Scent Diary: 8.4 – 14.4.2019




Hey there APJ Crew,

Wonderful week of fragrance. Everything else was pretty low key. Didn’t get to pool or gym this week and ate less than perfectly. Saw some buddies, hung with Jin and did a bunch of work so my life felt happily rounded without being hectic.

On A Bottled Rose this week I did Portia’s Spring List for the Northern Hemisphere. Go check it out.

WOO HOO! My mate Arielle is doing another fragrance!
Washington, D.C. (April 2019) – Arielle Shoshana is launching a Kickstarter campaign, “The Scent of Sunday,” to create its second fragrance, Arielle Shoshana Sunday. This Kickstarter will crowdfund the development and production of a perfume that smells how Sunday feels: a soft, cozy fragrance that captures the quiet bliss of an extra snooze cycle nestled in warm sheets.
“The Scent of Sunday” Kickstarter campaign will run from April 11, 2019 – May 11, 2019. Arielle Shoshana Sunday is expected to launch in October 2019.

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Scent Diary: 24.9 – 30.9.2018




Hey there APJ Crew,

It’s official. I am now HAWAII. Yes, I’ve reached the 50th state of birthdays. What a week. Saw so many people, did wonderful things, wore ALL the perfumes and had Aunty Tracey down to stay. This week has been one of the very good ones. Almost every day looking around at the people in my life it is the happiest of surprises how wonderful they all are. Every one of them with some divine spark. It is the people around us that bless us.

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Saturday Question: What is Your Fave Date Night Fragrance?




Hello Fellow Fumies,

At APJ we have a Saturday Question. Everyone gets to chime in with an answer, chat with other responders and it’s a fun event each week. Taking sides never means taking offence and everyone keeps it respectful and light, even though we can sometimes trawl the depths.

The idea is you’ll see it on the weekend or chime in through the week. Hopefully you will come back regularly and see if anyone has responded to your comment and you can reply to them. The aim is to generate real conversation and connection even though we are scattered around the globe.

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5 Neglected Warm Day + Cool Night Fragrances


Post by Portia


Hey there APJ,

So it’s a Mid Season again. YAY! These are my favourite bits of the year. Autumn and Spring. Why? Well, though I do love the warmth and freezing cold I find life much easier between 20C and 30C as top range heats. Dressing for the day is easier and you only need a comfy old jumper or hoodie as standby for cooler evenings. I also seem to function better physically and mentally in the Mid Seasons and I often feel more inspired to create positive change in my life.

It’s great for fragrance too because almost everything goes, here are some things that I love for these glorious days. I’ve chosen some fragrances that seemed to get a lot of attention when they were released but then have been basically ignored ever since. Yes, I talk about them but I rarely see them mentioned elsewhere so here’s a friendly reminder of some of my Mid Season loves.

5 Neglected Warm Day + Cool Night Fragrances


Mitzah by DIOR

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Coriander, rose, spices, cinnamon, labdanum, vanilla, honey, patchouli, incense

Mitzah opens all hot smoky spices and incense, with unmentioned leather and tobacco notes. Not an intense journey through the perfume with mountainous peaks and troughs, while there are definite start middle and end notes it’s more of a progression. The kick at the start warms slowly and languidly through mildly sweet towards a honeyed amber dry down.



The Aoud by Mancera

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Geranium, sandalwood, saffron, incense, rose, agarwood (oud), leather, ambergris

Oudh, geranium and sandalwood are triumphant kings through the story of this fragrance for me, their characters working in tandem and against each other to keep The Aoud interesting and unusual. Though rose is a featured note it doesn’t play heavily here, more a light accompaniment with the leather, saffron and incense. Blooms in the heat and is cuddly at night.

Cuir Pleine Fleur James Heeley FragranticaFragrantica

Cuir Pleine Fleur by James Healey

Parfumo gives these featured accords:
Top: Italian bergamot, Violet leaf, Cinnamon
Heart: Mimosa, Hawthorn, Suede, Rose, Honey
Base: Vetiver, Castoreum, Birch, Atlas cedar

Cuir Pleine Fleur is one of the easiest leathers I’ve ever smelled, friendly, well worn kid gloves and while being fragrant it is never overpowering or uncomfortable. A green leather, if you can believe it. I am loving it this season because it has a cool edge for warm days and the soft and,alias make it cozy in the cool.

Indian Wood 11.1 Parfumerie Generale FragranticaFragrantica

Indian Wood by Parfumerie Generale

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Sandalwood, vetiver, moss, spicy mint, nutmeg, cardamom, coconut milk, lemon zest

Chai! Sweet, milky, spicy and warming but with a green facet that gives it a papery rasp and picks Indian Wood up. This sweetness comes from the sweetness of milky woods, piquant spices and the warm memories of cooking. Even though this is a gourmand it’s green dryness keeps it from overwhelming in the heat.

Divine EdP Divine FragranticaFragrantica

Divine EdP by Divine Parfums

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Tuberose, peach, coriander
Heart: Orange blosson, rose, spices, patchouli, gardenia, jasmine
Base: Sandalwood, vanilla, musk, oakmoss

Big White Flowers and peachy/coriander skank bomb. The tuberose is excellent and lushly indolic, I am always surprised there is no ylang here because I am reminded of its sensual lushness, maybe it’s the orange blossom/tuberose melange.

LuckyScent or First In Fragrance have most of these babies

What do you wear Mid Season or what do you love that isn’t talked about much anymore?
Portia xx


What Fragrances Did You Wear Last Week?


Post by Portia


Heya Fumie Family,

It’s been a riotous week here in Sydney. So much happening and I was so involved I forgot to take photos of everything so here’s a smattering of what my week looked and smelled like.

What Fragrances Did You Wear Last Week?

portias-week-24-to-30-9-16-1 portias-week-24-to-30-9-16-2

KFC Brunch with buddies and BFF Kath’s family. It was short and sweet because I had to work that night, fun though.


Hosted the most sensational Hen’s Night that night. The girls were hilarious and we had a wonderful time.


Pedi Sunday. You can tell my Hobbit feet a mile off.


Yum Yum Cha Cha Cha with the crew. These are the heart of my friends circle and I love them.


Sunday night the JACKPOT went off at Austral Bowling Club. $1000 split 4 ways. Wonderful.

portias-week-24-to-30-9-16-7 portias-week-24-to-30-9-16-8

Tuesday it was head shave day and now you can see why I get it done so regularly. What a spunky barber. So sweet and he does a good job too.


Down at the local pool I’m up to 700m. Weather is perfect for getting my swim on. At 9am I have the pool pretty much to myself.


Morn to Dusk by Eau d’Italie: A vanilla-centric fragrance that is perfect for me. It’s warm, sweet and I’m surprised it doesn’t have more notes because it tells a beautiful story.

Divine EdP: Old fashioned BWF glamour done for the 21st century. I know it’s older than that but never feels dated or retro.

Mohur by Neela Vermeire Creations: All the roses set as a centrepiece with an enormous backing lineup that makes Mohur smell only of itself and slightly different every wear.

The Aoud by Mancera: Simple synth oudh with a minty kick in the heart and a longevity that beggars belief. Don’t get it on your clothes because they still smell after washing. I love this baby though and wear it quite a bit.

Tokyo Bloom by The Different Company: Lovely soft green cologne. Wears for me like an EdT but loads of people have problems with its longevity. Like walking on grass after the rain, so fresh and alive.

Antaeus by CHANEL: Just scored this vintage tester and it smells exactly like the bottles we had of it in the 1980s/90s. Jin stole my other bottle so I had to replace and it was well worth it. YUM!

Cabochard parfum by Gres: Not sure how old this baby is. I thought it was a vintage buy but it smells absolutely perfect, clear as a bell with that heavenly chypre dry down. Calm , cuddly and ever so elegant.

Le Male by Jean Paul Gaultier: The original and best. One of my partners in the 1990s and I wore this exclusively for nearly a year. Good times, great memories. I just opened this new bottle so it’s getting quite a bit of wear.

No 19 EdC by CHANEL: One of my great green loves. The old EdC is surprisingly tenacious and spectacularly furry in dry down. MMMM

Boy by CHANEL: I had about 20ml left after I split this and it’s down to 5ml or less. I love it. Easiest wearing thing in my wardrobe right now. It’s very lavender-centric on me with a soft focus dry down of sweet nothings. I really like it.

So! How was your week? What did you do and what fragrances did you wear?
Portia xx

The Aoud by Pierre Mancera for Mancera 2011

Hiya All,

I have the best friends in the world. we had a BarBQ get together yesterday with a few of them and I was given a bottle of The Aoud by my mate Alice who has just returned from the UK recently. She was down shopping in Selfridges fragrance floor and the Mancera SA was so good at her job, and Alice so overwhelmed by the incredible amount of choice, that in next to no time Alice was buying herself and me a bottle each of different frags in the line. I’m not sure what Alice got for herself but The Aoud by Mancera is a winner. Don’t go to the Mancera website, it has no information, is totally annoying to navigate and doesn’t even tell you about their fragrances other than 3 of them. GRRRR! So bloody unhelpful and this lack of information only hinders us blogging perfume enthusiasts that like to go see what is what. Even more terrible for shoppers I think.

Fragrantica has this to say:
Perfumer Pierre Mancera opened his first Mancera luxurious perfume boutique at Place Vendo in Paris. Mancera perfumes are made from precious and luxurious ingredients, rare and refined materials, inspired by Art Deco design.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

The fragrance features accords of: Geranium, sandalwood, saffron, incense, rose, agarwood (oud), leather and ambergris.

On opening the beautifully presented package with its shiny gold, very Arabian feeling, embossed cardboard box there is a gold drawstring pouch with the Mancera M in black repeated. It is a luxurious first glimpse and I like the feeling. The 60ml bottle is hefty and simple. Fits beautifully in my hand and the screw cap is a nice touch meaning the bottle is hand or gym bag ready without the worry of cap loss and self spraying of atomiser. V Important.

Photo Stolen lindsaybrothers

I love the opening medicinal notes, they are refined and luxurious. The oudh is noticeable right at the start as a warm, earthy, horse apple, green and grassy waft that lasts through the fragrance but it’s not toxic or heavy like many of the Arabian style of oudh. It is airy and fresh. The geranium adding a bright counterpoint and the sandalwood giving its buttery smoothness almost immediately. Oudh, geranium and sandalwood are triumphant kings through the story of this fragrance for me, their characters working in tandem and against each other to keep The Aoud interesting and unusual. Though rose is a featured note it doesn’t play heavily here, more a light accompaniment with the leather, saffron and incense. At about the 1.5-2 hour mark I start getting a lovely salty beach/sea water smell that I think may be The Aoud by Mancera’s ambergris. A fragrance of many colours, light and shade, an adventure in a bottle, subtle, alluring; I am running out of cliches to describe something far from cliched; even with the completely overwhelming amount of oudh on the market this is different and extremely wearable. No problem wearing anywhere except a strict no fragrance policy or close quarters work environment. The Aoud has good sillage but is not a skunker unless you are extremely lavish with your application, scent bubble around one meter maximum after the first hour.

Photo Stolen ferrebeekeeper

See how bright and new, sleek and lovely this trireme looks, The Aoud by Mancera has a kind of freshness about it that makes me think sea journey in a newly hewn ship with livestock in the hold for food and riding, naked, muscular slaves and the ever present smell of salt water on the cool breeze, but on the deck it would be warm and fragrant, and we of course would be in charge.

UniversalPerfumes&Cosmetics has 120ml/$130
Selfridges in the UK also has a selection in 60 & 120ml

Thanks for coming and spending a moment at APJ, see you tomorrow,
Portia xx