Dsquared2 Fall Winter 2013/2014 Full Fashion Show

Hiya Huffers,

While the Dsquared fragrances don’t give me a huge wear life they are interesting and usually boundary pushers. This F/W 13/14 show is so classically beautiful but with wonderful and outrageous features that make it modern, so bang up to date. And so much of it elegant, beaded evening wear. Bravo! Sequins and glitter are back.

Dsquared2-FW13 FMVMagPhoto Stolen MFVMag

I like that they have followed the LV 12/13 over-large hat look. It’s fun, silly and sometimes fabulous. The jewellery is astounding BTW. Enjoy.

DSquared2_FW13 GloveLoveBlogPhoto Stolen GloveLoveBlog

Portia xx
Dsquared2 Fall Winter 2013/2014 Full Fashion Show (Feb’13)

Dionne’s Spring + Fall Top 5’s

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Post by Dionne

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Greetings, fellow ‘fumies,
Portia wrote a post a little while ago (Portia’s 2013 Spring Top 10) listing her top ten for spring/fall, and I was intrigued to learn that she reaches for the same fragrances for both seasons, since they have warm days and cool nights in common. My own list for the two seasons is not similar at all, so instead you’re going to get a shorter list for each season.

Dionne’s Spring + Fall Top 5’s

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SPRING

Ahhh, my favorite season! Maybe that’s because it’s so welcome after six months of winter, and since it’s such a short, ephemeral thing that lasts only a month I always feel a combination of hope and wistfulness. Spring is when I reach for my light florals, and that in itself is a special event. Most higher-pitched florals don’t play well with my skin, so this list represents perseverance and many, MANY samples.

Après l’Ondée by Guerlain

This is the pre-2011 formulation, when heliotrope still sang alongside the iris and violet. So gorgeous that if I was forced to choose only one Spring fragrance, this would be it.

Mimosa pour Moi by L’Artisan Parfumeur

I did a major sampling of the mimosa note, and out of about 14 contenders, this was my favorite. And oh, such a tender thing. Fuzzy yellow pom-poms in a bottle.

Heure Exquise by Annick Goutal

The prettiest of my green quartet, this floral green pulls off the trick of freshness and elegance at the same time. The highest praise my Scottish father-in-law would bestow on something was the phrase, “Oh, that’s just lovely,” and that’s what this is.

Le Temps d’une Fete by Parfums de Nicolai

Supposed to be a green floral, on my skin the green doesn’t really show up because narcissus and hyacinth in all their lush glory has completely taken over the conversation. Heady stuff and just a hint of naughty.

After My Own Heart by INeke

I adore the scent of lilacs so it’s no surprise my very first bottle after falling down the rabbit hole was After My Own Heart. I must respectfully disagree with Coco Chanel – sometimes I DO want to smell like a flower. And after comparing AMOH with the lilac bush outside my window…. oh yeah, I definitely do.

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FALL (Autumn)

It’s harder for me to choose specific Fall fragrances because I usually wear the same ones this season that I do in Winter, with one exception. My favorite perfumes are the spicier, warmer fragrances, and after a few months of fresh, floral, green or fruity options, I’m ready to give all my snugglies a go again.

Jour Ensolleilé by Sonoma Scent Studio

This is THE fall fragrance for me. Laurie Erickson combines orange blossom with tuberose and jasmine in a way that’s golden, and it’s the perfect match for the rich sunshine filtering through the trees.

Tilda Swinton Like this by Etat Libre d’Orange

Ginger, pumpkin, maple syrup and all things orange, this is the way celebuscents should be made.

Kyoto by Comme des Garcons

It turns out that incense + green tea + vetiver = a Zen state of mind. Calming and reflective.

Traversée du Bosphore by L’Artisan Parfumeur

At first smell, it’s sweet Turkish delight, but give it a whirl and you discover there’s some intelligence under the hood as well as the leather, saffron and tobacco come to the fore. It’s the Dolly Parton of gourmand fragrances.

Ormonde Woman by Ormonde Jayne

OK, now I’m really cheating, because this isn’t a Fall fragrance by any stretch; it’s my signature , my Holy Grail. It’s just that the Lady gets worn less in the summertime and I’ve missed her. Dark green forests wrapped in amber, a one of a kind.

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SurrenderToChance has samples and decants of all of these beauties if you’d like to try any of them. Samples start from as little as $3/ml and they are a great way to test a fragrance.

So, what are your top five? Do you reach for the same thing in Spring and Autumn like Portia, or do you mix it up like me?
Dionne

Stop and Smell the Roses

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Post by Suzanne R Banks

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“Rose is a rose is a rose is a rose.” Gertrude Stein, 1935

Some say Gertrude Stein is referring to the rose like this to express her feeling that things are what they are. According to Wikipedia: “In Stein’s view, the sentence expresses the fact that simply using the name of a thing already invokes the imagery and emotions associated with it,..” So when you say rose do you invoke the scent, or the colour, or everything? It is the most romanticised flower in history and appears in many poems, prose and plays. It is often associated with love and intimate moments of the heart.

Stop and Smell the Roses

Do you take time to stop and smell the roses? What is life if we don’t connect to its beauty at every turn? The scent of a beautiful rose is a true gift of nature which invites us to convene with the oneness of the universe in the now!

rosa-centifloiaRosa centifolia – another rose used to make essential oil

I never buy a rose that doesn’t have a scent – to me that’s the most important part. Isn’t it a wonderful thing when you enter your house to be greeted by the natural perfume of roses? Essential oil of rose is made by either steam distillation or as an absolute (where the scent is extracted into a fat and then lifted by a solvent). I tend not to buy absolutes as there seems to be a heavy chemical intervention and I’d rather have my oils extracted in the simplest way.

Rose oil is a complex arrangement of hundreds of molecules, some of which have still not been identified. No wonder it is referred to as the “Queen of Oils”. We know Cleopatra used roses in her beauty regime, and it is claimed she used rose petals in her boudoir to seduce Marc Anthony from the Roman Empire. The Romans used roses too, and the mention of roses appear in Christian, Buddhist and Confucian literature. Roses are seen in Asian motifs dating back to 3000 BC. It seems as though commercial production of rose oils and rose by products can be traced to Persia in the 10th century. The oil was referred to as “attar of roses” or “rose otto”, which is a term still used today.

rosa_gallica_jamesmasonRosa gallica – a sub species named “James Mason”

So what can we use use rose oil for?

* use rose oil to help with any heat or infection in the body (you would put a few drops into some carrier oil and smooth it on the face and body – a great treatment for any illness)

* use this rose body oil to help take the sting out of eczema and psoriasis

* a drop on the temple to relieve stress and tension and counteract a headache

* a great oil for attending to grief (use it a single drop on the heart chakra or in a personal mist or room mist)

* a drop added to your facial oil or cream will refine your skin and give you one of the most powerful aromatherapy treatments in the world. You will feel soft, unruffled, connected to the universe and ready to be the Queen of your world

* a few drops of rose oil in an oil burner will create a scented paradise of peace and calm so it’s great for upset children, the elderly and even pets (if you are using 3% in jojoba it’s not really suitable for an oil burner – you will need to buy the pure oil)

* a drop or two in the right place, as a perfume, will do amazing things for your self esteem as rose is the oil of self-love and nurturing

rosa-damascenaRosa damascena – the most used rose for oil production

When buying rose oil you will mostly find it comes in a 3 % dilution in jojoba oil and this is simply because it is a premium oil and is very expensive. Even if you buy wholesale, pure rose oil can cost hundreds of dollars. It is precious!

Remember, treat yourself first then everyone will benefit!

Suzanne R Banks x

Ed: If you thought this was good go see the Suzanne R Banks site (LINK JUMP) or like her Facebook Page (LINK JUMP)

All Photos from Suzanne R Banks site. This post is a reprise of a piece from Suzanne R Banks blog

Perfume + Tea: Musings + Pairings #2

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Post by Brie

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Perfume and Tea Pairings

For those of you in “perfumeland” who know me well I need not reiterate that SonomaScentStudio is my absolute favorite perfume house EVER (surpassing Chanel, Guerlain, etc). In my opinion every fragrance that the perfumer Laurie Erickson has created thus far is outstanding. Given my new found love for naturals and essential oils I have been hounding Laurie for quite some time to add natural fragrances to her line. My wish came true when she released Cocoa Sandalwood this past winter. Now, following in its footsteps is the recent release of all natural Spiced Citrus Vetiver.

Sonoma Scent Studio Naturals-Spiced Citrus Vetiver

When I wear Spiced Citrus Vetiver my mind instantly envisages a ballet. Not surprising, given that I was once a professional ballet dancer. Please join me in this production as the curtain rises.

rosemuscboxPhoto9 Stolen SSS

Fragrance Notes: Blood orange, bergamot, ginger CO2, cinnamon bark CO2, clove bud absolute, jasmine sambac absolute, osmanthus absolute, Sri Lanka vetiver EO, Indonesian vetiver CO2, Virginia cedar, Indian Mysore sandalwood EO, vanilla.

In the opening adagio the graceful pas de deux of our principal ballerina (vetiver) and her leading male dancer (blood orange) is supported by a pas de trois of soloists (ginger,cinnamon and clove) who jete around the couple whilst the corps de ballet (jasmine, osmanthus, cedar, sandalwood and vanilla) pirouette stage left and stage right. The prima ballerina (vetiver) does not take center stage in this ballet but rather bourees around the all the other dancers throughout this ballet.

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Vetiver (Suzanne R Banks’s blog post on vetiver) is an essential oil that I have recently grown to adore (The Fragrant Man). Laurie’s usage of vetiver has been masterfully blended in an utterly unique way. The vetiver is subtle yet appears throughout this composition, constantly changing on my wrist. A gracefully executed fragrance that is perfect for both male and female fragrance wearers. Given that it is all natural, Spiced Citrus Vetiver sits close to the skin and is the perfect scent when one does not want to offend the ‘perfume adverse” crowd. For a natural eau de parfum longevity is excellent on my skin.

IMG_2816Photo by Brittany and Courtney

Organic India Tulsi Tea (Original)

I pair Spiced Citrus Vetiver with Organic India’s Original Tulsi Tea. Tulsi, or holy basil, is renowned in India as an herb with healing properties that relieve stress and protect the immune system. The earthiness of this tea lends itself beautifully to the grassy quality of the vetiver in Spiced Citrus Vetiver.

Do grab a cup of this relaxing tea whilst wearing Spiced Citrus Vetiver : sit back and enjoy the ballet!

Perfume and Tea Pairings GIVEAWAY!

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

1 x 1ml samples of Spiced Citrus Vetiver and my all natural essential oil blend “Ginza in the Rain” as well as a sampling of a variety of Tusli teas
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who leaves their favourite perfume note or essential oil in the comments section.

Extra Chance?
Tweet: @OzPerfumeJunkie @SonomaScent @brie108 Brie’s Perfume & Tea GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p2fQBU-1Ar

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Thursday 10th May 2013 9pm AusEST and winners will be announced in a separate post then.
Winners will be chosen by putting names on same sized papers, folded similarly, put on a tray and Brie’s family will pick a winner.
The winners will have till Monday 13th May 2013 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Chile Vanilli By Brent Leonesio for Smell Bent

Hello lovelies,

Make no mistake, I am a Smell Bent fan girl. I love their fun and interesting take on fragrance, their gorgeous Chairman and their price point. Smell Bent’s modus operandi is to spend all their money on the juice and little on the packaging, next to nothing on advertising. Now that is a sensible niche game plan to me, and it’s generating worldwide interest. Recently I dropped by the website a grabbed a couple of their perfumed oils.

Chile Vanilli By Smell Bent

Chile Vanilli FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Patchouli, Vanilla, Cinnamon

Firstly, I love the little oil pots from Smell Bent with their glass want applicator in the lid, it feels very new and ancient at the same time: this is how the Indian and Arabic oils are often presented and it’s really easy. Another wonderful thing about oils is that you get a longer wear time and slower development of the fragrance, though in Chile Vanilli’s case not really important because on me it wears quite linear. A lovely soft, warm blend that is perfect for Spring and Autumn. Today Sydney is a little brisk and I am feeling cuddled and coddled in a divine dry dessert fragrance that is delicious without being overly food-ish, though there are bakery moments towards the dry down. I think the patchouli, which is not excessive, keeps the composition grounded and earthy.

Smell Bent oils FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Though Chile Vanille is fragrant, it will not skunk those around you, especially in the oil form. I think it would be a perfect work, date, dinner scent where you want to smell fresh, clean, warm and inviting but not announce your perfumista status too loudly. In oil form there is less projection though any length of time spent somewhere and you will be smellable, soft but invasive.

For a complete list of the current, and often changing, Smell Bent choices go to the Smell Bent Site (<<<JUMP) my Chile Vanilli 8ml Oil was around $20, super good value for money!!

Here is a shot of the lovely, movie star good looking Chairman at Smell Bent, Brent Leonesio. If that’s not a good reason to go check out the Smell Bent Site then I don’t know what is.

Brent Leonesio FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Until tomorrow, Be Nice To Yourself.
Portia xx

150,000 VIEWS CELEBRATION GIVEAWAY WINNER!

Hello APJ Crew!!

I hope you enjoyed our giveaway. It has been really fun and THANK YOU all for your lovely well wishes. We are glad you all are loving APJ as much as we are. Let’s find out who won the FENDI Donna.

150,000 VIEWS CELEBRATION GIVEAWAY WINNER!

FENDI Donna 5ml 99perfumePhoto Stolen 99perfume

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

1 x 5ml mini FENDI Donna EdP
P&H Anywhere in the world

I review it for APJ HERE! (<<<JUMP)

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who leaves a CONGRATULATIONS in the comments section.

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 5th May 2013 9pm AusEST.
Winners were chosen by putting names on same sized papers, folded similarly, put on a tray and TSO Jin picked them.

Winner EverythingHealth

SaffyIsHere!!

CONGRATULATIONS!!Ha Ha HA!! I am laughing that Jin picked you out after you giving me a nudge yesterday! Fabulous!!

You have till Wednesday 8th May 2013 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or I will give the prize to someone else.No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Thanks Everyone,
Portia xx

Safran Troublant by L’Artisan Parfumeur 2002

Hello Fellow Fume Heads,

Sometimes I read other people’s reviews and I am swept away by their incredible love, moment, articulateness or sheer joy at a perfume. It’s like the love is transferred by osmosis through their excitement. Safran Troublant is a case in point, I read a terrific post and could almost smell the fragrance while reading, at that same time I was ordering some splits from my favourite split enabler, Ruth K on FFF, and wondered if she had a bottle lying around that she would like to share 5ml of. Oh yes she did, in its old packaging and everything. YIPPEE!

Fragrantica has Bertrand Duchaufour and BaseNotes has Olivia Giacobetti responsible for creating Safran Troublant. Mystery!!

Safran Troublant by L’Artisan Parfumeur 2002

Safran Troublant FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Passion flower, sandalwood, red rose, vanilla, saffron, sugar and ginger.

What a terrific scent. It is so calm, collected and unpushy. When I wear Safran Troublant it encases me is a glorious and interesting magic that is sweet and delicious without being particularly edible, though foody it is. Does that make sense? The spicy rose, ginger and vanilla are what I smell most through the whole life of the fragrance but I think the saffron is just not a note I’m familiar enough with to really understand how it fits here. Sometimes people mention that there is a clean plastic-ish smell to it, well I often find that in roses too, are they the same? Is it a particular molecule that gives me this reaction? Dunno gang but I love it.

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Some of the bloggers have called this a comfort scent, a warm blanket to wrap yourself in on a cool day but I find it much more aloof than that. It’s a cool Autumn day filled with rain here in Sydney and I am not feeling the warm wrap effect at all. Sweet, yes, warm, no. Rather a cool sweetness, a green sweetness, Safran Troublant feels like an expensive sweetness that relies on sophistication and prior knowledge to enjoy it fully. Like Bach, so pretty and intricate to listen to but when you start to study him it becomes a math equation, a geometric vision in sound. L’Artisan is often like that for me. Very pretty and wearable by almost everyone till you start to try and dissect what it is you love and it is so far out of my knowledge realms that all I can do is go back to, “I really enjoy how I feel when I wear it.” Curiously, I smell it for hours and hours but the people around me say it’s too faint to discern, interesting huh?

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You will not skunk your colleagues or dinner guests even if you, like me, spritz with abandon. Safran Troublant is an introverted perfumistas scent, not that you are unsmellable but it flies under the radar.

Further reading GrainDeMusc and the reason I got my hands on some Safran Troublant was the recent post at Kafkaesque
L’Artisan Parfumeur has 100ml/$145
Libertine Perfumes in Australia has 100ml/$169 including postage in Australia. Good deal!
SurrenderToChance starts at $4/ml

Has it ever happened for you? Read a review and can’t help but buy the fragrance? Which fragrances have you done it for and are you happy with your purchase?
Till tomorrow we wish you only good,
Portia xx

Bellodgia EdP, Parfum & Oil by Ernest Daltroff for Caron 1927

Hey Hey Stink Monkeys,

Do you ever fall so in love with a fragrance you want to own EVERY available strength and vintage? I have a couple of fragrances that that has been the case for me. Guerlain Shalimar, CHANEL No 5, Versace Blonde, Boucheron Trouble and

Bellodgia EdT, EdP, Parfum & Oil by Ernest Daltroff for Caron 1927

Bellodgia FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Carnation and rose
Heart: Jasmine, lily-of-the-valley and violet
Base: Musk, clove, vanilla and sandalwood.

As you may have guessed by the heading I have different versions of this amazing fragrance. This is the order I fell in love with them: EdT, EdP, Parfum and then by luckiest chance the original Oil. I will often layer Bellodgia with oil on wrists, parfum behind knees and EdP on chest, my EdT has about 2 sprays left and never gets pulled out any more, though I did just order a new 30ml one with the purple leather coating, YUMMY. Each one is from a different vintage by the smell of them and the oil is absolutely killer, even the slightest scraping will keep me deeply fragrant with sillage that fills a room in moments. You can smell it on your person but it stealthily creeps around a room until it takes over and becomes the rooms scent, then it lingers for hours.

Funnily, Bellodgia was released as a softer, less in your face sister to much of the Caron work. Nowadays you would be hard pressed to find a young girl willing to be so fragrant and bombastic. My how times have changed. Though Bellodgia has been reformulated there is still a very good nod to the oldest of my collection, the oil which was completely sealed when I received it so not too much air let in to destroy it. I love the opening, so rich with promise and pungent.The crisp minty crackle of carnation cutting through the floral bouquet and vanilla. There is a real rose note that is both spiced and sweet, I think the bouquet is amped towards making a lifelike but still cryptic version of rose, the cloves from the base help too.

I don’t really get the white flowers in the heart but I think that’s my terrible nose, the rose is superstar on my skin and the violet, earthy green and fresh, seems to serve as a counterpoint rather than a feature. Then into the warm and deep dry down where I think Bellodgia really comes into its own, the musk (and I think the oil has the real deal) vanilla and woods all seem to lay a deep downbeat while this fantastical spicy rose maintains its hold for hours and hours.

Do you want to feel like a fabulous flapper, a naughty, nascent beauty ready to pounce upon an unsuspecting world? Bellodgia will definitely put you in the mood, no matter how unlikely we are ever to fit into that category. Dreaming is free.

Caron Bellodgia Flappers StyleIconicPhoto Stolen StyleIconic

Further reading BoisDeJasmin and Olfactoria’sTravels
EssentialMall has the purple leather encased 30ml EdT for $33
SurrenderToChance has a selection of Bellodgia including vintage EdT, EdP & Parfum

Till tomorrow, we hope all is light and joy in your house. If it’s not though, like the rainy weather it will clear. Promise!!
Portia xxx

Celtic Fire by Anastasia Brozler for Union 2012

Hello Fragrance Buffs,

This crew started up last year and they are getting quite a following. Unfortunately I can’t get into their site to get more info.

EDIT: From the Union Fragrance site thanks to Val the Cookie Queen: Anastasia Brozler is Union’s gifted and passionate Creative Perfumer. Anastasia’s background is in bespoke perfumery, creating personal scents for a coterie of international clients from princes to ballerina’s, actors and politicians. She has established a reputation as the woman that can achieve the impossible from re-creating the scent of your favourite car to that of your grandmother’s handbag!

Celtic Fire by Union 2012

Celtic Fire FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accord:
Top: Oak, balsam fir and pine needles
Heart: Marmite (unnamed on Fragrantica)
Base: Birch, myrtle and peat

Righto! Before we start to talk about the fragrance the bottle looks AH MAY ZING in the photo and I am tempted to lash out and grab myself one before I’ve even tested how good the juice is. I KNOW!! Outrageous.

Sometimes when a fragrance arrives, and I grabbed this decant from SurrenderToChance in a Weekly Chance Special, like Celtic Fire did today I am unreasonably excited. Having read loads of reviews when the brand launched last year and most of the scentbloggosphere was going completely SpazLaLa for them and falling over themselves to add platitudes to praise, I now am at a fever pitch. Honestly, this is not a good way to start a fragrance experience.

Celtic Fire Campfire pbasePhoto Stolen pbase

How did it smell and make me feel? Smokey, like, bonfire BarBQ and charred meat: Birch-tar-y like freshly treated leather hides awaiting stitching, The pine needles pass me by but there is a mulchy, freshly turned earth, sexy gardener sweat accord at the start that has a curious sweetness and the heart is almost pretty and not nearly so aggressively manly. Marmite? Like Vegemite? Really? A salty, tangy, sweetness that I suppose, with auto-suggestion on, you could call Marmite. It makes me feel interesting and alluring, not because it’s sexy but because it is so far removed from what people smell like, so to smell like this is enticing. I do get slight reminders of Interlude Man but not the moaning ecstasy that it engenders. I would be extremely comfortable wearing Celtic Fire and have enjoyed wearing it over two days, before and again after getting ready for work. My decant is dry.

Celtic Fire softens considerably after the first 2 hours and becomes a smell of bushfire or bonfire night on your clothes. It is murky, sweet, smoky, animalic and still very beautiful. Staying like this for hours and hours and I can’t pinpoint its leaving because it has become me so slowly. I am surprised that no one has commented on Celtic Fire over my two days of wear, maybe it doesn’t project as far as I thought?

So even though I was in a fluster of over-excitement it didn’t diminish my enjoyment, Celtic Fire has passed with flying colours.

Further reading TheBlackNarcissus and TheCandyPerfumeBoy
Available online at Selfridges (100ml/£125) and HenriBendel (100ml/$185)
SurrenderToChance starts at $5/ml

Did you try this line yet? And??

See you tomorrow,
Portia xx