Sacrebleu by Parfums de Nicolaï 1993

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Post by Ainslie Walker

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Hi APJ,

An oldie but a goodie. A wild ride that is filled with exciting twists & turns. This bottle is an older one from Michael Edwards and I feel very lucky to have it because now you can only buy the intense version. The formula has changed since this bottle was made, I’m sure it has quite a lot really.

Sacrebleu by Patricia de Nicolai for Parfums de Nicolaï 1993

Sacrebleu Parfums de Nicolai FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Mandarin orange, fruits, red berries
Heart: Carnation, tuberose, jasmine, cinnamon
Base: Olibanum, woody notes, vanilla, patchouli, sandalwood, peru balsam, tonka bean

Sacrebleu !

So unusual to me immediately. It’s tart! Like a tart berry. Redcurrant? Unripe raspberry? Bitter rind of tangerine, perhaps bitter orange rind too. A hint at jasmine/tuberose/vanilla, which sometimes to me is an expected crowd pleasing base, often kind of meh. I can smell frankincense resin strongly?!?!? With the berry and mandarin it feels Christmassy to me. I keep thinking “how weird”. I am getting something sooo weird I cannot pinpoint at about 30 mins in, its green, carnation and patchouli, but also a rubbery mouthful of some fruity flavoured bubblegum?…am about to run to wash it off and then *boom* things balance out a little. Sandalwood/frankincense/bitter orange, rounded off with some white floral jasmine and shy tuberose and a touch of well chewed fruit gum.

Sacrebleu Parfums de Nicolai Gum Tree  Thomassin Mickael FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

The gum eventually starts to give way and tonka bean rears its head with some vanilla notes and starts to get pretty. It’s like dessert has finally been served! Within the frankincense resin, the soft vanilla notes seems to glow angelic. The angel is casually hanging out, chewing on a blackberry and vanilla marshmallow. Finally I get some gentle spices, cinnamon and clove/eugenol, which works so well with the remaining citrus.

Great scent life, and the dry down is very Shalimar like a vintage Shalimar dry down and I could still smell a gentle bit of it in the morning. Projection and sillage were pretty good for most of the fragrant life, more like a natural or a fragrance that has lots of naturals rather than a strong synthetic fragrance. Though not one that I’d normally go for, I really like it and had to keep going back to sniff myself to see what it was doing. Interesting, lovely. Casual and easy.

Sacrebleu Parfums de Nicolai Renoir Boating Party WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: Now Smell This and Perfume Posse
LuckyScent has Sacrebleu Intense from $65/30ml
Parfums Neroli in Budapest has Sacrebleu from 50/30ml
Surrender To Chance has Sacrebleu Intense samples starting at $4/ml

A floriental but slightly crazy frag. Shalimer lovers should definitely give it a go.

Have you tried Sacrebleu?
Ainslie Walker

Ombre Indigo by Mylène Arlan @ Robertet for Olfactive Studio 2014

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Post by Tina G

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Hi APJ,

I first laid eyes on Ombre Indigo in the lead up to Esxence in Milan, March 2014. I’d just written a few articles for APJ on Olfactive Studio scents, so nearly hit the floor when I spotted that they had a new one coming out! And the colour of that juice… oh my goodness… instant, unadulterated, WANT.

So, when I was gifted with a sample I was thrilled. And I couldn’t wait to try it. But when I did, I was hit with confusion. I didn’t love it. It was cloying and heavy and hurt my head. I didn’t really know what to do from there – I was supposed to be enthralled. Look at the colour of it, how could you not be? It is soooo pretty! What I didn’t realise at the time was that I was just at the beginning of one of the worst colds I’ve had in a decade, knocked me flat for about 2 weeks. The nose knows, it seems. I’ve come back to it under more friendly circumstances, and found the love.

Ombre Indigo by Mylène Arlan @ Robertet for Olfactive Studio 2014

Ombre Indigo Photographer: Gustavo Pellizzon

Ombre Indigo Olfactive Studio FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Plum, saffron, pettigrain, tuberose
Heart: Vetiver, papyrus, leather, olibanum
Base: Benzoin, musk, ambergris

The opening for me is strong incense and dry woods, the papyrus lifting and separating the incense from darker plum underlying it. Occasionally I will burn frankincense or myrrh on charcoal bricks so when I say “incense”, that’s what I’m finding here, a resin smoke. And the plums are heavy, in a sweet decay where they’ve just turned inedible by a matter of days. That smell you get when plums look OK from the top, but when you pick them up their skin is moist and splits as you touch it.

The image I get from this is walking through a neglected and overgrown orchard. The trees that fruited have dropped their baubles in the overgrown grass at their bases. Other trees have died, and their branches bare. Walking through the orchard there is a dappled autumnal light scattering through the trees, and my skin is at once cooled by the shadow and warmed by the sun.

Ombre Indigo Olfactive Studio 2014 GustavoPellizzonPhoto Stolen Olfactive Studio

After about 2 hours saffron joins the undertones, and a clean but fleshy tuberose comes into the middle of the notes. The fragrance then settles at around 4 hours into a musky floral, powdery amber combo, which I find quite delicious. Some of the listed notes I’ve not quite found, but my sample has now run dry so I need to decide on next steps…

I’ve read reviews on Ombre Indigo that quite happily assign this to being a summer scent, but here in Australia in the dead of winter (as much as we have one) the incense and wood is comforting. I wore the fragrance on a crisp bright sunshiny-day walk along St Kilda Beach whilst being pummelled by Antarctic winds straight out of Bass Strait. Ombre Indigo had ensconced itself thoroughly in my scarf, which allowed me nuzzle down, breathe deeply and keep a smile on my face against the howling wind.

Ombre Indigo Olfactive Studio  Winter Wind Miya Ku FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Further reading: Now Smell This and Chemist In A Bottle
Olfactive Studio has a World Page where you can order wherever you are.
First In Fragrance has €85/50ml and samples
Peony Melbourne has $145/50ml

Do you have a favourite incense fragrance? What time of year does it work best for you?

Tina G xx

Passion Boisee GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Hi there Juice junkies,

There is something deeply satisfying in having a giveaway that you all get excited about. Thank you everyone for being part of the fun. I am glad that we can work out 4 winners today. YIPPEE! THANKS to LibertineParfumerie, you guys rock my world.

Portia xx

Passion Boisee GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Passion Boisee Frapin FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Tangerine, nutmeg, rum, clove
Heart: Oakmoss, oak
Base: Patchouli, leather, cedar

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 Major Winner who will get:
1 x Passion Boisee 100ml bottle
(minus the Secondary Winners Prizes)
P&H Anywhere in the world

3 x Secondary Winners who will each receive:
1 x 10ml decant of Passion Boisee
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DID YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Go to Libertine Perfumes<<<JUMP and find me one of their Bath & Body Products and Manufacturer…………….. NO DOUBLE UPS!!

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Sunday 3rd August 2014 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by random.org

WINNERS dryiconsPhoto Stolen dryicons

Passion Boisee MAJOR WINNER

Katherine Mittas

Passion Boisee SECONDARY WINNERS

Tara (via Twitter)

Nemo

Yin

The winners will have till Thursday 7th August 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Special THANKS to LibertineParfumerie for these amazing giveaways. Please visit their site because they are so generous and helpful. If you wonder why they are sometimes more expensive than the discounters or OS retailers it’s because they are the only licensed company selling their fragrances in Australia; where you know you are buying new, fresh and genuine product. The cost of importing, and buying the right to import, alcohol based fragrances (and having the right to send alcohol based fragrances throughout Australia, which are illegal to send in the Australia Post air system) is expensive and they must cover their costs to bring you these luxury goods.

Jaunty Capers, Cemeteries and The Rose That Got Away: London July 2014

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Post by Val the Cookie Queen

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Hi APJ,

I couldn´t have been more excited as I got up on Wednesday. Finally the dreamed of, talked about, preplanned days were here.

Unlike Vanessa from the fabulous Bonkers About Perfume, I have no clothing crises. For I have none. Not to speak of anyway. Long jeans in winter. Cut-off jeans in summer. I prefer to spend my money on red lipstick, and the odd bag of groceries for the family. When my shoes hurt I go barefoot.

Jaunty Capers, Cemeteries and The Rose That Got Away

Random ramblings from a week in London

I left for Les Senteurs from Muswell Hill, the infamous address, early enough to not be late for my date with the gorgeous Tara from Olfactoria`s Travels. We both arrived early and waited for Callum the Dashing to arrive and let us in. Perfumistas waiting on the doorstep.

Les senteurs Val 2014 #2

Les senteurs Val 2014 #3

Les senteurs Val 2014 #4

Les senteurs Val 2014 #1

 

 

We hit the sofa talking. After a while Flamingo Nick, Penhaligon´s Fragrant Ambassador arrived, bringing a burst of sunshine into the room with him.I already knew I was going to buy Malle`s Eau de Magnolia and asked Callum to put a large bottle on the side. The small ones were sold out and there was no tester to triple reconfirm that I wanted it. I would pick it up the next day when Vanessa was with us too. So onto the much praised Papillons. I was so excited to try these and planned to purchase one. I sprayed with gay abandon and waited …….

Flowers Val 2014 #1

Gorilla Val 2014 #1

Nick, Tara and I headed to the Gorilla Perfume Gallery for the presentation of the new 12 fragrances. Entitled: Death, Decay and Renewal. A pop-up in the basement of Phonica Records on Poland Street. (See Nick Gilbert<< JuMP) This was quite the display. Mushrooms, sandalwood smuggling, stroboscopic dream machines designed by William Burroughs ……… Clearly NOT Guerlain.

Starting to fall in love with Papillon’s Tobacco Rose, we headed on for tea and sandwiches and a quick Liberty´s heist. Nick scored himself a bottle of Superoud from Comme de Garçons and headed off into the sunset. Fear not, we would meet again.

Selfridge´s and iced matcha, including a wicked brain freeze, saw Tara and I heading home.

That evening after spraying again I decided I would buy the Tobacco Rose. Because it is beguiling.

Tara and Vanessa pretty much covered this second day of fragrant flitterings. (Bonkers About Perfume and Olfactoria´s Travels) What can I add? The Guerlain Royal Extract at 280 quid for 125 mls – 900 bottles limited edition, exclusive to Harrod`s? A pretty pale, kind of watered down Fairy Liquid colour? I think not. Based on the exquisite Attrape Coeur, but missed the mark. (All opinions totally my own!)

Now I was not exactly kicking and screaming when I went up to Roja Dove´s Barbie Palace, but it was close. Bright and shiny and no room to swing a cat. The visit was saved by Benjamin, the on hand sales assistant. He was so nice, totally knowledgable, and actually seemed to think he could turn around my preconceived ideas of RD and the other fragrances for the “Bros”. He could not. It would be remiss of me not to say that I did allow him to give me a pretty decent spray of the “semi-bespoke” (can you hear me laughing????) RD Private Collection No 9. Limited to 50 bottles. It was actually pretty nice for the first 20 minutes. Unlike Benjamin who was nice for the whole time.

Tara and I went to the Amouage stand alone store, hoping to try the Amouage Attars. Sadly because of people buying them, diluting them with alcohol and then selling them on EBay by the millilitre they have been removed. How annoying is that? Very.

“I`d ski naked down Mount Everest” to meet Vanessa, but luckily we only had to go to Covent Garden Tube station. Long lunch, including a number of jaunty capers, and a good chinwag and off to Penhaligon´s to meet up, once again with our very favourite Fragrant Ambassador. I was wonderfully surprised by the sensual beauty of Tralala and can see myself having a bottle one day. The Chucky Child´s Play bottle decoration was a little haunting, but I think I could get over it. Nick sent me off with a good stash of Penhaligon´s samples and I look forward to getting to know them.

Off we went to Les Senteurs. My heart beating a little faster as I prepared to make my purchases. We flopped once again on the sofa, kicked off shoes, fixed blisters and I bought Eau de Magnolia. Straight out of the fridge. I then asked for my Tobacco Rose. SOLD OUT.

Les senteurs Val 2014 #5

Les senteurs Val 2014 #6

WHAT??? You have got to be bloody kidding me Callum. But it´s intoxicating, boozy, and kind of jammy. There are two different roses, Bulgarian and Rose Centifolia. Oakmoss lurks, a great favourite of mine. It is smoky and beeswaxy. Thick without being sweet. It lasts for hours and never stays the same. I don´t have a rose. And I want this. For the moment though it´s the rose that got away. I should have ordered it the day before but I was trying to be sensible. Sigh. I compensate by spraying a ton of Magnolia and pass out with the beauty. I´ll live.

We spent the next three hours, or was it more, having tea and eating Indian food. Talking and sharing more about ourselves. Building friendships.

And so it ended. All leaving from the same station, Tara to the left and Vanessa and me to the right. The trains came in so fast we had no time to say goodbye. But it´s only Adieu.

Cemetery Val 2014 #2

Cemetery Val 2014 #3

Cemetery Val 2014 #4

Cemetery Val 2014 #5

The following day I went to Highgate Cemetery. This trip was on my Bucket List. The place absolutely blew my mind. The guide was straight out of an Agatha Christie and the lady that was constantly by me in the group was wearing Mitsouko. It was an extremely heavy and lovely version, so I am guessing it might have been an earlier incarnation, because it sure doesn´t smell like that now. What a perfect ending to my aromatic and perfumed adventures.

Cemetery Val 2014 #6

Cemetery Val 2014 #1

Cemetery Val 2014 #7

But it wasn´t quite the end was it? Antonio Gardoni from Bogue Perfumes met up and shared a coconut water with me, including copious sprays of MAAI. Comrades! – MAAI is not for the faint-hearted. More later ……..

I am now back to making cookie dough.

Bussis

CQ xxx

All photos donated by Val the Cookie Queen

Oliver & Co Limited Edition Sample Set 2014

Hey there APJ,

If you love niche fragrance and enjoy the good stuff then this is for you. I love this crew.

Oliver & Co Limited Edition Sample Set 2014

DISCOVERY SET – 1# ONLINE EDITION OF 20

THE SET INCLUDE 7x10ml GLASS SPRAY VIALS OF:

10ML - ONLINE EXCLUSIVE

ILLUSTRATED SERIES

M.O.U.S.S.E
LA COLONIA
VETIVERUS
RESINA
M.O.U.S.S.E II

NEBULAE SERIES

NEBULA 1
NEBULA 2

AVAILABLE FOR A LIMITED TIME ONLY – FROM 1st TO 6th AUGUST.
LIMIT ONE PER PERSON. ONLINE EXCLUSIVE.

THIS ITEM CAN’T BE PURCHASED ON PHYSICAL STORES.

67,00 €

Oliver & Co Site<<JUMP

Further reading: Resina by Oliver & Co

Drew Carey, Richard Simmons: Living Scenery

Hi there APJ,

Today’s post is one of the most wonderful things I have ever seen in my life. Sometimes a little video can make your day seem lighter and brighter. If you haven’t seen it before then I promise you a rare treat. For those that have seen it, watch it again. It only gets better every time you see it. Drew Carey, Richard Simmons: Living Scenery from Whose Line Is It Anyway.

Today I am taking a perfume break. Hanging out with Jin, fixing my BFFs parents electrical problems and riding the motor bikes. Then I’m off to work tonight where I will probably be wearing Vintage Boucheron Femme. Loads of it. YUMMO!

DREW CAREYPhoto Stolen ScreenInsults

No matter how shit your day, I think Drew Carey, Richard Simmons: Living Scenery may just turn you around

Be well.
Portia x

 

whose line is it anyway-richard simmons special!!

Passion Boisee by Jeanne-Marie Faugier for P Frapin & Co 2007

Hello Fragrant Family,

My mate Nick from Libertine Parfumerie sometimes gives APJ product for giveaways. A package from Nick is ALWAYS a sweet surprise and he is a lovely guy who wants to have a great range of fragrance for Aussies to choose from. Please, even if you don’t enter today’s competition, go and have a look at the amazing fragrant beauties that Libertine Parfumerie has for sale, you will be astounded. Lately Nick’s buying power has become so good that some (not all) of his products are the same numerical value as you would buy them for in the USA, that means with the current Aussie dollar that they are in fact 10-15% cheaper!!! AMAZING!

Passion Boisee by Jeanne-Marie Faugier for P Frapin & Co 2007

Passion Boisee Frapin FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Tangerine, nutmeg, rum, clove
Heart: Oakmoss, oak
Base: Patchouli, leather, cedar

Before anything else I want you to know how much I love the Frapin bottles. Heavy, great shape, excellent atomiser that gives a super blast. The whole packaging has been beautifully thought out and will look great as a gift or as the single bottle of scent on most mens counters. Not that women wouldn’t wear Passion Boisee, or any Frapin, but I can definitely see the men falling in love with the whole aesthetic.

So my nose gets a lovely gust of citrus, booze and a cool note that reads to me like pipe tobacco for a short while which then softens off considerably within 20 minutes and becomes a very light, forest floor over skin scent. Passion Boisee becomes a barely there shimmer of depth, an extra hint of the wild. Subtle to the point of subconscious. I pretty much lose the ability to smell Passion Boisee after an hour on myself but when sprayed on Jin it is a completely different beast and every time I come close to him its presence is noticeable and damn sexy. Powerful and sexy undertones, like pheromones.

I don’t get much play through the notes after the initial fireworks. I get cool forest, jungle floor, masculine, slightly animal and a feeling of power. I imagine this smell is how a jungle tiger feels. There, not there, camouflaged yet deadly and powerful. I think Passion Boisee would make an excellent work or date scent, a very under the radar reminder that the wearer is dangerous and focused and hungry.

If you like to proclaim your fragrance wearing in no uncertain terms then I think Passion Boisee will be too soft, too quietly confident.

Further reading: Fragrant Moments and Smelly Thoughts
Peony Melbourne currently has $95/100ml (That’s over 50% discount!!)
First In Fragrance has €105/100ml
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/ml

giveaway TheTruthAboutMummyPhoto Stolen TheTruthAboutMummy

Passion Boisee GIVEAWAY

WHAT CAN YOU WIN?

This week we will have 1 Major Winner who will get:
1 x Passion Boisee 100ml bottle
(minus the Secondary Winners Prizes)
P&H Anywhere in the world

3 x Secondary Winners who will each receive:
1 x 10ml decant of Passion Boisee
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DO YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Go to Libertine Perfumes<<<JUMP and find me one of their Bath & Body Products and Manufacturer…………….. NO DOUBLE UPS!!

Extra Chance?
Tweet:  Passion Boisee: P Frapin & Co GIVEAWAY    

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Close Sunday 3rd August 2014 10pm Australian EST and winners will be announced in a separate post.
Winners will be chosen by random.org
The winners will have till Thursday 7th August 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.

Special THANKS to LibertineParfumerie for these amazing giveaways. Please visit their site because they are so generous and helpful. If you wonder why they are sometimes more expensive than the discounters or OS retailers it’s because they are the only licensed company selling their fragrances in Australia; where you know you are buying new, fresh and genuine product. The cost of importing, and buying the right to import, alcohol based fragrances (and having the right to send alcohol based fragrances throughout Australia, which are illegal to send in the Australia Post air system) is expensive and they must cover their costs to bring you these luxury goods.

 

Hypnotic Poison EdT by DIOR GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Hi Scent Hounds,

Excellent response this week, and what a wonderful giveaway. Azar always finds the good stuff, it gets me excited too.

Portia xx

Hypnotic Poison EdT by DIOR GIVEAWAY WINNERS

Hypnotic Poison by Annick Menardo: 1998 version

Hypnotic Poison Dior FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Apricot, plum, coconut
Heart: Tuberose, jasmine, lily-of-the-valley, rose, brazilian rosewood, caraway
Base: Sandalwood, almond, vanilla, musk

WHAT COULD YOU WIN?

This week we will have 2 winners who will each get:
1 x 2 ml spray decant of the 1998 version of Hypnotic Poison EdT
1 x 2ml spray decant of the historic Italian referred to at the beginning of this post
P&H Anywhere in the world

HOW DID YOU WIN?

Open to everyone worldwide who follows AustralianPerfumeJunkies via eMail, WordPress, Bloglovin or RSS. Please leave how you follow in the comments to be eligible. I must be able to check that you follow so if you have an email address on your gravatar that’s different to your follow address then please email me so I know. Yes, you can start following to enter, in fact it’s encouraged.

You must tell me how you follow APJ

and

Please leave a comment about your favorite re-discovered oldie and/or your take on any version of Poison or Hypnotic Poison.

Extra Chance?
Tweet: Hypnotic Poison EdT: DIOR 1998 #GIVEAWAY http://wp.me/p3PURw-313 #Perfume

HOUSEKEEPING

Entries Closed Thursday 31st July 2014 10pm Australian EST
Winners were chosen by Azar putting all names on paper and pulling two from a hat. Hey Presto!!

winners propercoursePhoto Stolen propercourse

NennaO

Elia

CONGRATULATIONS! Many thanks to everyone for their oldies and for their memories of Poison!
Azar xx

The winners will have till Sunday 1st August 2014 to get in touch (portia underscore turbo at yahoo dot com dot au) with their address or the prize will go to someone else.
No responsibility taken for lost or damaged goods in transit.