Contributors

What Would You Bring Baby Jesus?

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Guest Post by Jordan River

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Kia Ora AustralianPerfumeJunkies,

This is Jordan River from Way Down Under in New Zealand. I am the Fragrance Editor at Express Magazine and Portia writes our Fragrance column. I know you’ve discovered Portia. Here is how I found her. Earlier in the year I was reading graindemusc as you do, constantly, and noticed a comment from a Portia in Australia. Minutes later AustralianPerfumeJunkies was zoomin’ onto my screen at the very moment we were looking for a fragrance writer. 72 days later Portia was Published!
If you want more Portia in your life you can read her latest column here .

Noora, Nazareth and Gold

This season this magi is presenting Noora, Nazareth and Gold to the baby Jesus who is known as The Prophet Isa in the lands of frankincense and myrrh.

Noora is a mukhallat with rose, jasmine, marigold, mimosa, saffron, red berries, oud, sandalwood, musk and vanilla, none of which I can smell. Marketing Imagination. More like plum, orange, honey, ginger with a delightful zephyr of hyacinth. Very synthetic in the modern way but this Swish Arabian is also very enticing. So enticing that when I received a complimentary sample with another purchase from Saudi Arabia I ordered a full flacon the next day. And what a flacon! With a perfect applicator! Endure the shriek of an opening for a dazzling dry down which will have you camel riding, star following and hearing angels sing. Musette thought it was like an unidentifiable blossom dipped in wild honey but maybe she was describing herself? Noora means Divine Light.
You may also like Swiss Arabian’s Zahra. A Marigold Oriental. Sumukorento describes it thus; Like Egyptian musk oil + The Boucheron Trouble drydown. Love that. I thought Oils are all about constant reapplication, but no they are not.

Noora

Nazareth. This is a scent I discovered last year at a perfume masterclass in December. It stayed on my mind. Not realizing it was a seasonal release I couldn’t buy it in March when it was still blowing through the scentmills of my mind. Then just last week I was an hour early for a meeting and wandered into World where they were unpacking their annual supply of this scent. Nazareth is a candle by Cire Trudon, a Christmas candle which wafts a whisper of frankincense and billows of cinnamon, orange, and clove from a ruby red holder. Burn for a hour, an hour before you want a scented room. Trim that wick before reigniting. Bees and other pollinators receive protection from this candle as a percentage of sales goes to Terre d’Abeilles.

Nazareth

Gold – well I am going with the gold bukhoor burner to smeek some oud chips from Ensar.

gold

If you prefer ‘through alcohol’ rather than through smoke then Amouage Gold Man has been described as Chanel No. 5 for Men. And it is. Not me but I know an Australian DJ who will be receiving my unattended bottle. Hi Calvin.

Amouage Gold man

Perfumistas, what scented gifts would you bring to Bethlehem?
Wishing you, The APJ Family, Scent Serendipity this Season.

Magi

Waft on through the day , waft on through the night,
You’ll never waft alone on the world wide web.
Thank you for having me on and at APJ.

Jordan River x
All Photos supplied by author

Shopping:
Noora and Zahra can be found at http://perfume.zahras.com for $US15. This PDF based website is challenge to navigate!
The Nazareth candle is $NZ159 from World and World Beauty in New Zealand, $AUD105 from Peony in Melbourne who also deliver anywhere in Australia http://www.peonymelbourne.com.au/store-location or for international readers see http://www.ciretrudon.com/en/accueil.php
Oud Wood Chips for burning are periodically available at http://ensaroud.com/
Amouage Gold Man $342 from Libertine http://www.libertineparfumerie.com.au/amouage/gold-man/w1/i1013908_1001286/
Or sample from http://surrendertochance.com/amouage-gold-man/ for $3.99

Other reviews:
Noora and Zahra – already mentioned (Perfume Posse and Fragrantica)
Ensar Oud Wood Chips http://gaharu.com/showthread.php?50-What-s-on-your-burner-today/page2&highlight=Chips
Nazareth – http://notablescents.net/2012/01/28/cire-trudon-nazareth-candle-review/
Gold Man – http://www.basenotes.net/fragrancereviews/fragrance/26121740/p2

Spent Musket Oil by D.S. & Durga & BKLYN Dry Goods 2012

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Guest Post by Tim

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Hi Everyone,

A unique limited-edition collaboration between New York Retailer BKLYN Dry Goods and rising niche perfume stars DS & Durga? BKLYN Dry Goods, co-founded by Jahn Hall and Kurt Uhlendorf is a online and pop up mens apparel retailer specialising in vintage American fashion. The brand was born and bred by an insatiable curiosity and love of vintage. Tightly merchandised clothing, objects and curiosities sold on the site are a thoughtfully executed range of quality vintage offered at extremely fair prices. Inspiration for the fragrance was drawn from scented swing tags the company designed and created for their pop up store events in New York city and throughout the country.

Spent Musket Oil by DS & Durga / BKLYN Dry Goods

SpentMusketOil FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Leather, birchwood, tobacco, anise, spent rifle oil

An introduction between the two collaborators was made by Ulrich Lang, co creator of the Elements Showcase niche perfume exhibition when he chance discovered the scented tags at one of the brands early pop up events. Spent Musket Oil being a more grown up and polished version of the original swing tag aroma, is a standout first fragrance for the dry goods retailer. Its bottle beautifully customised in bound leather cord and stainless dog tags, stamped with BKLYN branding and the fragrance name, housed in a draw string bag with notes listed and spunky navy iconography. This is what hooked me line and sinker. I adore the packaging. The overall look and execution of the product is done with quality and a inspired design aesthetic.

Spent Musket Oil has been described by is creators as aggressive and masculine, it’s accords include dried leather hilt, vintage birch wood, cavendish tabac, anise, spent rifle oil and musk The opening of this fragrance is original and fitting to its name, calling to mind tarry black leather and the gun smoke that lingers from a freshly fired rifle. The anise is bitter sweet to start giving the introduction a sharp resinous aroma that adds a sticky liquorice like undertone to the leather rendering it polished to a high shine finish , not unlike buffed military boots with the smell of fresh boot polish warmed by friction and heat. The first shot is aggressive and tarry, only to promptly sweeten as the anise cuts through the birch wood, clearing the smoke and balancing out the bitterness which I have grown most fond of through repeated wearings.

BRKLNDryGoodsPhoto Stolen BRKLNDryGoods

The fragrance rearranges itself into rustic combinations of rich dense pipe tobacco, sweetened chewy liquorice with herbal clove nuances and spent rifle oil that give a synthetic industrial cleaning product aroma .The overtone is masculine and militant, playing up the rawness of its ingredient to deliver a fragrance that is relevant to the brands image and customer. Button up Flannelette shirts, multi pocketed utility vests and belted army pants tucked into distressed leather boots available on the brands online store suggest this fragrance is targeted towards a rugged outdoors type of man, or the trendy inner city urbanite wannabe version. He smells of tool boxes and garage grease, packing rolled tobacco pouches and aniseed throat lozenges. Fashion forward in carefully selected vintage statement pieces.

I find it near impossible to suggest a fragrance it reminds me of or is similar to, the closest I can articulate is an army disposal store, conjuring memories of rubber soles with leather uppers over well oiled rifles and hunting accessories . The fragrance life is fair. It grows softer and sweeter over the first few hours of wear presenting a moderate sillage for up to 3 hours. I feel the unfussy selection of ingredients makes Spent Musket Oil somewhat linear after the sting of the bullet has faded. With the birch wood charring the leather with a smoky character, it leaves minimal depth on the skin in the dry down. To me the fragrance life mimics the result of a fired gun , initially loud and ear piercing when the trigger is pulled, then into a descending echo, everything unfolding quickly. This is where I feel the fragrance falls short . The dry down is missing something to anchor it long term, more woods perhaps or some dirty patchouli could have stretched out this fragrance giving it more longevity and depth in the final stages of development. This I’m willing to over look in what is a brave and daring fragrance for both brands responsible for its creation.

Spent Musket Oil is available from BKLYN Dry Goods web site for $150 usd

See you in two weeks,

Tim xx

Lys Mediterranee by Edouard Flechier for Frederic Malle 2000

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Guest post by EmmaKate

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Hello hello fumies,

It is EmmaKate here to spoil you with fragrance for Christmas. One the first day of Christmas my true love gave to me a bottle of Lys Mediteranee… from Frederic Malle. 🙂 This particular fragrance appeals to me because of the fresh white flowers, sea water and green spice make this feminine without being at all cloying.

Lys Mediterranee by Frederic Malle 2000

nd.4640
Image from Fragrantica.
Fragrantica lists the notes for this scent as
Top: sea water and ginger
Heart: angelica, orange blossom, lotus and lily
Base: vanilla and musk.
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When I spray Lys Mediterranee by Frederic Malle it takes me to a beach side cliff where the white flowers grow. I feel the sun on my back with a cool breeze playing through my hair. It is like I an escape to a place we would all rather be.  It is the scent I could see myself wearing on my wedding day. Something fresh, beautiful, floaty, a little bit mysterious and long lasting, it makes me smile and lends a sense of contentment.
BrideBentley weheartit.Photo Stolen weheartit
It opens with a burst of lily with a true green edge, mellows out to let the sweetness shine through and becomes a mysterious blend upon dry down, almost powdery, yet not at all. Lys Mediterranee by Frederic Malle wears incredibly well on me and I am a renowned scent “drinker”. This is such a clean fragrance. I want to spray this in the middle of summer when I have come from the extreme humidity inside and don’t feel like a shower.
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This composition is an interesting choice, the combination of such fresh smells such as ginger and sea water combined with the white flowers makes sense, even the white flowers combined with the grounding warmth of vanilla and musk, it is the idea of these three together that gets me every time. The warmth and cool freshness is an interesting mix. To combine the ultimate in freshness, sea water, with the warmth of vanilla, is what truly sets this fragrance apart from all other lily fragrances.
Casablanca_Lily imagesofdannadsignPhoto Stolen imagesofdannadsign
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SurrenderToChance starts at $6/ml
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I hope you enjoy Lys Mediterranee by Frederic Malle as much as I do, or know someone in your life who will.
Have a very Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays 🙂
EmmaKate

Scented Niche Christmas Gifts to Impress

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Gabriella

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Ten Niche Scented Gifts for Christmas

Hello APJ friends! Hope you are all well and looking forward to the festive season.
When Portia suggested I compile a list of niche perfume Christmas picks, I was filled with a mixture of excitement and trepidation. Excited because I could get really creative and think outside the square and scared because, well, let’s face it, buying perfume for loved ones, let alone niche, is fraught with difficulties.
So, I have taken a deep breath and hopefully risen to the challenge. For ease, I’ve chosen more approachable scents and assumed price is no object. Enjoy!
1.   Dad: Bigarade Concentree by Frederic Malle
Bigarade concentree Frederic Malle for women and men
Jean Claude Ellena’s modern take on eau de cologne, Bigarade Concentree starts with piquant, zesty blood orange and aromatic cardamom notes before settling into soft orange and hay. This is as refreshing as a dip in an ice cold pool, but still a refined classic scent.
Notes: bitter orange, rose, cedar, grass and hay
2.   Mum: Antonia by Puredistance
Antonia Puredistance for women
Possibly the most beautiful and sublime release of 2012, Antonia is an intricately weaved green floral with galbanum, ivy and jasmine. The Antonia woman is intelligent, graceful, self assured and wise – the best qualities of Mums everywhere,
Notes: jasmine, rose essence, ylang ylang, orris, ivy greens, galbanum, vanilla and vetiver.
3.   Brother: Sunday Cologne by Byredo
Sunday Cologne Byredo for women and men
A slightly balmy and spicy scent, Sunday Cologne combines the freshness of bergamot with star anise, incense and lavender. Clean, cool and utterly debonair, this can be worn equally with a sharp suit or t-shirt and jeans.
Notes: cardamom, bergamot, star anise, lavender, geranium, incense, vetiver, patchouli and oakmoss.
4.   Sister: Nuit de Cellophane by Serge Lutens
Nuit de Cellophane Serge Lutens for women
A refined take on the standard fruity floral, Nuit de Cellophane combines osmanthus and jasmine to create a gorgeously translucent scent. Nuit de Cellophane is demure and pretty with just a hint of coquettishness.
Notes: mandarin, osmanthus, jasmine
5.   Significant other (Male): Amyris Pour Homme by Maison Francis Kurkdjian.
Amyris Homme Maison Francis Kurkdjian for men
Sex in a bottle. A blend of aromatic rosemary and mandarin tempered by cool iris and warm woody notes, Amyris is the tall, dark handsome stranger at a swanky bar who buys you an ice-cold martini before saying sotto voce: ’Come hither’.
Notes: rosemary, mandarin orange, amyris, coconut, coffee, iris, milk chocolate, tonka bean and agarwood.
6.   Significant other (Female): Flor Y Canto by Arquiste
Flor y Canto Arquiste for women
A bewitching white floral, Flor Y Canto tempers the heady notes of tuberose and frangipani with bright marigold. Sunny and carefree, but still devastatingly sexy, this is for a confident woman who doesn’t take herself too seriously.
Notes: Mexican tuberose, magnolia, frangipani and marigold
7.   For the budding perfumista friend: Frederic Malle’s Coffrets
frederic-malle_coffrets
In my opinion, Frederic Malle offers the best variety of all niche brands. These coffrets offer small vials of the brand’s scents: men’s, women’s or a 2012 selection. Your friend is sure to find new love, whether it’s the mint barbershop vibe of Geranium Pour Monsieur or the brooding oriental of Portrait of a Lady.
8.   For the friend that hates perfume:  Aqua Universalis Perfumed Candle by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Aqua Universalis Perfumed Candle
An impressive, weighty candle without an oppressive scent, Aqua Universalis is a fresh and delicate blend of green notes, orange blossom and jasmine.
Notes: bergamot, sicilian lemon, lily of the valley, sweet mock orange, light and musky woods
9.   For kids: Les Bulles d’Agathe by Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Les Bulles d'Agathe Scented Bubbles 3
These blowing bubbles are lightly scented with pear, violet, mint or cut herbs – fun for the little ones or just for the kid in all of us.
10.  Top niche Christmas pick: La Myrrhe by Serge Lutens
La Myrrhe Serge Lutens for women
In one of those coveted bell jars, Serge Lutens and his partner in crime Christopher Sheldrake have created a luminous rendition of myrrh – the essential oil and resin carried by the Three Wise Men. Warm aldehydes suggest the twinkle of Christmas lights on powdered snow while gentle spices and almond evoke the last bite of Christmas pud washed down with a glass of warm Amaretto.
Notes: mandarin, myrrh, lotus, bitter almond, sandalwood, honey, jasmine, amber, musk, various spices and pimento
Pictures sourced from Fragrantica, Basenotes, Polyvore and Wantist.
 
Where to Buy:
Arquiste: arquiste.com and Barney’s
Maison Francis Kurkdjian and Serge Lutens: Les Senteurs, Luckyscent and Mecca Cosmetica
Puredistance: Luckyscent
Serge Lutens bell jars: sergelutens.com and Barney’s
 
Hope you’ve enjoyed my picks. What are your top niche Christmas choices?
Love,
M x

Fleur No1 by Jessica Buchanan for 1000 Flowers 2011

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Guest Post by Dionne

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Fleur No1 by 1000 Flowers

Hey you great-smelling crowd, you!

It’s an honor to be here at Australian Perfume Junkies, and many thanks for Portia for inviting me to write a post. I’m the odd duck of Portia’s guest bloggers, as this is coming to you from the Great White North, aka the Canadian Rockies, where it’s white and hoarfrost-y and brisk as all get-out right now. However, my lovely mother-in-law was Australian, so I’m sorta-related through marriage and hoping y’all will grant me pretend-Aussie status. (It’s on my bucket list to visit someday.)

My initial plans for a first review got thrown out the window upon the arrival of an anticipated sample about two weeks ago.  At the end of October I’d bought myself a larger bottle of Réglisse Noir, a stunning licorice floral that is one of the most unique and elegant perfumes in my collection, and figured I‘d throw a sample of Fleur No 1 into the cart for curiosity’s sake. Both perfumes are from the line 1000 Flowers, a Canadian indie brand created by perfumer Jessica Buchanan. The artisanal perfume scene is not as big in Canada as it is in Australia but we’ve got some neat lines, and in my opinion Jessica is a nose worth watching.

I don’t typically sample green frags anymore, as I did a massive exploration of the note about a year and a half ago at the request of my other half, The Engineer, who is a sucker for the smell of freshly-cut grass. After several months and lots of vials, I found my top three (Silences, Bel Respiro and Heure Exquise, if you’re wondering) and figured I was done. Boy was I wrong. Fleur No 1 is different from anything I’ve tried before, and changed my top three greens to a top four. This is a big deal for me, because I like things all neat and tidy, and “trio of greens” sounds so very prime number-ish and aesthetically pleasing, but what could I do? Fleur just wouldn’t take no for an answer.

FleurNo1 FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Green notes, galbanum, narcissus, hyacinth, iris, magnolia and violet

So, how does this beauty smell? There’s an initial hit of galbanum similar to the beginning of Silences, but it’s a bit softer in Fleur No 1. After about ten minutes the spring flowers join in, mainly narcissus and hyacinth, with just a hint of earthiness. Envision a child clutching a freshly picked bouquet of flowers snatched out of the bulb garden that she really wasn’t supposed to pick complete with lots of leaves and the root ball still attached and she’s trailing clumps of dirt into the house and aren’t they pretty and I picked these for you because I love you mummy…………. yeah, that’s pretty much it. (I sound like I’m speaking from experience, don’t I?)

Fleur No1 by 1000 Flowers Holding Hands mcconnmama PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Further reading CaFleurBon

1000Flowers eBoutique sells Fleur No 1 15ml @ $33.75. They also have a great Sample Program
IndieScents also stock 1000 Flowers

In my experience there are pretty perfumes, and there are interesting perfumes, but not a lot of pretty perfumes that are also interesting. Fleur No 1 walks that tightrope and does it beautifully. And I’m happy to report that due to some shameless begging on my part, Sons #2 and #3 are putting this under the tree for me for Christmas. Wheeee!

Till next month,
Dionne x

Orange Essential Oil – Christmas Gift Ideas

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Guest Post by Suzanne R Banks

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Hello Australian Perfume Junkies, Suzanne from SuzanneRBanks. I have been asked by Portia to come by and explain how essential oils have been used through the ages and some of their history and aromatherapy uses.

Orange Essential Oil

The Sweetness and Innocence

Photo Stolen GrowersOwn

One of the loveliest and simplest essential oils is that of orange. It gives you the direct experience of the fruit the moment you smell it. There is no denying that on taking your first big whiff straight from the bottle, your senses are enlivened – even your mouth may start to water with anticipation of the real thing.

Orange oil is sweet, light and tingly. It’s easy for the brain to identify and therefore appeals to so many types of beings. Kids love it. It is a wonderful oil to use with the elderly. Pets respond wonderfully to orange essential oil when it’s vapourised. Orange oil is an oil of innocence and joy. It gets straight to the point when you employ it.

And what about the colour of an orange? Nature is really amazing when you think about it. The colour orange is vibrant and cheery and relates to the second chakra “Svadhisthana”. This chakra actually means “sweetness” and is concerned with attracting another, procreation, sexuality and desire. The way I see it, the colour and scent of orange, allows us to open to the joy of the sweetness in life; a sweetness that can be amplified when we connect with others and share experiences.

orange gardenofeadenPhoto Stolen GardenOfEaden

Using orange oil

Vapourise -To spread a little bit of happiness, vapourise some orange oil in your home. You don’t have to have a machine or oil burner you can simply boil water, throw about 15 drops into a bowl, and when you pour the water into the bowl, magic happens. This may help kids settle down, and help you experience a moment of bliss.

Put a few drops onto a cotton pad and put it in your car. How easy is that?

In a body oil – orange oil is lovely in a nourishing body oil blend as the acids from the rind can help brighten the skin, and remove old skin cells.

Try this for a happy, centering oil blend for yourself:

“I Am Awesome”
3 teaspoons of a carrier oil like almond, jojoba, grapeseed
5 drops of orange oil
3 drops of lavender
Then lavishly spread all over your body!

To make an oil blend as a gift you will need to have a bottle and lid. Just have a look on the internet, even ebay shops sell them. Literally search for “amber bottles” and that will get you on the right track. You will need an amber, blue or green bottle, as the dark colours help prevent oil oxidation. Follow the quantities here:

25ml bottle use a total of 12 drops of oil
50ml bottle use a total of 25 drops of oil
100 ml bottle use a total of 50 drops of oil

Can you see a pattern forming? These are standard ratios and if you live in a country that isn’t metric … oh dear, you’ll have to figure out the calculations yourself.

Here are a couple of recipes for a 25ml oil blend using orange oil:

“Delicious & Cute”
7 drops of orange
3 drops geranium
2 drops patchouli

“Universe”
6 drops orange
5 drops cypress
1 drop cardamom

If it all seems a bit too hard, eat an orange! Not only will you get great nutrition, you’ll be having an aromatherapy treatment at the same time!

You can find me at my blog SuzanneRBanks or on FB https://www.facebook.com/suzannerbanks.com.au

Thanks for reading, See you next month,

Suzanne

Bringing Grandma Up To Date At Christmas: A Gift Guide

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Guest Post by Tim

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With the Christmas gift shopping window of opportunity slowly getting smaller in the lead up to Christmas do you get stuck on what to buy? Perhaps you do a Chris Cringle like my family. Sometimes I am wandering aimlessly around under pressure, amongst holiday crowds scratching my head thinking of what they would like.Out of all the people in my family I buy for it’s my Grandma that I find I am at my most inspired when things need to be wrapped and under the tree by the 25th. Bless her heart, she excitedly accepted my presents given over the years. Sometimes fragrant, sometimes not. This year I’m

Bringing Grandma Up To Date

Photo Stolen TheBookwood

I’ve been referencing the past to find new interpretations and variations on the popular and classic fragrances that were trending at a time when our grandmas were becoming women. I have included some new flankers of vintage classics from iconic houses and beautiful compositions she will relate to and make a new connection with. These are a festive selection of fragrances suitable for a woman.

EauPremier stylefrizzPhoto Stolen Stylefrizz

Chanel,  No 5 Eau Premiere 2008 by Jaques Polge. An inspired choice for a Classic Alderhydeic floral. Fresher and lighter on the  Alderhydes,  it strips away time and date,  softening the edges and modernising the famous formulation. Eau premier presents a little rosier than iconic No 5. Grasse grown jasmine,  neroli and ylang ylang from the Comoro Islands keep it luxe. Generous in 125 ml bottle .

Photo Stolen dezire

Chanel, Crystal eau Vert 2009 by Jaques Polge. Introducing an ozonic citrus white floral. Retaining the original ‘honeysuckle’ accord and adding magnolia with abstract white flowers, 1974 classic Crystal has been given a breath of fresh air, greener and cleaner. Sicilian lemon noticeably flaring on opening, quickly settling into a powdery green heart that wears fresh and cool, this to me feels perfect for summer.

Photo Stolen ThePerfumeShop

Christian Dior, Les Creations de Monsieur Dior, Dioressence 2009 original by Guy Robeert. Everything old is new again  is the theme song of this classic chypre. Representing a review on a vintage edition, Dioressence presents a timeless opus of Dior which resists time and trends. An olde worlde opening of alderhydes under tart citrus which fades to a bouquet of violet, tuberose, jasmine, carnation, Lily of the valley , ylang and iris root. I’m hoping for a bottle too. Hint hint.

Photo Stolen TheMakeUpDivas

Estée Lauder Private Collection, Jasmine White Moss  2009 by Aerin Lauder , nose Jean Mark Chaillan. Hardly stock standard or obvious, this release is packing earth moss and wet woods. Rumour has it this is an unfinished fragrance from 1980, there are subtle hints of jasmine floating through this superb mossy green floral. New notes added by Aerin are mandarin and black current absolute, this is a fragrance created to honour heritage and family tradition.

Photo Stolen CHANEL

Chanel, No 19 Poudre 2011 by Jaques Polge. A new directions for this classic green alderhydeic floral. Sheer powder, more balmy and musky. Iris  is the angle on the tree in this rendition of my personal favorite No 19. Poudre is adorned with jasmine, galbanum, vetiver and hyacinth which subtly floats into a soft focus musk with sweet tonka bean. My favourite Chanel flacon.

Photo Stolen Escentual

Guerlian,  Shalimar  Parfum Initial 2011 by Thierry Wasser.  Entirely representing the outer trappings of the original and giving it rose coloured glasses. It’s vaguely related to the famous Shalimar, but think of it as the basics rethought,  while still being able to tie it back to the original. No dirty bits to be found anywhere with white musk , Wasser uses  popular iris paired with nutty almond nuances, over time drying down to  woods and amber; less smokey and vanillic than the original.

Photo Stolen Clemence-cahu

Yves Saint Laurent, Opium Vapeurs de Parfum 2012. The tender salmon pink bottle that was once home to super elixir Opium. Pink pepper in the opening gives it initial sparkle, orange blossom and mandarin take it up a notch as the oriental citrus incense becomes gentle and caressing. The Vapeurs edition has  less spice than the original and is thankfully low on the sugary calories.

Lancôme,  La Vie est Belle 2012 by Oliver Polge, Dominique Ropion and Anne Phillip. The latest mainstream release representing the gourmand sweet fruitchouli  category. With three noted noses behind its release, 5000 claimed variations  and given a three year probation you would hope ‘life is beautiful’ with this latest from Lancôme.  Well I can say it is,  grown up and  elegant. Feeling over all polished in it’s composition, reflected through the pretty glass bottle design. Heart notes praline and patchouli mix festively with vanilla and the almond-like accords in the base pushing it well into a gourmand territory.

See you in a fortnight,

Tim XX

Givrine by Evelyne Boulanger for E.Coudray (1950, 2004)

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Gabriella

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I am hoping for a long, hot summer down here in Sydney. Judging from the wet, cold and dire spring weather we’ve had over the past few weeks, I’m afraid my hopes might be in vain, but that doesn’t mean my olfactory choices can’t reflect a sense of optimism.

I’ve therefore been compiling scents for sweltering and humid conditions as summer temperatures can sometimes reach the high 30 or low 40-degree celsius mark come January. When you have had a long day, all you want to do is peel off damp work clothes, have a cool shower, turn up the air conditioning and slip on a soft cotton t-shirt and shorts. On days and nights like these, I want my perfume to be light and fresh, but still devastatingly feminine and pretty.

Givrine by E.Coudray (1950, 2004)

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Kumquat, bergamot and watermelon
Heart: Peony, gardenia, violet and lily-of-the-valley
Base: Sandalwood, patchouli, musk and white woods.

Enter Givrine by E. Coudray, a soft floral citrus perfume that sounds like the perfect thing for such needs. Les Senteurs even describes it as “the perfect summer holiday perfume – fresh and carefree and exhilarating”. The scent was originally launched in 1950 and then reissued in 2004 by perfumer Evelyne Boulanger. There’s very little information about Givrine, and discrepancies in notes lists. I was expecting a scent that was soft and clean. I was, however, thoroughly unprepared for Givrine’s supreme elegance and classical beauty.
It opens with a vibrant accord of mandarin and bergamot, so rich and lush, it speaks of old-school sophistication and grand chypres of yesteryear. The rose then comes to life – a rich red rose – with the citrus notes making it velvety and bright. The citrus fades rather quickly and the rose note is then underscored by powdery violets and peony. The florals here are all boudoir: a ballgown on a chaise longue, silk stockings, softly lit dressing table, crystal perfume bottles and jewellery boxes filled with strands of pearls.
Photo Stolen visit-the-farm
The effect also recalls the times when perfume rituals were taken seriously and women bathed in bath oil and sprinkled talcum before dabbing on the matching parfum. The result is a fragrant mille-feuille of dozens of soft petals gently caressing warm skin. The petals aren’t the colours of a vibrant rainbow, but the most delicate lilacs and pinks of a Monet painting. The rose-violet accord is accentuated by a hint of gardenia, the dry down a mellow skin scent of soft woods.
Givrine brings back memories of when I was a teenager. I was obsessed with fashion and would spend my pocket money on huge tomes of sea-freighted US Vogue, wide-eyed over the Chanel ads and pictures of Linda, Christy and Naomi. My parents, for various Christmases and birthdays, also bought me all the books in the Vogue “decades” series: “The 1930s in Vogue” and so on. Givrine to me is the “The 1950s in Vogue”. It’s not a femme fatale of the era like Jane Russell or Marilyn Monroe, but rather the smooth, feline curves of a Hitchcock blonde.
Photo stolen sensibility
Givrine is also the demure little sister to the pin-up diva of Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose. Both feature a central rose-violet accord, but the grapefruit and vetiver in Lipstick Rose gives it more lushness and vibrancy. Givrine’s powdery woodiness is somewhat more sedate and refined.
It’s not my first choice for a “t-shirt-after-a-shower” fragrance but would help me keep my poise during a blisteringly hot work day.
For more reviews, please see Fragrantica and Now Smell This, which reviews the original version.
Givrine is available at Les Senteurs and at Madame B in Melbourne as well as many other places worldwide, according to the E. Coudray website.
Samples from Les Senteurs are £5, while the 100ml EDT is £63.
Have you tried Givrine? What’s your favourite rose or violet fragrance? What’s your perfume of choice when the heat just gets that little too much?
With much love till next time!
M x

10 Celebrity Scents for Christmas

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 18 Comments
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Guest Post by Katrina
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Hi APJ
Katrina from CelebrityPerfumeStore with a big thank you to Portia and the crew for welcoming me to the APJ family and giving me the opportunity to share with you my obsession with celebrity perfumes.
10 celebrity scents from 2012 to help with your Christmas shopping.  I’ve started with sweet “fruitchouli“ scents for any younger readers. The fragrances become less juvenile as the list goes on and you will find perfumes to suit more mature tastes.

10 Celebrity Scents for Christmas

1. Selena Gomez by Selena Gomez
Selena Gomez is the first perfume by Selena Gomez who has appeared in a number of children’s movies and is Justin Bieber’s ex-girlfriend.  Selena Gomez is the sweetest, fruitiest option with barely a hint of a floral note.
Top: raspberry, orange, pineapple, peach
Heart: Freesia, Cosmone musk, dewberry
Base: vanilla, amber, chocolate, coconut
2. Justin Bieber’s Girlfriend
In case you have been living under a rock the last few years, Justin Bieber is the pop singing tween idol from Canada.  Justin Bieber’s Girlfriend is his second offering.  Girlfriend is similar to the first Justin Bieber perfume called Someday but the fruity opening is lighter and fresher than Someday and the creamy floral notes in the original have been played down. The young celebrity couple only recently split so you might need to check who’s on Team Bieber or Team Gomez.
Top: mandarin, blackberry, pear, strawberry
Heart: Freesia, star jasmine, apricot, orange blossom
Base: vanilla orchid, musk, white amber
3. Wonderstruck Enchanted by Taylor Swift
Wonderstruck Enchanted is the second fragrance from country singer Taylor Swift.  It is sweet, fruity and girly and comes in a gorgeous red bottle with charms around the neck.
Top: wild berries, pink poppy, passionfruit
Heart: peony blossoms, sugar-glazed champaca petals, freesia
Base: white musk, vanilla, blonde woods
4. Pink Friday by Nicki Minaj
For Nicki Minaj fans.  Honestly who else would want that perfume bottle staring at them from their dresser?  Pink Friday starts out sweet and fruity then moves on to jasmine and finishes up with soft vanilla and caramelised pear.
Top: star fruit, Italian mandarin and boysenberry
Heart: Lotus, jasmine
Base: caramelized pear, vanilla, musk, woody notes
5. Britney Spears Fantasy Twist
Pop-singer Britney Spears needs no introduction.  She is currently a judge on the X-Factor in the US and is cashing in on her renewed popularity with a new fragrance release.  Fantasy Twist by Britney Spears is two fragrances in one – neither of them new.  The original Fantasy in the pink half and Midnight Fantasy in the blue half.  Fantasy is a rich delicious gourmand perfume and Midnight Fantasy is lighter and fruitier.
6. Lady Gaga FAME
FAME by Lady Gaga was the biggest celebrity perfume release for 2012 and I’m sure there are plenty of little monsters that would be willing to get out of bed on Christmas morning for this one.
Notes: Belladonna, incense, honey drops, saffron, apricot, Sambac jasmine, tiger orchid
7. Nicole by Nicole Richie
Nicole Richie’s Nicole would make a lovely gift because it comes in a beautiful bottle and the perfume is easy to wear with a citrus opening leading to soft patchouli.
Top: blackberries, oranges
Middle: golden amber, Moroccan rose, lily of the valley, papyrus
Base: cashmere, sandalwood, sugared patchouli, vanilla absolute
Watch my review on YouTube.
8. Elixir by Shakira
Elixir is a gorgeous earthy woody fragrance.  We have well and truly moved on from “fruitchouli” territory here.  I’ll be reviewing this one soon.
Top: orange blossom, black pepper
Middle: peony, freesia, peach
Base: amber, musk, styrax, brown sugar, white cedar extract
9. Kate Walsh Billionaire Boyfriend
What single girl wouldn’t appreciate a Billionaire Boyfriend for Christmas?  Billionaire Boyfriend is the follow up to Kate Walsh’s original Boyfriend, which received some great reviews.  Billionaire Boyfriend is richer and heavier than the original.
Top: bergamot, tangerine, green leaves
Heart: black jasmine, velvet orchid, gardenia, patchouli flower
Base: amber
Here is a review of Billionaire Boyfriend at Musings of a Muse.
10. Truth or Dare by Madonna
For Mum.   Truth or Dare by Madonna is anything but a typical celebrity perfume and targeted at a more mature audience.
Top: gardenia, creamy tuberose, neroli
Heart: jasmine, benzoin, white lily
Base: vanilla absolute, caramelized amber, musk
Thanks for reading and taking a look at the wacky world of celebrity perfumes.  Please check our blog (http://celebrityperfumestore.com/) or vlog (https://www.youtube.com/user/CelebrityPerfume?feature=mhee) more celebrity perfumes.
Happy Shopping
Katrina xx
Where to buy:
FragranceX.com has Selena Gomez (50ml for $33), Lady Gaga FAME (50ml for $60.52), Nicole Richie (100ml for $36) and Madonna’s Truth or Dare (75ml for $60.99).
FragranceShop.com has Nicki Minaj Pink Friday (100ml $58.95), Lady Gaga FAME (50ml for $53.45) and Shakira Elixir (50ml for $36).
Kate Walsh Billionaire Boyfriend is exclusive to HSN.
Justin Bieber Girlfriend and Taylor Swift Wonderstruck Enchanted are available from shops in the US (Sephora), Australia (Myer) and the UK (The Perfume Shop)
All notes and photos stolen Fragrantica

Grab Bag LIVE Video Sniff

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 19 Comments

Hey Happy Huffers,

Today EmmaKate and I take a little look at 3 entirely different perfumes, not only in scent but in price and availability. As usual we only give you the top notes and development is left for full posts which may happen in the future.

If we have made mistakes, left anything out or generally have misfired in any way, please leave us a message in the comments so everyone else can have a good laugh at us too. We don’t mind but we do like be put straight when we’re wrong.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Jennifer Aniston (NOT- Lolavie) – Jennifer Aniston 2010
Fragrantica gives these featured accords
Top: Citruses, rose
Heat: Jasmine, violet, lily
Base: Musk, sandalwood, amber

Photo Stolen fragrantica

Amber Oud – by Killian 2011
Fragrantica gives these featiured accords in one line:
Amber, oud, Madagascar vanilla, benzoin from Laos

Photo Stolen news.bbc.co.uk

Jackeroo – Bud Parfumes by Howard Jarvis
Fragrantica gives only the note leather
Buy Jackeroo $20/10ml at Bud Parfums

This week we have some really exciting stuff happening on the blog. I hope you come back and have a squiz,
Loads of love,
Portia xx