Hello APJ, Welcome to our small scale collaboration project. Old Herbaceous (OH) of Serenity Now Scents and Sensibilities and I will be doing a monthly post on different perfume notes. We are not perfumers but aficionados of fragrance. So lots of our information will come with links for further reading or text references. We are learning as you are learning, or refreshing.

Frankincense: Notes on Notes

With both of us being part of the Jesus story followers I asked if we could do the December note as Frankincense. Old Herbaceous was most amenable and here we are.

What is Frankincense?

Edited from Britannica: Frankincense, also called olibanum, is an aromatic gum resin containing a volatile oil that is used in incense and perfumes.

Frankincense is obtained from trees of the genus Boswellia (family Burseraceae), particularly from the species B. frereana, B. sacra, B. papyrifera, and B. serrata, which are found in Somalia, the Hadhramaut region of Yemen, Oman, and parts of India and Pakistan. Incisions are made in the trunks of the trees, and the frankincense exudes as a milklike juice that hardens on exposure to air. The resin is generally collected from farmed trees in East Africa and parts of the Arabian Peninsula, though wild trees are sometimes sourced.

How does Frankincense smell? 

I’ve never thought of Frankincense as a particularly strong note, more as a part of the story. There are usually many other accords surrounding it. My main perception is smoky, resinous, smooth and woody.

From New Directions: Its potent aroma can be described as woody, earthy, and spicy with a fruity nuance. Used in aromatherapy, its sedative and comforting fragrance is believed to strengthen and invigorate the respiratory system.

How is Frankincense used in perfumery? 

Having grown up in the Roman Catholic religion incense has been a huge part of my life since I can remember. It still calls to me as an emotional cleanser and a place to find tranquility. Many of my fragrances have it as lead or bit player and I’ve even had the crystals from the Middle East to put on charcoals. I find Frankincense elevates a fragrance spiritually and gives it a taste of heaven.

From New Directions: Frankincense essential oil is obtained from the dried and distilled resin of the Frankincense tree, which is native to specific regions of Africa and the Middle East.

Edited from Britannica: Frankincense was valued in ancient times in worship and as a medicine and is still an important incense resin, particularly in Roman Catholic and Eastern Orthodox churches. The resin is also used in aromatherapy and skin care products and is valued in folk and Eastern medicine.

In which perfumes will you find Frankincense?

Les Liquides Imaginaires Sancti

For some reason the Les Liquides Imaginaires brand seems to work for me. From the presentation to the fragrances. Are they always groundbreaking? No. Are some of them lazy base notes and a few short lived bells and whistles up top? Maybe. Do they smell good? Yeah, mostly they smell bloody excellent (for me anyway).
Sancti is a smoky frankincense with a few extras that lift it and give the scent atmosphere. Close my eyes and I’m a kid in benediction with gouts of smoke floating around me.

Keiko Mecheri Oliban

Oliban presents a completely different idea of frankincense. A sweeter, tobacco and tonka version.  Yes we have more and ys we have the cool unlit incense sticks but here we are feeling much more Asian influenced. I know it’s not listed but through the heart and dry down I swear I can smell tomato leaves plain as day. Oliban is much less every day wearable for me, not quite sure why given how much I love both incense and resinous ambers. Beautiful but stark.

Please go check out Serenity Now Scents and Sensibilities and see what OH has to add to the Notes on Notes about Frankincense.

What are your favourite fragrances with Frankincense listed in the notes?
Portia xx