating the decadent deliciousness of baked sweet treats. Sadly though I don’t have much of a sweet tooth either on my plate or my skin. My hunt for green coconut was constantly thwarted by vanilla.

My green coconut search did have a few hits. Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess was kind of okay, but it was more reminiscent of suntan lotion than that sharp, husky greenness of freshly opened coconut. The Body Shop had an extremely excellent coconut body cream which I went through multiple bottles of but despite their products having excellent sillage I am still a perfume person and I wanted that scent in a bottle. Their edt’s were flat, sour and ephemeral in comparison. For years I thought about what exactly my green coconut should smell like. What I really wanted was a coconut version of L’Artisan’s Premier Figuier. That slightly bitter, lactic, vegetal fig without a sugar stick in sight only not fig, coconut!

Zoologist Elephant 2017

Chris Bartlett

Top: Tea Leaves, Darjeeling Tea, Magnolia
Middle: Cocoa, Coconut Milk, Incense, Jasmine, Woods
Base: Amber, Musk, Patchouli, Sandalwood

In Zoologist Elephant I have now found what I believe is the closest I will get. I’d like the coconut to be more dominant but the coconut that is in there is gloriously, fragrantly, green!

Zoologist Elephant is a raw, linear scent that anyone seeking more more more green will appreciate. There’s the intense vegetation, the crushed coconut mixed underfoot with earth and broken leaves. It’s lactic. It’s cold. It’s not screechy or in your face. I wish I got the humidity some people mention, I wish I was truly in the jungle but for me this is a cooler clime sedate fragrance. If you’ve enjoyed green scents but find the vintage ones like Estee Lauder’s Aliage too intense or grating this may well be your answer. Zoologist fragrances often take me back to older era scents but they’ve been retooled and the more abrasive elements are gone, replaced by something quirky. I’ve been wearing Elephant for several days and I’m looking forward to trying it in the heat. But for now I’m happy that a decade old desire has unexpectedly been satisfied.

Have you had a note you’ve been searching for, ever hopeful you’ll find exactly what you dream of?

Bye for now, Narth xx

CQ Snippets From The Week That Was.

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Val the Cookie Queen

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Hi there y’all

Been an active couple of weeks here in the heart of the Austrian Salzkammergut.  We are busy moving apartments.  Amazing how much crap there is to throw away after living in one place for twenty-five years.  Luckily we are only moving about 400 meters away, so we have been steadily taking the stuff that we want to keep and setting the place up.  Once we have moved in we have two months to clear this place out.  We are serial renters.  Having chose to live an – uhm – rather wayward life up until our early thirties, we have never been a position to buy.   We already own the home that my husband grew up in, as his parents put it into our names about fifteen years ago, so renting is just fine.  His parents will continue to live in it until they turn their toes up.  And when it is eventually properly ours we will not have to pay inheritance taxes or whatever.  Planning ahead.

CQ Snippets From The Week That Was.

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SOTD 18.11 – 24.11.2019

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Portia

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Hi APJ,

A SOTD (Scent Of The Day) thread is a really good conversation generator. The idea is you’ll chime in through the week with whatever scent you are wearing. You don’t need to be super knowledgable, have high faluting tastes or be a published author to comment. Just tell us what fragrance you’re wearing, smelling, buying etc. and how it makes you feel and/or anything else about it that tickles your fancy.

You can also comment on everyone else choices too. It’s great to tell someone how much you love their choice, ask for more info about it, the house or perfumer. There’s someone here from around the world 24/7 and perfume people love to chat.

SOTD 18.11 – 24.11.2019
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Saturday Question: How Do You Perfume Budget?

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Portia

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Hello Fellow Fumies,

At APJ we have a Saturday Question. Everyone gets to chime in with an answer, chat with other responders and it’s a fun event each week. Taking sides never means taking offence and everyone keeps it respectful and light, even though we can sometimes trawl the depths.

The idea is you’ll see it on the weekend or chime in through the week. Hopefully you will come back regularly and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them. The aim is to generate real conversation and connection even though we are scattered around the globe.

 

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Perfume by Neil Chapman: In Search Of Your Signature Scent

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Portia

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Hey Crew,

Thinking Christmas? Want something totally fabulous but a little bit different?

Neil Chapman, longtime blogger under the guise of The Black Narcissus, has written a book about perfume and the finding of your signature scent, or scents. Anyone who reads TBN will already be acquainted with his spectacular prose and far flung knowledge realms, his posts can be utterly mind blowing and thought provoking and sometimes even just plain weird assed shit. He is a grand devotee of art and literature, lives in Japan and cruises the second hand perfume emporiums there grabbing the rarest vintage gems for peanuts. He is my perfumed spirit animal and I aspire to be more like him (without the book obviously).

Perfume by Neil Chapman

In Search Of Your Signature Scent

Perfume by Neil Chapman In Search Of Your Signature Scent

Neil thoughtfully sent me a Press Copy which took eternity to get to Australia. It was the day before the big London Launch Party that it finally arrived. I tore it open and immediately stated to read. GAWD! It’s so damn enjoyable. He drops the names of so many fragrances I know and love. Also things I’ve never heard of, by houses that are brand new to me. Well. you can imagine how excited that gets me. Furiously hitting Fragrantica to find out more, obvs. Even that makes it more fun. Like he’s leading me on a journey of discovery too.

Neil sets the scene, gives us some info. He then launches us into a catalogue of fragrance styles and some of his favourites in each category. Now I must warn you that lists are not exhaustive, it’s a taste of Neil’s taste. So you’re not allowed to get all huffy that your personal favourite isn’t mentioned, OK? We are merely flotsam in Neil Chapman’s fragrant thought stream and must go where he takes us. It’s actually a really fun way to do it. Like sitting at his house and you mention a fragrance style. He goes and gets his best of list of bottles for each style and you sit together and try them over a few drinks.

I’m not sure where you’ll be getting your copy from but look it up online and I reckon you will be able to order one.

It’s a fun window into fragrance by one of us, most enjoyable.

Portia xx

 

The was first posted on Perfume Posse with only slight alterations for APJ.