L’Heure Attendue by Henri Almeras for Jean Patou 1946

February 9, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 11 Comments

Post by Greg Young

When I visit op shops and second hand shops, I make a habit of scanning the place for bottles and fragrances, just in case. Mostly I find used minis of varying levels of desirability. Sometimes, very occasionally, luck can be a lot more generous. I was idly browsing through the cabinets in an antiques market a while ago. My eye was originally drawn to a large full flacon of Monsieur Rochas, which sadly turned out to only have coloured water in it. As I idly scanned the rest of the cabinet, I noticed this nestled amongst a few other nondescript empty bottles.

L’Heure Attendue by Henri Almeras for Jean Patou 1946

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Basenotes reviewer gives these notes:
Top: Lily-of-the-valley, geranium, lilac
Heart: Ylang-ylang, jasmine, rose, opopanax
Base: Mysore sandalwood, vanilla, patchouli

L’heure attendue. The time that we’ve been waiting for. The name of this perfume celebrates the liberation of France from the Nazi occupation.

After many years of rationing and deprivation during the war years, the Parisian design houses burst forth with an exuberance that was designed to make people forget the hard times, and revel in finally having access to an abundance of pretty and beautiful things one again. Dior’s New Look of 1947 typified this trend, using swathes of previously scarce fabrics to create an ornate and romantic new fashion. The elegant amphora design of the original Miss Dior bottle also echoed a move towards the ornate from wartime-induced privation.

(Photo credit http://www.dior.com/magazine/ge_de/News/Miss-Dior-Staying-In-Line)

In the same sentiment, the house of Jean Patou released L’heure Attendue in 1946. As the photos show, the bottle was highly ornate and luxurious. This formulation of L’heure Attendue is very rare, being discontinued around 1956. As you can see, the bottle is intact, with even some of the decorative tassel left, and the stopper still fits tight. The bottle’s curves and detailing show clear influences of Art Deco design, but moving slightly in Dior’s direction; the stopper bears comparison with Dior’s, but I think Dior’s amphora design uses a feminine styling that reflected Dior’s wasp-waisted models, whereas Patou’s 1946 bottle design is clearly influenced by the geometric sweeps and fine detailing of classic Art Deco designs such as the Chrysler Building.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

The box is in good shape apart from some peeling, but significant staining has occurred on the front. Shame, because it can’t be hidden if you want to display the interior of the packaging (which I do). I suppose I could always imagine that this is an antique coffee stain left by some chic French lady sipping cafe au lait on the Champs-Elysee. Like the bottle, this is very much an Art Deco design, but a lot plainer and more utilitarian. The cream, gold and royal blue of the packaging is very elegant, and complements the much more ornate bottle styling very well.

Most of the perfume remains in bottle. The colour of the juice is a deep amber and still looks attractive enough, compared to the inky murk of the vintage Gilvo I wrote about a while back on APJ. The juice is consistent and there are no sediments. Without another bottle to compare to, I can’t really say if this is the colour it is supposed to look like. I suspect not, as some degradation has almost certainly occurred in the 50-60 years since this was opened.

It’s described on Fragrancenet as a floral chypre. When I sniff my bottle, I get a big, deep blast of what seems to me to be rich, white florals; I think what I am smelling are the heart notes, made richer by the sweet myrrh. It seems very old-fashioned and feminine, but there doesn’t seem to be anything there that you would find objectionable. Not being a connoisseur, it’s a bit hard for me to say.

This perfume is so extremely feminine that I’m simply not game to wear it, so I can’t tell you if the base notes are intact. I guess I will need a Melbourne-based femme to volunteer and help me write a postscript to this story.

Further reading: The Non Blonde and Perfume Shrine

Greg X

N.B. All photos by the author unless otherwise stated.

Still Life by Dora Baghriche-Arnaud for Olfactive Studio 2011

February 6, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 11 Comments

Post by TinaG

Hi APJ,

One of the many blessings in my life is having whole new landscapes of experience opened up to me through investigation of fragrance. In a lot of respects I still feel very much like a “newbie” and can’t believe how lucky I am when friends drop the topic of perfume into a conversation, or hand me a sample, or take the long way round to lunch through a few shops to try new things. Portia kindly gifted me with a sample set from Olfactive Studio, who are a niche perfume company run by Founder and Creative Director Céline Verleure, with headquarters in Paris. The sample set included Autoportrait, Still Life, Chambre Noir, and Lumière Blanche.

Still Life by Dora Baghriche-Arnaud for Olfactive Studio 2011

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Yuzu, elémi, pink pepper, black pepper, Sichuan pepper
Heart: Star anise, galbanum
Base: Dark rum, cedarwood, ambrox

Usually when I am looking into new perfumes, I’ll do a bit of research on ingredients and accords and work out what it is that I “should” be finding. This time I decided to take a different approach, and to test cold, to see what story the fragrance was going to tell me. First perfume out of the box was Still Life.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

On first spray I encounter a bright harmony of sharp and sweet citruses and peppery notes, containing something slightly resiny and green. Although the top notes in Still Life are full of pepper – pink, black and Sichuan, they are balanced as a supportive counterpoint rather than a triple-barrelled shotgun. After half an hour some warmer notes come through, and all of a sudden I have an image in my head of the inside of an old school desk draw, cedarwood with the ink and pencils and paper that it holds.

Photo Stolen Wikipedia

Traditionally in life drawings, “Still Life” subjects are typically fruit or flowers, but the warmth of the drydown as the citrus fades brings a feeling that the fruit bowl has now been overlooked, gently moved to one side for a subject with softer curves and skin. At four hours, I get a sense of focused calmness. There is a lot of wood and furniture, sunlight falling thick with dusty flecks through a closed window, and a female model posing half reclined on a soft sofa. But there is such an intense presence of that moment in time – she being relaxed, daydreaming but enjoying being observed, and the artist who is showing appreciation of her curves with every stroke of the pencil. However, the purpose of the moment is also its totality, and there is no sense of time passing – there is no before or after, no anticipation of “what next”. Just this rich, warm, sensual atmosphere captured in a bubble of time.

Photo Stolen Ben Sutherland Flickr

So, here I am in the middle of the day, overwhelmed and slightly disorientated by the strength of the image that this fragrance has managed to evoke. But how? How has that kind of beautiful false memory been triggered? One of the basenotes in Still Life, ambrox, I’m not at all familiar with so I do some research. Perfume Shrine describes ambrox: “(ambrox)…oscillates between an impression of ambergris (salty, smooth, skin-like), creamy musky & labdanum-like …something that smells warm, oddly mineral and sweetly inviting… approximating a person’s aura rather than a specific component…” Wow. That quite accurately explains how this story unfolded for me with Still Life. What a wonderful ride.

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Scentrist
Olfactive Studio has €85/50ml
LuckyScent has $195/100ml
Surrender To Chance has $20/the boxed set of four 1.2ml manufacturers samples

Tina G

CO2 Extracts and Extraction Simplified

February 5, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 5 Comments

Post by Suzanne R Banks

Hi APJ,

CO2 Extracts and Extraction Simplified

Photo Stolen thewellnessdoer

When we talk about essential oils, it’s often an umbrella term for many different kinds of aromatic liquids.

Essential Oils

These are usually water/steam distilled, and this is the most common way to date that oils are extracted. All the oils you would commonly buy today would be steam and water distilled and this process is simple, traditional and dates back through the past century.

Absolutes

These are usually made flowers or very delicate plants where a chemical extraction process is used (see my article Absolutes? Not Absolutely) but they resemble essential oils in viscosity and are used in the same way as essential oils. They tend to be more concentrated then essential oils.

Oleoresins and Resinoids

These are highly concentrated liquid extracts that are a combination of resins and aromatic oils. The plants they come from have a high resin content so they fall into their own category. Once again they can be used in the same way as essential oils.

Photo Stolen Cottonseed Oil Flickr

CO2 Extracts

CO2 Extraction is also called Super-critical CO2 extraction and it produces a couple of plant products – extracts or selects, and totals.

A relative newcomer in the world of extraction, the name makes it sound bad but it’s not! There are lots of good things about this process and I’ll try to sum it up briefly and succinctly.

The extraction process uses carbon dioxide heated to a degree where it has both liquid and gaseous properties- this part is the super-critical part. It’s less hot them steam and water distillation so this is a bonus as it doesn’t change the plant materials as much. It’s this liquid form that extracts the volatile plant material. Aromatic oils, resins and other cellular materials like pigments are extracted by the liquid CO2 which evaporates easily, leaving a substance that more closely resembles the plant.

CO2 extracts more closely aromatically resemble the whole plant, whereas essential oils are specifically the volatile oil component of the plant.

CO2 extracts may be better scent wise, or less attractive. It depends on the plant.

Some CO2 extracts that are now available are –
ambrette, cardamom, cinnamon, coriander, clove, nutmeg, caraway, fennel, ginger
sea buckthorn
amaranth
cocoa, coffee, vanilla
pomegranate
evening primrose, rosehip
chamomile, champaka, ginger lily, jasmine, juniper, linden blossom, patchouli
arnica, calendula, lavender, hops, St Johns wort,
angelica root, orris root, kava
agarwood, frankincense, galbanum, myrrh, spikenard

I don’t use CO2 extracts extensively in my practice yet, as many of the extracts are semi-solid and aren’t easy to work with. It seems some of the extracts are better suited to using in creams and lotions. As I move more into the area of natural perfumery I know I’ll use some of the extracts more often. I haven’t actually spent the time looking at the analysis of each oil, which will indicate the therapeutic property of the “oil”.

According to Nature’s Gift, “totals” are a secondary product of the CO2 process: “are usually thick and pasty due to the beneficial fats, resins and waxes they contain that come from the plant material itself. These totals are soluble in essential oils and vegetable oils. …. These potent extracts are wonderful for cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. The Calendulas extract, for example, in a dosage of 2 grams extract to 1000 grams ointment is effective for it’s anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial activity.”

None of my suppliers in Sydney provide these “totals” and I don’t have first hand knowledge of how they work – but it sounds interesting!

Good luck with the CO2 extracts!

Suzanne R Banks XXX

Suzanne R Banks Blog
Suzanne R Banks Aromatherapy
Suzanne R Banks FaceBook

Below you’ll find an extremely interesting video.

Supercritical CO2 extraction of cinnamon, coffee, and vanilla with dry ice

Rose Volupté + Winter Woods by Laurie Erickson for Sonoma Scent Studio

February 3, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 8 Comments

Post by Brie

Hello APJ,

Here are a couple of my favourite cool weather pairings, yes I know it’s summer in Australia.

Perfume & Tea Musings

Sonoma Scent Studios: Tulsi Tea: Wissotzky Tea

Organic India Tulsi Cinnamon Rose Tea
SSS Rose Volupte

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Rose, plum, amber, labdanum absolute, sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, heliotrope, clove, cinnamon, oakmoss, subtle aldehydes

Holy basil, or tulsi, is a herb renowned in India for its health benefits. Out of all the tulsi teas from this line, Cinnamon Rose is one of my favorites. It combines holy basil with the delicate note of rose and spicy cinnamon and, with a dash of honey, it is so soothing. When I drink it I can instantly feel myself relax. SSS Rose Volupte has that same effect on me.

Photo Stolen VitaminGrocer

Although I usually do not gravitate towards rose dominant scents, I make exception with Rose Volupte. When I press my nose to my wrist this ambery, honeyed, spicy, rose perfume instantly comforts me.

I imagine myself on a rainy day, curled up on the couch reading Bronte, wearing Rose Volupte and sipping Tulsi Cinnamon rose tea: aahhhh…….

Wissotzky Bedouin Chai Tea
SSS Winter Woods

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Guaiac wood, cedar, sandalwood, birch tar, cade, oakmoss absolute, castoreum, amber, labdanum absolute, vetiver, ambergris, musk.

Bedouin Chai tea was gifted to me and after the first sip I immediately purchased four boxes. As a blend of black tea, sage leaves and cardamom one would imagine this to be a loud, herbaceous monstrosity. Although it is bold at the onset (I brew it for a full five minutes) when combined with a dollop of organic raw honey and fresh cream it becomes utterly smooth and mellow. Bedouin Chai is quickly becoming my favorite tea, the one I want to drink daily.

Photo Stolen worldofjudaica

Similarly, when I first read the perfume notes in SSS Winter Woods I envisioned an over the top smoky, tarlike, animalistic cacophony. Au contraire! On my skin, Winter Woods is a complex, richly satisfying dry vanilla with wood notes (there is no vanilla listed but Laurie tells me that the amber may be imparting that vanilla-esque quality).

Sitting in front of a roaring fire with my hubby on a snowy Winter night drinking Bedouin Chai and scented in Winter Woods- now that is heavenly!

Sonoma Scent Studios Site<<<JUMP

Brie X

Brie wrote this post ahead of time and will not be responding to comments, it is her last. I am sad. I (Portia) will pick up the slack though so please leave a message in the comments if you’d like to continue the conversation. Be Well and Happy Brie, wherever you are. You are loved. XXX

Vanilla Faves: Notes in Fragrance

January 30, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 35 Comments

Post by FeralJasmine

I’m given to understand that fetishists refer to ordinary sex as “vanilla sex.” I will not waste time in commenting about how I come to know this, except that it reflects on the peculiar nature of the people I encounter in the course of my work. To me it seems like an incongruous association in several ways. For one thing, vanilla is said to be a note that men almost invariably find sexy, making it a bit fetishistic to begin with. Then there is the nature of vanilla itself. Dark, deep, rich, complex, delicious… How did this come to be conflated with “ordinary?”

Photo Stolen 123rf

Vanilla scents are anything but ordinary to me. Of all the perfume bottles in my collection, at least half contain vanilla in some form and to some degree. And never mind just how many I have; probably not as many as Portia, so go check up on her instead ;-). But even if I limit myself to the vanilla-centric scents, there are lots of options. There is probably no note that lends itself to so many different approaches. I can’t do more than list a few of my favorites, but I will try to spread them across the vanilla spectrum.

Vanilla: Notes in Fragrance

Fifty Shades of Vanilla

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

First, Indult Tihota. This one was created by Francis Kurkdjian and was recently reissued in what is supposed to be its original form, although he is no longer connected with the company. Listed notes are vanilla, florals, and spices. As an aficionado of good vanilla beans, I do not see how floral and spice notes could possibly be disconnected from vanilla. They are there naturally. This one is like rich, creamy, pure vanilla extract of the highest quality that lasts for hours. This is the one for those of us who would stuff vanilla beans in our bras if we could get away with it. (Gentle reader, kindly do not try this. Over the course of a few hours the seeds tend to end up in your cleavage, where they look very disconcerting.) When you want a shot of vanilla in all its glory, straight up, Tihota is the one to reach for.

Tom Ford’s Tobacco Vanille is a perfume that I used to criticize at every opportunity. I called it heavy, cloying, and unbalanced. Then I tried it on a cold winter day and had to eat my words, and also had to eat the bill for a large decant. Now, instead of heavy, I find it rich and satisfying. I suspect that, when the weather warms up, it will begin to seem cloying again and will be put away for next winter.

Photo Stolen CB I Hate Perfume

A profound vanilla favorite of mine is the gorgeous 7 Billion Hearts, by CB I Hate Perfume. I tried this one in late fall, bought a bottle without reckoning the cost, and wore it happily all winter. I loved the vanilla on a bed of cedar, with a smoky resiny fire in the background, and others loved it on me. Then on the first really warm day of spring, it turned on me. In fact, it drove harsh cedary fingernails right into my skin and refused to let go. I could barely smell vanilla in the pile of partially burnt pencil shavings that it turned into. Now that cold weather is back, it is cuddling up against me again, purring softly. Next spring I will put it aside without regret, knowing that come fall, all will be well between us.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Finally, there is the exquisite Mona di Orio Vanille. I will not go into the famous shipwreck story that goes with it, because I don’t feel that you should need to hear a story to know whether you like the perfume or not. Bales of spices and woods, eventually giving way to as lovely a spiced vanilla as I can imagine. It also contains a subtle but highly effective use of nutmeg, a note that can be tricky to manage. Try this one, if you haven’t already.

Now, what are your favorites? I need to know what to add to my wish list.

01/n°03 Down In One 14 by Cécile Matton for Fragrance Republ!c 2013

January 29, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 16 Comments

Post by Val the Cookie Queen

Hi APJ,

From Fragrance Republic site: FRAGRANCE REPUBL!C 01/03 was inspired by the deliciously complex yet accessible mojito, the sunny, potent, Cuban drink. Marrying the fresh, exuberant aspect of mint and lemon to the darkly sweet and powerful Rhum Pure Jungle Essence creates a sparkling effervescent fusion.

APJ readers please check out the website. I cannot possible do it justice. There is so much fascinating information on it, including a conversation between Denyse Beaulieu (of Grain de Musc) and the perfumer Cécile Matton.

FRAGRANCE REPUBL!C is a club of fragrance enthusiasts that gives exclusive access to original fine fragrances as created by world class perfumers ……….. you may read on yourselves.

FRAGRANCE REPUBL!C 01/n°03 by Cécile Matton 2013

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Gurjum (a resin that flows naturally from the trees of the dipterocarpus species); Mojito Accord (Rhum Pure Jungle Essence, Mint, Lemon)

So onto the 01/03 juice. I have a 21 year old son. He works with the deaf. He is a body builder. (He is also extremely sick of me shoving various parts of my body under his nose and telling him to sniff.) I sprayed a hefty amount of n°03 onto paper as he walked into the room. Let´s just say I don´t own the bottle any more.

Photo Stolen Hammerin Man Flickr

It smells very resiny in the beginning and quite peppery. It sweetens up as time goes on, but the lemony overtones stop it from being cloying. It is bright and exhilarating and exuberant. It veers towards the masculine side of the spectrum to my nose, but that could be because my son has been wearing it for month. He said one of the reasons he likes it so much is because no one else has it! Ah ha.
Perhaps he has inherited some of my snobby perfume habits after all!

So Perfumista Mums and Dads. You all have an advantage over me. When your kids start to reach that age of totally covering themselves in Axe (aaaaargh, scream, ) you have a great option. Treat them, and in turn yourselves to FR!´s 01/03. You cannot go wrong. They´ll thank you for it.

I can only say bring on 01/04 … these are fab and we want more.

Love from Austria, where I am sat with Portia and Michael. Well, someone´s gotta do it.

Bussis from us all
CQ

With thanks to FR! for giving me the opportunity to sniff!!

L’Eau d’Hiver by Jean Claude Ellena for Frederic Malle 2003

January 28, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 7 Comments

Post by Gabriella

Hello perfumed Peeps!

I’ve loved the Frederic Malle range ever since it launched here in Sydney years ago but Jean Claude Ellena’s pared down aesthetic has never really been my cup of tea. It therefore took me some time to first appreciate and then fall in love with his masterpiece for the Malle line. And it’s been well worth the wait.

L’Eau d’Hiver by Jean Claude Ellena for Frederic Malle 2003

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Bergamot, heliotrope, jasmine, iris, honey, angelica, white musk.

The real beauty of this scent is its enigmatic quality. It manages to feel both cool and warm at the same time and the gentle unfolding of these polar opposites is what makes L’Eau d’Hiver so magical. There’s the slight cool tang of the bergamot in the opening underscored with the piquant pepperiness of angelica.

The addition of iris exacerbates the detached coolness and earthiness before the soft powderiness of heliotrope is joined by sweetness of honey. Even as the scent warms up, the angelica and iris continue to peek through the layers like soft droplets of snow or sparkling white ice.

Photo Stolen DeviantArt

L’Eau d’Hiver is somewhat of a mesmerising drug of a fragrance. Under its spell, I manage to detach from my normal frazzled self and become a calm, serene, contemplative being. It also makes me feel completely elegant. It is the olfactory equivalent of a white silk blouse, fluid and graceful and something that just makes you feel “put together”.

And as Dionne noted in her much more comprehensive APJ L’Eau d’Hiver review, despite its name, L’Eau d’Hiver works in all sorts of temperatures and seasons. I’ve been enjoying wearing it recently on temperate summer’s days.

L'Eau d'Hiver Frederic Malle Harkness_Tower WikiMedia

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Further reading: Chemist in the Bottle and Olfactoria’s Travels
Mecca Cosmetica starts at $124/3 x 10ml
Surrender to Chance has samples starting at $6/ml

Have you tried L’Eau D’Hiver? What are your I-just-feel-complete fragrances?

With much love till next time!

M x

Lovely by Laurent Le Guernec and Clement Gavarry for Sarah Jessica Parker 2005

January 27, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 13 Comments

Post by Katrina

Lovely from Sarah Jessica Parker is the perfume I reach for when I have a stressful day ahead. When I’m feeling a little worried about something I need to face in my day like a meeting or doctors appointment I will normally choose to wear Lovely. I spray on Lovely, inhale deeply and feel myself relax a little. I feel a bit more confident to face the day. Lovely is elegant and understated and I wouldn’t hesitate to wear this perfume for these types of meetings.

Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker 2005

Laurent Le Guernec and Clement Gavarry

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives the following notes.
Top: Nectarine, bergamot, rosewood and lavender.
Heart: Apple martini, white daffodil and orchid.
Base: White amber, cedar, woody notes and white musk

I mostly smell lavender and rosewood when I first spray on Lovely with a hint of zest and sweetness from the light citrus and fruit notes.

I find lavender so relaxing and use a few drops of essential oil if I’m having trouble sleeping. I also have lavender growing in my garden and can’t help but pick some to smell as I walk past. It’s not that I love the smell of lavender; it can be strong and sharp. It’s the feeling of well-being I get from lavender’s scent that draws me in. It has a soothing effect.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

The heart of the perfume leads to beautiful, feminine florals and the calming lavender lingers. The rosewood leads to a solid base with wood and musk. The lasting power of Lovely is excellent and at the end of the day I’m left with a gentle amber scent on my skin.

SJP Lovely is often compared to the more expensive Narciso Rodriguez for Her and has received favourable reviews from many perfume bloggers.

Photo Stolen WikiMedia

Further reading at Bois de Jasmin and Katie Puckrik Smells
FragranceNet has $19/50ml
My Perfume Samples starts from $2/ml

If you are interested in more Celebrity Perfumes, check out my website at Celebrity Perfume Store

Katrina x

Escada Magnetism by Pierre Bourdon and Steve Demercado 2003

January 23, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 17 Comments

Post by Chairman Meow

Hi APJ,

Recently, after combing through my local classifieds for an interesting scented bargain, I found myself in the thick of my old uni stomping grounds, knocking on a stranger’s door. It was answered by an ample bosomed young lady with a nuclear tan in Ugg boots.
“Come in, darl” she beamed, ushering me through the house. Her room, ascetically furnished, was redolent of a recently extinguished cigarette, masked by generous spritzes of Gucci Guilty. She waved an expansive hand at the half dozen or so fragrances sitting on her bookcase.
“I’m addicted to perfumes, babe. I keep buying them but I can’t use them all”. I politely agreed it was a splendid collection. Attempting to engage my young son in friendly banter, and receiving a churlish stare as her reward, she accepted my payment and I made a hasty exit to examine my prize.

Escada Magnetism by Pierre Bourdon and Steve Demercado 2003

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pineapple, black currant, melon, red berries, cassia and litchi
Heart: Magnolia, iris, green leaves, freesia, basil, jasmine, caraway, heliotrope, lily-of-the-valley, rose and almond blossom
Base: Sandalwood, amber, patchouli, musk, benzoin, caramel, vetiver and vanilla

But if you want an indication of what Magnetism is about, you need look no further than the flacon, the berry candy stalactite with its tongue-grazing chiselled edges, portentous of the juice within.
And indeed, Magnetism is a high-octane, fruit-astic confection with the stones to comfortably take on and take out the best of its ilk in a foxy boxing match. Its opening is familiar enough, a concoction of toffeed berries and that generic citrus note that seems to cut, like industrial grade detergent, through the tallow of many a sugary composition. It is accompanied for the first few minutes by something verdant, making for a crisp, if not bracing salvo.

Photo Stolen Omar A. Flickr

After this point many of its poorer cousins will then trail off into some sort of perfume mumble, and evanesce into a vague vanilla-[insert unidimensional accord of choice] concoction, like an olfactory half finished sentence. Magnetism, apparently with more thought given to it, holds its shape for longer with quite distinguishable benzoin, patchouli and amber into the dry down. Later in its long, long life, I can make out something a little seedy, the faint whiff of smoker’s breath, as if the perfume had been imprinted with the memory of its former mistress.

Photo Stolen DeviantArt

Magnetism is aptly named, and evidently aimed at attracting the non-thinking sex symbol. Perhaps the most decisive indication of its common denominator appeal is the grunt of “nice” it got from Chairman Woof – high praise from one whose usual appraisals range from “non-specific” to “I don’ t like it”.

FragranceNet has $43/50ml before coupon
My Perfume Samples starts at $2/ml

One reviewer on Basenotes thought it would “be great as a stripper scent”, and whilst my limited stripping experience precludes comment, I will venture that it is a perfume for the extroverted, saucy even, for those liberal in their use of “darl” and “babe”. I’m saving mine to trot out when I need to get my slapper on.

Chairman Meow. X

Bas de Soie by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2010

January 22, 2014 / australianperfumejunkiescom / 8 Comments

Post by Eliza D

Hi there APJ,

People often talk about fragrance for mood, the more I think about it the more sense it makes.

Bas de Soie by Christopher Sheldrake for Serge Lutens 2010

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Iris, hyacinth, galbanum, spice, musk

If one wears perfume to create a mood, or to prepare oneself to be a certain way in the world, then Bas de Soie (Silk Stockings) is my leather and heels take no prisoners you’re not fooling me I am sorry but you don’t have an appointment work fragrance. I know, I know, this was probably never meant to be worn to work, but sometimes you need a perfume like this to alter the scene.

Photo Stolen liz west Flickr

Bas de Soie intrigued me from the moment I tried a sample as part of a collection from The Posh Peasant. While most perfumes I wear settle during the dry down to their bass notes, Bas de Soie sings in a mezzo-soprano range from its opening to its last breath. It’s this quality that makes me sit up a little straighter and respond a little more crisply than usual. There’s no time to relax when wearing it.

Though Fragrantica gives the notes iris, hyacinth, galbanum, spice and musk all in a row all I can smell are the flowers. As if someone had pulled them out of the ground, roots and all, and was pressing them under my nose. hard. for a long time.

Sillage is moderate, and longevity on me is very good. After an eight hour day, I can still smell Bas de Soie. So, if you want a flower with a bit of an edge, or as someone on Fragrantica recently wrote “Beautiful and delicate but scary as hell,” try Bas de Soie.

Photo Stolen Victor1558 Flickr

From LuckyScent: With Bas de Soie (aka Silk Stockings) following up on Serge Noire, Filles en Aiguilles and Fourreau Noir in his new vein of sartorially-named fragrances, Serge Lutens has ventured out of black and into the blue by splicing hyacinth and iris. Is this hyaris or iricinth? The two notes are so intimately blended in this shimmering scent that they can’t be teased apart. Those who wondered where the Lutens-Sheldrake tandem would go after their L’Eau Serge Lutens shocker have their answer. And it’s not back to Marrakesh: Bas de soie is as quintessentially Parisian as the gardens of the Palais Royal.

Further reading: Grain de Musc and Olfactoria’s Travels
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L’Heure Attendue by Henri Almeras for Jean Patou 1946

L’Heure Attendue by Henri Almeras for Jean Patou 1946

Still Life by Dora Baghriche-Arnaud for Olfactive Studio 2011

Still Life by Dora Baghriche-Arnaud for Olfactive Studio 2011

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