Perfume

Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete by Thierry Wasser for Guerlain 2012

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Hey there Crew,

Sometimes when I am in touch with Birgit from Olfactoria’s Travels she might mention a bottle or two that I love and she is ready to let loose, just such a one as this. I can tell she loved it for a while because there is a fair amount missing, sometimes tastes change or something along a similar vein eclipses your current bottle, a million reasons. Maybe you need to sell off a few to buy a newby, always an excellent way of keeping stuff loved and in rotation.

Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete by Guerlain 2012

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Cedar, jasmine, saffron, cardamom, laurel, oud, myrrh, patchouli, leather

BaseNotes gives theese featured accords:
Top: Laurel, Neroli
Heart: Jasmine, Patchouli, Saffron, Cedar
Base: Leather, Myrrh

Perfume Shrine tells me that Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete means Dreaming of a Summery Wood, cool summer evening maybe? Summer doesn’t really fit for me to be honest perhaps Autumn? Maybe that’s the dreaming bit? Dreaming in Autumn and Winter of the memories of a Summer wood but surrounded by the scents of winter. OK I’m on board with that. I love the beaded curtain on the bottle with tiny little Guerlain logos and bees, also the Arabic/French writing and the squarish, spare design that you can fit loads of on a shelf. Did I mention the box this comes in? It’s so ridiculously luxe all by itself.

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete Guerlain Turkish Delight WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

Opening up I get honeyed sweets, like baklava or sugary real Turkish Delight (some days it’s more a candied citrus) with woods and fairly early on I also get a patchouli/oudh vibe that runs baseline. Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete is woodsy and sensual, spicy, and a little waxy. It washes over me in warm, elegant waves like toffee, making everything seem fluid and the air thick. Imagine looking into a brightly lit room through 1970s amber glass, a teinte, a glow, a wash of luminous whiskey coloured grandeur. Thierry Wasser has made something regal that throws such a luscious nod to the middle east but is ensconced firmly in the heart of Paris, the oudh/patchouli clean and dinner suited. How has he made these notes into a gourmand, I seriously want to eat myself up. There are some hints of smoke and the sweaty green of cardamom/cumin adding depth and variation through Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete life.

 Turkish deLIGHTPhoto Stolen LASZLO ILYES Flickr

Through my wear I am most conscious of how amazingly international I smell. It’s as if all the sweet, delicious and pretty pieces of the middle east have been distilled into a fragrance. No dust or desert, not super sweet rose or oily, cloying, heavy and dark fragrance, no camels, tents, sand or oasis. Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete is sheer but still super fragrant, it’s like Mr Wasser has added air and space to the denseness of what we expect from the middle east. So wearable and still unusual. Guerlain from top to bottom: but 21st century Guerlain.

The deep dry down is clean sweaty skin, softest, most loved, old suede and resinous myrrh but that is far, far, far into the future. Next morning there are still viable traces of Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete. What a fragrance. Wear it everywhere if you dare.

Songe d'un Bois d'Ete Guerlain Dancers BBC.UKPhoto Stolen BBC.UK

Further reading: The Non Blonde and Olfactoria’s Travels looks at the three Les Déserts d’Orient collection
PlaceVendome in Belguim has €190/75ml and also sends to the world (Birgit bought my bottle there)
Universal Perfumes has Les Déserts d’Orient collection $276/75ml and send to the world
Surrender To Chance has Songe D’Un Bois D’Ete from $4.60/.5ml or has Les Déserts d’Orient 3 x .5ml from $13

Have you tried any of the three Les Déserts d’Orient? What was your favourite? Would you like to?
Till tomorrow we at APJ wish you health, wealth and happiness, and the ability to see them all when they come.
Portia xx

L’Heure Bleue EdP by Raymond Guerlain 1912

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Hey there Perfumed Peeps,

Tonight I’m giving my fresh bathed skin L’Heure Bleue,  the modern EdP from Madeleine’s reject pile. I am totally ignoring my many other new frags for Madeleine’s unloved babies, they are seeing more wear time than anything else right now, even though I’ve still not finished opening bottles from my various travels this year. I am officially a TRAGIC, GREEDY, FRAG HOARDER!!!

L’Heure Bleue EdP (2011) by Raymond Guerlain 1912

L'Heure Bleue Guerlain FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, neroli, aniseed, bergamot, coriander
Heart: Bulgarian rose, carnation, tuberose, violet, cloves, ylang, orchid, heliotrope, neroli
Base: Vanilla, Tonka bean, iris, musk, vetiver, sandalwood, benzoin

There has been much talk of reformulation, IFRA regs etc, especially around some of our long term favourite and historical hallmark perfumes. L’Heure Bleue is a case in point, especially because last year was its centenary and that century has seen so many changes in fashion, materials and consumers taste. My oldest L’Heure Bleue in the collection only goes back to the 1980s and is an EdT. What happens on my skin with the modern EdP?

There is no denying that even in the 30 years across my L’Heure Bleue collection that it is changed. The opening is still definitively Guerlain, all sugared citrus candy and adding in the very slight spicy/herbal tinge. In fact for me the openings are the most similar part of the fragrance life. I can’t parse all the flowers for you but the bouquet is still gorgeous and beyond. Lighter, floatier, fluffier: the powders are silken soft and they waft gently in spring breezes compared to the heft and depth of the vintage. More floral and its lasting power is considerable less. It still has something glorious and fun, like eating PEZ in a bakery’s back alley. MMMMMMM

PEZ WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

It has had some of it’s animalics and dirty back end amputated and towards the very dry down end in about 5-6 hours, depending, I get a very clean laundry musk that first wear surprised the freakin’ shit out of me. It is nice but not something I expect from a Guerlain, maybe a Body Shop. Really, it’s not offensive, just unexpected.

Wearing the current L’Heure Bleue is fear free. I find it polite and wearable in most situations and it has moderate to low sillage now, with good wear life. I will be interested to see how it changes over the next 30 years. If I am extremely lucky.If L’Heure Bleue was released today as it is currently I think we would love it and it would probably come out in the Guerlain exclusives line, especially with DIOR’s Milly-la-Foret and CHANEL’s 28 La Pausa being popular powdery releases by the big guns.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Olfactoria’s Travels
Fragrance Shop has $74/75ml EdP
Surrencer To Chance starts at $3/ml EdP

Have you smelled any of the L’Heure Bleue formulations or strengths? Which is your favourite?
Till tomorrow, waft fragrantly,
Portia xx

Black (Ananda) by Jean-Claude Astier for M. Micallef 2011

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Hello APJ Family and Friends,

Recently they had a 20% off sale at Parfum1 and I had been lemming this bottle for a while, so I naughtily purchased. Some people call this Black and some Black Ananda, maybe because the original white bottle was called Ananda.

Black by M. Micallef 2011

Black M. Micallef FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Amalfi lemon, bitter orange, plum
Heart: Jasmine, tuberose, neroli, ylang ylang
Base: Musk, powder, benzoin, vanilla

Before I write about the fragrance I have to tell you the packaging is seriously gorgeous and the bottle feels like a million dollars when you pick it up. The Drag Queen in me adores the cognac rhinestones on the matte black porcelain bottle and the lid is a harem girls dream. Seriously. I know how shallow that is but couldn’t give a rats, this bottle is beautiful.

Black opens prettily perfumey, it is softer and less intrusive than I expected from its packaging, the plum taking dominance over the citrus. There is so much space between the notes, so sheer, a pastel scarf of finest gauzy silk Georgette. My skin gives an interesting brown sugar waft as the opening slides into the heart. Here we have white flowers being slightly indolic, a little bit retro, and the fragrance gets a touch more oomph but is still extremely ambient, a feeling of space and lightness, introverted fragrance that generates the kind of heft that you expect from body products. It’s close and personal. I can tell Black by M. Micallef has used some good product in the juice, the composition is seamless (so sheer it is hard to tell imperfections really) and clean. What I am most reminded of is a less milky Burberry Brit (towards the end of BBs life), it has a similar spare musky/vanillic/floral wash. For most perfumistas I think Black by M. Micallef will be a big fat yawn.

Black Micallef Calvin Klein mysuperficialendeavorsPhoto Stolen MySuperficialEndeavours

Maybe as a gateway frag from some of the extremely barely there white musks of Bodyshop etc this would seem a logical step, good for a grown up scent for young girls who have only had those before. Also if you want to feel laundry fresh all day but without being definitively laundry, but close.

Surprisingly for the lack of fragrance Black by M. Micallef lasts well, this is the PERFECT scent if you really want to have perfume but work in a frag phobic environment. Also good for people who don’t really like scent but wear it because ,”It’s the thing you do”. The bottle alone is worth having as a piece of art and looks killer in the bathroom, recently on Perfume of Life there was a conversation about growing up surrounded by people who had The One And Only Perfect Bottle of scent that was displayed on dressers or in bathrooms. If you are that kind of person then Black by M. Micallef could be the bottle for you.

Black Micallef Art Nouveau bottle mararie FlickrPhoto Stolen mararie on Flickr (not the Black bottle)

My question to M. Micallef is how can Black be packaged in this outrageous black, gold and cognac diamond bottle? There is a TOTAL disconnect between the enclosure and the juice. It’s like putting Gendarme into the bottle above when you would expect an Amouage/Lutens/Vermeire/Tauer, weird! It reminds me of the Coco Noir conundrum.

Further reading: I could only find sellers who have written about Black. Sandra on Olfactoria’s Travels does a beautiful job with the original Ananda though
Parfum1 has $115/30ml
Surrender To Chance starts at $7/ml

Are you a Micallef fan? Are there any in their range that you adore? Maybe you’ve tried black? What are your thoughts?

Have a lovely fragrant day,
Portia xx

Wedding Fragrance for Grooms + Photo Essay

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Wedding Fragrance for Grooms

As if men don’t enough to worry about on their wedding day…right? You can imagine the poor hung over fools frantically fumbling around at the back of the bathroom cabinet on the morning of the wedding hoping they’d come across some scent Gran had bought them for Christmas eons past…can’t you? I’ve only ever had to prepare a groom for his wedding the once, I was best man for my brother and if he was an example of a typical man on his wedding day it’s a safe bet that pretty much all men fall to pieces in exactly the same way he did! He he he

I’ve been doing a little reading on the interweb to see if there were anything suggesting wedding fragrance for grooms and I was shocked, given that we live in an age of ‘metro sexuality’, that 99.9% of advice regarding which fragrance one might contemplate wearing on the day of nuptials and the exchanging of rings was directed at the bride. Many ‘advice’ rich sources even went so far as to suggest to the bride that she ‘ditch the fragrance he normally wears and buy him something you like instead’! Hang on a cotton-picking-minute! Roll back!! Remember? I clearly suggested in my opening paragraph that men cannot think for themselves. But really?

I hear you laughing already.

D&K Wedding #1

Imagine the chaos if two men were permitted to marry each other! Of course this depends entirely on which country you live in. Well this is exactly what my partner of 15 years and I did two weeks ago. After 12 months of planning we left the backward backwaters of Australia and jetted over to Las Vegas to get married. We were not alone. 35 of our nearest and dearest met us there to celebrate and share the love with us.

D&K Wedding #2

We had almost everything planned, which is no mean feat when we are in Australia and our planner the USA. We had excellent help from a few friends who bent over backwards to make it all come together and run so smoothly. My husband and I were left to our own devices and to make our own decisions (men cannot think for themselves remember) on a number of things, for example where we’d all eat and drink after the ceremony, what colour boutonnières we wanted and what we wanted to wear (very dangerous in my case as I dress for comfort, not style or fashion) and of course this included our personal choice of fragrance.

D&K Wedding #3

My husband played it safe and stayed with a fragrance he already owned and liked, but I went with something new. In my opinion one should wear a fragrance because one loves it. A fragrance can and should make you feel good, evil, safe or dangerous, attractive or aloof…it’s a personal thing right? Incidentally I’m not a fan of purchasing fragrances for other people unless I know they already wear it or have requested it as a gift. So what did we wear?

Tiffany for Men Tiffany FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

I wore Tiffany for Men on the day. I’ve often popped into Tiffany & Co. to spritz myself with his classic as I loved its powdery scent. Imagine how shocked I was firstly to find out it contained patchouli (my favourite) but secondly that Jacques Polge was the nose behind it. I don’t have a sensitive nose at all, but I know what smells good…and this is good. It’s powdery, light and very subtle – perfect for standing in front of a pastor!

Allure Homme Sport Chanel FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

My husband wore Chanel’s Allure Homme Sport. Again, this is another subtle but fresh fragrance and, once the spice from Allure mingled with the spice of Tiffany we were all spicy together! Allure doesn’t smell great on my skin, but, it’s not about me…it’s my husband’s fragrance. Chanel’s Allure Homme Sport is also pastor-friendly and wouldn’t you know it – slap me across the face with a wilted bouquet of roses – Allure Homme Sport is ANOTHER Jacques Polge treasure!

Until next time stinkers.

Kxx

PS. In case you were wondering…yes I did wear white!
David & Kymme wedding

Strawberry Passion Green by Kedra Hart for Skye Botanicals 2012

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Post by Dionne

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Hello APJ,

“Why Don’t You Ever Smell Like Strawberries?” My oldest son, Bones, asked me that one day about three years ago when he was 17. I’d fallen down the rabbit hole about six months previously, and was still in the first flush of my new obsession: chatting about perfume incessantly and lifting my wrist as a smell offering to anyone who walked through my front door.

DelicaciesPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

My husband, The Engineer, and Archimedes (then 15) were interested, and each would eventually discover fragrances for himself that he liked, but Bones just didn’t get it. I have to give him credit that even at the age of 17 he showed enough self-restraint not to tell me how silly he thought the whole thing was, but I’m willing to bet he worked hard not to roll his eyes whenever I proffered a wrist.

When he asked why I wasn’t wafting strawberries, my response at the time was a sarcastic, “Because I’m not a seventeen year-old girl.” To me the question seemed ludicrous; strawberries made me think of Bonne Bell Lip Smackers and Strawberry Shortcake and I, well *I* was a serious perfumista, discovering that iris and incense smelled fantastic on me and getting packages from France and Switzerland and England. Good grief, did he think I shopped at Bath & Body Works?

I cringe a bit now when I type that and face my past snobbery. It’s quite ironic too, when you consider my present love for Pulp, Bombay Bling, Pear + Olive, Philosykos, Bronze Goddess and that apple note in Wazamba. So thankfully I was past my anti-fruit snobbery by 2012 when Monica Miller of Skye Botanicals announced her Strawberry Passion Project.

Strawberry Passion Green by Skye Botanicals

StrawberryPassion-Perfume PharmerPhoto Stolen Perfume Pharmer

PerfumePharmer gives these featured accords:
Top: Pink Pepper/Red Mandarin/Bergamot/Tangerine/ Lemon/ Natural Ivy Accord
Heart : Rose/Tuberose/Boronia/ White Water Lily/ Black Currant/ Natural Peach Accord/ Natural Strawberry Accord
Base: Green Tea/ Amber/ Sandalwood/ Patchouli/ Vanilla/ Vetiver/ Oakmoss/ Beach Found Ambergris

If I understand correctly, the project came about because she’d created some strawberry flower essence at her home in Martha’s Vineyard – flower essences don’t have a smell – and approached Kedra Hart of Opus Oils to create an all-natural strawberry perfume to go with the essence. In the end, two of the mods were so good she offered them to reviewers as semi-finalists with the names Cream and Green, and you could buy samples from her Etsy store.

Cream didn’t get along with my skin chemistry (a pretty common occurrence for me, unfortunately), but oh, that Green! I tend to pull out the sweet notes in a fragrance, so it’s not as green-smelling on me as most of the reviewers reported, but there’s a hint of leaf and stem in there. As I read the list of notes provided, I must admit my nose is not good enough to pick up the disparate threads of pink pepper and mandarin and boronia and tuberose and other ingredients. Basically, I get the most amazing and natural strawberry smell overtop a rich base of vanilla and sandalwood. Holy cow, this is sensual stuff; every time I wear it I get compliments.

 boroniaPhoto Stolen Tricia Flickr

And I have to give major props to the perfumer Kedra Hart. First off, for the 2013 Fifi nomination in the Indie category. But even more than that, this has truly phenomenal sillage and longevity for a natural perfume. Seriously, how did you pull that off? Ten hours in, I still smell fantastic. In fact, even though it’s EDP, I find it wears more like a parfum and prefer it dabbed to sprayed.

StrawberryPassion michellehebert-FlickrPhoto Stolen michellehebert Flickr

Considering the fact that 30ml is $115 at Monica’s Etsy store, that’s a fantastic deal. My bottle is going to last me a looooong time. It’s a good thing I’ll never be too old to wear it.

Dione x

(Ed: Dionne is off camping with her lovely family so she may take a day to respond to your messages, Please do leave a “hello” because sometimes it’s nice to get a line to the real world when you’ve gone bush)

Strawberry Passion Green comes in sample form, a 6ml purse spray and a 30ml bottle.

Neroli Neroli Neroli

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 27 Comments

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Post by Suzanne R Banks

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Neroli Neroli Neroli

Neroli, neroli, neroli. I love it, I love it, I love it.

The oil is produced from the blossom of Citrus aurantia ssp amara or bigarade. It is a powerful, beautifully enchanting blossom fragrance with a little spice and bitter-sweet citrus.

It is an oil that is precious and expensive to make and therefore is mostly sold in a 3% blend. (see my article “Essential Oils 3% in Jojoba – What are they, and Why?” for more information on 3% blends).

Anne Marie Tremoille Bracciano WikiCommonsPhoto stolen WikiCommons

In the world of essential oils and plant-based medicine it is a relative newcomer. While some herbs and oils have been used for thousands of years (lavender, myrrh, frankincense, cypress for example), this scent was made popular in Italy in the 1700′s. The story goes that “by the end of the 17th century, Anne Marie Orsini, duchess of Bracciano and princess of Nerola, Italy, introduced the essence of bitter orange tree as a fashionable fragrance by using it to perfume her gloves and her bath. Since then, the term “neroli” has been used to describe this essence.”

The principality of Nerola is close to Rome where the Princess really worked the diplomacy angle in the Italian capital, securing her future in the courts of France, Spain and Rome. The essence was used particularly in Venice to ward off water born viruses and nasties. She later changed her name and title (when the duke of Bracciano died) to Marie Anne de La Trémoille, princesse des Ursins. Apparently the title was created by herself and had no real credit, but her influence in politics remained until her death.

Neroli Orange Blossom FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Thank goodness she was a scented visionary and left us with a love of this beautiful flower and perfume.

In aromatherapy neroli is therapeutically used for –

* relieving tension and anxiety, depression and melancholy

* sleeplessness

* improving the look and feel of facial skin by reducing the look of small capillaries

* some claims say it can be beneficial in treating muscle spasms and is also used in heart patients – massaged over the heart

Neroli is best used therapeutically as a sedating agent and for a treatment against anxiety and depression. Perhaps the small white flower allows one to open to the simple beauty of life.

Neroli Bitter Orange Tree PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Try these recipes:

1. Facial Oil

Use Neroli 3% straight from the bottle as a moisturiser or an overnight treatment. The scent will be heavenly and will soothe and calm your skin.

2. Pure Pulse Point Perfume

Once again use this oil straight from the bottle as a perfume. I always get comments when I wear Neroli as it appeals to men and women.

3. Nourishing Body Oil

Add these oils to 3 teaspoons of carrier oil for an all-over body moisturiser –

Neroli Disneyland Princesses WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

“Princess”

Neroli 3% 21 drops

Neroli Feminine Rainbow Power FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

“Feminine Power”

Neroli 3% 9 drops

Cardamon 1 drop

Rosewood 3 drops

Neroli Influence Smemon FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

“Influence”

Neroli 3% 9 drops

Fennel 1 drop

Patchouli 1 drop

Orange 2 drops

Neroli Citrus Aurantium WikiCommonsPhoto Stolen WikiCommons

Remember to use your intention when making a blend or using an essential oils as a perfume. You will be creating your life!

Suzanne R Banks

Suzanne R Banks Blog
Suzanne R Banks Aromatherapy
Suzanne R Banks FaceBook

Brie’s Fragrant and Edible Delights

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Post by Brie

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Local NYC Artisanal Fragrant and Edible Delights

Soap and Paper Factory/ Harney and Sons Teas/ Sweetniks

When my middle daughter turned thirteen she decided that she wanted to celebrate with a NYC shopping extravaganza. Much to my horror she chose Black Friday as the day to do it.
After spending literally all day waiting on long cashier lines and dodging Japanese and German picture taking tourists on the streets of Manhattan we arrived at Grand Central Station in the evening completely depleted. Having a few minutes to spare before our Metro North train arrived I spotted in an alcove a multitude of booths set up by local artisanal artists selling their products.

Soap and Paper Factory Shea Butter Bois de Santal Hand Cream

Bois De SantalPhoto Stolen soapandpaperfactory

Those who know me well can attest to the fact that I am a strong supporter and advocate of purchasing from local and artisanal companies. So it was no surprise that I high-tailed it over to one of the booths, the Soap and Paper Factory Company which calls Congers, New York its home. What my eyes witnessed were a large assortment of all natural solid perfumes, shea butter hand creams, natural soaps and soy candles- a deluge of olfactory delights hand poured in recyclable, eye popping packaging. I immediately purchased Bois de Santal shea butter hand cream, a bourbon vanilla and sandalwood amalgamation. The shea butter makes this cream uber-luxurious and the decadently sweet scent lasts for hours and hours. (Ed: At this time they are currently out of stock of Bois de Santal but there are plenty of others)

Harney and Sons Vanilla Comoro Tea

Photo Stolen Harney&Sons

I discovered Harney and Son Teas at a small local farmers market in upstate New York. It is one of my absolute favorite tea companies and produces high quality loose teas, tisanes and tea bags beautifully packaged in tetraheaval silken sachet pouches. A relatively short scenic drive through bucolic landscape brings me to their factory and store in Millerton, New York. Vanilla Comoro, a decaffeinated black tea nuanced with boozy vanilla notes is the perfect accompaniment to Bois de Santal.

Sweetniks Candy Bacon Spiced Pecan Nougat

Photo Stolen Sweetniks

Finally, my introduction to Sweetniks was through http://www.coolcookstyle.com. This local artisanal candy company based in New York City conjures up a perfume lover’s wildest fragrant candy desires. My absolutely favorite offers from Sweetniks are the Candied Bacon Spiced Pecan Nougats. These spicy bourbon scented nougats with bacon and pecans are what I nibble on whilst drinking my Vanilla Comoro Tea with the scent of Bois de Santal Shea butter hand cream wafting from my delicate little fingers…. utterly delightful!

Do please go and visit these artisanal stores websites, each name is its own jump.

Soap And Paper Factory (Please write to the Contact Us email for Outside US Shipping)

Harney & Sons Teas

Sweetniks (USA Only unless you contact them)

See you next month,

Brie x

(Ed: Brie wrote this post ahead. She may not answer your comments but please leave some in case she drops in. I, Portia, will answer though)

Milano Caffe GIVEAWAY WINNER

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 7 Comments

Hey there all,

We have had a lovely response for the Milano Caffe Giveaway. Thank you all so much for getting involved, I hope you also took a moment to go and follow the La Via del Profumo crew on twitter. If not this is the handle: @LaViaDelProfumo

Milano Caffe GIVEAWAY WINNER

Milano Caffe FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

1 x 2ml Manufacturers Sample of Milano Caffe
1 x 2ml Manufacturers Sample of Palermo Don Corleone
1 x 2ml Manufacturers Sample of Venezia Giardini Segrett
P&H Anywhere in the world

These are remains after I have sampled them so not exactly 2ml (1.5-2ml)

HOW DID YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You had to go to La Via Del Profumo and find me ONE perfume and ONE of its ingredients. NO DOUBLE UPS!! EASY!

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday August 4 2013 10pm Australian EST.
Winner chosen by putting names on same sized papers, folded similarly, put on a tray and Jin picked a winner. He hardly even looked up from his iPad because he is choosing a hotel for a weekend in Melbourne. YAY!! I love Melbourne, can’t wait.

AND THE

Winner ganjerPhoto Stolen ganjer

NATALIE

CONGRATULATIONS!! You have till Thursday August 8 2013 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Thanks everyone!!

Portia xx

Burberry Brit Parfum by Nathalie Cracia-Getto 2003

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 15 Comments

Hey there Stink Monkeys,

Recently they had a big sale at Parfum1 and I wanted to know what they had done to Burberry Brit that made them want to produce it as an extrait version. Even why they did it has me baffled, unless it was made purely to sell as a top of the range glam moment for men to buy their girlies when hunting for that elusive something that says “I know you, your taste and want the best for you.”

Burberry Brit Parfum 2003

Burberry Brit Parfum 99perfumePhoto Stolen 99Perfume

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Green lemon, pear, almond
Heart: White peony
Base: Vanilla, amber, mahogany, tonka bean

The Burberry box and the bottles shape, heft and colouring are all fabulous and fun, I enjoyed the process of opening up the package the first time and continue to do so every time I go back for a spritz.

So Burberry Brit Parfum opens in the extremely popular hefty sheer way that so many perfumes of the new millenium do, was Gucci Rush or Kenzo Flower among the first? It was a step from watery ozonic to floral but with a delicacy like a silk crêpe Georgette scarf that has been heavily printed, or do you remember those Versace silk shirts in the 1990s? You could see flesh and muscle through them but the patterns were bold and intricate. This family of fragrances is a soft shimmer of perfume but with fabulous sillage and projection. They are like a neon light, no heat but extra full on light.

 BurberryPhoto Stolen WearIt.com

The pear is the same fake pear that you would expect , sweet and fizzy, but the almond meal/milk scent grounds it beautifully. I am so embarrassed by how much I enjoy Burberry Brit Parfum. I can understand why it is so popular, well understand why the EdT and EdP have remained constant great sellers and why they decided to do a parfum. The peony has a overblown, blousy, 3 days in their water smell that is my favourite time of peonies, they are on the verge of fully opened and their promise is palpable still. Such a wonderful flower, does anyone grow them? Do you have hints? I’m not sure our winters are cold enough here in Sydney, Australia? The milky almond meal comes back in later and melds beautifully with the amber and vanilla before we hit deep dry down.

The dry down is pretty sweet vanillic woods, slightly generic. There’s a reason that it is so common, it’s pretty and wearable and doesn’t get cloying or annoying. That fades and your left with very slightly better smelling skin, nondescript but better.

Burberry Trench Platinum FlickrPhoto Stolen Platinum

I am getting between 3-4 hours fully fragrant and then a long time in dry down, even next morning there are traces.

Further reading: Now Smell This and Perfume.org(Ellen’s blog)
Parfum1 has $35/15ml
My Perfume Samples has a great Burberry Brit selection starting at $2/ml, sadly no parfum

Have you ever been happily surprised by a fragrance that you thought you’d dislike?
See you tomorrow,

Portia xx

Shanti Shanti by Miller et Bertaux 2008

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 17 Comments

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Hello lovers of fine fragrance,

I think this little gem came in my box of goodies from Birgit or Sandra at Olfactoria’s Travels but I could be wrong, it may have been from Sheila at The Alembicated Genie or even as a Gift With Purchase. It is a manufacturers carded sample in a beautiful heavy, matte, white card with silver writing and inside was a 2ml dab vial that I immediately upon opening decanted into a spritzer to get the scent thatv you would get from the bottle.

Shanti Shanti by Miller et Bertaux 2008

Shanti Shanti Miller et Bertaux FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Bulgaria rose, iris, warm spices, cardamom, patchouli, sandalwood

LibertineParfumerie gives this list:
Top: Rose (Bulgarian or Damascene)
Heart: Iris, rose (Baie)
Base: Cardamom, patchouli, sandalwood (Indian)

Rose, ROSE, a big, wet, musky, sweet, spicy rose with tea facets and a little leaf and twig. Clean and fresh, no hint of manure or humus, like sitting in the middle of a field of roses very early in the morning and it’s cold, as the sun comes up it warms the flowers and the dew and fragrance flies, on an icy but stunningly fragrant breeze. Thank goodness for the thermos of tea because otherwise you’d be freezing. Adult rose, manly rose, green, crisp and alive are all things I’ve jotted while sniffing. It’s a wonderful opening.

Shanti Shanti Rose Fields Woodborough WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

As Shanti Shanti settles the rose stays and is joined by cool, rooty, powdery iris but it feels very musk also, maybe the thing that my nose/brain thinks is musk is another ingredient. At two hours wear time and though the fragrance has softened appreciable it still is a very fresh green rose, I can just detect some sandalwood/patchouli/cardamom but it’s a green, milky softness rather than each note separately. Shanti Shanti has work quite linear really, not much story, but not boring either. That they have kept it so defiantly green is beautiful, I bet this would be a fabulous Summer scent.

Why is it called Shanti Shanti? Shanti (from Sanskrit शान्तिः śāntiḥ) means peace, rest. Yes, this is extremely peaceful and restful, the final dry down has a musk and herbal tinge over the rose that could with your eyes squinted and a bit of imagination be a referral to India, but only the travel brochure pictures of India not physically being there.

Shanti Shanti Bulgaria Rose Bulgaria-TripsPhoto Stolen Bulgaria-Trips

Shanti Shanti has opening heft, I am decidedly fragrant but it would take mega spritzes to get skunkish. After an hour it calms to a light, but not too light, fresh fragrance that is green and clean without being generic or laundry. Like a breath of fresh air all day, well for around 5-6 hours.

Further reading: PerfumeNW and Perfume Posse: both these reviews are smaller bites in a post but I couldn’t find others on the first 3 pages of Google. Sorry. They’re both worth a read though because they catch stuff I miss.LibertineParfumerie has $195/100ml including FREE Australian Shipping
First In Fragrance has €94/100ml and does samples €4

Shanti Shanti Red Gown Alianna Logan FlickrPhoto Stolen Alianna Logan Flickr

See how this girl is both elegant, dressed up, lovingly thought out but then her hair is artfully disarrayed, that’s how Shanti Shanti feels. Perfect but comfortably so. Miller et Bertaux is a line that I keep coming across and I think I like them very much. Spiritus/Land #2, A Quiet Morning and now Shanti Shanti have all been winners for Jin & I.

Have you tried any of the Miller et Bertaux fragrances? If so, what did you think? If not, are they now on your radar?
See you tomorrow,
Portia xx