Month: July 2012

Oud Ispahan by Francois Demachy for DIOR 2012

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Hiya Scent-ualists,

A few weeks ago I was trolling around Facebook Fragrance Friends, a site mainly dedicated to the chat about what you’re wearing and how it is, who else has it, all sorts of great stuff for the fragrance junkie. It’s also a place where people do splits. I’ve never done one before so it was a totally new experience for me. One of the girls bought a huge bottle of Oud Ispahan (way too much to use in this lifetime) and we were allowed order 10 ml for the very reasonable price of 10 quid including postage!! From the UK! So, of course I was all over that like mould on cheese. It arrived on Friday and I have been spritzing away like crazy.

Oud Ispahan Dior for women and menPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these notes:
Top: Labdanum
Heart: Patchouli
Base: Sandalwood, rose and agarwood (oud)

Photo Stolen indonesianagarwoodoud

How does it wear on me? I find Oud Ispahan to be soft, subtle and skin scent-ish; a barely there whisper of grandeur harking back to the Arabian perfumery through 21st century processes. It is quietly tenacious, lasting well over 8 hours on me, and almost linear to my nose unless I am concentrating continuously. There is a journey but not in a grand adventure way. The bright and warm opening whispers sibilantly like a  secret, in a very human almost bed breath way. I think this the softest and cleanest oud accord I’ve smelled yet; like it’s been washed and dressed for company and it rumbles through the whole fragrance life. Now smelling of breath, leather, flesh but all very indoors, captured, domesticized and polished. While the amber/vanilla/patchouli are playing around at the party, I can’t really separate them because of my lack of knowledge but they are all outshone by the incredible heart of rose that everything else here hangs off. It’s like the rose is holding court and all else are bit players, but keeping with the theatrical theme, this rose is Machiavellian. It slides in and around giving a spicy, peppery, sparkly, lemony, fruity rose it is one rose of a thousand faces and facets. My nose thinks it has her pinned and vamoose, gone! replaced by something akin but subtly different.

Due to the awesome staying power of Oud Ispahan I can’t tell when it finally takes its leave but my head tells me that real dry down is an amber/oud sheer layer of extra lovely translucence that makes me smell subtly more desirable. Well, subtly more desirable to TSO Jin. I’ll be smiling all day.

Photo Stolen Ispahan.com

1000Fragrances does his usual excellent job of reviewing and PerfumeShrine does a super pre-release geography, accord and history lesson. Both are well worth looking up for interesting data.

I hope you are lucky enough to get to try DIOR’s Oud Ispahan. I like it a lot; it’s classy, beautiful, long lasting, sexy and interestingly it has good sillage. I can smell it in a room that I’ve vacated and come back to 15 minutes later.
SurrenderToChance starts at $3/ml but 5ml is only $12 and that is a great size to really get to know it. Of my 10ml I gave 3ml to a mate and have about 3ml left.  This will definitely become a full bottle when I get to a counter.

Have you tried Oud Ispahan? Any of the Couturier Collection? How do you rate them?

Thanks for dropping by, and/or leaving a message. I am so happy and grateful that you do. Have a lovely day, till tomorrow,
Portia xx
PS The video below has nothing to do with Oud Ispahan, it’s just a lovely DIOR mini movie for Miss Dior Winter 2012

Clayton Ilolahia, Blogger, Writer, Fragrance Junkie. Interview

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 Hey All,

Today I have for you Clayton Ilolahia, a man with a very successful blog (whatmenshouldsmelllike.com), who writes for the The Perfume Magazine and has been giving talks about perfume around the traps. He is also an Australiasian, YAY! and general good guy.  I have cajoled Clayton into answering some questions for us. He has been crazy busy so took the time to do it while flying to Bangkok! So read on and find out about this fascinating man who knows What Men Should Smell Like….

Tell us about young Clayton please, where you came from, family, siblings, poignant or helped create who you are moments?
I was raised in New Zealand and was bought up on a farm. I have a large extended family, somewhat expected if you have a Maori/Polynesian background, but my immediate family is quite small with just my sister and I. My upbringing was pretty standard for rural New Zealand. One of my first scented memories is the jonquils and jasmine that grew wild on the farm.

 How did you become interested in fragrance?
I want to say I have always been interested in fragrance, but then haven’t we all? It’s true, I only became conscious of this interest in the past 10 years, but I think if we all look back, we have memories of scent that trigger emotion. For me, the picture became clearer after I left New Zealand and moved to Melbourne, Australia in 2004. I had retail management experience and was offered a job managing a small perfumery opened by the Polakis brothers of Harrolds, luxury designer mens stores in Sydney and Melbourne, who’d noticed niche perfumeries opening in France and Italy so they wanted to replicate the idea in Melbourne. At that stage I had no interest in working in the perfume industry. In my spare time I was always mixing fragrant oils and reading about perfume, which lead to blogging.

Who were and are your mentors and inspirations?
I have always had a soft spot for perfumer, Jean-Claude Ellena, I really admire his work. I also think Jean-Paul Guerlain is one of the most extraordinary perfumers of his age. I would love to interview him.
In terms of writing about fragrance, I love the sharp wit of Luca Turin and Chandler Burr is also one of the best fragrance writers, a wonderful storyteller and his statements are always backed up by fact.

Do you still wear mass-market fragrances, if yes which and why?
Absolutely! I love the mass market. Sometimes the most luxurious brand that promises creativity and quality can disappoint me. And a small budget, mass-market perfume, made by a perfumer working with a cost-considered palette of materials is able to express the most memorable idea. Some of my recent under $100 buys are Narciso Rodriguez Essence Eau de Musc, Chanel Bleu and Marc Jacobs Bang.

Who is your favourite independant perfumer and why?
Serge Lutens (or Christpher Sheldrake if you are talking about the ‘Nose’). It is a range that stands on its own. If anything, Lutens references himself instead of others.

Synthetic, natural or mixture, why?
All my favourite perfumes combine both. Naturals are so complex and filled with personality; I love the tension they add to a composition. Synthetics are much more singular in their message and they can alter or colour a perfume story in ways naturals cannot. Synthetics and naturals work beautifully hand in hand.

How has your whatmenshouldsmelllike.com developed?
Great. Originally it was just a sounding board for me to write about my perfume collection. I wanted to dedicate more of my time to learning about perfume. Blogging became my way of keeping myself on track, so I was regularly thinking about perfume. I am fortunate to travel regularly for work. When I can, I like to write about my experiences in other cities whether it is a shopping guide or some personal experiences.

What qualifications do you have to write about perfume?
Lol- absolutely none. I think that is the clear distinction between bloggers and journalists- we are not professionals and I am very aware not to cross that line. As much as possible I ensure what I write is accurate as there is a lot of misinformation online. I try to read and research as much as possible before I commit to a post. In terms of working with raw materials I had my breakthrough moment when I did a course with Perfumers World, a training organisation in Bangkok, Thailand. Their programs are great for perfume enthusiasts that want an introduction to basic professional knowledge. In September I am doing a short course in Grasse.

Tell us about how you came to be working for The Perfume Magazine, and a bit about them for our readers who may not have come across it yet?
The Perfume Magazine was a serendipitous occurrence. Their Editor in Chief contacted me after she stumbled across my blog and asked if I would be interested in contributing. I submitted something for their summer edition and they asked me to join them permanently as their mens contributor. They are a lovely team to work with.

 What are the 5 most important things you have learned so far that could help budding perfumistas/bloggers?
1: Create an environment others want to be part of. Write about the things you love, forget the things you dislike and have no control over.
2: If you are expecting to be paid for your blog, don’t quit your day job.
3: Spend some time with a fragrance before writing about it. Get to know the fragrance intimately- the quality of your writing will be much better. Readers want to know your opinion and not just information that can be found on a press release. Make each post personal.
4: I never throw out a perfume brochure, I tear out magazine articles and I pdf any online perfume articles that interest me. They are a valuable resource for information, which often disappear over time.
5: Don’t be shy and approach others to get stories. Most people I have spoken with are really encouraging of bloggers, at the worst; you will only get a ‘no’.

WOW!! I hope you found that as interesting as I did. Thank you Clayton for taking the time out of your busy schedule to let us get inside your head, just a little bit.

Portia xx

Etro: SUNDAY QUICKSNIFF REVIEWS #12

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Heya APJ Family,

Click here for more graphics and gifs!

This week I’m doing something slightly different again. I recently received from SurrenderToChance a set of 3 Etro fragrances and I’ve been wanting to get them on the blog and thought that I can try all 3 in Quicksniffs and then do a full review on my favourite at a later date. So that’s what I’ma gonna do for you and give you the usual 3 sentences and a star rating. Follow the jump to find our Rating System Page (<<jump).

ETRO is a crazy fabulous Italian fashion house, check their site here <<JUMP

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

MESSE DE MINUT 1994. COR!!! Citrus explosion, almost like a spicy citrus souffle, sort of cake-ish but with a crackle of pettigrain that keeps the balance from getting too foody, though it is delicious enough to eat my arm. I’m not really a citrus fan, in my mind though my collection calls me a liar, but I really love this and think the Etro crew have done a warm citrus perfect for a sunny autumn, winter or spring day, like today was in Sydney, this felt perfect as it dried down to woods, fresh hewn. S=**** L=**** D=****

SHAAL NUR 1997. After the citrus has burned off I get herbal, spicy and wood. It is great but the flowers don’t appear on my skin in a starring role and Shaal Nur goes straight to an amber, patchouli and woodsy vetiver skin scent that plays so softly it’s almost miss-able that it’s more than me, but I lose the ability to smell it after 5 hours. This definitely has date night potential.  S=*** L=*** D=***

LEMON SORBET 1989. This, as you would expect, is also a burst of citrus, a bitter sweet cloud of cool herbal lemon gelato.  It is a good deal more linear and less cluttered than the other 2 Etros we are looking at today, almost linear but still with an interesting journey. Part of me loves the simplicity here, and it smells really good on me too, but I think it would be a better wear in the warmer months, perfect for you Northern Hemisphere people right now. S=**** L=*** D=***

I bought a pick 3 Etro Gateway Sampler from SurrenderToChance which starts at $7.99

I hope you’re all having a glorious weekend.
Thank you for being part of our APJ family.,
Portia xx

First EdP by Van Cleef & Arpels 1976, Winner Announced

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Hey Hey Stink Monkeys,

I am a fan of big old fashioned slam your head against the wall floral spectaculars. I know you’re surprised but I felt it was time to come clean with you all and fess up. Here is another of my favourites, a 36 year old banged up whore of a perfume. Once she was a screaming symphony of flowers and funk, filled with civet and oakmoss which unfortunately are both banned nowadays. She has been through many incarnations, getting sleeker and more refined each time, losing that young, nasty, dirty girl as she has grown up. Much like any old sex worker that married well and glossed over a seamier past with elocution lessons, a change of postcode and a better stylist. It’s a pity because I love the memory of what she was but considering how much they can’t put into fragrance these days she is better than she could be. Maybe it’s testament to Jean-Claude Ellena’s genius that it has remained so vibrant and wearable and reminiscent of itself.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

The Fragrantica note list is extraordinary:
Top: Bergamot, mandarin, black currant bud, aldehydes, peach, raspberry
Heart: Hyacinth, Turkish rose, narcissus, jasmine, lily of the valley, ylang-ylang, carnation, orchid, tuberose, orris
Base: Amber, tonka bean, oakmoss, sandalwood, vetiver, musk, honey, civet.

First opens with the sparkly fresh fruit and citrus bang that you hope for in a heady aldehydic floral that is an incredibly accurate representation of the sparkle and flash of Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery. I can’t really tell the notes apart in First, I think the wild sensual white flower power is anchored by the yang-ylang, carnation and orris and the orchid amps it all up, still being helped along by the glittering aldehydes. The base has been there all along but you don’t notice until well into the first hour because until then it plays only a filler role, giving the whole its magnificent shape. After about an hour these deeper, and interestingly, sweeter notes and accords waft through in front of the earlier players en mass, leaving us long secret glimpses of what went before as we tumble into dry down hours later. Sometimes I get 6-7 hours and sometimes more, this cool weather currently helps to slow the progression down and its much slower to reach the real base before it’s gone.

Go and check the BoisDeJasmine review and I would have put another but couldn’t find one on the first 4 pages of google that was working.
FragranceNet has a great selection at very reasonable prices.

THURSDAY GIVEAWAY WINNER

Our Thursday Giveaway this week is a fantastic Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum Coffret 50ml EdP (that has had 1 spritz taken by APJ guest blogger EmmaKate who donated it) and a 6.7 oz of Body Lotion valued at RRP $75.

How did you win this week? Only Australian addresses could enter. All you had to do is tell me somewhere that you would like to wear this gorgeous Paloma Picasso fragrance. Easy Peasy!! And the winner is……

SAFFYISHERE

Photo Stolen bitrebels

Please get in touch with your address details by Wednesday August 1 2012 or I’ll give your prize to someone else or maybe keep it for myself, I’m running low. Communication via DM on Twitter (@OzPerfumeJunkie) or FB (Portia Turbo-Gear).

I am leaving you today with a really lovely Van Cleef & Arpels mini movie for Faerie; a gorgeous, forgotten flop that we’ll talk about soon.
Love to you all,
Portia xx

Guilty by Gucci 2010

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 15 Comments

Hey Y’all,

Please go check the Perfume Posse because I’m guest posting today about Olympic Orchids and don’t forget to enter our Paloma Picasso Thursday Giveaway….

I was lucky enough to be given a bottle of Gucci Guilty recently by a friend who’d had it purchased for her but did not like it for herself, being a veteran Ma Griffe by Carven woman. I have coveted the bottle since I first laid eyes on it, thinking it an excellent branding exercise and lovely counter topper. I had high hopes for the juice because Gucci have done some great stuff in the past and I was hoping for a love. Come with me and we’ll discover Guilty together.

https://i0.wp.com/www.punmiris.com/images/secundar/o.11813.jpg Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these notes mandarin, pink pepper, peach, lilac, geranium, amber and patchouli.

Guilty opens warm pink pepper and peach on my skin, it’s a modern fruit-chouli and that should have me hating on it immediately but there seems to be some interesting depths here. A softly spicy, whisper of a fragrance that still manages some sillage and staying power, around 5-7 hours depending on what I’m doing. As the amber warms into the fragrance I also get a beautiful waft of crisp, fresh cut flowers so I am guessing the geranium is keeping the lilacs a bit extra green. The patchouli has been stripped naked and scrubbed clean till I can hardly notice it but still the dry down maintains surprising amber/vanilla warmth and is by far my favourite part of the fragrances life.

Honestly, this seems a little generic for the design house GUCCI for which the motto, Quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten, is associated. This is very nice, pretty, wearable and inoffensive so where they got the steamy sex and name Guilty from we are left guessing. I will use this as my re-spritz in my bag and it will be drained in no time but will probably not purchase. Sorry GUCCI but you’ve let me down a little bit.

NowSmellThis and LashGirl were the only 2 reviews I could find on the first 4 pages of google for Gucci Guilty that weren’t Pour Homme Intense.

Thanks for coming and sharing my fragrant wanderings, hopefully see you tomorrow,

Portia XOX

Gucci Guilty

Paloma Picasso Mon Parfum 1984

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 24 Comments

Hiya Fumies,

Today we are going to look at something I’ve had rattling around my fragrance cupboard on and off for years. I think it has been reformulated three or four times because every time I repurchase it smells slightly different and over time the packaging has changed too. Still with the same central lush 80’s big bang but slightly thinner. Considering though how many fragrances have come and gone since 1984 it is a wonder we can still readily buy Paloma Picasso.

Photo stolen herzmaschine

It is still a heady swirl of high octane powerhouse perfume, for me a cross between Chanel No. 5 and Aromatics Elixer. With a start point of spicy, sharp and sweet amped up by the aldehydes. As we move through the life of the fragrance the base seems to be pumping its dark and sexual tune nearly from the start with almost cameo like appearances from the rest of the notes that pop up and then submerge back into the background, only to do so again when you least expect it. Better than excellent sillage, in fact you will be your own scent cloud, and lasts, lasts and lasts till it smells like a dirty ho is in the next room undressing, then gone.

Photo Stolen perret-optic

Definitely not a close work environment scent unless you are the boss or your crew has a wear as much perfume as you like agreement. If you are wearing it to dinner give it at least 2 hours to breathe before you sit to eat and it will probably skunk the bus in the mornings too. This is a dressed up high heels and gown of a scent but could equally be worn outdoors where there are no perfume restraints. I like to wear it to bed, selfishly and for my own pleasure, while market shopping or cleaning the house with some pop music playing.

Fragrantica gives these notes & accords;
Top: Coriander, aldehydes, angelica and carnation
Heart: Ylang ylang, jasmine and hyacinth
Base: Oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood, vetiver, tobacco, castoreum, civet and musk

Please check BoisDeJasmine and PerfumeShrine for the full story. They also have much more detailed note lists, maybe Fragrantica has the modern incarnations list?

FragranceX has the best selection I could find at reasonable prices, below Gift Coffret only around $60

THURSDAY GIVEAWAY

Our Thursday Giveaway this week is a gift from APJ guest blogger EmmaKate. She was lucky enough to win our prize at an event but the fragrance is way too strong for her to wear comfortably in public. Her loss is your gain because we are giving away this fantastic 50ml EdP (that has had 1 spritz taken by EmmaKate) and a 6.7 oz of Body Lotion. Below you’ll see a similar coffret valued at RRP $75, only the exterior is slightly different on ours.

Photo Stolen 99Perfume

How do you win? For this week only Australian addresses can enter. Sorry world but I can’t afford to send this one OS, it’s expensive! All you have to do is tell me somewhere that you would like to wear this gorgeous Paloma Picasso fragrance. Easy Peasy!!

Entries close by 9pm Saturday July 28 2012 Australian EST and winners will be announced in the Saturday night post. If you are our lucky winner you must get in touch with your address details by Wednesday August 1 2012 or I’ll give your prize to someone else or maybe keep it for myself, I’m running low. Communication via DM on Twitter (@OzPerfumeJunkie) or FB (Portia Turbo-Gear).

Alright gang, Thank You for dropping in and Aussies, GO TO IT!!
Portia xx

Frederic Malle LIVE Video Sniffs

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 26 Comments

Hello all you Perfumistas,

YAY!! YAY!! YAY!!

You’ve all been hanging out for one of our videos and we are slowly making a stockpile of them to bring out when the urge comes upon us. We are so lucky to have my gorgeous Scent Mother, Emma (who guest blogs here on APJ as EmmaKate) with me for this one. I hope you enjoy our little bit of perfume madness as much as we enjoyed bringing it to you.

Photo Stolen meccacosmetica

Today we look at 3 of the Frederic Malle series; Vetiver, Carnal Flower and Le Parfum De Therese. Emma talks us through them, their major accords, some history and we sniff one LIVE.

Photo Stolen meccacosmetica

As always I’d like to thank my BFF Kath for the video and editing and TSO Jin for making it embed ready.

Enjoy, Enjoy, ENJOY!!!
Portia xxx

SOIVOHLE by Liz Zorn: Reviews

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 7 Comments

Hey Fragrantly Flawless Fumies,

Yesterday we talked to the amazing Liz Zorn of SOIVOHLE, (pronounced See-Voh) previously we did a story on SOIVOHLE and last week looked at Wild Ginger Chai. Today we are going to look at some more of the fragrances that come from this brand. I have to tell you in advance, I love this crew. I think the juice in every bottle feels like the culmination of a labour of love, as lovingly produced as a baby. They run the gamut of genres; classy, chic or confronting at different times and some of the names are enough to transport you by themselves.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

You’ll see some writing in italics, that is edited from the SOIVOHLE website.

ABSOLUTES (30-50% Concentrate)

UNDERWORLD – natural
An unusual pairing of vetivers from around the world, rich spice notes of cinnamon, ginger lily and clove, a touch of jasmine, roasted coffee, cocoa, rose leather and balsams, set into a  light vanilla oud tincture, sensual and a bit haunting

Photo Stolen historywillabsolvemike

OHHH The clove and cinnamon are divine here and I am already getting some vanilla right at the start, this is a bit like the first fizz of spices in the pan when you make a curry. Here we are at half an hour with no diminution in the opening notes, this is going to be a heartbreaker. In comes the jasmine curling lazily through the cloves with (I think) the vetivers, slightly peppery and earthy. At over an hour there is the clove still and the leather & balsams are warming into their places and the coffee is like the end of your cuppa, the cup is cold but you put your nose in and smell. This is such a multi faceted perfume that I think I’ll need to spend lots of time getting to know its moods. 5 hours on and I am getting spicy vanilla with a whisper of the dank oud below giving breadth. 9 hours and Underworld has become a skin scent, not discernibly anything except a better smelling me. Magic!

DEMI ABSOLUTES (18-22% Concentrate)

BOTTLENECK BLUES – mixed media
Inspired by the juke joint, jazz dive, blues hideaway and any place where the music is hypnotic and the atmosphere  so thick you could cut it with a knife. Not for the faint of heart Bottleneck Blues opens with a heavy dose of animalic musk,  rain dampened hay , earth  and bergamot  that evolves into a stunning array of ripe sensual summer flowers,Lilacs, Magnolia  and Roses, with a base of chypre moss, musk, absolute vanilla , labdanum and woods.

Photo Stolen stltoday

Bottleneck Blues first rush is like walking through the baking kitchen, vanilla, zest & cinnamon, and out across the yard into the hay barn. It’s not rushed, you’ve taken your time in each section. You find a sexually ready, fit and healthy man wearing really pricey fragrance, he’s had a few drinks and you can taste them when you’re kissing, then after your fling you go back across the yard into the kitchen and now they’re making caramel, you stay and watch the process for hours from a new chair and then you go.
I know my smelling doesn’t exactly match notes, I went back and checked the test bottle twice throughout my 4-5 hour journey before I slept.

JHANGO BAY – mixed media
Inspired by the early 20th Century Jazz guitarist Django Reinhardt. Jhango Bay  is a fresh woody chypre with notes of Bay, Bergamot, Basil, Lemon,  A heart of Geranium, Ginger Lily,  Geranium Rose, Incense Rose  and a touch of Jasmine with Oakmoss, Cedar, Sandalwood and  a  mixed media  musk containing Ambrette Seed and Muscone  rounding out the base. This formulation was created with 99% natural materials.

Photo stolen keepswinging

A fresh burst of citrus, bay leaves and spice like a call to arms opens Jhango Bay. It maintains it sharpness with the snap of geranium and a spicy, cool rose accord. Then the strangest thing happens, I can only liken it to the first opening scent from a bottle of tomato sauce, it’s sweet and sharp but so good, unexpected and wholesome smelling. This is a winner. I am buying me some of this excellent juice.

I hope you’ve enjoyed our look at SOIVOHLE fragrances; for me it’s been a real treat. Don’t forget to cross over and have a look at the new SOIVOHLE range.

Love, Love, love to you and yours,

Portia xx

SOIVOHLE by Liz Zorn Interview

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 9 Comments

Hiya Everyone,

Photo Stolen fragrantica

Today I am bringing you artist, photographer, perfumer and genuinely lovely person with biographies in both Who’s Who In America and Who’s Who of American Women; Liz Zorn. Liz Zorn, founder of and perfumer for SOIVOHLE, is an inspiration on many levels. I am always impressed people who can excel in more than one field, it also reminds me that it can be done. One of the things I am loving about writing perfume is that I have been able to interview some astonishing people who are also perfumers. We have previously done a story on SOIVOHLE << hit the jump and find a history and some reviews.

Straight up; I am completely addicted to the SOIVOHLE (pronounced See-Voh) range. It is an acronym Sending Out Inspired Vibrations Of Healthy Loving Energy and their mantra is “Passing on the happiness and good cheer one bottle at a time.” This resonates so strongly with my own beliefs and processes that I was predestined to love the range.

Liz is unafraid to push boundaries and buttons. Some of her fragrances have unsettling notes or bring on inspired memories. Never really challenging but sometimes confronting they are gateways to loveliness, art in a bottle.

1.Can you tell us about young Liz Zorn and some “Who I Am” making moments?
I can’t say that I have had any profound moments, at least none that come to mind. I think I have always been on this path.  I was born in a small southern US town, moved to a big city at the age of ten. Lived in the suburbs and spent my summers at the pool. Very typical American.
2.What were you doing before you became a perfumer?
I was a painter. I am still a painter, just not so active these days.
3.How did you become interested in perfume and becoming a perfumer?
My interest in perfumery goes back to my teens. At the time it was not an option to be a perfumer. As the years went on I took more interest in perfumery and the Olfactory Arts, until I decided one day to put the painting aside to see if I had a true feel for perfumery. It is an ongoing process.
4.How did you get your education as a perfumer?
I am self taught except for a summer when I was 12 years old. A couple of retired teachers opened a New Age shop near my parents home. I would go there everyday and hang out with them. They taught me how to make incense from natural herbs, oils and resins. They also taught me how to make altar oils and the basic blending of essential oils. From there I started collecting oils, and perfumery books.
5.You use both naturals and synthetics, what is your philosophyand what are the selling points of each?
They are all tools, I make no distinction between them. Sometimes I like to work with an all natural palette, sometimes not. I have no interest in the politics or philosophy (if there is such a thing) of perfume. My focus is on the art and how best to bring my vision to life.
6.Soivohle is undergoing some changes currently, what news?
Yes, I am in a sense cleaning house.  Fine tuning my aim.  Like anyone else I get distracted at times. I am upgrading our packaging and cleaning up the look. I do not like clutter, so I try to nip it in the bud.
7.Can you tell us some of the exciting stuff you have in development?
I am working on two new scents, the Tears of Ra and Anubis. Exploring through scent the power of myth.



I wanted to leave you with some of Liz Zorn’s art. I find it moves me in much the same way her fragrances do.

Photo Stolen lizzorn

Photo Stolen Tumbler

Photo Stolen cafleurebon

Tomorrow we look at a few of the luscious fragrances on offer at SOIVOHLE. Do come and sample with us. In case you are wondering, they are currently updating their site with a Grand Re-Opening tomorrow July 24. It promises to be spectacular with the launch of 2 brand new fragrances.

I hope this has found you happy and well. If not, it gets better, promise.

Portia xx

SUNDAY QUICKSNIFFS #11

/ australianperfumejunkiescom / 11 Comments

Hello Perfume Hounds,

Click here for more graphics and gifs!

This week I’m doing something slightly different. The Lucky Scent July Sample Pack arrived during the week and I was wondering when I’d get to it. So of the 10 samples I thought I’d try a random selection for you and give you the usual 3 sentences and a star rating. You can find our Rating System Page <<jump.

Aqua di Casta  Eau de Parfum by Testa Maura
Photo Stolen LuckyScent

AQUA DI CASTA by TESTA MAURA 2008. This crew offers 100% natural and organic products. Spicy, green and woody opening like opening a tea or spice chest. It stays sparkly fresh and lovely, pretty linear for the first hour or so. The wood feels newly hewn and left raw. It continues bright, bitey and delicious till it’s gone in a surprisingly long 6+ hours. S=**** L=**** D=***

MIA MURZA by TESTA MAURA 2008. Green, herbal and deep, this starts like a dense jungle and as you walk you break bracken and pass mossy trees with arboreal night flowers. An earthy, wet, humus rich fragrance that only warms up slightly as it continues to almost nothing. It is kind of there and not there after 5 hours. S=**** L=*** D=***

Vanille Cuir  Eau de Parfum by M. Micallef
Photo Stolen LuckyScent

VANILLA CUIR by M. MICALLEF 2012. The opening sees a murky frission between the citrus, lavender and mint, something in this is the same as they use in modern Dana Tabu and it really fights with my nostrils. As a dab it then goes very skin scent but in a spray decant half an hour in and the leather really comes to the fore, a rough, unfinished leather straight from the tanners at first and then a mellow suede till the dry down about 4-5 hours later but it maintains that funny scent that torments me for most of its lifespan. I’m sorry to say, I don’t like it particularly. S=** L=*** D=**

VANILLA MARINA by M. MICALLEF . OHHHHH This opens so interestingly; the lemon is a warm hit of citrus (Unusual!!), I couldn’t place because the salty marine note plays with it like a Margherita, white flowers too. Are they orange blossom? So sexy and I can feel the vanilla sliding through it all, almost ambery but sweeter like …. I don’t know what!! WOW!! I am finding a decant of this, even though it’s not completely new, it is a fresh look at a common theme. Far better and lasted till morning, just quietly.  S=***** L=*** D=****

To receive the LuckyScent sample pack simply join their mailing list and they will send you an invitation to purchase their latest loves every month, priced very reasonably with P&H at attractive rates also. The only crap thing is there are only .7ml vials in the pack so if you want to spray them you have to self decant. I have written asking for a 2ml spray set but you all need to do it, go on.

I hope you’ve had a super weekend. It’s been very nice round here.
Love, Love, Love and good stuff to you and yours,
Portia xx