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Coco vintage parfum by CHANEL: Live Video Sniff

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Post by Portia

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Hey there Frag Heads,

Yes, Scott and I at it again. We did a bunch of these over a few weeks. Really there’s not much content but the excitement of documenting our opening ceremonies and the sillines we go on with makes me smile while watching them back. We are idiots but having a good time.

Please enjoy,
Portia xxx

Coco by CHANEL 1984

Coco FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Coriander, pomegranate blossom, mandarin orange, peach, jasmine and Bulgarian rose
Heart: Mimose, cloves, orange blossom, clover and rose
Base: Labdanum, amber, sandalwood, tonka bean, opoponax, civet and vanilla

SurrenderToChance has EdT samples starting at $3/ml

 

Amarige by Dominique Ropion for Givenchy 1991

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Post by Anne-Marie

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A little while ago I did a round-up of print and online reviews of one of the most reviled perfumes on the counter: Givenchy’s Amarige. Now I’d like to share my own views. An astute reader will probably have decided that I would not be going to this much trouble if I hated Amarige, and you are right. I do love it. So THERE!

 Amarige by Givenchy 1991

 Amarige by Dominique Ropion

 

Amarige Givenchy FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin, Neroli, Peach, Plum, Rosewood, Violet Heart
Heart: Gardenia, Carnation, Jasmine, Cassia, Mimosa, Orchid, Black locust, Rose, Red berries, Black currant, Tuberose, Ylang-ylang
Base: Amber, Woody notes, Musk, Sandalwood, Tonka bean, Vanilla, Cedar

Firstly, the notes (deep breath):
Top: orange blossom, plum, mandarin, violet, peach, neroli, Brazilian rosewood.
Heart: red berries, mimosa, carnation, black locust, tuberose, blackcurrant, gardenia, casie, orchids, jasmine, ylang ylang, rose.
Base: sandalwood, tonka, amber, musk, vanilla, woody notes, cedar

How does it smell to me? I don’t much bother trying to separate the notes. To me Amarige smells of peaches, white flowers, and sunshine. Yellow is a dominant colour in the marketing and while I don’t dress in yellow, I get my ‘yellow’ from Amarige. It’s a colour – and a scent – of confidence, happiness and optimism.

Amarige’s bottle was designed by Pierre Dinand and inspired by a blouse Hubert de Givenchy had designed in 1952 for his model, muse and some time press agent, Bettina Graziani. High-collared and narrow at the waist, the sleeves of the ‘Bettina blouse’ were deeply ruffled with broderie anglaise, and those ruffles are referenced in the cap on the bottle.

Amarige Givenchy Bettina Blouse PinterestPhoto Stolen Pinterest

Tuberose? I compared Amarige with other ‘scoundrels’ (Luca Turin’s word) of the era: Giorgio of Beverly Hills and Elizabeth Arden’s Red Door. The tuberose in those is indeed very and harsh and synthetic, to my nose, whereas in Amarige the tuberose is balanced and blended with other notes, especially that joyful peach.

Too strong? Oh for goodness sake! Just wear less. Nobody is forcing you to spritz Amarige 16 times, are they? What? Your Auntie Sharon did actually spritz it 16 times, back in the 90s? Well good on her. She smelled better than if she had been wearing any amount of Issey Miyake. Yes she did.

Speaking of Issey Miyake, some perfume critics write of the 90s as a time of freshness and restraint in perfume. In the 80s, perfumes were too strong and we all wore too much. In the 90s we detoxed, apparently, on fragrances like Calvin Klein’s CK One and Clinique’s Happy. But no, that’s not quite true. The divas kept coming. Not just Amarige, but Lancome’s Trésor and Poème, Liz Taylor’s White Diamonds, Gucci’s L’Arte di Gucci and Rush, Thierry Mugler’s Angel, YSL’s Yvresse, Hermès’ 24 Faubourg, Dior’s Docle Vita and J’Adore, and Chanel’s Allure.

And yet the clean watery fragrances did sell like crazy, so perhaps the only explanation is that they were bought by people who would otherwise not wear fragrance at all – memories of Auntie Sharon – meaning that the fragrance market overall must have expanded in the 1990s.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

FragranceNet has $28/30ml
My Perfume Samples starts at $2/ml

I started out with Amarige and have ended up with 90s fruity florals in general.
What do you think? A good era for perfume, the 90s? Or … not?

Mugler: Interview with David Koma

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Post by Portia

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Hey there Fashion/Perfumistas,

David Koma has been fairly circumspect about his Creative Directorship of house Mugler. It’s nice to see him interviewed and find out a little about the boy who has brought the Mugler label into the 21st century. Don’t be expecting the outrageous shock value pieces of Mugler past, this is a sleeker, cooler and richer model. So sharp you could be bored until you notice the detail, the impossible patternmaking he puts his crew through and the ultimate genuflection to the young, lithe, shapely female form.

Mugler SS16-look31 David KomaPhoto Stolen Mugler

I hope you enjoy it,
Portia xxx

Mugler: Interview with David Koma

Alien by Thierry Mugler: A Sambac Story – Official Film

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Post by Portia

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It’s not often that the Thierry Mugler crew bring out a video about their fragrances so I got pretty excited when this landed in my box. Then to watch it and see that it’s not really about Alien the fragrance but more about harvesting sambac jasmine in India and you can colour me thrilled.

I hope you enjoy the 3.30m film
Portia xx

Alien by Thierry Mugler 2005

Alien by Dominique Ropion + Laurent Bruyere.

Alien Thierry Mugler FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Jasmine sambac, Cashmere wood, Ambergris

Alien, Thierry Mugler: A Sambac Story – Official Film. Alien was crafted from the powerful idea of the sun’s rays conveyed in the form of a raw block of intense ingredients. This was based on an accord of natural sambac jasmine, the most powerful jasmine scent, echoed by a duo of amber and wood.

Alien, Thierry Mugler: A Sambac Story – Official Film

Val CQ’s Christmas GIVEAWAY WINNERS!

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Post by Portia

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Thanks Val for a superv fun and fabulous giveaway. You are so generous.

Merry christmas all,
Portia xx

Val CQ’s Christmas GIVEAWAY WINNERS!

Val Cookie Queen Hermes Vero ProfumoPhoto Donated Val

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have one winner who will receive:
1 each decants Mito and Cuir d’Ange (from Val’s bottles)
P&H Worldwide

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Thursday 24th December 2015 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosenfrom the armadillo

WINNERS markmontanoblogsPhoto Stolen markmontanoblogs

Mito

GARA

Ingeborg

Cuir d’Ange

BB Mc

The winner will have till Monday 28th December 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Poison by Edouard Flechier for Christian Dior 1985

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Post by Joseph Sagona

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Hi APJ,

Review #300

I have a history with Poison, it’s one of my Mothers all time favorite perfumes, she still wears it to this day, every time I wear it, it reminds me of her. I can remember being nine years old and going into my Mother’s bed room and on top of her dresser would be that beautiful purple bottle of Poison, I would steal a few sprays here and there, I loved the smell so much, it was so sweet and fruity.

My Mother has no idea that I do fragrance reviews, she would probably wonder why I do them, so I never told her, but she does know I love fragrance. This review I will show her, I want her to know how much I love her and what she means to me, and for her to know that Poison is the fragrance that started me on my love, passion and amazing journey of fragrances today.

Poison by Christian Dior 1985

Poison by Edouard Flechier

Poison Christian Dior FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Brazillian rosewood, plum, wild berries, anise, coriander
Heart: Carnation, jasmine, opoponax, African orange flower, tuberose, white honey, rose, incense, cinnamon
Base: Virginian cedar, heliotrope, amber, vanilla, vetiver, sandalwood, musk

Dior’s Poison is the type of fragrance that you have to have attitude and confidence to wear, it is strong, classy, elegant, charming, sophisticated and bitchy.

I get the Plum, White Honey, Incense, Wild Berries, Tuberose and Cinnamon it opens up with a lush, dark plum and a tart, sweet wild berries, the dark plum and wild berries are strong. Then after thirty minutes the plum dissipates, the wild berries soften, in comes a dry, aromatic cinnamon and a whispering, creamy tuberose, the cinnamon is soft, the tuberose is mild.

After three hours the cinnamon dissipate and the tuberose softens. In comes a golden, silky white honey and a warm incense with a touch of sweetness, the honey and incense are mild.

Poison Christian Dior Ad FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Poison reminds me of Jeanne Arthes Cobra, and Christian Dior’s Poison Extrait, Cobra is spicier, citric and stronger woods, Poison Extrait has stronger florals, softer spices and comes off soapy.

Poison is very fruity, sweet, dark, floral, syrupy and unisex. It leans more towards the feminine side, with soft woody and spicy undertones: a floral fragrance. This can be worn all year ’round, it would be better suited for the Fall and Winter, I get good projection and good longevity, a Christian Dior masterpiece.

Poison Christian Dior Ad 1 FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Further reading: Yesterday’s Perfume and Black Narcissus
FragranceNet has $73/50ml before Coupon
My Perfume Samples starts at $2.50/ml

What is your Poison? Have you ever worn it?
Joseph Sagona

CHANEL: Paris in Rome 2015/16 Métiers d’Art show

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Post by Portia

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Hey Crew,

it’s another beautiful season at CHANEL. Karl Lagerfeld has worked his magic, or pushed others to work theirs, and the results are so wearable. This is beautiful fabrics cut perfectly and I can see the wealthy CHANEL devotees lapping this stuff up. Bravo! Not really groundbreaking but some interesting reinterpretations and some fun frivolities. The girls makeups all look so soft and I also am happy the beehive is on a return.

I put the Behind The Scenes first because it’s only a few minutes but if you have the time check out the full show. Fabulous.
Portia xx

CHANEL 2015:16 Métiers d’Art showPhoto Stolen CHANEL

CHANEL: 2015/16 Métiers d’Art show

Behind the Scenes Film – Paris in Rome

CHANEL: Paris in Rome 2015/16 Métiers d’Art show

ck2 by Calvin Klein 2016: New Ad

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Post by Portia

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Hey Gang,

New stuff from Calvin Klein is always enough to set my heart aflutter. Though I was never a big wearer of the Calvin Klein range I was surrounded by it and once I did discover them, either through memory or their general bonhomie, I really enjoy them. There are quite a few in the collection now. Some vintage, some new, all worn with enjoyment.

ck2 by Calvin Klein 2016

CK2 Calvin Klein FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Wasabi, mandarin, violet leaf
Heart: Wet cobblestones, concrete, pebbles, orris root, rose absolute
Base: Vetiver, sandalwood, incense

They are saying available 2016 but I think it might be already available some places. Cool bottle.

CK2 Advert Calvin Klein FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

ck2 by Calvin Klein 2016: New Ad

The ad is cool. MOST of Calvin Klein’s ads are cool, this one goes a step further. Even hinting at same sex couples. I love the gritty fun rawness it captures, like remembering a summer of love in the depths of winter.
Enjoy,
Portia xx

Lann-Aël by Amélie Bourgeois for Lostmarc’h 2007

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Post by Portia

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The Lostmarc’h thing passed me by. I remember there being a flurry of excitement at release but since then I haven’t really noticed much buzz. Someone sent me a handwritten sample of todays fragrance and I had to go do some digging once I sprayed. Having been released in 2007 and still around in the current niche market speaks volumes, also its price is unbelievably reasonable for niche. It was nearly impossible to get into the decant, which is why it’s taken so long to get to it but curiosity can overcome all barriers. I think I may be hooked….

Lann-Aël by Lostmarc’h 2007

Lann-Aël by Amélie Bourgeois

Lann-Ael Lostmarch FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Vanilla, hay, apple, wheat, milk

The Lann-Aël opening is slightly dry and a hint of apple but no big whack of it. Quite rightly, general consensus on the blogs is sweet breakfast cereal, think Fruit Loops or Crunchy Nut Cornflakes, sugary, a little nutty and with milk splashed over all liberally. It’s not the smell in the bowl though, no way, it’s the smell in your mouth as you start to chomp it all together.

Lann-Aël by Lostmarc'h crunchy nut cornflakes Breakfast WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

There’s something a little rice-ish about Lann-Aël, Jin’s rice has a very particular smell when he reheats it in the microwave and I am getting scent memory flashes. No wonder this is a hit. It’s summer here in Sydney, temperature is around 35C (95F) at 10am and the sweet warmth of Lann-Aël and its yummy vanilla dry down is working a treat. Not cloying or sickly but balmy and rich feeling.

The opening is the big ticket item in Lann-Aël, after that it smooths to a comfortable vanilla plus some light spices and resins, a sweet amber. It’s not bad or generic but it isn’t ground breaking either. I smell good for hours, 5-6 even in this heat.

Lann-Aël by Lostmarc'h Fairy_passage WikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

From LuckyScent: Breakfast in fairyland: lighter-than-air buckwheat cakes; bowls of warm, pudding like cereal topped with cream ladled from the top of the milking bucket; sweet apples “borrowed” by the pixies from a nearby orchard. A delectable honeyed fruit opening eases into a soft and mellow vanilla-tinged milkiness that is as comforting as a mother’s embrace.

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Perfume Posse
LuckyScent has $85/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $3/ml

Do you ever feel the need to wear something fun, frivolous and foody? This could be it for you
Portia xx

Last Minute Gift List 2015

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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Hello Australian Perfume Junkies!

How are you coping with the fast approaching “festive season?!” At this point most are either in their element or completely over it! Which are you? If you are like me you might still need to buy some gifts, so I thought I would make another little list of some favorite products I personally recommend…all scent-based of course!

PS Remember: you can just highlight the relevant items and hope Santa or someone finds it and takes the hint!

Last Minute Gift List 2015

Perfume Legends – French Feminine Fragrances Michael Edwards

Perfume Legends – French Feminine Fragrances by Michael Edwards
I bought this special classic book from Amazon last year (approx. $195) and it’s worth its weight in gold. The ultimate gift for anyone with an interest in history and perfumery right through to design buffs, fashionistas, French obsessed and complete fragrance heads. The book is now out of print and is a collector’s item, yet second hand copies still do pop up on eBay/amazon. The ultimate cult coffee table book, who’s content continually expands my depth of knowledge on fragrance and the fragrance industry, as I flick through its beautiful pages. I would like to halt time so I can cozy up and read it from cover to cover a few more times.

L’Artisan L’Hiver reed diffuser LibertinePhoto Stolen Libertine Perfumery

L’Artisan L’Hiver reed diffuser
I have always resisted reed diffusers, however this one is truly delicious. I bought the same fragrance last year in candle form and enjoyed it, but here in diffuser form the fragrance is set off nicely with a great throw. The scent is not too “up the nose” and rather floats around in an atmospheric way. A possibly more appropriate method to create Christmas ambience during the complete fire ban across most of Australia at this time of year. Pine needles, smoky wood all riding on a sweet, dry vanillin/wood base. A personal favorite home scent available from Libertine Perfumery and online for $96.

Santa Maria Novella – Wax TabletsPhoto Stolen Santa Maria Novella

Santa Maria Novella – Wax Tablets
Beautiful and distinctive are Santa Maria’s scented beeswax tablets which for wardrobes or placed in draws to scent clothes and repel moths. Gorgeously packaged and old-worldly to look at, each tablet is decorated with flowers and dried fruits by hand. The scent is super strong so I am just using one at a time. If they were not so beautiful I would break one in half, as that would be plenty for each draw. Peony Melbourne and Franque Melbourne are the stockists in Australia I have seen them in. I have Relax Orange but there was a rose, pot pouri and lavender available too. $48

PrintPhoto Stolen The Beauty Apothecary

Edible Beauty – Exotic Goddess Ageless Serum
This Hyaluronic acid based natural serum gives skin additional hydration without adding more oil or grease. I have been adding it under my normal moisturizer and tinted sunscreen to help my skin hold onto more moisture on these hot days AND it’s weightless! Skin stays nice and plump and on top of that I just LOVE LOVE LOVE the smell. It makes me happy every time I slap it on! Available from Sephora and The Beauty Apothecary

Please let us hear about any yummy scent-based presents you are giving or wanting this Christmas??