Christmas Perfume Masterclasses: Ainslie Walker + Nick Smart

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Post by Portia

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Hey gang,

OMG! Christmas is almost here!! For many small businesses they are so busy that they don’t have a moment to ask themselves what they will do with and for the staff this year as a Thank you. The eternal question “What are we going to do for our Christmas Party?” has just found an extraordinary answer. Why not treat your team to a Perfume Masterclass?

Christmas Perfume Masterclasses

Ainslie Walker + Nick Smart

Here’s how we think it. It usually costs about $150-300/head to do something fun and fabulous for your Christmas Party. Why not take your people to a Perfume Masterclass and give them each a $100 Gift Voucher towards a fragrance at their Libertine Perfume Masterclass. There will be a glass of bubbles, some nibbles and they’ll really learn something fun and helpful over the 2 hours. They’ll learn about their perfume preferences.

Sydney Libertine Masterclass #3

Great for the girls and the guys, who doesn’t want to look a little more savvy when shopping for their next fragrance. Ainslie and Nick will help with your fragrant vocabulary too so you will have an easier time explaining to sales assistants exactly what you want in a scent for yourself or loved ones.

Maximum of 15 people per class

AINSLIE_WALKER Libertine Masterclass

Amouage Love GIVEAWAY WINNER

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Post by Portia

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Thanks to Amouage and Nick from Libertine Parfumerie for this amazing giveaway. Can’t wait to see who’s won,

Portia xx

Amouage Love GIVEAWAY WINNER

Amouage Love Room Spray Photo Stolen Amouage

Amouage has room sprays £55

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 winner who will receive:
1 x Amouage Love Room Spray Tester (No box, 90% full)
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 18th October 2015 10pm Australian EST
Winner was chosen by random.org

winner sistersavealot.comPhoto Stolen sistersavealot

puhfume

The winner will have till Thursday 22nd October 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Dior Prestige: From the Rose to the Skin: Film

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Post by Portia

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DIOR. One of the great western fashion houses that even the name gives me a thrill of lux. Its history, even its modern change from Galliano to Simmons. I love the current way the house is moving, though now that the Exclusives line is available in department stores it doesn’t feel so exclusive. The crew down at our Sydney DIOR standalone store are wonderful, always ask for Jolanta when you’re there (she doesn’t work Mondays) because she will take extra special care if you tell her Portia from Australian Perfume Junkies sent you.

Dior Prestige Christian Dior 1

Anyway, I love the DIOR ads and this one is no exception,

I hope you enjoy it,
Portia xx

Dior Prestige – From the Rose to the Skin

 

Dior Prestige Christian Dior

No, not affiliated, just love their stuff.

The Mini Museum & Esscentual Alchemy – Unguent, Unguentarium & U Tour

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Post by Azar

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Hello APJ,

Several years ago both Brad and I collected all kinds of antiques. We were such crazy collectors that at one point our home began to take on the aspect of a museum. When we moved from that very old house (by American standards an antique in it’s own right) into a larger, more “modern” 1960s home, we gave away or sold many of our old “treasures”. In our new house we resolved to maintain a clean, spare look and try not to become burdened by our stuff. Well, as you probably have guessed, that resolution didn’t last. These days we don’t feel quite so driven to possess used things but we still like the look and feel of something old. I believe that I can sense another person’s way of life or spirit in a vintage piece, not unlike the experience of using someone else’s pen or pencil. For example, when I play a friend’s musical instrument I find it has taken on certain aspects of the musicality of the person who regularly uses it. This phenomenon may be the result of an actual physical change in the instrument’s materials brought on by years of exposure to the player’s individual style.

The Mini Museum & Esscentual Alchemy

Unguent, Unguentarium & U Tour

That being said, toward the end of the summer we were eagerly awaiting the arrival of an unguentarium and two other ancient miniature glass pieces from the Mini Museum’s Unguent, Unguentarium and U Tour. It was a weird experience when we finally opened the boxes. The unguentarium, a very small (just over 4cm high) mouth blown glass bottle, encrusted with sediment, was from the early Roman period, circa the 1st century A.D. It was carefully packaged in sand to give the impression of an archeological dig. An unguentarium (from the Latin unguentarius, a perfumer or dealer in unguents) is a small vessel designed to hold liquid, solid or semi-solid perfumes, cosmetics, perfumed oils, etc. These little bottles can still be found in ancient Greek and Roman sites, especially in tombs.

Unguent, Unguentarium & U Tour #1

Unguent, Unguentarium & U Tour #2

My favorite of the three artifacts was a longer (7.30 cm), narrower and seemingly more delicate bottle, also of mouth blown glass dating from roughly the same period. This lovely little piece was called a lachrymatory – a vessel for tears or a tear catcher – also used to hold perfumes, fragrant oils and unguents. It is believed that the ancients used these bottles to gather their tears, burying them with their deceased loved ones.

Unguent, Unguentarium & U Tour #4

Unguent, Unguentarium & U Tour #3

The third artifact was a tiny blown glass mold form probably created around 50. A.D. in Phoenicia (modern Lebanon).

Unguent, Unguentarium & U Tour #5

Unguent, Unguentarium & U Tour #6

In addition to the three ancient minis there were two modern perfume samples, created by perfumer Amanda Feeley of Essential Alchemy specifically for this Mini Museum traveling unguentraium project. Here is a brief description of these fragrances from the museum’s fact sheets:

” ‘Helena’ is the chosen name for both the ancient vessel…and the commissioned re-creation of [an] ancient Roman unguent by perfumer, Amanda Feeley. In her meditation with the vial, Amanda ‘felt an image of a woman in a garden on a warm, spring day’…The end result was her ‘Helena’ – the reconstructed, oil-based fragrance of 30% parfum concentration and ‘Helena MMXIV’ – the brighter, alcohol-based eau de parfum…”

For more information about these beautiful fragrances check Amanda Feeley’s website. I understand there will be another Unguentarium Tour next year. If you are interested in the project contact Allen at the Miniature Perfume Shoppe/Mini Museum

Azar xx

La Panthère by Mathilde Laurent for Cartier 2014

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Post by Anne-Marie

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I first tried La Panthère in an airport hotel in Sydney. My colleague and I had missed a connecting flight to our home city. It was late, and we were tired and cross. But in the end I thought there seemed nothing for it but to relax, have a shower, order room service, and crack open a Cartier mini set I’d bought in Paris at Charles de Gaulle airport. Fun

It happened that I did not have internet access that evening, so I was testing blind.

La Panthère by Cartier 2014

La Panthère by Mathilde Laurent

La Panthere Cartier FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Rhubarb, strawberry, dried fruits, anise, bergamot
Heart: Gardenia, orange blossom, pear, rose, ylang ylang
Base: Musk, oakmoss, patchouli, leather

In the absence of this information I panicked a bit because the opening of La Panthère seemed strident, almost screechy. It reminded me of fragrances I dislike including Dior’s J’Adore and Miss Dior Cherie, and Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle. I thought I’d made a mistake. But during the night as I woke up momentarily here and there I was delighted in a drowsy way with what I could smell: a very intimate scent of warm contented skin, not animalic, but sexy as hell.

IMG_0239Photo Stolen Flickr

Gardenia is not something I know well, either as a flower or a perfume note so I can’t comment much on its use here except that I like it. And what saves La Panthère for me in particular is its chypre-like character. A lot of reviewers find it a chic, elegant, intelligent fragrance and I agree. Fruity chypre it may be, but La Panthère is too vivid and modern to really stand comparison with classical greats like Guerlain’s Mitsouko or Rochas’ Femme. It’s cleaner than YSL’s Yvresse and more supple than Badgely Mischka, which seems lugubrious next to La Panthère.

That brightness stays all the way through the life of the fragrance on my skin, and a few generous dabs from a mini lasts me ALL DAY. I could be extra-sensitive to notes like strawberry, rhubarb and pear – normally I hate them – and that’s maybe why La Panthère won’t quite leave me alone. I like it very much but by the end of the day I’m often rather tired of it.

La Panthere Cartier High Heels William Murphy FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Showering it off is like kicking off a pair of gorgeous but tight little shoes. Ahhh, that’s better. Looking back, I’m surprised I slept so well that first night I wore La Panthère . Like the shoes, La Panthère is wonderful to put on and wonderful to take off.

Further reading: Bois de Jasmin and Perfume Posse
FragranceNet has $83/50ml before Coupon
My Perfume Samples has $3/ml to $9/5ml

Do you have a ‘chic little shoe’ fragrance?

Until next time, keep spritzing!
Anne-Marie xx

Cartier – La Panthère, the feminine fragrance

Narcisse Noir by Ernest Daltroff for Caron 1911

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Post by Portia

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Hi there Vintage Vamps,

A while back I stumbled across someone’s Sale Document in Facebook Fragrance Friends and on the list were some lovely fragrances that I really wanted to try in their vintage form. One in particular was the last couple of ml of a Caron scent that was, and still is, based around one of my favourite notes Narcissus, it is Narcisse Noir…

Narcisse Noir by Caron 1911

Narcisse Noir by Ernest Daltroff

Narcisse Noir Caron FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: African orange flower, narcissus
Heart: Jasmine, orange, tincture of rose
Base: Vetyver, musk, sandalwood

Narcisse Noir opens with a lovely soapy orange blossom curled around narcissus. Not the potent feral narcissus of the absolue, here it is softened and sweetened, draped elegantly over lashings of musks and sweet smooth and creamy sandalwood. This is OLD! because I can smell real animal musk. Yes there are some sweet flowers in the heart but they seem to be only ornaments to the narcissus, sandalwood and musk.

Normally I wear Narcisse Noir and just let myself float freely on a cloud of its loveliness. It’s weird trying to parse notes of something that I have had so much enjoyment out of as a whole and finished creation.

Narcisse Noir Ryan Somma Jonquilla Daffodil FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

The heart gives me a hint of indolic skank but nothing that would upset the vicar (sadly) and orange does make an appearance, it’s a juicy and pithy orange quite rounded and I had never noticed it before today’s wear. Narcisse Noir is much more multifaceted that I ever thought, light, shade and nuance that wearing as a fragrance just doesn’t show. Even a fruity rose rears its head, not a loud one but when I look for it after reading a note list it’s there.

Basically the fragrance then takes hours to dry down. Instead of making great changes it smooths and creams its way to a hum that just shimmers above my skin making me smell divinely better than I really do.

Narcisse Noir red-roses Hans PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Further reading: Now Smell This and Yesterday’s Perfume
Galaxy Perfumes has EdT $85/50ml (the only bottle I could find online not on eBay or Amazon)
Surrender To Chance has samples from $3/ml

Did you ever spend time with Narcisse Noir? Will you miss it when it’s gone?
Portia xx

 

Ellenisia by Steve de Mercado for Penhaligons 2005

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Post by Gabriella

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Hello perfume lovers!

It’s often said that happiness comes when reality beats expectations. This can happen as much in the perfume world as anywhere else, especially now when we’re faced with rave blog reviews or when there’s a new release by one of our favourite brands or perfumers.

Today I want to talk about a beautiful perfume that has fallen short for me, not because it is not good – quite the opposite – but because I have built up my expectations about it over several years, actually having it and wearing it doesn’t match those expectations. That scent is Ellensia by Penhaligon’s.

Ellenisia by Penhaligons 2005

Ellenisia by Steve de Mercado

Ellenisia Penhaligon`s FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica lists these following accords:
Top: Mandarin orange, violet leaf
Middle: Jasmine, gardenia, rose, tuberose
Base: Plum, vanilla

The weight of expectations for poor old Ellenisia was built up a long time ago. At the earliest stages of my perfume wanderings, when I was skulking round the perfume boards on Makeupalley, board members were raving about it as the most gorgeous white floral. As the perfume was unobtainable in Australia back then, it became even more coveted and desirable to me. My desire only grew when people said it was a better version of Chanel Gardenia.

Time went on and then Penhaligon’s made an appearance at our local department store but a bottle was way beyond my budget. I’d go in often and spritz some Ellenisia on a blotter to get my fix of the fume and delight in the sensual, heady but very playful gardenia and tuberose mix.

Ellenisia Penhaligon`s Toorop_Dame_in_wit WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

This happened for a while, until of course, other perfumed delights came my way and Ellenisia was temporarily forgotten.

Fast forward to last year. I had just moved to Melbourne and I am out of work. Again, a bottle of Penhaligon’s is too expensive and out of my reach. Again, I covet it more than anything.

A couple of months ago, I finally pull the trigger. After more than a decade, the object of my rapture is finally in my hot little hands and I can’t wait to wear it. I am carefully unwrapping the cellophane from the pink cardboard box and lifting the little glass cap that sits so prettily atop a pink ribbon, I press the atomiser and….nothing. For sure, Ellenisia was pretty, it was the same gorgeous mix of gardenia and tuberose, given depth by the mandarin and plum but not too sweet, thanks to the greenness of the violet leaf. It was nice, but it didn’t rock my world like it had in my head time and time again. Mr M says I smell pretty and I do, but I can’t help feeling something’s missing. I’ve ruined my own perfect scent, I have built it up too much in my mind, building it up and up and up that it can’t help but fall short. Hopefully, as I continue to wear it, my expectations will fade to the background and the beauty that is this gorgeous white floral will come to the fore, unencumbered by the prospects in my mind.

Ellenisia Penhaligon`s Statue PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

Further reading: EauMG and Mimi Froufrou
Libertine Parfumerie has $239/100ml
Luckyscent has $4/0.7ml

Have you ruined a perfectly gorgeous scent through the weight of your expectations? Conversely, what perfumes have you set the bar really low for that have subsequently rocked your world?

With much love till next time.

M x

Magnum Iris by Ramón Béjar 2014

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Post by Portia

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In December 2014 Jin, Kath and I were in NYC for Thanksgiving, it was so fabulous and fun. We even got to do some Black Friday shopping which was scary and exciting. Kath decided that she wanted to buy shoes on Black Friday from Macy’s, sheesh! Can we talk about D R A M A? That is NOT the way I want my shopping experience to go.

Crew OSSWALD 2014OSSWALD 2014

Josie OSSWALD 2014Josie @ OSSWALD 2014

Anyway, there was a perfume groupies meet up organised at OSSWALD NYC with a bunch of the New Yorkers and Birgit of Olfactoria’s Travels. There I was introduced to the beautiful eponymous line Ramón Béjar. The bottles are even more desirable in real life, heavy and cool to touch. They feel weighted in ceremony when you spritz, these mothers have gravitas in spades.

Magnum Iris by Ramón Béjar 2014

Magnum Iris Ramon Bejar FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Iris, bergamot
Heart: Violet, jasmine, ylang-ylang
Base: Haitian vetiver, sweet notes, musk

Magnum Iris opens cool and wet like the softest and most luxurious facets of iris have been blended with the cool sweet wetness of peony, and a hint of chill mountain air. It doesn’t take long for the iris to warm into rooty earthiness and I think the violet helps the fragrance to hint at leather. Through the heart I am reminded strongly of Prada Infusion d’Iris but not so austere. My nose and skin miss all except a hint of the flowers in the heart and mainly get a lovely byplay between a dry smoky vetiver and classy iris with a hint of yeastiness. Later I get soft, fluffy musks with still a whisper of iris, the blending is seamless and I feel like I’ve been wearing the fragrance that the rich of NYC would wear if they knew about it. So cool, urbane and under the radar luxe.

Magnum Iris urban-scene Unsplash PixabayPhoto Stolen Pixabay

OK, just chatted with Josie at OSSWALD NYC and she tells me that Magnum Iris is the second most popular in the line and that it’s her favourite. That’s high praise from a woman who deals with fragrance every day. I’m not sure Magnum Iris is a very good fit for me, maybe because it’s so elegant and refined, but I have enjoyed wearing it.

Magnum Iris four-women-in-gym-PDIPhoto Stolen PDI

Magnum Iris could easily be the perfect signature scent for work. You are fragrant and it’s really good, just flying under the “PERFUME” radar and becoming part of your own smell but infinitely better. I bet if the high powered gym at lunch crew got a whiff of Magnum Iris the change rooms would smell of it for about 5 years.

Further reading: EauMG
OSSWALD NYC has $295/75ml

Have you tried the line yet? HURRY!
Portia xx

 

CHANEL Two Tone Shoes: Making of Film

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Post by Portia

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Hey there APJ,

I love to watch craftsmen. The way they make the impossible for me seem so easy and commonplace. How they are so involved in the creation of their product and the rendering of their craft that there is a kind of graceful flow to every movement. Of course, at CHANEL they employ artisans of the highest calibre and in this 2.2min film it shows. Gorgeous McGorgeous!!

Screen Shot 2015-09-24 at 2.13.25 pmPhoto Stolen CHANEL

Enjoy,
Portia xx

Making of the CHANEL Two Tone Shoes

Todd Oldham GIVEAWAY WINNERS

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Post by Portia

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Super fun vintage draw, thanks Azar. it’s lovely to have you back after your break. we missed you.

Portia xxx

Todd Oldham GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Todd Oldham Todd Oldham FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Bergamot, mandarin orange, peach
Heart: Jasmine, cinnamon, rose, fruity notes
Base: Musk, sandalwood, patchouli, amber, benzoin

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

Today’s giveaway: There are two prizes.
One US resident winner will receive one extremely cute, 6.5 ml, boxed, vintage Todd Oldham EdP mini.
One NON US winner will receive one 2ml decant spray of Todd Oldham EdP and one 1ml decant of vintage Anne Klein II EdP.

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Thursday 1st October 2015 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winner will be chosen by random.org

WINNERS dryiconsPhoto Stolen dryicons

In the US:  ElizabethC.

Outside the US:  Pats

The winner will have till Sunday 4th October 2015 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.